View Full Version : [Help Needed] Can I bridge my SDA-1C speakers?
Hi guys, I've got an Onkyo TX-NR5007 receiver with a pair of SDA-1C speakers. The receiver specs are here:
http://www.us.onkyo.com/model.cfm?m=TX-NR5007&class=Receiver&p=f
The receiver supports bridging the front LR channels and also bi-amping. On the back of the speakers it says to never bridge them. Why is that? Can I do it if I don't use the interconnect cable? If not, can they be safely bi-amped?
Please let me know! Thanks :biggrin:
F1nut
06-02-2011, 03:15 AM
You cannot use a bridged amp(s) with your SDA's unless you use the AI-1 isolation transformer and you can only use the AI-1 with certain 1C's.
Yes you can, but why bother? You'll basically lose half of the speaker.
You cannot bi-amp 1C's as they only have one set of binding posts. Besides, passive bi-amping is a complete waste.
Joe08867
06-02-2011, 09:24 AM
You can't bridge SDA's because they need to cross talk with one another. It is not a good idea to use any bridged amp with them as it will cause a short between the 2 amps and the speakers.
Disconnecting the interconnect will cause an enormous loss of sound from the speakers. You will loose the use of one driver and one tweeter from each speaker. Literally cutting the sound in half.
That receiver should do a good job the way it is without trying to bridge it or bi-amp the SDA's. If you want more sound from them I suggest an external amp that has the power you are looking for.
Toolfan66
06-02-2011, 09:34 AM
I vote ditching the receiver and getting seperates (pre amp and amplifier with good current)!!! Just my opinion!! Your ears and speakers will thank you!!
If your going to run them with out the cable then sell them IMO!!
Good luck with your set up and have fun!!!
You cannot use a bridged amp(s) with your SDA's unless you use the AI-1 isolation transformer and you can only use the AI-1 with certain 1C's.
What is this AI-1 isolation transformer you speak of, how can I tell if my 1Cs would work with it, and where would I be able to get one?
You guys don't need to tell me a separate amp/preamp would be fantastic, I am well aware of that, but I have literally no space for a single extra component. I had to ditch my Rotel CD player and have my Blu-ray player play double duty just to put in a DVR. I am also STRAPPED.
If there is anything I can do to run them in bridge mode, I'll do it! :cool:
PS: Didn't know not using the interconnect disables some of the drivers. All right that idea is out.
heiney9
06-02-2011, 10:43 AM
What is this AI-1 isolation transformer you speak of, how can I tell if my 1Cs would work with it, and where would I be able to get one?.
See link
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74472&highlight=dread%2A
You would have to build one as the original sold by Polk are rare used finds these days. Polk no longer manufacture's them.
The place to start is with your SDA 1C serial numbers to find out if you can even use the AI-1 cable.
The cost to build an AI-1 is around $200-300 give or take depending on the level of finish you want. Having the parts mounted to a piece of ply-wood is about $200. I a nice case with nicer cables, etc will be closer to $300.
If there is anything I can do to run them in bridge mode, I'll do it! :cool:.
The isolation transformer is the only way if your 1C's are later production units that can use the AI-1. IMO, the cost vs. the benefit based on your gear isn't worth it. Spending $200-300 just so you can bridge a medioce receiver is a waste of money
PS: Didn't know not using the interconnect disables some of the drivers. All right that idea is out.
Good call, just leave things as they are.
H9
Schurkey
06-02-2011, 04:26 PM
Disconnecting the interconnect will cause an enormous loss of sound from the speakers. You will loose the use of one driver and one tweeter from each speaker. Literally cutting the sound in half.
Might have been true for older SDAs, but NOT for 1B or 1C, or several other of the newer-generation SDAs.
Yanking the interconnect cable on my 1B results in a drastic change in the soundstage, but not so much change in the frequency response or "voicing". I expect the 1C to be similar--soundstage collapses to "ordinary" stereo, but the timbre remains similar with/without the interconnect cable.
Try it and see! It's not like you're going to hurt anything by disconnecting the cable.
The cost to build an AI-1 is around $200-300 give or take depending on the level of finish you want. Having the parts mounted to a piece of ply-wood is about $200. I a nice case with nicer cables, etc will be closer to $300.
If he builds an AI-1 to the same specs as the OEM Polk unit, it would be about fifty bucks, maybe less. The raw transformer would be something like $20--$25 shipped, plus some cables and terminations.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55888 Post #6.
Additional info:
SPC Technology 81N5406 data sheet shows 1.3mA secondary output. http://www.spctechnology.com/prodinfo/specs/81n5406.PDF
It is no longer available. Crosses over to become Newark Part Number: 10M5581. Newark calls it an "exact substitute" but I can't find specs on secondary current.
Stancor 01F043 crosses over to Newark p/n 16M3806; Secondary Current Nominal:0.13A
Magnetek Triad 03F1017 crosses ("exact replacement") Newark Part Number: 78K8609; again Secondary Current Nominal:0.13A
The OEM Polk unit is good for .13 amps; and that is NOT enough...but it was good enough for Polk at that time. Any suitable isolation transformer than can handle more than .13 amps is almost certainly better than the OEM unit. Using the "Dreadnaught" style, at something like 6 or 7 amps is quite superior...but not absolutely required.
The isolation transformer is the only way if your 1C's are later production units that can use the AI-1. IMO, the cost vs. the benefit based on your gear isn't worth it. Spending $200-300 just so you can bridge a medioce receiver is a waste of money
Agreed.
heiney9
06-02-2011, 04:37 PM
I didn't give him the $50 option, because to my way of thinking that's sort of half/assing it. But then again so is bridging an average receiver. I know we are all at different levels and have different budget's and other varying factors.
I still wouldn't recommend removing the inter-connect cable on SDA's. The nature and uniqueness of the speaker is lost and in this case it would be for a few more watts and not necessarily better sounding watts. Can it be done without damage? Yes. Is it beneficial? No.
All, IMO of course.
H9
Brand new, never used AI-1 interface unit available. PM for info.
The serial number for my 1Cs are 12003. Will that work with the AI-1?
Also I just thought of something else. These speakers will not work without a common ground. Typically, bridging two separate amps removes any common ground that may have previously existed. Is that the reason it says to never bridge them?
Because if I do it on a receiver, won't the fact that it's all one chassis mean that even bridged, there will still be a common ground??
treitz3
06-02-2011, 07:03 PM
Why would you want to bridge a receiver anyway? If more watts is what you want, you'll get it but with the loss of SDA and the bass will get sloppy. I see no benefit whatsoever to do what it is you are trying to do. None.
I still wouldn't recommend removing the inter-connect cable on SDA's. The nature and uniqueness of the speaker is lost and in this case it would be for a few more watts and not necessarily better sounding watts. Can it be done without damage? Yes. Is it beneficial? No.
Slam dunk.
Because if I do it on a receiver, won't the fact that it's all one chassis mean that even bridged, there will still be a common ground??
No because in bridged mode the negative half of the signal will be taken from one of the bridged channels positive or "hot" terminal and therefore is not tied to ground.In other words only the positive terminals of the 4 amp sections are used when operating in bridged mode.
All right... thought that wouldn't work but it was worth a shot. Well, I am going to have these speakers for the foreseeable future. The receiver was very expensive, got it for $1500 used with a 5 year warranty, it retailed for over $2000. I have very little money to spend. So new speakers or a new amp are out of the question.
Based on my serial number how can I tell if the AI-1 will work for me? Serial is 12003.
EDIT:
Wait a second. I saw a picture of the original AI-1 cable, it is just the same interconnect except with a box in the middle. If I disconnect the cable, can I bridge the speakers? I know I'll lose the SDA effect but I will be able to gauge the difference in sound using bridged vs non-bridged and be able to decide if I even need the AI-1.
heiney9
06-02-2011, 07:31 PM
All right... thought that wouldn't work but it was worth a shot. Well, I am going to have these speakers for the foreseeable future. The receiver was very expensive, got it for $1500 used with a 5 year warranty, it retailed for over $2000. I have very little money to spend. So new speakers or a new amp are out of the question.
Based on my serial number how can I tell if the AI-1 will work for me? Serial is 12003.
EDIT:
Wait a second. I saw a picture of the original AI-1 cable, it is just the same interconnect except with a box in the middle. If I disconnect the cable, can I bridge the speakers? I know I'll lose the SDA effect but I will be able to gauge the difference in sound using bridged vs non-bridged and be able to decide if I even need the AI-1.
Your SDA's have the same serial # for both right and left? That's really not possible. They could be consecutive numbers (rare) but not the same. Since SDA's are sold as indivudual units they have the left speaker has it's own serial # as well as the right speaker.
The AI-1 cable you see has a transformer in-line to cope with the non-common ground issue.
The part I bolded in the quote above, I have no idea what you mean. If you can get a factory AI-1 from a member here for a decent price and you are dead set on trying to bridge a receiver that would be the best way. I still don't recommend it, because the payoff will be negligible, but we're always telling people to try things for themselves, so have at it if you must.
Give me a few minutes to locate my SDA bible and look up the one serial number you gave me. Please give me the other one. Is your current cable blade/blade on each end or pin/blade on each end?
What is the impedance of the 1C's?Since when bridging the load as seen by the amp is half that of the nominal impedance therefore that reciever may have thermal issues trying to deliver high power into those speakers in bridged mode.
SDA1C
06-02-2011, 07:49 PM
I have owned 1c's for quite a while now and trust me...you don't want to do anything that requires you disconnect the interconnect cable. From my past exp they handle less power efficiently and if you do the close your eyes test it'll almost make you vomit on how much SQ goes out the window. I find that a strong 15" or larger sub does wonders. The 1c to me is a bit shy on the bottom end (but rock ass from about 200 htz upwords). So cut the bass down on the receiver. Turn on a 15" sub and you'll get mass SP increase. Just my .02 bro but believe me its a few years trial and error to get that .02 lol.
Take care,
1c
mine are 4.0 ohm nominal. 3.5 from pos to IC and 2.3 from neg to IC I only checked the left side though.
heiney9
06-02-2011, 07:54 PM
What is the impedance of the 1C's?Since when bridging the load as seen by the amp is half that of the nominal impedance therefore that reciever may have thermal issues trying to deliver high power into those speakers in bridged mode.
Fred if they are 1C's they are 6 ohm nominal. I was corresponding with Nelson Pass before I bought my Aleph 30 about the common ground issue and I sent him a couple schematics and his comment was "looks like they could put quite a strain on the negative side of an amplifier" Of course the Aleph is common ground as you know.
My point being, that sometimes it's not only the nominal impedance tha can give amps some fits, but because of the way the speakers are "cross-wired", for lack of a better term, some amps may have difficulty aside from impedance.
That's my guess as to his comment and why some amps get hot or have difficulty running SDA's even though the impedance is fairly benign.
H9
heiney9
06-02-2011, 07:56 PM
I have owned 1c's for quite a while now and trust me...you don't want to do anything that requires you disconnect the interconnect cable. From my past exp they handle less power efficiently and if you do the close your eyes test it'll almost make you vomit on how much SQ goes out the window. I find that a strong 15" or larger sub does wonders. The 1c to me is a bit shy on the bottom end (but rock ass from about 200 htz upwords). So cut the bass down on the receiver. Turn on a 15" sub and you'll get mass SP increase. Just my .02 bro but believe me its a few years trial and error to get that .02 lol.
Take care,
1c
mine are 4.0 ohm nominal. 3.5 from pos to IC and 2.3 from neg to IC I only checked the left side though.
I agree no one should run without the cable, I strongly disagree the 1C's lack bottom end. It's all about the gear you run and placement. I can rattle rafters with my 1C's when the musical content is there.
Also how are you measuring impedance? You can't just hook up a DVM to the terminals. Impedance varies greatly with frequency.
H9
Your SDA's have the same serial # for both right and left? That's really not possible. They could be consecutive numbers (rare) but not the same. Since SDA's are sold as indivudual units they have the left speaker has it's own serial # as well as the right speaker.
The AI-1 cable you see has a transformer in-line to cope with the non-common ground issue.
The part I bolded in the quote above, I have no idea what you mean. If you can get a factory AI-1 from a member here for a decent price and you are dead set on trying to bridge a receiver that would be the best way. I still don't recommend it, because the payoff will be negligible, but we're always telling people to try things for themselves, so have at it if you must.
Give me a few minutes to locate my SDA bible and look up the one serial number you gave me. Please give me the other one. Is your current cable blade/blade on each end or pin/blade on each end?
My speakers are both pin/blade. Left speaker is 12003 and right is 11968. My receiver is set to 4ohm mode which is just a current limiter and I have the volume capped at -5dB. If I bridge them, I will still leave it in current limited mode.
SDA1C
06-02-2011, 08:05 PM
Fair enough. I wasn't to say I dislike the bottom end just to say that with a receiver vs. pre/amp it seems to me the lower SQ isnt quite as good. My ohm readings were static. I understand it varies with frequency but as a general rule... Curious thing though as we're on the same general topic. When I first purchased mine they were 6.1 nominal. Actually I was a bit surprised a moment ago to read 4.0. Is this any point of concern? Not to derail just thought I'd throw it out as a bit more info for myself and the the op.
Whad u think of them m4's eh?...lol
1C
heiney9
06-02-2011, 08:11 PM
Fair enough. I wasnt to say I dislike the bottom end just to say that with a receiver vs. pre/amp it seems to me thre lower SQ isnt quite as good. My ohm reading were static. I understand it varies with frequency but as a general rule... curious thing though as were on the same point. when i first purchased mine they were 6.1 nominal. Actually I was a bit surprised a moment ago to read 4.0. Is this any point of concern? Not to derail just thought I'd throw it out as a bit more info for the op.
Whad u think of the m4's eh?...lol
1C
I agree separates will almost always give you a better presentation than a receiver, but there are some high end receivers that do a good job, too.
I can't say for sure as I've never taken those kind of measurements. Perhaps your x-overs are starting to show their age. Those electrolytic's weren't the best to begin with. That's why so many, including myself, have recapped the x-overs with modern film caps with stunning results.
I have a pair of modded M5's in my office/computer rig that sound absolutely fantastic............listening to them right now in fact. Monitor 4's are nice but a little small. They made a couple different versions over the years. They would be nice for surrounds too.
H9
... if they are 1C's they are 6 ohm nominal.Thanks, so effectively each of the 4 amp sections will see 3 ohms.
The potential thermal issue is applicable to non SDA's as well.The lowered impedance (as seen by each section)means increased current demand (thus more current through the output devices) added to the >3 fold increase in output potential equates to alot of extra heat to be disipated.
SDA1C
06-02-2011, 08:21 PM
Guess its time to consider the local ring/xover upgrade that is so highly spoke of here. Another point of interest might be the sub as its tuned to 20-24 htz. it'll make a set 301's sound like they have a pair lol (and thats saying something hehe). Sort of unfair to compare a radiator to a powered 15" in a 6cf enclosure.
My reference to the m4 was the link in the other thread. (about the Shengya) check em out. It's rather comical.
I still would hang the idea of eliminating the IC on the 1c. If for no other reason...it'll sound like s@#t. Others have certainly a more technical reason lol.
1C
treitz3
06-02-2011, 08:23 PM
The technical reason is real simple. You lose the SDA.
heiney9
06-02-2011, 08:27 PM
My speakers are both pin/blade. Left speaker is 12003 and right is 11968
I can't find my SDA bible known as the Compendium which has the info in it. I just moved and still don't have everything unpacked and in it's place. I'll keep looking but others have the same info, hopefully they will chime in.
H9
I can't find my SDA bible known as the Compendium which has the info in it. I just moved and still don't have everything unpacked and in it's place. I'll keep looking but others have the same info, hopefully they will chime in.
H9
Thanks... please let me know if you find it! Seems like something like that should be uploaded to this site! :biggrin:
heiney9
06-02-2011, 08:42 PM
Thanks... please let me know if you find it! Seems like something like that should be uploaded to this site! :biggrin:
It was an endeavor put together by our SDA guru Darqueknight. It's about a 90 page color/black and white publication about SDA's. A history, photo's, step by step upgrades, tweeter analysis, production runs with part numbers, etc. They are long sold out.
I'll find it here somewhere. It has a list of 1C and 2B serial numbers that can use the AI-1 cable.
H9
SDA1C
06-02-2011, 08:44 PM
The technical reason is real simple. You lose the SDA.
Since were being "technical" you done loose the array or the stereo you loose the dimension. just sayin lol
SDA1C
06-02-2011, 08:49 PM
It was an endeavor put together by our SDA guru Darqueknight. It's about a 90 page color/black and white publication about SDA's. A history, photo's, step by step upgrades, tweeter analysis, production runs with part numbers, etc. They are long sold out.
I'll find it here somewhere. It has a list of 1C and 2B serial numbers that can use the AI-1 cable.
H9
No chance of DK rerunning a printing session of said compendium is there? Guess I should be asking the source as it were.
heiney9
06-02-2011, 08:52 PM
Nope, that question has been asked and answered atleast a dozen times.
H9
Can't someone that has a copy just scan the pages and upload it?
SDA1C
06-02-2011, 09:11 PM
sort figured it was a moot point but had to ask. I honestly wouldn't have a valid use for one other that to say I had one. I've caught a glimpse of the innards and it way over my head. At any rate. sounds like heiney got the op straightened out a bit. Or as Dad used to say UTRFTS or UTTAIS. lol
F1nut
06-02-2011, 09:46 PM
My receiver is set to 4ohm mode which is just a current limiter and I have the volume capped at -5dB. If I bridge them, I will still leave it in current limited mode.
You are starving your speakers. Current is what they love, so put your AVR back to 8 ohms and just forget all about bridging.
F1nut
06-02-2011, 09:49 PM
Can't someone that has a copy just scan the pages and upload it?
No, it is a copyrighted publication.
When I first purchased mine they were 6.1 nominal. Actually I was a bit surprised a moment ago to read 4.0. Is this any point of concern? What you would have been measuring is the DC resitance of the woofer(s) and any inductors (and wiring) in series with them. The DCR is usually an ohm or more less than the stated nominal impedance which adds the effects of reactive components(capacitance and inductance) to the resistance.
Assuming that I can't get the AI-1 cable, are there instructions anywhere to make my own adapter?
Looking at this picture:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s23/darqueknight88/DN-inside-side-r.jpg
Can anybody link me to a suitable transformer, and also regarding those eight wires coming off the transformer, where do those get connected? I don't have much knowledge about this sort of thing. How large a transformer do I really need to make it work?
Brand new, never used AI-1 interface unit available. PM for info.
The AI-1 has "left the building", thanks 003! If the sales rating system ever gets fixed I'll write you a + :wink:
Schurkey
06-03-2011, 12:35 AM
Assuming that I can't get the AI-1 cable, are there instructions anywhere to make my own adapter?
Ummmm...yes. I gave you the link in an earlier post.
If he builds an AI-1 to the same specs as the OEM Polk unit, it would be about fifty bucks, maybe less. The raw transformer would be something like $20--$25 shipped, plus some cables and terminations.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55888 Post #6.
Additional info:
The OEM Polk unit is good for .13 amps; and that is NOT enough...but it was good enough for Polk at that time. Any suitable isolation transformer than can handle more than .13 amps is almost certainly better than the OEM unit. Using the "Dreadnaught" style, at something like 6 or 7 amps is quite superior...but not absolutely required.
Looking at this picture:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s23/darqueknight88/DN-inside-side-r.jpg
Can anybody link me to a suitable transformer, and also regarding those eight wires coming off the transformer, where do those get connected? I don't have much knowledge about this sort of thing. How large a transformer do I really need to make it work?
I'd say an isolation transformer of the OEM size as a MINIMUM; but better would be to go with the Dreadnaught-style pioneered by Darqueknight.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74472
Lots of reading there.
PS: If you're using current-limiting, you're very likely making a mess of the sound quality.
I have acquired a BRAND NEW AI-1 cable, and it's terminations are both pin/blade. I hope it works! If not they do seem to have a decent demand.
Anyway, I don't know the technical operations behind audio, so exactly what benefit does a transformer rated for higher amps provide? Surely the polk implementation must work, or they wouldn't have offered it. Will it somehow not sound as good as a larger transformer, or I won't be able to turn it up as loud?
F1nut
06-03-2011, 12:54 AM
You are starving your speakers. Current is what they love, so put your AVR back to 8 ohms and just forget all about bridging.
PS: If you're using current-limiting, you're very likely making a mess of the sound quality.
He's doesn't seem to be getting that point.
Schurkey
06-03-2011, 01:03 AM
what benefit does a transformer rated for higher amps provide?
The electrical signal that "powers" the SDA system is dependent on two things: the volume level you're listening to, and the difference in signal between the left channel and the right channel. In other words, the music (or speech...or noise) you're listening to, and the volume level you've chosen for playback.
The most difficult possible load for that transformer, I suppose, is to have one channel of LOUD music, while at that instant there's silence in the other channel. There'd be maximum difference between the channels, and a lot of voltage driving a lot of current.
The Polk AI-1 transformer has a capacity of .13 amps. But that's WAY less than the plain ol' interconnect is capable of transmitting. If you look at the Dreadnaught link posted above, Matthew Polk Hisself has proclaimed that "ideally" the transformer should be capable of transmitting 5+ amps.
You now understand the situation. The transformer "should" have a 5+ amp capacity, but due to the enormous expense and shipping weight, the AI-1 in production form was reduced to a shadow of what it should have been.
Surely the polk implementation must work, or they wouldn't have offered it. Will it somehow not sound as good as a larger transformer, or I won't be able to turn it up as loud?
You're right. It "works". But the tiny transformer will saturate at a low volume level; and of course the whole shebang was compromised in terms of parts quality. You will be able to use it with your bridged receiver; nobody is making any guarantees that the result will have the sound quality you're hoping for.
As for whether "your" 1Cs are AI-1 compatible, I'd be looking to see that there's essentially zero ohms between the blade socket (not the pin socket) and the negative terminal of the speaker. If you've got a very-low-resistance connection there, your speakers should be AI-1 compatible. If the blade socket has more than about one ohm resistance to the negative terminal, bets are off. It really ought to be a dead short.
He's doesn't seem to be getting that point.
No, I didn't miss that point, I will turn off the current limiter :biggrin: I only had it on because I heard that these speakers can be hard on amps, but I will still leave the volume capped at -5dB and I do have a 5 year warranty, so we'll see how it works out.
As for whether "your" 1Cs are AI-1 compatible, I'd be looking to see that there's essentially zero ohms between the blade socket (not the pin socket) and the negative terminal of the speaker. If you've got a very-low-resistance connection there, your speakers should be AI-1 compatible. If the blade socket has more than about one ohm resistance to the negative terminal, bets are off. It really ought to be a dead short.
Thank you! I measured with my DMM and the negative terminal and blade socket measures ZERO ohms for me! To make sure it wasn't broken I also tested with the pin socket and it instantly showed up as 14 ohms, so hopefully I am good to go! I am aware the AI-1 may not be the greatest, but I will test it for myself. I'd rather not have another box that I don't have room for. I need to work with what I've got ... which unfortunately isn't the greatest, but could be worse.... hopefully. My receiver was the best Onkyo made at the time I got it and is actually specifically advertised as high current.
The AI-1 has "left the building", thanks 003! If the sales rating system ever gets fixed I'll write you a + :wink:
I look forward to it, thanks!
EDIT:
By the way... quick question about speaker placement. All guides I see for home theater setup say that the front speakers should be angled in slightly at around 30 degrees, facing the focal point of the home theater. Is that true for the SDA-1s, or is that not good due to the SDA effect?
If you're getting cold feet about the AI-1 purchase just let me know. I don't want you to regret buying it.:wink:
If you're getting cold feet about the AI-1 purchase just let me know. I don't want you to regret buying it.:wink:
No, now that I know it should work, and will require no assembly on my part, and should fit in the small space I have available, I think I'll be OK. Thanks! :biggrin:
headrott
06-03-2011, 04:04 AM
reported.
F1nut
06-03-2011, 04:21 AM
By the way... quick question about speaker placement. All guides I see for home theater setup say that the front speakers should be angled in slightly at around 30 degrees, facing the focal point of the home theater. Is that true for the SDA-1s, or is that not good due to the SDA effect?
Never toe in SDA speakers.
heiney9
06-03-2011, 07:43 AM
I have acquired a BRAND NEW AI-1 cable, and it's terminations are both pin/blade. I hope it works! If not they do seem to have a decent demand.
So who verified that your 1C's can even use the AI-1? I must have missed that post. Good luck.
H9
heiney9
06-03-2011, 07:47 AM
By the way... quick question about speaker placement. All guides I see for home theater setup say that the front speakers should be angled in slightly at around 30 degrees, facing the focal point of the home theater. Is that true for the SDA-1s, or is that not good due to the SDA effect?
There are very specific instructions for setting SDA's up properly. The closer you follow the guidelines the better they will sound. As F1 stated no toe in at all.
H9
So who verified that your 1C's can even use the AI-1? I must have missed that post. Good luck.
H9
Two modes of verification :)
First, it was suggested I measure the impedance from the blade socket to the negative speaker terminal, and if it was zero, it should work. It was in fact zero.
Second, I found a picture of the list that says what SDA-1Cs work with it here:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70236
I am in the clear by a long shot :D
Never toe in SDA speakers.
Thanks, I'll be sure not to do that!
heiney9
06-03-2011, 11:11 AM
Well, you're set then!
Just an FYI, almost all the information contained in Darqueknight's SDA Compendium is on Club Polk somewhere. That's one of the main reasons he decided not to do another edition. Granted, having the info in one easy to use binded book is much more convenient obviously, but there aren't any "secrets" in the Compendium that aren't here somewhere in the archives.
H9
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