Twisted Pear Buffalo III DUAL MONO DAC Build

[SCompRacer]

74132

This yet to be completed project and pile of parts can only mean one thing. The best way I can express my love for this Twisted Pear Buffalo III DAC is by keeping it and making it bigger, making it better. A dual mono DAC is nothing new. Quite simply, one DAC chip per channel allows for the best possible dynamic range with no timing shifts between channels that is possible with a shared DAC chip, if you believe in that sort of thing.

When I finally got the Squeezebox Touch and ripped my digital to hard drive, I was in love with the convenience, but began to miss the sound quality of my ModWright Sony 9100ES. I performed some extensive mods to a Music Hall 25.3 DAC and while I got closer, did not achieve my targeted SQ results. I had a good friend here the other day who is no stranger to audio and we went from the modded MH 25.3 to the ModWright Sony 9100ES to the caseless BIII DAC, and he said you have to build me one of these!

The Buffalo III DAC uses the ESS Sabre32 Reference (ES9018) DAC chip which supports up to 32-bit/192kHz input. The chip itself has some outside the box thinking and DAC's using them are very popular. CP's Fred (FTGV) also has a BIII and summed it up well;

"I have been keeping an eye on (more like drooling over) TP's development process of this DAC over the last few years and appreciated how they were striving to optimize each performance area for maximum sound quality. (For instance the use of such high quality voltage regulation for the DAC chip itself is a rarity). "

Per TP;

"Two 3.3V Trident modules provide power for the on board Oscillator (VDD_XO) and main digital sections of the ES9018 (DVCC). One 1.2V Trident module provides power for the digital core (VDD) of the ES9018. An AVCC module provides power for the left and right analog sections of the ES9018."

The other thing Twisted Pear does is expose use of all the DAC's features and adjustment parameters via two blocks of dipswitches. Two of the most important to me are I2S (CD) and DSD (SACD) input. This means I am not chained to S/PDIF coax out on a digital player and only CD's. I2S (and DSD) separate the clock and data streams which can improve SQ over S/PDIF coax out with a CD. I modded my Denon 3910 to export both CD and SACD. A switch on the back of it allows me to change between the two outputs to the DAC so I can use it to play hard media as well as the digital on my hard drive through a SB Touch.

I'll stay with the larger and high heat producing shunting power supplies and add a second discrete output board, the TP Legato balanced output. I'll also stay with BNC inputs for the coax in which are a true 75 Ohms, unlike RCA's which are not and can cause reflections in a S/PDIF signal. I haven't been this excited about DIY and audio gear in a long time. (Well, since the Lenco turntable project anyway:biggrin:). Yes it should only be about the music, but to paraphrase Freddie Mercury, I Want It All, and I Want It Now!:cheesygrin:

[bikerboy]

Way to go! Man when I listen to the i2s from the flac files I really like this digital sound. I know its because of the TPA buffalo. I have seen quad setups! Wholly shi-! Have fun with the build. What case are you going to use?

[strider]

Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one, Rich!

[SCompRacer]

Way to go! Man when I listen to the i2s from the flac files I really like this digital sound. I know its because of the TPA buffalo. I have seen quad setups! Wholly shi-! Have fun with the build. What case are you going to use?

Thanks to you both!

That quad Buffalo III DAC is sick! After this I may try building one of their less expensive DAC's for the 'putie. If it wasn't for the programming, I might tackle the Arduino control with a four line digital display. Waiting for TP to finish their control someday along with the hi-res USB module. I may do AES/EBU, two coax via BNC, and possibly a USB input. The Sidecar allows for the fifth input, I2S/DSD.

Case wise, looking at the Modushop / Hifi 2000 Pesante in Black.

http://www.modu.it/pesante_10mm.jpg

http://www.modu.it/piastra_interna_pesante.jpg

You know about the heat, and I can get vented cover, lower panel and internal drilled base options. Their side cover heat sink options have me wondering about vertical mounting a Placid HD and Placid HD BP power supply on each side, attaching the regs to the sides below the PCB instead of the conventional board heat sinking. Fred did that with his DAC with Salas shunting supply, only using the base panel as the heat sink.

Modushop will work with Front panel express software. I'd like to get a nice CNC cut rear/front panel with silkscreened front panel. I just read about some language translation problems with them. The rear inputs/outputs I can always label using a PTouch. That worked well with Carl's Coronet II.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Carls%20Coronet2/h24.jpg

I've looked at Par-Metal but they don't appear to offer the case venting options I'll need without machining. Same with Front Panel Express. You got any suggestions I can look at?

[headrott]

Rich, you could look at Bud industries chassis. There is a link Here (http://www.budind.com/view/Aluminum+Enclosure/Rackmount+Chassis). They are not the most "fit and finish" chassis in the world, but I got it because it was large enough and is very well ventilated. I hope this helps.

You DAC is going to be nice. Eventually, I would like to "upgrade" to the Buffalo III. I will do it probably not too long from now.

[FTGV]

Wow Rich ya done gone and did it!Considering how good the standard config. sounds I'll be interested in your results with the tricked out DM version.

These Hammonds are solid (but ordinary looking) and have the option of top and bottom ventilation. http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwg25.htm

[doctorcilantro]

Nice man, nice!

[SCompRacer]

Thanks for the enclosure suggestions and kind words!


Eventually, I would like to "upgrade" to the Buffalo III. I will do it probably not too long from now.

If you have the Tridents on the BII all you get are more options with the BIII, IIRC? Fairly sure Russ posted that over at diyAudio.

My Twisted Pear dual mono Buffalo III DAC works! No smoke, flames or scary moments. (Just lots of heat). I did have quite a checklist to prevent issues. I fabbed a thin temporary enclosure sizing it to one of the larger size dual mono chassis folks have used (17" x 15.75"). I could pack things a bit tighter for a less deep enclosure, but width would stay the same. I do want to save a spot for a yet to be released hi-res USB input from Twisted Pear.

Configuration are two Twisted Pear Buffalo III DAC's with two TP Legato output boards (fully discrete balanced active I/V line stages). The DAC/output boards are powered by two TP Placid HD BP and Placid HD shunting power supplies.

A 4-Channel S/PDIF input board with front mounted selector controls inputs. I just have coax in via a BNC connector right now. I'll probaby add an AES/EBU, another coax in and a USB input down the road. A fifth input named the Sidecar handles I2S (CD) and DSD (SACD) fed from a modified Denon 3910. A switch on rear activates the Sidecar which is between the 4 channel input board and DAC's. A TP Teleporter sends and receives the selected signal from the Denon through a Cat5 cable. The Sidecar and Teleporter are powered by one side of a TP LCDPS (low current dual power supply) 5v linear power supply. It uses one of the two secondaries from a toroidal that powers one of the Placid HD's.

Two TP Ventus EZ headphone amps handle balanced to single ended out (and offers future headphone out). A TP LCBPS (low current bipolar power supply) powers the Venus EZ's. I did use the volume control option in the ES9018 DAC chip. That happens in the digital domain and you don't take a SQ hit using it.

It is quiet and hum free. Going from the single to dual mono has been like going from a very good plain bowl of ice cream to one with all your favorite trimmings added. It was well worth the investment to me. Now it is time to get a nice chassis for it.

(Oh, Fred, that star ground for the power supplies/boards is mounted on a plastic standoff:wink:).


http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/biii_proto_1.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/biii_proto_2.jpg

[FTGV]

Impressive Rich.Did you experience solder fatigue?

[SCompRacer]

Thanks Fred. More like wiring fatigue. I am partially color blind. :eek::cheesygrin:

[FTGV]

I am partially color blind. :eek::cheesygrin:I can see how that might prove challenging.:eek:
Screw the chassis,considering the heat it must be disipating just throw a plenum and duct work on it for some auxillary heating for those cold mid western winter nights.:wink:

btw.what's the VA rating on those trannies?

[SCompRacer]

I can see how that might prove challenging.:eek:
Screw the chassis,considering the heat it must be disipating just throw a plenum and duct work on it for some auxillary heating for those cold mid western winter nights.:wink:

btw.what's the VA rating on those trannies?

The wife checks up on my wiring from time to time.:cheesygrin: I worked under her daylight grow lights with mostly primary colors so I did good. Orange and Reds can kick my arse under Fluorescent lighting. I hear you on the heat. And it sure takes up some real estate.

The big ones are 30 VA, 15 x 15 Secondary, Secondary
Current 1.0 A. The smaller ones are 15VA, 9 x 9, Secondary Current .83 A.

[SCompRacer]

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/ard_uno_4.jpg

Progress! Just before I left for Polkfest 2012 my Arduino UNO board and 4x20 LCD arrived. I slapped it together today on a breadboard and it works (on the bench anyway)!

I have HiFiDuino to thank (he has one great blog! His handle at diyAudio is glt).

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/introduction-and-guide-to-hifiduino/

glt wrote the code for controlling the ESS Sabre32 DAC chip via I2C (a two wire serial communication) and kindly makes it available to us 'codeless' individuals. I just have to go into the code and modify it for my BIII dual mono application. He even provides instruction on how to do that. The DIY community is very helpful in sharing Arduino code and things learned, like adding an even larger LCD display. Then I have to connect it to the DAC, remove the firmware chip and see if it still works. The kewl thing is this display/control adds no negative sonic qualities to the DAC.

So instead of dipswitch settings, serial code will set all options in the ESS Sabre32 DAC chip (the ES9018), along with volume control. Next up might be remote control.:cool: Case design is impatiently waiting though. They don't want to design a picture window LCD in the front panel unless it all works properly.

[tonyb]

Hot damn Rich, I'm gonna have to slap you just for being so damn good at what you do. Beautiful work and craftmanship pal. The only thing left to say is ....build me a dac would ya ?:cheesygrin:

[SCompRacer]

Hey Tony! C'mon over, I could use a slap! Or a beer and listening session. Some of us think this is an outstanding DAC with no limitations on inputs or performance.

Thanks for the kind words but I'm just a bottom feeder on this Arduino control. I am getting some programming help from a fellow in Hong Kong and The Netherlands. One of them got some help from a fellow with the screen name DimDim. Talk about ironic or an oxymoron.....a go-to guy calls himself DimDim.

Due to the various input methods the DAC allows you have to know what to do with the code to make them inputs happen. (I was elated just to figure out all the proper dipswitch settings). I just can't get a handle on all the lingo yet.

A sample of the code.....


void writeSabreReg(byte regAddr, byte regVal)
{
Wire.beginTransmission(0x48); //Hard coded to the the Sabre/Buffalo device address
Wire.write(regAddr); // Specifying the address of register
Wire.write(regVal); // Writing the value into the register
Wire.endTransmission();

#ifdef DUALMONO
Wire.beginTransmission(0x49); //Hard coded to the the other Sabre/Buffalo device address
Wire.write(regAddr); // Specifying the address of register
Wire.write(regVal); // Writing the value into the register
Wire.endTransmission();
#endif DUALMONO


Before, I only knew registers was where the heat or cool air comes out of in a house, usally where the dog was laying.:cheesygrin:

[tonyb]

Yeah man, I can see where all the techy lingo can have ya scratching your head. All I know is I wouldn't have the patience for it and commend your efforts in all that it takes to make something like this dac build happen. Truely you have some hidden talents, not so hidden anymore.:cheesygrin:

Give me a yell when you are are settled with that baby and decide to have a few slackers over for a listen. I'd pull a few chest hairs out and make the trip for sure.

[FTGV]

Hey Tony! C'mon over, I could use a slap! Or a beer and listening session. Some of us think this is an outstanding DAC with no limitations on inputs or performance.

TDangerous offer Rich.You know that anyone who hears it will be wanting you to build them one.

Adding the LCD will be a nice touch.

[SCompRacer]

Dangerous offer Rich.You know that anyone who hears it will be wanting you to build them one.

Adding the LCD will be a nice touch.

Hey Fred! IF I can get it to work.

The code is difficult for me. Not everyone is using the TP 4 channel S/PDIF input board with Sidecar, and I am lost how to get it to work. The Honk Kong connection is using Ian's FIFO board from diyAudio so his code won't work with the TP 4 channel card. The Netherlands guy is just using Sidecar(s) IIRC. I can change inputs with the encoder, it changes on the display, the volume works, I can change settings in the DAC chip, but no signal lock through any of the 4 S/PDIF inputs. If I trigger the Sidecar, I get lock from the CD player I2S out. And BOTH channels play.:cheesygrin:

The fellow in the Netherlands offered to look over my code and see if he can figure out the error of my ways. I'll send it tonight when I get home. The other thing I thought of is I might be missing a remapping code as there is a dipswitch for that. The manual selector would select any of the 4 S/PDIF inputs, so the I2C should.

[SCompRacer]

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/ard_proto_1.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/ard_proto_2.jpg

We are in working prototype mode right now. I have a new found respect for programmers. 50 single sided pages of code to make this all work. Unlike switches and relays that don't care what color wire you use, how neat you did it, code has to be 100% correct or no worky.

A nice 24/96 hi-res vinyl rip of mine being played, Hats by The Blue Nile. From left to right, top to bottom, small font, displays input, type of file (SPDIF, I2S, DSD), oversampling on or off, sampling rate, Fir filter, Lir filter, DPLL bandwidth, DPLL mode, Quantizer setting, Notch delay and the big numbers, volume. A push of the encoder allows changes. You can save best values for each individual input, just set and forget. Dipswitches lock you into one setting and are not easily changed.

A BIG thanks to Corpius in The Netherlands for help with the code.

[heiney9]

So once you are done fidling with this prototype, you can churn out a couple a day?

Easy peasy, right?

:smile::lol::mrgreen:

I'll take one!

Great Job! can't wait to hear it

H9

[schwarcw]

Terrific job as usual Rich! Your DAC looks like it is approaching two chassis size. Any thoughts of isolating the power supply transformers in a separate chassis and case? Scottinwa may have some tips for you!

[SCompRacer]

So once you are done fidling with this prototype, you can churn out a couple a day?

Easy peasy, right?

:smile::lol::mrgreen:

I'll take one!

Great Job! can't wait to hear it

H9

Thanks Brock! I can sure complicate things, so don't count on production.:cheesygrin: We do need to hook up! Don't we go see Regina soon? Dana said she was accompanying me so I won't need that date.:twisted::lol:

The code works well; I can select all four S/PDIF inputs along with the external input fed by the modded Denon 3910 that exports I2S (CD) and DSD (SACD). The DAC input figures out if it is I2S or DSD. Tomorrow I will test some new code to activate a relay for the DAC's external input that is presently under manual control on the back of the DAC. After that, cut and print.

I ordered a small board that controls the LCD display. It eliminates many of the wires from the Arduino control currently needed to run it. Much simpler and neater. Corpius, whom has helped tremendously with the code, has designed a PCB with multiple options and headers that will make wiring the LCD even neater. He is having some made now.



Terrific job as usual Rich! Your DAC looks like it is approaching two chassis size. Any thoughts of isolating the power supply transformers in a separate chassis and case?

Hey Carl! Thanks! Some folks do a dual chassis but I think I will keep it all in one with the same layout. I won't go with a much smaller footprint that it is in now, especially with the added Arduino control with LCD. I've seen builds with barrier walls between components as well. I added a quality linear power supply for the Arduino (some wire an AC wall wart inside the case). You know how obsessed I am with a low noise floor and that I do have. No hiss, no hum, at all. Staying large will help spacing the hot running power supplies. The two for the DAC boards run ~60C, the two for the discrete output boards ~50C.

I am leaning toward staying with the 4x20 character LCD. I have no desire to redo the code for a larger display. The code has a neat option to minimize the menu options. The full menu is easily brought up if desired by pressing on the encoder. Maybe, I'll just add a remote...:cheesygrin:


http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/ard_uno_6.jpg


http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/ard_uno_5.jpg

[FTGV]

Whoa!The cool factor is off the charts Rich.If I decide to expand beyond a single input I might give that a go.

[SCompRacer]

I've been working lots of hours with little free time, but managed to add remote capability to my DAC. Once again I got help from Corpius in the Netherlands who has a Sidecar/4 input SPDIF board like my build. Origin of code was from HiFiDuino originally written for the Buffalo II DAC. We use an Apple remote which costs $20. It is a compact aluminum remote with a nice feel. It is pictured on the single sided stack of code I printed that makes all this possible.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/remote.jpg

Still waiting for the custom shield (PCB) that will attach to the Arduino UNO board and simplify and neaten wiring to the LCD. A small I2C control board was added to the LCD screen which reduced the number of wires to print to the display to five wires. You get a slight delay in printing to screen compared to hard wired and have to replace the Arduino LCD library with one supplied by the folks at electroFUN.

http://www.electrofunltd.com/

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DOGf2_SrseQ/Tq_iZ4SyX6I/AAAAAAAAAGU/oRaCm_hvOIs/s1600/I2CLCDextraIO_assemblyBotton_1.jpg



I made a short video of the remote in action. Volume, source select and ability to adjust all options in the ESS Sabre32 DAC chip.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJ2wb3H3rIQ&feature=youtu.be

[EndersShadow]

So when do you start making productions units of this for forum members :wink:...

LOL, just kidding, pricing probably outside my wheelhouse, but once again super cool update. Its always fun to see the onward and upward climb of this massive build!

[SCompRacer]

So when do you start making productions units of this for forum members :wink:...



Thanks for the kind words! Real soon now that I am past the hard parts. Just adding a USB module is next. Twisted Pear will eventually finish and release their controller board for the BIII and hopefully very soon their hi-res USB module. I got one standing order for a dual mono build similar to mine and a guy dibbed my DAC if/when I sell it.:cheesygrin:

The dual mono does push the price up. One could stay with a single BIII config, use linear power supplies. Twisted Pear also has some lower cost offerings such as their Opus. The Opus is based on Wolfson's fine WM8741 DAC chip. It offers options for I2S and DSD inputs, can be built in dual mono config and also be controlled with software.

http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/opus.aspx

HiFiDuino had interfaced to an Opus with the Arduino hardware/code.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/introduction-and-guide-to-hifiduino/

[EndersShadow]

Thanks for the kind words! Real soon now that I am past the hard parts. Just adding a USB module is next. Twisted Pear will eventually finish and release their controller board for the BIII and hopefully very soon their hi-res USB module. I got one standing order for a dual mono build similar to mine and a guy dibbed my DAC if/when I sell it.:cheesygrin:

The dual mono does push the price up. One could stay with a single BIII config, use linear power supplies. Twisted Pear also has some lower cost offerings such as their Opus. The Opus is based on Wolfson's fine WM8741 DAC chip. It offers options for I2S and DSD inputs, can be built in dual mono config and also be controlled with software.

http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/opus.aspx

HiFiDuino had interfaced to an Opus with the Arduino hardware/code.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/introduction-and-guide-to-hifiduino/

Prices aren't nearly as bad as I thought. Might make it a viable option for me.

[schwarcw]

Damn Rich!

You need to figure out a way to mass produce that piece in India, China or somewhere. You will have so much money you could buy FedEx. You are the DAC king!

[schwarcw]

Prices aren't nearly as bad as I thought. Might make it a viable option for me.

You might not see the whole picture. Rich's project is not cheap. It might cost as much as my whole system. That dual mono masterpiece is way out of my league!!

[EndersShadow]

You might not see the whole picture. Rich's project is not cheap. It might cost as much as my whole system. That dual mono masterpiece is way out of my league!!

Oh I know, but bought piece by piece in small chunks it doesnt look too ridiculously priced....

[SCompRacer]

My LCD shield arrived from the Netherlands so I was able to tidy up the display portion of my DAC project. The shield or PCB just required some header pins added to plug it directly into the Arduino UNO board and for harness connectors. Three harnesses connect the LCD, rotary encoder and IR receiver for the remote. Another harness (seen in the fourth picture) connects to the DAC board. You can see how the shield makes for a much neater install.

Other components mounted on the shield are the level converter that drops 5v down to 3.5 for the Buffalo III I2C (two wire serial control) header. Also on the shield is a MCP42010 two channel digital resistor to control LCD backlighting, also via remote. Up a couple of posts I had already added the I2C control of the LCD which makes for a significant reduction in wires to the LCD screen.

I got the shield from CE-designs and it ran me 5 euro or $6.47 plus postage.

http://ce-designs.net/index.php/shop/single-pcbs/buffalo-shield-detail

Aside from some fine tuning on the code, getting a nice enclosure is up next. In the final build, I'll add a USB cable/input so I can program the Arduino without removing the cover.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/lcd_shield_1.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/lcd_shield_2.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/lcd_shield_3.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/lcd_shield_4.jpg

[tonyb]

Nice work Rich, again. Your one of a few that put as much effort into squeezing every last drop of SQ from your digital as you do your analog.

[agfrost]

That's a nice way of saying it, Tony. One could also say "Geez, Rich, you're somewhere in between "OCD" and "lunatic."

(I keed, I keed!) :lol:

[SCompRacer]

Your one of a few that put as much effort into squeezing every last drop of SQ from your digital as you do your analog.

And that is a good thing, right?:cheesygrin: Thanks Tony! The end is in sight. I decided on a hi-res USB to I2S module to try since the Twisted Pear hi-res USB module is yet to be released. My Netherlands connection has one and will report his findings. Many folks say due to the DAC chip design, you don't as big a boost in SQ going from SPDIF to I2S input.


That's a nice way of saying it, Tony. One could also say "Geez, Rich, you're somewhere in between "OCD" and "lunatic."

(I keed, I keed!) :lol:

Funny man! LOL Jay, I guess some might believe that. As Shaw said all progress depends on the unreasonable man.:cheesygrin:

Working with modushop is great so far. They are in Italy...I get this email from Andrea about my plans...Hey! Wassa mattu u? Stupidio!:biggrin:

[strider]

And that is a good thing, right?:cheesygrin: Thanks Tony! The end is in sight. I decided on a hi-res USB to I2S module to try since the Twisted Pear hi-res USB module is yet to be released. My Netherlands connection has one and will report his findings. Many folks say due to the DAC chip design, you don't as big a boost in SQ going from SPDIF to I2S input.

Which USB converter did you go with?

[tonyb]

Eh guys...you know the score. Every so often we get someone who wants their Iphone or computer music plugged into a 300 buck avr to sound as good as their 2 channel analog system and give up while proclaiming digital sucks. Call me old fashioned, but I still remember all the tweeks and junk we tooled around with to squeeze out that last drop of SQ from our analog stereo gear. It's just refreshing to see that same passion in the digital world. Something Rich has in spades.

Carry on.....still can't wait to get together with a bunch of you goons for a cocktail and a listen.

[SCompRacer]

Which USB converter did you go with?

This one.....99euro, like ~$127 US.

http://luckit.biz/new/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/waveIO2-300x300.png

http://luckit.biz/new/product/waveio/

The thread at diyAudio.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/188902-xmos-based-asynchronous-usb-i2s-interface.html

Asynchronous 24/192, ASIO/KS/WASAPI/Direct Sound drivers for Windows XP. I haven't got it yet, will order next week. The enclosure was the priority right now. I was thinking of modding a Musiland USB DAC (similar pricing) but they use a packet transfer I'm not sold on versus asynchronous. And I'd have to solder tiny leads to the tiny PCB traces to extract I2S before the DAC chip like I did with the Denon. I have one side of a nice Twisted Pear LCDPS dual 5v linear power supply open in my DAC to power it.

If USB to I2S results in significant improvement to SQ, I could entertain the idea of the exaU21. Up to 384 kHz I2S and 352.8 kHz DSD audio in full 32 bit resolution. (The ESS Sabre DAC chip handles SPDIF differently than other DAC chips which results in less jitter and better SQ with the SPDIF signal). The exaU21 runs $430 though and will also handle DSD over USB. I'd have to sell something to fund that. The OT door got shut the other day at work.

http://www.exadevices.com/exaU2I/Overview.aspx

http://www.exadevices.com/portals/2/Images/exaU2I-v300.jpg

LOL Tony....Goons r us... Yet I still enjoy music from other sources, just not as much....lately the retro system with Polk 7A's has been getting lots of use.

[strider]

That exaU21 is really nice but I'd have to sell something also, like an organ. Hadn't seen the one you went with, although I've seen the thread on Diyaudio. It seems pretty similar to the one I am considering from Minidsp, their USBstreamer. (http://www.minidsp.com/products/usb-audio-interface/usbstreamer) I currently am using their ministreamer, but it doesn't support anything above 24/96 and it is isosynchronus.

[SCompRacer]

I missed that one...

There is another one, the Amanero. $97 US. OEM Combo384 Module - USB class 2 to I2S 32bit and DSD output Converter.

http://amanero.com/

http://amanero.com/IMGP1175.JPG

Thread at diyAudio.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendors-bazaar/216474-usb-i2s-384khz-dsd-converter.html

If you haven’t already, check out HiFiDuino. While navigating his blog is difficult (for me anyway) he is always trying different USB solutions (along with modding them) and even provides measurements. He is the one that first wrote and made the Arduino code available to all for the Buffalo II DAC. He gave lots of folks a start that wouldn’t of had a chance to get I2C control of the Buffalo DAC.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/category/diy-hifi/

[SCompRacer]

Another interesting diy USB offering is Ian's asynchronous I2S and S/PDIF FIFO KIT. ~$149 + depending on options.

Thread at diyAudio.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/207438-ian-asynchronous-i2s-s-pdif-fifo-kit-group-buy-40.html#post3093337

Lots of intersting things going on in the digital DIY world! I think all this effort led to exa building a DAC based on the ESS Sabre32 that does asynchronous USB from 44.1 to 384Khz at 32bit resolution, and DSD at 2.82 and 5.64 MHz. $2,500 ducks IIRC, with a 30 day free trial.

http://www.exasound.com/e20DAC/e20DACOverview.aspx

That is what I basically wanted and built, although I went with shunting power supplies. As a wise man once told me Twisted Pear has strived to optimize each performance area for max sound quality. The DAC chip itself has four high quality regulators which is rare. It appears the exa DAC has an external PS. Not sure if it is a wall wart or not.

[strider]

That exa DAC is pretty nice looking, what a shame it would be if it were powered by a wall wart.

This one your building is off the charts, though. The products that Twisted Pear offers are first rate, but your implementation of their stuff really makes it shine. It's inspired me to re-do my DAC. Each section of the DAC will have an independent transformer and power supply in a case seperate from the DAC board, new USB interface, re-wired etc. The power supplies I purchased from a group buy on diyaudio.com, they're designed by poster Salas on there. The DAC board is a demonstration board for Burr Brown DAC chips, I have a PCM 1792. Fred was gracious enough to karma the board a while back. It'll definitely be a step up in performance, but not like this dual mono monster!

[bikerboy]

Hi Guys,
I just received the Amanero usb to i2s converter. I was able to get it via a GB on diyaudio for about $60. It sounds much better than the Teradac terelink usb module it replaced. I have a single BuffaloIII not the dual mono monster Rich has created. The pc is sounding better than ever. A Cardas usb cable that I bought here on the forum also improved the sound much to my surprise. I think the new AVCC/Trident combo is next on the list for me. Now I need to figure out how to get some 384khz music to test out this new usb device. Fun stuff!

[SCompRacer]

Hey Ben, glad to hear I inspired something in a good way:cheesygrin: Thank you both for the kind words.

Those Salas power supplies are top notch. Fred uses them in his BIII build. He was very clever and used the chassis floor as a heat sink. Fred was the one that reminded me of Twisted Pear when I looked for an even better DAC after the Music Hall 25.3 mods.

I was considering separate enclosures for power supplies but have been careful about wiring and placement. I am real fussy about a low noise floor and still have it. One of my tests is to crank the volume full tilt with no music playing and I still have no hiss or hum from speakers. Therefore I decided on a large enclosure to keep the spacing as is.

In the final assembly, I will implement some shielding between the toroidals and DAC boards. I have seen folks with dual mono builds use a smaller chassis using less transformers. I wanted to maintain galvanic isolation between the two power supplies that could have shared a transformer and stayed with the six. Two feed linear supplies that power the Arduino/LCD (12v) and Sidecar/Teleporter modules (5v) and future USB module. I wanted that LCD with its own PS as they can add noise. I used a star or single point ground for all power supplies and boards. That ground is isolated from chassis ground.

If I had to assign a SQ percentage to the dual mono BIII versus my single build, it would be ~15%. The big boost was in channel separation and increased detail. That common statement of hearing things you didn?t notice before applied. But quite an expense to get that improvement.

Ironic, but my love of analog funded this DAC project. I had much less invested in the Lenco build than my Nottingham Space 294 with speed control was worth. I liked the Lenco better and sold the Space 294, which paid for my digital fix.

[SCompRacer]

Hi Guys,
I just received the Amanero usb to i2s converter. I was able to get it via a GB on diyaudio for about $60.

Wow, I missed that. Great deal for you, sonically and cost wise! It is like $100 now. Lots of great USB choices out there in the $100-$150 range. My USB module may be delayed a bit due to enclosure costs. That machining really adds up! Modushop has been great to work with. English is a second language for them so pictures and a precise front panel express file are very important.

[SCompRacer]

This weekend I added LCD backlight control and temperature monitor accessible via manual encoder and remote control.:cheesygrin:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWaBTpUBWgo

The custom LCD shield had a header for some LM35 temp sensors, so why not. I think it's a wrap. (Although my bud in the Netherlands added day/date/time clock to his).:idea::biggrin: Na, I'm done.

The enclosure is finalized with some added machining to the rear of the 10mm thick front panel. I added a cavity in rear side to move the LCD screen closer to the front side. A 45 degree chamfer was also added around the outer edge of LCD opening. It will be a couple weeks or more before I get it (modushop is in Italy).

I've had some challenging and frustrating moments with the code, but am glad I stuck with adding the I2C control with display.

[chumlie]

Nice work. Mad skills you have there. Also thanks for the link to lencoheaven. Lots of good reading.

[bikerboy]

Hi Rich,
They are starting another GB on the Amerano. It does sound very good and easy to get working well. I am using the usb for power and it sounds great. I will make a 3.3v ps and see if it helps. Nice work the the dual mono Buff. I've thought about the arduno but think it is over my head. Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

[SCompRacer]

Nice work. Mad skills you have there. Also thanks for the link to lencoheaven. Lots of good reading.

Thanks! Lenco Heaven is a great place!


Hi Rich,
They are starting another GB on the Amerano. It does sound very good and easy to get working well. I am using the usb for power and it sounds great. I will make a 3.3v ps and see if it helps. Nice work the the dual mono Buff. I've thought about the arduno but think it is over my head. Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Hey, thanks for the heads up! I added my name to the now GB III list.

Have you been following glt's blog and the $10 bit clock re-clocking mod on the Amanero using the Potato Semi flip-flop chip? Looks very mad scientist but he did achieve some impressive results.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2012/11/04/amanero-bit-clock-re-clocking-results/

http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/dsc02490.jpg?w=893&h=509

Once I try USB>I2S with the Amanero module and if it proves significant over SPDIF, I'd have to redo my PC based setup. Like with a mini PC controlled by touch pad or smart phone. I've yet to open up the SB Touch and mod it to export I2S. The folks that have done it report modest to great gains. Multiple I2S and DSD sources will have me adding some creative switching too..it just never ends...more code......:eek::cheesygrin:

The Arduino isn't too bad once you get immersed in it. I made it even more complicated by adding features. Nice to have total control at your fingertips rather than open up and make dipswitch settings. Arduino and code really hurt my brain at first but now it has subsided into a dull ache. It's not too expensive with an UNO going for ~$30 and a 4x20 LCD ~ $15. A rotary encoder runs a few bucks (HiFiDuino does list products he used suggestions). Adding an Apple remote another $20. Highly recommended add on is the I2C LCDextra IO board. ~$8.50 US. Assembled to either blue or green LCD, ~$20.32 US. You do have to add a couple lines of code and download their lcd library to replace the Arduino lcd library or it won't work.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-omDYMI8NB5o/Tq_hZSDxRdI/AAAAAAAAAGM/Z4-p1_qQ_cs/s1600/I2CLCDextraIO_bottom_1.jpg

I2C serial control results in a significant reduction in wires to the LCD. Adding the custom shield like I did makes it even neater. 5 euro, ~$6.38.

http://www.electrofunltd.com/p/i2c-lcd-extra-io.html#!/p/i2c-lcd-extra-io.html

http://www.ce-designs.net/index.php/shop/single-pcbs/buffalo-shield-detail

Then download the free code from HiFiDuino and modify for your application. Help is available out there in the DIY world. I plugged mine into a wallwart PS and tested the code before connecting it to the BIII. That will show if you can access menu items and select different sources.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/code/

Follow HiFi Duino's illustrated step by step there.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/introduction-and-guide-to-hifiduino/

The code was originally written for the BII so you have to mod it for a BIII if you have multiple input sources. Corpius made his BIII add on code public here.

http://www.ce-designs.net/index.php/my-projects/dac/7-buffalo3-arduino-input-selection

If Twisted Pear ever releases their control, I am guessing it will be a lot easier to implement as Russ has programmer skillz. Corpius is also working on an I2C controller here.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/221559-es9018-i2c-controller.html

Despite the pain I have enjoyed this project very much. I thought I knew a lot about digital before....yet I have learned so much and there is still more to know. The DIY world is striving to get the best out of digital. Glad I got on board.

[FTGV]

Hey Rich did you get your replacement micro board to operate the relay string on your sidecar correctly?

[SCompRacer]

Hey Rich did you get your replacement micro board to operate the relay string on your sidecar correctly?

Hey Fred. Yes I did. I had changed to a lower value resistor on the Sidecar board so it could be activated by the low voltage TP manual selector board. I forgot about that in the move to Arduino control, and it exceeded the 40ma of the UNO. I could still use it on a build that doesn't require a Sidecar. There are also other pins available to go to, but I didn't try any of them.

[SCompRacer]

Hardware debounce added to my rotary encoder. Hardware debounce results in less noise versus software 'in the code' debounce. I find you get less ghost changes and overshoot with hardware debounce too, or I am just getting better at turning the knob....:cheesygrin: With the remote I rarely use the manual encoder anyway.

My front panel is machined and heading off to anodizing! It should ship next week. Modushop in Italy is doing the work. The main reason I went with them is looks, machining options and cooling options for this hot running DAC. They offer a fully drilled base to mount components on, and fully vented top and bottom panels. I had a rear panel cavity added to move the LCD closer to the face of front panel.

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/index_l2.php

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/piastrainternapesante_0000.jpg

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/coperchioaerato400mm_0003.jpg

[SCompRacer]

Oh, when I said less noise with hardware debouncing, I meant in the circuit for the Arduino controller. There is no noise that makes it way to the speakers turning the encoder with software debounce.

[FTGV]

That front panel looks incredible.Oh and noise free switching is always nice.

[SCompRacer]

That front panel looks incredible.Oh and noise free switching is always nice.

Thanks Fred! I like showing the pic of the front panel to my wife. She says "Oh honey, it's so big!":cheesygrin:


This image shows a .7 milliseconds bounce from an encoder after it is turned and stop. The caps/resistors are suppose to fix that. Bourns says so!

http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/rotaryencoder-bounce.jpg

From the HiFiDuino site.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2010/10/20/rotaryencoder-hw-sw-no-debounce/

[schwarcw]

I like showing the pic of the front panel to my wife. She says "Oh honey, it's so big!" :cheesygrin:



LOL! That's funny!


Man that case looks fantastic. It will look great anodized black with color letters!

[SCompRacer]

Hey Carl! I'll try your suggestion of water based latex instead of enamel on a test piece. The enamel sounds scarier, so you know where I?m likely to go?:twisted::cheesygrin:



Hi Rich,
They are starting another GB on the Amerano.

11 to go....getting kind of anxious.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmX4TyHWgSmNdE5laDJQNlA3UVBYaWlrczJwYS1Ec Xc#gid=0

I have one half of an adjustable dual linear PS open. I was considering changing some parts on it to get the voltage past 6.5v and use it on the Arduino, but I think it best to keep the controller with LCD separate of the modules I am powering with the other half of the PS.

What software are you using? foobar? JRiver?

[SCompRacer]

Tonight on Void-Your-Warranty SCompRacer disassembles his SB Touch to perform an I2S out mod.:cheesygrin: I2S separates clock from data and can sound better than SPDIF via coax out. It does sound a bit better, but not a whole bunch. Part of that is due to how the ESS Sabre32 DAC chip handles SPDIF. Decoding is done using a method that does not require an explicit measure of the clock frequency. The best way to do this mod is perform an external clock mod to the Touch with I2S out. A Twisted Pear Teleporter (LVDS or Low-voltage differential signaling module) like used in the Denon transmits the signal to my DAC.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/touch_i2s_1.jpg

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/touch_i2s_2.jpg

[FTGV]

Brave little fellar aren't we.Your certainly covering all the bases.
Agreed going IS2 would likely prove more benificial with a DAC that needs a separate SPDIF reciever chip,such as the cs8416,instead of the Sabres integral SPDIF reciever and it's time domain jitter reduction.

[SCompRacer]

Brave little fellar aren't we.

Yup, considering that since they have been discontinued folks are asking from $400 to $1K for the Touch on ebay.

I'm very pleased with the SPDIF via coax so far on this DAC. I see myself moving to a USB via PC due to no limitations of hi-res and DSD files I can play (384KHz to 2.8MHz +). I want DSD over USB, not dithered down to PCM. Lots of modules to choose from and they are getting better. I'm sure JRiver is in my future when I go that route.

As you know ESS Sabre is one of the DAC chips where I2S and DSD share some inputs. The Amanero USB module does DSD and HiFiDuino is using foobar to fix the R and L channel swap in DSD. I have no problem adding another OTTO II, or two of them, to switch between I2S sources inside the DAC. I'll just write more code to handle the switching for the appropriate inputs, or just use a mechanical switch on the back like I did with the Denon.

[SCompRacer]

My DAC enclosure has arrived. Shipped from Hi-Fi 2000 / Modushop in Italy 11/28, arrive 12/5!

http://www.modushop.biz/ecommerce/index_l2.php

It is a Pesante 3U, 10mm front panel, 450mm (17.7" wide front panel, internal 17.12") x 400mm (15.78" deep) x 120mm (4.7" high). Add ons were both sides front panel machined, engraved, anodize after machine, drilled inner base, 29mm shiny knob, fully vented top cover and four of their anti vibration feet. I went Hi-Fi 2000 due to the cooling options. Note the drilled base to mount boards on and while not pictured, I opted for a fully vented top cover.

I added a cavity in rear of panel to move the LCD closer to the face of front panel. Andrea also drilled and tapped holes for mounting the LCD and they are spot on. Machining and finish are high quality. Andrea was very helpful to work with. (Good thing I didn't flirt or ask for pics cause I learned Andrea is a guys name in Italy). I can only hope to do as well mounting the Arduino control board. The opening around the LCD is chamfered. No ink fill of lettering as they only use black ink, which is not much use on a black face plate. We shall see how I do with the front panel paint fill of lettering and Twisted Pear logo like ModWright did on his optional Black/Blue SWL/SWLP faceplates.

Lots of work to do!


78012 78013 78014
78015 78016 78011

[ESavinon]

Looking good!

[agfrost]

That's hot.

[FTGV]

So ya done yet?:lol:

They did a real nice job of anodizing and machining that front panel.

[SCompRacer]

Are we there yet? NO!:cheesygrin: I wish..... I was gonna pack it up and send it to you for final assembly.:smile:

Thanks for the kind words. Yes they did a great job. Even the spellin' is correct. I'll start drilling and tapping holes in the back of the front panel this weekend to mount the Arduino board/shield and IR receiver. Must remember to use depth stop on drill press......

I ordered a chunk of aluminum angle to mount the toroidal farm on. One problem, on back panel (painted steel) they punched out for an IEC socket and it is right in line where my tranny mount will sit (like 15'' / 381mm long...lol). Might have to patch and relocate the IEC line filter/fuse/switch assembly I am using. It is near 3" long.

[FTGV]

... I was gonna pack it up and send it to you for final assembly.:smile:

No problem and I'll even give it the requisite year long burn to save you the trouble.:smile:

[schwarcw]

Damn that looks good! You have a really nice Pear!:twisted:

[SCompRacer]

Thanks Carl!

I am making some progress.....I've moved the two small power supplies since this pic, but the config is similar. I hope to have Dana do the front panel color fill this weekend.:cheesygrin:

78386

[Keiko]

Damn that looks good! You have a really nice Pear!:twisted:

Have you thought about going vegan, Carl? :lol:

78396

[schwarcw]

Have you thought about going vegan, Carl? :lol:

78396

LOL!

Too funny! Merry Christmas to you and Janey!

Regards,

[schwarcw]

Thanks Carl!

I am making some progress.....I've moved the two small power supplies since this pic, but the config is similar. I hope to have Dana do the front panel color fill this weekend.:cheesygrin:

78386

WOW!

That build looks terrific! I am looking forward to seeing and hearing the finished product!

[Keiko]

LOL!

Too funny! Merry Christmas to you and Janey!

Regards,

Merry Christmas to you and yours also, Carl.

[SCompRacer]

I am happy to say I am mostly finished with my Twisted Pear Buffalo III dual mono build! I had to take an existing light picture of the front panel in an attempt to show what it looks like in real life. The flash tends to really lighten the color fill in the front panel engraving.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/pesante_0.jpg

I am waiting for an Amanero USB/I2S module, and Digi Key mis-packaged the incorrect value resistors for the AES/EBU input. The USB input is just a hole stuffer for now. I plan to redo the rear panel labeling when I install the USB module. I am thinking up high near the Teleporter to keep the I2S wires short. An OTTO II for switching between the two could be added. I tried to think modular in that the rear panel, front panel and toroidal farm can be easily removed if the need arises.

I drilled and tapped holes in the front panel to mount the Arduino board (pictured with Corpius's shield) and IR receiver board. I also drilled a cavity for the IR receiver to get it closer to the face of front panel and give me greater off axis remote control. Somehow I removed that cavity during the numerous changes made to the design in front panel express. It would have been nice to have more or all of that work done by the CNC machine. I was unsure of where the Arduino would be mounted until I had a roughed in assembly.

I am glad I went with the Hi Fi 2000 drilled base option. It made assembly easy and really stiffened up the chassis. After getting the components positioned and wired, I added the "walls" of the enclosure. My heavy toroidal farm wouldn't do well installed on just the lower panel. A big plus, at least two holes of every board lined up with pre-drilled holes in the base. Andrea at Modushop was very helpful and nice to deal with while I was finalizing the front panel machining.

Due to my inside out assembly procedure and the toroidal farm blocking access, I stud mounted the front panel. There is just enough room to swing a small box-open end wrench to tighten the nuts, although getting a washer and nut on is tricky. A short USB cable is connected to a Neutrik D panel USB connector at right front side of enclosure so the Arduino can be programmed without removing the cover.

You might notice two holes drilled in the rotary encoder knob cavity. This was a last minute addition for a future project. Even though my LCD will display 'lock,' I'll add LED's for lock and mute behind the knob like I saw some folks do. I'll get a different color for mute and use my original green one for the lock.

The Testors paint fill of the front panel went well. They didn't have the exact shade of green to match the Twisted Pear logo, se we mixed some white in to lighten it. I went with Testors as ModWright used it and it still looks good after a few years. It is very hard to stay "in the lines" of the engraving with the color fill even with a tiny artists brush. I found a new bondo spreader used as a squeegee moved most of the excess paint to an area where it could be wiped off the panel without removing paint from the engraved areas. After allowing the color to set a few minutes, I used cotton swaps moistened with thinner to get the smeared paint off. It leaves a film that can be easily removed once the paint dries. I followed up with an old dish towel wrapped tightly around the spreader moistened with thinner. It was a smooth tightly woven towel (not fuzzy). The plastic spreader did no harm to the front panel.

The toroidal farm mount is thick 1/4" (6.35mm) aluminum. It started out as a 4" x 4" angle I cut down to 4" x 1.75." The cut edge and radisued corners were smoothed with a DA (double action) sander. I drilled and tapped threads in the mount to make it easy to install to the base. I couldn't locate any rubber grommets for that thickness material to insulate the wire pass through holes. A trip to the local Ace Hardware for some metric screws got me looking thought their hardware offerings and I found some snap in plastic bushings. They had an assortment of small to larger sizes. I used 3/8" (9.5mm) for the secondary wiring and 1/2" (12.7mm) for the mains power. They were 3/8" (9.5mm) long so they extend through the thick transformer bracket.

Some folks have asked me why so many toroidals. Well I had the Twisted Pear LCDPS and LCDPS linear power supplies from early testing with the single BIII build. (Sounded better to me with the shunting power supplies). I used the + side of the LCBPS to power the Arduino/LCD. One side of the LCDPS powers the Sidecar/4 channel input board and the other side powers Teleporter and future USB module. I could lose one 9v tranny and split the secondaries on the remaining one to power the two Placid HD's, but then I lose galvanic isolaton beyween those two supplies. It was so quiet even with the rats nest wiring in the friendly case that I did not want to risk possibly adding any. The two BP (bi-polar) power supplies require both secondaries for the - and + rails.

78442784437844478449784507845178452784537845478455 7845678457

[schwarcw]

Absolutely stunning DIY effort! WOW! The aesthetics are first class.

Did you sniff any of that paint thinner? LOL! Give the green color a little sparkle LOL!

Great job Rich!

[Keiko]

That green matches your night vision goggles, Carl. :wink:

Awesome job, Rich! Now give it to me and build yourself one. :mrgreen:

[SCompRacer]

Thanks Carl and Mike!

LOL I had a straw and deep inhaled Carl! Enamel gives a better buzz than latex water based! (Actually the Testors thinner stinks awful, mineral spirits are more better). Ed gets the assist for pushing me into this dual build.

Mike, the shipping would break us, its too heavy! (And no tubes).:eek::cheesygrin:

Some of my buds are beating me up about the blue LCD so a green one will be added sooner than later.

[chumlie]

WOW just WOW !!! Beautiful job.

[SCompRacer]

Thanks Chumlie!

I have a green with negative backlight on order. Like $12 to get rid of the clash.:cheesygrin: It will be a drop in swap.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/LCD-Display-HD44780-4x20-chr-20x4-Green-neg-Backlight-/24/!BlCNr8w!2k~$(KGrHqUH-CEEtOGZZ+BzBL,BOd)Zcw~~_12.JPG

[chumlie]

Much better with the green.

[Keiko]

Thanks Carl and Mike!

LOL I had a straw and deep inhaled Carl! Enamel gives a better buzz than latex water based! (Actually the Testors thinner stinks awful, mineral spirits are more better). Ed gets the assist for pushing me into this dual build.

Mike, the shipping would break us, its too heavy! (And no tubes).:eek::cheesygrin:

Some of my buds are beating me up about the blue LCD so a green one will be added sooner than later.

No tubes and no catalog? Keep it! :neutral: :wink:

[Lasareath]

WOW everything looks Great!

Can you make the display out of Nixie Tubes?

78498

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-DIGITS-IN-12-NIXIE-TUBE-CLOCK-WEB-COUNTER-2-ALARMS-/250939455334?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item3a6d283766




Thanks Chumlie!

I have a green with negative backlight on order. Like $12 to get rid of the clash.:cheesygrin: It will be a drop in swap.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/LCD-Display-HD44780-4x20-chr-20x4-Green-neg-Backlight-/24/!BlCNr8w!2k~$(KGrHqUH-CEEtOGZZ+BzBL,BOd)Zcw~~_12.JPG

[EndersShadow]

WOW everything looks Great!

Can you make the display out of Nixie Tubes?

78498
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-DIGITS-IN-12-NIXIE-TUBE-CLOCK-WEB-COUNTER-2-ALARMS-/250939455334?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item3a6d283766

I soo need one of these for work.... Just because I need tubes somewhere lol....

[strider]

Top notch, Rich!

Really digging the transformer set up/wiring. Very nicely executed; that would have been a perfect scenario for a rat's nest. Any reason to be concerned about noise or hum from the torroids with them so close together?

[Amherst]

Incredible....Absolutely Incredible work and execution.

Congratulations!

Now it's complete......Enjoy the Music!

[SCompRacer]

No tubes and no catalog? Keep it! :neutral: :wink:

Mike, you know what they say, if it has tubes or boobs sooner or later.....:cheesygrin:




Can you make the display out of Nixie Tubes?



Thanks Sal. You probably could make it work, but a 4x20 character display with those is way beyond my programming skillz.

[SCompRacer]

Really digging the transformer set up/wiring.....

Thanks Ben. In regards to the toroidals, this is the layout I had in the friendly case and it worked fine; no hiss, buzz or hum, with 1/8" between them. IIRC I had asked Fred and he said I should be OK too. The wiring in that thin case was far more of a rats nest than this one with mains mixed/or near secondary wiring. I strived to keep AC wiring 1/2" from chassis where possible. It passes my full volume with no music playing test.

I've seen some Buffalo builds where they actually stacked toroidals. They claim Avel gave their blessing to stacking saying it was OK.

I used Teflon insulated wire to extend the secondary wiring and maintained color code. (Teflon doesn't shrink back when heated). I used red zip ties to ID the 30VA tranny wiring and blue ties for the 15VA's. All AC wiring is twisted. Extension splices soldered and shrink tubed, all connection ends tinned. Mains power enters through a Shurter filter/fused/switch IEC module. I also used Teflon insulated wire to connect power supplies to boards and tinned the ends.





Now it's complete......Enjoy the Music!

Thanks! You know I will be! I can actually leave the DAC upstairs now as it has a cover. (We got a nosy cat).

[schwarcw]

Rich, break out the tunes! Spanky and Our Gang, The Association, Blue Cheer, Rick James, some Cher, Barry Manilow, Vanilla Fudge, Moby Grape, Manilli Vanelii the killer sound from these artists will be worth all your hard work! Spank on! :twisted:

[SCompRacer]

Hey Carl! We busted some moves to the KLF too! What Time Is Love? This sounds great at hearing loss levels!:cheesygrin:

Right now......right now.......right now its time to...... kick out the jams m#%*f$##$s! :cheesygrin:

http://youtu.be/28w2LVzxVkU

[Keiko]

Rich, break out the tunes! Spanky and Our Gang, The Association, Blue Cheer, Rick James, some Cher, Barry Manilow, Vanilla Fudge, Moby Grape, Manilli Vanelii the killer sound from these artists will be worth all your hard work! Spank on! :twisted:

I'm Rick James b!tc#! Show me your tt!!! She's a very kinky girl, and I'm a kinky guy. Cocaine's a helluva drug! :twisted:

[Lasareath]

The Milk's gone bad!

[schwarcw]

The Milk's gone bad!

It's the Kool Aid we drank! LOL!

[schwarcw]

Right now......right now.......right now its time to...... kick out the jams m#%*f$##$s! :cheesygrin:

http://youtu.be/28w2LVzxVkU

Rock on wit yo bad self!

[FTGV]

wowThat's what you call raising the bar!Awesome work Rich.

[SCompRacer]

Thanks for the kind words Fred!

Got the green on black LCD today. A drop in swap. Looks much better.

78961

[chumlie]

Damn thats pretty. Much better than the blue. Beautiful job. Whats next ?

[FTGV]

Agreed the green display adds the finishing touch.

[schwarcw]

WOW! The green display is just stunning on the faceplate! Great job Rich.

[Keiko]

That is purdy! Awesome job, Rich.

[SCompRacer]

Thanks again for the kind words.


.....Whats next ?


Well, no USB to I2S module arrived yet. I do get slight gains using I2S over SPDIF coax in (I2S separates clock from data where clock is embedded in SPDIF signal). Also remember that the ESS Sabre DAC chip handles SPDIF differently than other DAC chips (does not rely on embedded clock signal). To expand on I2S, folks at diyaudio have been re-clocking the I2S signal before handing it to the DAC chip(s) for even less jitter and better SQ. I'm gonna wring out all the possibilities and stick with the best one.

Next - next up might be a DIY phono stage. I went with a balanced Class A Krell pre amp with MM/MC phono board as the DAC was designed to run balanced (although single ended ain't bad at all). This means dropping the ModWright SWLP with its incredible phono stage from my line up. The Krell MM/MC stage has some MC noise issues in left channel I am running down, but it also has less MC gain compared to the ModWright resulting in high clock position of volume control for 80-85dB listening levels. That high volume setting seems to leave little headroom, thus dynamics suffer. I'll try an MC head amp to boost phono input into the Krell and hear what happens.

A big thanks to Fred for directing me to the Twisted Pear Buffalo III DAC and all the tips he provided along the way. I ended up here after doing some extensive mods to a Music Hall 25.3 DAC. Even though I read how much power makes a difference in a DAC circuit, once I experienced it building from the ground up was more attractive than putting more money into an existing design. I am also not limited with current input format or sample rates. Hard media via modded CD/SACD player, SPDIF, I2S and native SACD (USB soon), up to 32Bit 384Khz and 6.144Mhz files.

[SCompRacer]

Received my Amanero USB to I2S module today! This started as a temp install in my DAC although it is quiet with no music playing with volume ramped up to full and sounds great with music playing. Temp in that I am not ready to remove and cut a square hole in back panel, so I may leave it as is. I only have a hi-res (24/96) vinyl rip of Bolero on the laptop and vocals of left, right, both, so I need to fix that and do some listening. I am using foobar and ASIO drivers for now.

There are better USB to I2S modules that are isolated, but not many play I2S AND native DSD over USB (not dithered down to PCM) and can cost up to $450. This one cost me $50 on a group buy (60 or more folks required to go in). It isn't isolated but so far quiet with the laptop I am using. I can add isolation using an NVE IL715 but it could add up to 100 picosec of jitter (which is low, as it is one of the better isolators available). A recent firmware addition corrects the DSD R and L channel swap so I won't have to fuss with that in software or digital switching. If I stay with USB to I2S, I'll have to add an OTTO 2 digital switch so I can switch between the Denon or USB input. I'll use a switch to select between them like I do to switch between I2S/DSD out on the Denon, no more coding!

I had installed a Neutrik type A/B USB panel mount connector when I built the DAC. I don't have any USB B connectors here (on the way though) so I cut and spliced a short USB cable but did not connect the USB power wire. This way I can power the Amanero board by one half of a Twisted Pear LCDPS (clean linear power supply) adjusted to 3.3v, not computer power. If I mount the Amanero on rear panel I'll remove the on board voltage regulator......that way a powered USB cable can be connected and not power the module. Lighted magnifier work for me as the regulator is very tiny with SMD's by it.

I used three lengths of small coax to connect the Amanero board to Sidecar. The three coax grounds are all connected to the Sidecar ground pin. That helps shield the I2S signals. I got this coax from some old S Video cables lying around.

[Amherst]

It just gets better....your knowledge and build is stunning :idea:

[tonyb]

It just gets better....your knowledge and build is stunning :idea:

Amen bro....

I think I have a man crush on this guy.:biggrin:

[schwarcw]

Very nice Rich!

If I could only find one like yours on Craigslist! :cool:

[SCompRacer]

Thanks for the kind words!

Carl, there were days I wished I could have found one on Craigslist too.:eek::lol:

Next month, the Krell-der will land, eh? I gotta pull more wires for a second 20 amp circuit and put down a deposit at Com Ed.:eek:

[SCompRacer]

The Amanero USB to I2S module is installed. I opted for inside mounting with short patch cable from a Neutrik panel mount USB connector as I am not sure if this will be the last USB module installed or further modded. The power wire is cut in the USB patch cable; power to the module is supplied from a linear PS set to 3.3v, not the 'putie. Some small coax of different color was used to connect the I2S signals. The shields of the coax are grounded at both ends.

79599 79600

[FTGV]

Very neat as usual.For me atleast I find making little wire harness's as much fun as root canal.

[SCompRacer]

Thanks Fred! I hear you on them small harness connections; I have some time in them. I have crimp pliers for the small gold female contacts and hit them with a dab of solder, just to be sure. Once I'm done messin around, I could just direct solder everything.

[SCompRacer]

Fred, it didn't take long for someone to offer an isolator/reclock board for the Amanero. $25US, bare board. Connect to the BIII ultra low jitter Crystek 100Mhz clock. I've got zero noise but interested in the reclocking the I2S close to home. And I thought I was almost done...:cheesygrin:

79617

[FTGV]

Cool.At least you still have some room left for it. Do you have a linky?

[SCompRacer]

There have been various DIY attempts of synchronous reclocking of the bitclock mod with the Amanero. Some of the few dollar mods were compared to antennas or RF transmitters with broken ground planes when finished but still provided improvements.

http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/reclockbck.jpg

This example is by glt of HiFiDuino.

http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/dsc02495.jpg

A well designed board started here in the Acko DAC thread. Details and BOM to follow.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/147817-ackodac-based-es9018-65.html#post3320259

The GB thread.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/227502-amanero-isolator-reclocker-gb.html#post3320268

AckoDAC web site.
https://sites.google.com/site/ackodac/home

The other alternative is Ian's I2S FIFO solution with reclock board, the ultimate weapon to fight jitter. He has made some neat boards. He also has an interest list going for a better Si570 clock board.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/207438-ian-asynchronous-i2s-s-pdif-fifo-kit-group-buy.html

[FTGV]

Thanks for the links Rich.Looks like some good reading.

[SCompRacer]

You are most welcome Fred.

I2S is better compared to SPDIF but one must remember it was designed as a local digital bus inside a CD player. Smart folks say after a few inches of wire length you start to lose its benefits. LVDS (low Voltage Differential Signaling) is the best way to fly with moving I2S signals over long distances, like with the Twisted Pear Teleporters; one set up to send and one to receive (up to 100 feet IIRC). There is still the issue of recovering the clock. By reclocking at destination, we solve any source or travelling clock issues. I think it is worth a try to hear what happens. I do know that I2S/DSD (CD/SACD) from the modded Denon is outstanding via LVDS. Same with the modded Touch. It would be kewl to get even more bang.

This blog post at HiFiDuino sorts most of the useful info out with pics of Ian's FIFO/reclocker. You Canadians are pretty smart! In hindsight I am thinking this is the direction I should have went.

http://hifiduino.wordpress.com/2012/08/21/ians-fifo-reclocker-and-buffalo-iii-dac/

The BIII default operation is in asynchronous mode generating its own local master clock. There is an asynchronous reclocker in the Sabre32 DAC. To run in synch mode, you need a source of low jitter and need to disable or remove the BIII master clock. Ian (also a Canadian) made a neat clock board for the BIII DAC. Simply remove the clock and attach the FIFO reclocker via U.FL cable to run in synch mode. Remove the U.fl and stick the clock back in for asynch mode. With the Acko board you run the master clock signal to the board and let the Sabre reclocker figure it out. Like a synch/asynch approach?:confused:

http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/asyncmode.jpg?w=595

http://hifiduino.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/syncmode.jpg?w=595

[schwarcw]

I gotta ask, does it sound good? :twisted:

Very nice Rich! I am not at the point where I need something like you've got. It is a beauty. I hope to come out there and see it soon. The Krell is too heavy to bring in my carry on.

[SCompRacer]

Hey Carl! Airport security would take you to that windowless room if you brought that monster with as carry on.:cheesygrin:

I've gone to great lengths to get the best sound out of digital here and it has been worth it. The DAC sounds absolutely wonderful. Dead quiet, highly dynamic, revealing, no background hiss/hum. Of course I could use and welcome another opinion now. Ed preferred the single Buffalo III DAC build over the ModWright 9100ES, but then again he does like that Krell gear?...:eek::cheesygrin: I2S sounds better than SPDIF in; I'll see if it gets even better with the isolator/reclock board for the Amanero USB to I2S module. Folks have been reclocking I2S at destination to get the absolute minimum of jitter for best SQ. Like high end gear, extremely low jitter numbers.

Jay may pop over this weekend.....hopefully I'll have the Krell KSL pre amp main and power supply boards recapped and it will still work.

[thejck]

thanks for posting i enjoyed the read.

[SCompRacer]

I missed this along the way with my build. Back in 2010, Rosendorfer in Kraków had posted at diyaudio his dual mono Buffalo II DAC using a single Legato version 2 I/V board (I/V = current to voltage board). Using two Legato output boards, you get your balanced out from the R and L single ended channel outputs of each board. That puts the fully discrete Legato output through the single ended op amp circuit. Not necessarily bad, but it does change the SQ.

To run with a single output board, you have to combine the individual DAC boards right and left channel outputs, that is R to L and L to R. (Dual mono inverts phase on the opposite channel via jumper or I2C serial control). I borrowed his pics as I failed to take any of my harness. Rather than stack my DAC’s on my Legato version 3 board like he did on his version 2 board, I went with alongside so I could access the SE and balanced null DC pots. I would also have had to change or bend my output header pins down.

Since that post it appears the designer has put his blessing on the dual mono/single Legato build offering some suggestions. Since you double the amperage into the board with two DAC boards attached (from 16 to 32mA) voltage output doubles. To reduce output to 2v, solder a 392R resistor across each pos and neg of the balanced outputs. This will also reduce any increased THD+N added with the increased output.

Instead of removing one bi-polar power supply with the one Legato output board, I removed jumpers from the single board so each channel has its own dedicated power supply now. No SE output for now. I could always add two jumpers and power SE out with one of the two supplies. Along with SE out, I would also gain a headphone out that can drive up to 250mA dynamic phones.

What does fully discrete output do? To me it makes it sound better, richer, fuller. The dual output boards using SE out was like a recipe where all the ingredients tend to stand out; with the single I get full detail but with a smoother blend. I didn’t think I could make it sound any better, but I did. Very happy.

Still to come, waiting for the group buy Amanero isolator and re-clock board.

EDIT: I added board pics of the legato discrete and SE out ballsie circuits.

81154 81153 81152 81156 81157


Thanks thejck!

[SCompRacer]

I installed a Twisted Pear OTTO II 2:1 digital switch in the DAC to switch between USB to I2S input and the Denon I2S/DSD input. It stacks nicely on the Sidecar with a female header and clipped cap leads. The Sidecar is bewteen the 4 channel SPDIF input board and DAC. I just have to do some coding to make it work with the Arduino I2C serial control. I have to add an input and instruct it what to activate. Haven't coded in a while, nightmares will be returning....:eek:

[tonyb]

Rich, you have to stop.....your making me sick with that dac build bro. Whatever it is you do for a living, you should stop and just build dacs. I don't think I've ever seen such quality in a DIY project. Your talent continues to impress, when are we lower level slobs gonna be able to get an ear on this puppy ? I'm waiting for a group get together so I won't be the only one crying in the crowd.:biggrin:

[SCompRacer]

Hey Tony! Thanks for the kind words about my 'beyond retail' adventure.

The wife went and got herself allergic to some ingredients found in most common household items so I am waiting for her to stabilize to the replacement 'safe' products before I host something. I stand by with EpiPen and have that scene from Pulp Fiction memorized.:twisted::biggrin:

[schwarcw]

I stand by with EpiPen and have that scene from Pulp Fiction memorized.:twisted::biggrin:

The DAC looks magnificent! I have to get my ears on it soon. Ed and I intend to invade Chicago for Apoxana and crash at your place. Best place Dana in some safe haven because Ed and I come with some toxic smells and chemicals in our suitcases. We're planning to setup a meth lab in your basement while we listen to that DAC. We need some quick cash so we can have the Scompracer Super DAC in our systems!! We have to carry weapons 'cause we always carry cash.

[schwarcw]

BTW, any idea of the parts count in that beauty? Ir rivals the Krell preamp!!

[SCompRacer]

Thanks Carl! Hey, you should know you could build two or more pres from the parts found in a Krell!:wink:

You and Ed either stay in the same room here or one of you stays with Jasper in his room. That is a locked down unit after lights out so you'd have to share his litter box too.:cheesygrin: As for the meth won't it kill the weed growing down there?:eek::cheesygrin:

[SCompRacer]

Fred, was wondering if I could send you these Acko isolation/reclock boards with parts for the Amanero USB/I2S module. Show me your technique for soldering SMD parts. Video it and put it on you tube. Just do these two......then I'll know how in the future....:cheesygrin: Larger board for the dual Potato chips.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/acko_boards.jpg

[agfrost]

Where'd you get that giant dime from, Rich? :lol:

[FTGV]

.... soldering SMD parts.That looks like some real fun right there Rich.

[dragon1952]

I was making op-amp upgrade boards for a while and having to solder the SMD's on boards smaller than the dime. Talk about "fun" :^ /

[bikerboy]

Rich,
I got a set also! Looks like oven baking is in the works. If I find the solder paste I'll let you know. I don't have much motivation right now due to the great sound I hear with the sdtrans384. I2s and wave files. Computer is used to convert flac to wave. Kind of like making cassette tapes. Ha ha. But sounds way better.

[SCompRacer]

The OT got cut so I'll be more rested and better able to deal with the tiny stuff. I just want simple, so the whole point of this excercise will be to see if isolation/reclocking improves the USB to I2S SQ at present. I have no noise/hiss/hum at full volume with no music playing now with the non-isolated Amanero. My expectation is the BIII clock will be better than the Amanero clocks. I could try just isolation too, but the smart folks say transformer or chip isolation alone adds jitter. Might be good to try it both ways.

The Potato chips are fast and said to handle well above 100Mhz clocks.

[strider]

Rich - How does the Otto work? If I wanted to be able to choose between an S/PDIF input and an I2S input from a USB module what else would I need?

[SCompRacer]

Ben, the OTTO II is a 2:1 Mux that can switch digital output between two four channel inputs. I use it in my DAC to switch between two I2S inputs. I’ve never used it to switch SPDIF but I think Brian at TP did and it worked. The TP diyaudio OTTO II thread.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/216799-introducing-otto2.html

The only issue I can think of for you is input mapping. That is you have up to four channels of output (1A to 4A) plus GND to connect to your DAC board and how does SPDIF and I2S connect to your DAC board inputs. Your inputs on each channel (1B1 - 1B4 / 2B1-2B4) would have to be mapped to proper 1A-4A output.

You just add a jumper and pull up resistor to OTTO II and switch it by applying 4-5v. I tried it without the pull up resistor and switching was delayed. I use a mechanical switch in my Denon 3910 to switch OTTO II between I2S and DSD output. The only restrictions are the signals switched can’t be greater than the voltage used to switch it, which shouldn’t be an issue with I2S/DSD/SPDIF. Details are in the Integration Guide.

http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/community_docs/leonvb-Buffalo_III_DAC_Integration_Guide_V2.0.0.pdf

If using a micro controller (Arduino or equivalent) they can still pass a small voltage (like .009v) when switched low that kept my OTTO II switched on. I had to add a relay on the one in my DAC. No such issue with a mechanical switch.

http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/images/control/otto_layout.jpg

The OTTO II in my DAC connects to a Twisted Pear Sidecar which is between my four channel SPDIF input board and DAC. The Sidecar just has one input and is switched by 5v so I get I2S/DSD input or up to four channels of SPDIF input for a total of six inputs. This was taken before the pull up resistor and relay were added.

http://i417.photobucket.com/albums/pp260/scompracer/Buffalo%20III%20Dual%20Mono%20Build/otto_1.jpg