View Full Version : Sda-2a
11-16-2004, 09:56 AM
I happily picked up some SDA-2A's over the weekend and they're in fantastic condition. Should I be concerned with some bubbling on one of the passive radiators?
They sound great, better so on my tube amp, and for the price WELL worth the trip.
11-16-2004, 10:22 AM
No, don't worry about it.
Start looking for a replacement PR simply for aesthetics.
11-16-2004, 10:25 AM
11-19-2004, 09:11 AM
damn i just sold my PR's from my SDA2b's. Sorry
11-19-2004, 09:14 AM
Thanks for the thought but no worries. :)
11-19-2004, 10:02 AM
Very nice, good grab!
11-19-2004, 10:17 AM
My 1B's have some bubbles, no where near that size but they work fine i assume.. just looks as noted above...
11-19-2004, 10:24 AM
Bubbles are like black mold. Once they start in a spot, they will take over your entire house and everybody living there will die. I happen to be immune (I got my bubble shots years ago) and will be glad to take them off your hands free of charge. See how nice I am? I could even reimburse for shipping after I quarentine them.
Don't sweat the petty. Pet the sweaty.
11-20-2004, 01:36 PM
I like them with the grills on anyway. :)
I had a good buddy come over for some beers last night and I lost count as to how many times he mentioned the SDA's sound HUGE. Lol.
It's been a week since I picked them up and absolutely love them. Now, I just have to keep and eye out for some bigger ones.
11-20-2004, 06:35 PM
Glad to see you're getting your SDA on.
11-21-2004, 03:06 AM
Whacha got driven' 'em... the Dyna?
11-21-2004, 03:02 PM
I have the Musical Fidelity integrated and the Dynaco. With the Dynaco the SDA's sound fantastic.
Your pucker factor is not as high as mine. :-)
I purchased a pair of SDA 2B's off ebay a few months ago. I got them for around $180 including shipping and they work great. The only reason I can tell that they went that cheap is that one of the speakers has a high pucker factor on the PR (see attached photo). Doesn't seem to affect the performance, so I'm a very happy camper. I've thought about trying to remove the outer layer and fixing the bubbles, but if it ain't broke............
11-23-2004, 03:18 AM
This pucker effect is interesting. I'm thinking one could use a heat gun set on low to melt the exsisting glue and then reattach the disc again. If you decide to repair yours, please post the results.
11-23-2004, 03:31 AM
It is interesting... delamination of one or more of the outer layers?
Wonder if Mr Swauger has any poop on the cause and the fix, if any...
EDIT: E-mailed Ken a link to this thread...
11-23-2004, 03:43 AM
Did you ask him about getting the puck out?
11-23-2004, 04:03 AM
As in... "Make like a hockey player..."??? ;)
No, but you just did...
11-23-2004, 10:26 AM
Originally posted by Tour2ma
As in... "Make like a hockey player..."??? ;)
No, but you just did... :D :D :D
Tab, sounds like a great deal. The one you posted looks to be in good shape. How do you like them?
I have had Polk Audio speakers for decades (Monitor 5's and 10's), but this is the first pair of SDA's I have purchased. I liked the SDA 2's so well I purchased a pair of SDA 1B's shortly after. The SDA 1's I purchased do not have the high pucker factor. :-)
F1nut, I had given some thought to your idea of a heat gun only in the form of a hair dryer. The whole disc is coming loose........not in layers..........I'll try to post a photo later.
11-23-2004, 07:06 PM
TAB, roger that.
OK, I got energetic tonight and removed the PR. I took the following photo showing how the disc is peeling off. I might try heating it with a hair dryer to see what happens. Anyone have any suggestions as to what glue I should use once I remove the disc?
11-23-2004, 11:49 PM
Good question, I'm thinking Aleene's Original "Tacky" Glue. I use it for gluing new leather desk tops, etc. It dries clear and stays flexible.
Here is a photo of the PR and the disc after removal. As you can see, there is a triangular portion at the bottom of the PR where the glue wasn't sticking. The disc appears to be distorted, but I was very careful in removing it and I think it will glue back flat......hair dryer works great, btw. I discovered a piece of tape covering the hole in the center of the PR.
11-24-2004, 12:10 AM
Hmmmm......very interesting. Another consideration might be 3M's spray adhesive.
11-24-2004, 01:21 AM
Spray would certainly yield a nice thin layer.
I'd think whatever is used, it had better not instantly bond. Looks like there will be a good deal of smoothing required to get the removed layer flat. No small task given that the surface still in place will be flexing as the smoothing takes place.
On the other hand if it takes too long to set, the edge where you start could split/ pull out of position as you move along. I'm not picturing what you'd use other than the adhesive to hold the removed piece in place once you start, e.g., a clamp.
What about a thin ribbon of the Aleene's in a small arc at the outer edge for starters, brushing on more as you go. Pause this when you get to 90 degrees or so, hit that segment with 3M and continue alternating adhesives to completion.
11-24-2004, 01:49 AM
It's never a good idea to mix adhesives and you don't want any overspray from a product like 3M getting on the rubber surround. Aleene's will provide enough tack to hold it down after rubbing the outer surface (disc) with light pressure from a damp rag. The thing I like about Aleene's is if you don't get it right the first time you can remove the disc fairly easily and start again.
BTW, a thin layer is all that's needed.
11-24-2004, 01:53 AM
Buy a new Peerless PR from Parts Express and forget about that damn thing.
I replaced a PR in a friends SDA's, guessed the weight of the OG PR, pucked the new one....no problem. It may not sweep the same but he was happy.
I'll look for the PR I used and post it later, I'm lazy tonight.
I reglued the thin foam disc back to the PR using contact adhesive...........see attached photos for the before and after shots. As you can see, my pucker factor was greatly reduced. :-)
Closeup: High pucker factor before, pucker free after.
11-24-2004, 07:30 PM
Ah, much better and thanks for posting the results.
11-24-2004, 10:24 PM
Originally posted by TAB
I reglued the thin foam disc back to the PR using contact adhesive...........see attached photos for the before and after shots. As you can see, my pucker factor was greatly reduced. :-) Did not comment before, but what with the use of the term :pucker factor" I assume you are a golfer...
Nice looking job. Still letting it cure? Or have you fired it up?
What "contact adhesive" and any particular technique?
My PR had more of a "pucker" problem than a "bubble" problem. :-)
I used your basic Wally World All Purpose Contact Adhesive........nothing special. I followed the directions.......applied thin coats on both pieces and let them set for 10 minutes or so. Placing the foam disc back on the PR was somewhat tricky, but once you start you're pretty much committed. I just started at one edge and worked my way to the other side making sure I didn't trap any air bubbles along the way. I didn't get it perfectly centered, but close enough for me. From observation, The directions said to let the glue cure for 12 hours before use, but I waited 24 hours before reinstalling the PR and have not used the speakers since. I think the thin foam disc is merely cosmetic. If I am not correct, would someone please tell me otherwise.
11-24-2004, 11:57 PM
Your now depuckered puck is a weight of sorts. The thickness helps dial in the right frequency response and speed.
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