SDA SRS 1.2TL Side Panel Removal

[DarqueKnight]

The method of attachment for the SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels has been somewhat of a mystery. One owner said that it took him a whole week to figure it out, but he would not tell us how to do it unless we sent him a special request. Some owners, for fear of breaking something, will not venture an investigation.

While it is commonly thought that the SRS side panels are glued on (like the smaller SDA 1C and SDA 2B), they are actually held in place by trelocks similar to the ones that hold the grille panels in place. The side panel trelocks are different in that they are ribbed and fit much tighter. I used a 1-1/2 inch metal putty spatula to gently pry off the side panel.

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_1_thumb.jpg

Enlarge (http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_1_big.jpg)

Figure 1. Side view of SDA SRS 1.2TL.

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_2_thumb.jpg

Enlarge (http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_2_big.jpg)

Figure 2. SDA SRS 1.2TL with side panel off.

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_4_thumb.jpg

Enlarge (http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_4_big.jpg)

Figure 3. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel trelocks.

The SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels are held in place with eight ribbed trelocks.

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_5_thumb.jpg

Enlarge (http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_5_big.jpg)

Figure 4. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel front.

The wood strip is oak veneer over MDF. The side panel frame is a composite wood material like the grille frame. The side panel fabric is stretched over the frame and then the wood strip is laid over the fabric and set into a notch in the frame. The wood strip is secured with nails from the back side.

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_6_thumb.jpg

Enlarge (http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_6_big.jpg)

Figure 5. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.

I do not know the reason for the rectangular cutouts in the side panel frame. This makes the side panel fabric more vulnerable to damage. Perhaps there is some sonic benefit. Perhaps it was a weight saving measure. The panels weigh 11.5 pounds each.

http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_7_thumb.jpg

Enlarge (http://www.polkaudio.com/images/showcase/199_7_big.jpg)

Figure 6. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.

The wood strip insert on the front is held in place by tiny finishing nails (arrows). There are countersunk screw holes near the nails, but they are not used. Cost saving perhaps? Maybe Polk originally used screws but switched to nails. If you ever have to or want to replace the side panel fabric, it will be a lot of fun prying off those nailed up wood strips!

[bikezappa]

Excellent post!

The details explained.

Why did you do this?

Are you going to replace the side fabric?

Those cuts outs on the side panel are funny. Saving weight? I don't think so.

Peter

[BlueMDPicker]

Thanks Raife - you're the best!

[F1nut]

Very interesting. Raife, do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by bikezappa
Why did you do this? Are you going to replace the side fabric?


A forum member recently asked me about the removal procedure for the 1.2TL side panels.

I considered replacing the side fabric when I was modifying my 1.2TL's. I decided against it because it really was not necessary. Another factor was that I did not want to risk damaging the nailed on wood strips during removal.


Originally posted by F1nit
....do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?

No. See if the side panel will separate from the cabinet a little bit by using finger pressure alone. If it does, it is probably attached with trelocks. I would be surprised if the 2.3TL attachment system is different from the 1.2TL, but then again, considering all the SDA variations, I wouldn't be too surprised if it was different.

[SDA SRS 1.2]

Raife, you are a BRAVE man! Great photos - Thanks! :)

Robbie

[trubluluc]

As always, excellant technical insight into the "holy grail" of speakers.

-Luc

[dorokusai]

Great post.

The SDA1C panel removal and/ or replacement is not for the faint of heart. It's a little tricky but not "difficult".

You would be suprised to find out that the side panels on the lesser models is basically cardboard....though there may be a fancy name for it.

I have "repaired" all of the panels on my 1C's due to the "bowing" of the ends which is common.

The process for replacing the SDA1C panels would be:

Remove the side panel with a METAL putty knife, by prying along the side slowly, and downwards. Working from top to bottom. Most of the Polk glue was used in the middle, so have a putty knife with some length.

You will eventually have a loose panel, with residual glue on both the panel and the speaker. This should be removed from both.

It's OLD glue so don't be afraid to be rough. I found it a little difficult to remove until I had enough beer in me. It will be covered again so don't worry about small scratches in the speakers' side veneer.

Once you have removed the old glue, clean the surface with a damp cloth, and let dry. There really is no need to prep the surface as the removal of the old glue will mar the surface quite sufficiently.

If you are replacing the cloth on the sides, that's up to you, but at least check for loose spots, and re-attach with hot glue, and your finger. You need to smooth it out. Don't let the glue bead, as it will affect re-attachment of the panel.

I used "Liquid Nails for Paneling" for re-attachment. Use common sense, don't overdo it with the glue as you will find it impossible to remove any adhesive from the cloth if you mess up.

Attach one at a time, and rest a GENEROUS amount of weight on both ends, each side and the center, overnight until it has cured. This is a two day process....get me?

This is what I did to mine, sorry no pictures, but I'm sure it's enough for you intellectual types.

[BlueMDPicker]

Originally posted by DarqueKnight
A forum member recently asked me about the removal procedure for the 1.2TL side panels.

I considered replacing the side fabric when I was modifying my 1.2TL's. I decided against it because it really was not necessary. Another factor was that I did not want to risk damaging the nailed on wood strips during removal.

Emboldened by the knowledge you've shared, I popped the side panels off my SDA SRS's this evening. When I replace the grille cloth (I'm ordering the Ponte you used as well), I'm now going to replace all the fabric. I took my Dremel to a couple of the nail heads and ground them right off in less than 5 minutes, so I don't think it will be too hard to remove the strips. I'll use the headless nails as guides and reattach the strips with countersunk screws.

Of course, one thing leads to another. I may as well refinish the walnut strips and end caps while I have the cabinets stripped. I've already replaced the tweeters and, again thanks to what you've shared here previously, have the new crossover caps (Solen PB's), resistors (Mills MR-12's) and Vampire binding posts headed this way from Parts Connexion. In a couple of weeks, I'll have a better than new pair of SDA SRS's for a total expenditure of slightly less than $1700. Thanks again to you, and everyone here, for sharing their knowledge.

Mike

[hoosier21]

Originally posted by F1nut
Very interesting. Raife, do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?

A buddy here at work got a pair of 2.3tl from me, he is in the middle of redoing the cloth, we removed the side panel, I was expecting the same as the pictures Raife posted, but I was wrong. The side panels of glued on just like the 1Cs and 2Bs.

[hoosier21]

Also, "solid hardwood tops", nope

[hoosier21]

oops here it is

[WilliamM2]

I also had to glue the side panels back on my SDA-1C's. It's a design flaw in my opinion, the glue would stick forever if they had not put the vinyl veneer on the sides underneath, and just glued wood to wood.

I used liquid nails to reglue, but even that says it is NOT for use on vinyl. Wonder how long it will last? I thought about peeling a section of the vinyl off underneath for a better bond, but laziness won out, and I skipped it.

[F1nut]

Thanks for the pic and info. It's as I quessed, glued on.

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by hoosier21
Also, "solid hardwood tops", nope
The original SDA SRS had solid oak (or walnut) end caps made of laminated boards that were prone to cracking along the lamination seams. The bottom end caps were particularly prone to cracking.

The picture below shows the inside edge of my left SRS speaker. You can see the differences in edge grain patterns along the side. These caps were made of five narrow laminated boards. The arrow points to a crack that was filled in with wood filler. The crack only went about two inches inward across the top of the cap.

[DarqueKnight]

After all the problems with cracking top and bottom caps of the SDA SRS, Polk started making end caps out of a solid MDF panel that was veneered on both sides and edge banded.

The picture below is of the inside edge of my left SDA SRS 1.2TL speaker. Notice the long continuous grain pattern along the side and front.

[DarqueKnight]

The top and bottom end caps are easily removed after accessing the retaining nuts by removing the top two drivers and passive radiator.

[DarqueKnight]

The picture below shows the underside of a SDA SRS 1.2TL top cap and the retaining nuts and washers.

[michael_w]

Thanks for sharing it with us. Its always cool to see how brand name speakers are made.

[DarqueKnight]

I'm thinking about having some glossy black lacquer end caps and side panels made. The end result would look similar to this:

[Lasareath]

I'm thinking about having some glossy black lacquer end caps and side panels made. The end result would look similar to this:

Raife,

Did you ever get this done?, I was just thinking the same thing. I have cats and I'm not sure if I want to redo the grille material.

I just took the left panel off the left speaker and it says 4/24/89

Las

[DarqueKnight]

Not yet.

[DarqueKnight]

Not yet. It's on my ever increasing "to do" list.

[Deadof_knight]

Oh man redoing the side panels to glossy black laquer SWWWEETT!! That is going to be THE MOD for ME yes..... The picture of those Mirages OH yea make the 1.2 tls to look very simular. I think they need to be in the tasteful babes thread !

One small problem I really need to be home to do it .....

Think about it the tops sides and bottoms are all now glossy black !!!

Beautiful !!!

[Lasareath]

Not yet. It's on my ever increasing "to do" list.

I was thinking about contacting a custom wood working shop and have them make up new side panels and new tops and bottoms out of some exotic wood.

Like Cocobola Rosewood or some other exotic wood as found @ this page:

http://www.edromanguitars.com/newsite/customshop/wood/main.htm

Las

[F1nut]

The originals are veneer over MDF. If you plan on having new pieces made I would suggest going the veneer over MDF route as it's considerably more stable.

[Lasareath]

The originals are veneer over MDF. If you plan on having new pieces made I would suggest going the veneer over MDF route as it's considerably more stable.

Yeah, I think it's going on my list to do too. Right now I want to concentrate on getting rdo0198's, I need 3 mid-bass driver because two have pushed in cones and one has a tear in the surround.

Today I am working on the grille materials on the side panels. Should I add some sort of glue when I put them back on?, like maybe gorilla glue?

Also, Can I sand down the veneer that's on the top, bottom and side wood pieces?

I woudl love to get rid of this walnut color and get the true wood color. Anybody have any thoughts about this?

TIA,

Lasareath

[F1nut]

What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it.

Glue what, the cloth to the panels or the the panels to the case? Either way, don't use Gorilla glue, awful stuff.

Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.

[Lasareath]

What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it.

Glue what, the cloth to the panels or the the panels to the case? Either way, don't use Gorilla glue, awful stuff.

Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.

I like the color of my 1C's, they are blond in color, they look very nice.

I dont like this 19 year old drab walnut color.

should I apply a small drop of glue to the trelocks?

there looks like there was some when they originally built the speakers.

Las

[Lasareath]

What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it. Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.

I took the top plate off the right one and sanded down the underside and I think it looks really good. It's nice and blond. I can put a coating of varnish on it and I think agaisnt the black grille material it will look very sweet.

My other reason for sanding is that each top plate has a little nick on them and one of the side wood strips had a big stratch in it.

Las

[F1nut]

AGH!!!

Walnut is not a blond wood to start with, more of a light chocolate brown that if left to age on it's owns turns a very nice, rich and warm nutty brown and sometimes gains a reddish tone. In fact, with age it can be difficult to tell the difference between walnut and mahogany.

Anyway, since you're hell bent on changing the color, use paint stripper to remove the exsisting finish and as a side effect, remove the stain (color) too. Sanding should be avoided at all cost, especially when dealing with veneer. Sanding will not remove the nick or scratch without cutting thru to the MDF. You want to fill those areas after stripping, lightly sand flush and then apply the top coat. If you use a wiping finish the results will look much better than brushing. You can thin an oil varnish 50/50 with paint thinner to make it a wiping finish, but you'll have to apply at least 3 coats to gain any build. After it cures for a few weeks, rub it out with 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain, then lightly buff with a soft cotton cloth.

[Lasareath]

Oh man redoing the side panels to glossy black laquer SWWWEETT!! That is going to be THE MOD for ME yes..... The picture of those Mirages OH yea make the 1.2 tls to look very simular. I think they need to be in the tasteful babes thread !

One small problem I really need to be home to do it .....

Think about it the tops sides and bottoms are all now glossy black !!!

Beautiful !!!

Well, I was talking to an old friend who is a cabinet maker/wood worker and he said he will do it for me for free!, I just have to buy the materials.

He has my top plates and bottom plates now and he said he already started with some coats of black on them.

We are buying MDF and are going to make the side panels out of it and we may also inset a strip of oak.

He tells me that with the two diffrent types of wood that the contrast will be diffrent and that it will look like it did originally except that it will be all black lacquer.

I will post pics once they are all done. :)

[Lasareath]

AGH!!! Sanding should be avoided at all cost

Yes, I got yelled at by my friend for sanding the tops, :(

I left his shop yesterday with 1 test side panel and it fits very nicely, we are trying to get together this tuesday and try to finish off the other 3. Then we will start painting the panels.

When I opened the left speaker I got a surprise: http://38.161.195.8/My-Surprise.jpg

Here are two pics of what the 1.2's look like now while they are waiting for their new panels.

The new RDO0198's are in those boxes that you see ontop of the left one:

http://38.161.195.8/Left-SDA-SRS-1.2TL.jpg

http://38.161.195.8/Right-SDA-SRS-1.2TL.jpg

Las

[george daniel]

don't seal that cat up in the speakers. :) :D

[Lasareath]

don't seal that cat up in the speakers. :) :D

LOL, no I won't, the cat in the left picture is Houdini, He's Fierce!, He has his own website! http://www.MyHoudini.com

I had the speakers turned towards the wall so that the cats won't make a home of them. As soon as i turned them out to take the pics the cats showed up to investigate!

[DarqueKnight]

The cats are just waiting for you to put the grilles back on. I'm sure they are thrilled about the large scratching posts you bought them (with secret compartments).

[engtaz]

ouch ouch ouch

[Lasareath]

The cats are just waiting for you to put the grilles back on. I'm sure they are thrilled about the large scratching posts you bought them (with secret compartments).

Yep, LOL

I usually keep my grills off, my 1C grilles are in a closet. I like showing off the drivers ;)

[Lasareath]

Well, I finally got some time and took all the new wood to my Parent's house today and my Dad helped me cut down the 4 tops and bottoms for my 1.2's and we ripped down the 4 side panel inserts.

Now all I have to do is cut the rounded off corners from the 4 tops and bottoms, Sand and then Varnish everything.

This African Padauk wood is some crazy ****, everything in my Dad's garage is Orange. The saw dust is a deep orange, and it stains your clothes and shoes.

Sal

[woofiepaws]

Wow. That's nice stuff. Where did you end up buying the wood from?

[Lasareath]

Wow. That's nice stuff. Where did you end up buying the wood from?

Thanks, yea it's got a really nice color to it.

http://stores.ebay.com/Cook-Woods_Padauk_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ5064156QQftidZ 2QQtZkm

[F1nut]

Sal, that'll look nice.

[strider]

Those things are getting the treatment they deserve. Looks great!

[woofiepaws]

The buginga wood from Cook's looks really cool. Maybe I'll re-do my SRSs.

Has anyone ever taken the side panals off SRSs??? Not the 1.2s, rather the older ones?

[Lasareath]

The buginga wood from Cook's looks really cool. Maybe I'll re-do my SRSs.

Has anyone ever taken the side panals off SRSs??? Not the 1.2s, rather the older ones?

The SRS 2's are a pain to remove because they are glued on.

[Lasareath]

Sal, that'll look nice.

Thanks Jesse, I have to do some sanding this weekend. I am having the 4 side panels re-done with new material and they will be ready on monday.

I have to find 1/2" or 5/8" brads this weekend for the side strips. The smallest the upholestry shop had was 3/4" and those would penetrate the side strips.

Sal

[F1nut]

Lowes, Home Depot or Ace will have the brads you're looking for.

[woofiepaws]

What about the orginal SRSs?

I can slide a piece of paper between the side panals and the cabinet. There seem to be 4 pairs of attachments. A flashlight is just barely visible from front to back. Maybe I'll try t oget them off tomorrow.

[Lasareath]

Cool, I will go tomorrow morning. The original side strips had a bead of glue as well,

What type of glue would you suggest?, The African Padauk is harder than mahogany.

I was going to get liquid nails, and put one long continuous bead behind the insert strip and then clamp it and shoot some brads in it and cross my fingers.

Sal

[Lasareath]

What about the orginal SRSs?

The original SRS's are the same as the 1.2's, look at the first couple pics in this post, that's what yours look like as well.

I used a 1.5" metal putty knife to pry my fingers under the side panel and then I worked my fingers under the panel all the way down untill it's all off.

The side panel is very flexible, so don't worry about snaping it.

[Lasareath]

The buginga wood from Cook's looks really cool. Maybe I'll re-do my SRSs.

Hey Everyone, check out my Photo Album, I worked on the Side strips today. They look AWESOME!!!!!

http://www.polksrs.com/tinc?key=SE0HzYx6&fs_settings=1,0,1,10,960,888

http://38.161.195.8/African_Padauk_Side_Strips_for_my_POLK_SRS_1.2TL's- (13).JPG

[F1nut]

Sal, did the original strips have brads in them? Anyway, liquid nails will do the job.

[Lasareath]

Sal, did the original strips have brads in them? Anyway, liquid nails will do the job.

Yes, the originals have around 20 brads in each strip and one wavy bead of some type of glue.

But, I have read that the African Padauk at thin dimensions will crack when screws or brads are driven into it.

On Monday I am going to the Upholestry shop and we will test a spare piece with 1/2" & 5/8" brads. If it does not split then I may use the glue and the brads.

I have like 5 or 6 c-clamps, so I can do 2 panels @ a time. So by Wednesday I may be all done ;)

What do you think about putting some sort of metal strap on the bottom side of the bottom plates?

I just want to give the bottom plates a little more rigidity. I guess I can router out a channel 90 degress agaisnt the grain and insert another piece of wood or a strap of metal.

Or do you think it's just overkill since this is a solid piece of wood and I have no intensions of having them sit in a flooded basement?

Thanks,

Sal

[F1nut]

Hmmmm...odd looking brads, they have flat tips.

As I've stated before, I don't recommend nails or screws in wood, glue is always best. You may find the Padauk doesn't crack/split during your test and that wouldn't surprise me. The real concern is down the road. As the original panels are veneer over particleboard, cracking/splitting isn't a concern as particleboard doesn't move like solid wood.

I would use the liquid nails and clamp/weight the pieces. Since you only have C clamps, make sure you use a block of wood of the face side of the board, so the clamps don't mark the surface. For the rest of the board where you don't have clamps, use heavy weights to hold the wood down.


Or do you think it's just overkill since this is a solid piece of wood and I have no intensions of having them sit in a flooded basement

It's overkill. Once the wood end caps are glued to the cabinet, they aren't going anywhere.

[Lasareath]

Hmmmm...odd looking brads, they have flat tips.

They are not the tips, those are the heads. I ripped the strip off, the heads came right through the side panels.


It's overkill. Once the wood end caps are glued to the cabinet, they aren't going anywhere.

I'm planning on securing the end caps the same way as Polk did, with hanger bolts. I am not using glue.

[Lasareath]

Here's some more pics of the work I did today. All of the pics I took are on my 1.2TL photo album link on my sig.

I did coat 6 on the side strips today. They look amazing!!!

I cut the corners of the top & bottom plates, I clamped all 4 pieces together and sanded down all the edges with 80 grit paper, then 120. By clamping them all together I was able to insure that all 4 are exactly the same size.

Then I did each one with 220 sand paper. I did 2 coats of Varnish so far with sanding inbetween each coat.

I'm very tired, the top & bottom plates need at least 2 more coats of varnish, I will get to them as soon as I get some free time.

[Bill Ayotte]

Dem der sum purty wuud pieces......

[Lasareath]

Dem der sum purty wuud pieces......

They better be, my entire body was orange today. I went to the front of my house to throw away some garbage and 3 young chicks looked at me and starting laughing!, They said "Did you paint yourself?" and I said "Yeah!, Do you like the color?"

LOL

[F1nut]

Ah yes, got it.


LOL......that's what happens when you get old like me, you forget which model of SDA speakers we're talking about. You're 100% correct, no glue, just bolts.


Looking good!!!

[Bill Ayotte]

Nice....Nothing like the fake tan! Haha...:D

[Lasareath]

Looking good!!!

Thanks!!!

I really wanted to finish today but I was exhausted. I was outside from 10:30am to 8pm working on this wood and it was really hot today.

Tomorrow I am picking up the side panels from the upholestry shop and I will take pics before I attempt to glue in the side strips.

I never used liquid nails in my life and I'm concerned that with the vibrations that in time the side strips will come loose.

The guy who owns the upholestry shop is willing for me to try out 1/2" & 5/8" brads using his guns but I'm concerned that even if the test strip does not crack, it doesn't mean that I may get one unlucky brad that cracks one of the side strips that took so much work.

I'm just have to trust the speaker gods and hope that they keep the strips stuck in place with just the liquid nails ;)

Sal

[F1nut]

Not to worry, liquid nails has an tenacious grip.

[engtaz]

Very very nice. and purdy too.

[Lasareath]

I picked up one panel from the upholestry shop today, they were a little confused. instead of stapling the material inside of the side strip channel they went right over it and the material was taught. So, I had the guy cut the material inside the strip and then staple it down. it worked out fine.

Here's one of the new side strips just placed inside the channel just before I glued it in. I should get a really good hold with the liquid nails, you can see the Liquid Nails coming through these existing holes in the side panels.

Tommorrow I am going to pick up the other 3 panels and then sometime next week I will be doing another 2 to 4 coats of varnish on the top and bottom plates.

Las

[MillerLiteScott]

This is how I glued and held my side panels in place on my SDA 2B's.

[Lasareath]

This is how I glued and held my side panels in place on my SDA 2B's.

Very Nice Scott, the 1.2tl's are a little different, the side panels attach with 8 white tre-locks. you can see them in one of the pics.

Sal

[Lasareath]

Here's the 1st finished side panel. I think they look AWESOME!!!!!!

I'm sorry if I am over Joyous, but please take a look at the thumbnails below, the first one is how they looked when I picked them up :(, oh so depressing!

[engtaz]

Very nice looking. Congrats.

[woofiepaws]

Man those look nice. Just the right amount of color amidst all the black boxes!

[Polk65]

That's an awesome transmogrification. There is nothing like the pleasure of being able to see your hard work. Well maybe listening to it at the same time. :D

[Lasareath]

Thanks Guys!,

The scary part comes next week when i need to drill holes into the top and bottom plates so that I can screw in the hanger bolts and the leveling feet. :eek:

[Lasareath]

Well here they are!

http://38.161.195.8/img_0022.jpg

They look a little strange to me. I had the side panels off for 4 months and I was so used to the top plates being larger than the sides. There was a 3/4" overhang before and now I think I miss that overhang a little.

Plus, I think that they would look better with a thicker top plate. I may keep a look out for a block of African Padauk that's 1.5" thick, it may look pretty nice with a double thick top plate.

Las

[Bill Ayotte]

Man, those are BEAUTIFUL! A 1.75" top plate would be interesting to see, but they are straight up awesome as is to be honest....

[engtaz]

Snap, Those look Hot. Great job. Congrats

[F1nut]

Sal, they look fantastic! I really mean that and if you change the thickness, I'm going to have to hurt you. :D

[MillerLiteScott]

They look awesome. Great Job.

[george daniel]

They look great,,a real "labor of love":)

[Lasareath]

Thank you All!, I'm very happy with them!

And I would do it again when I get my 2nd pair! ;)

Sal

[DarqueKnight]

Excellent!

[Lasareath]

Excellent!

Thanks DarqueKnight, They are all DONE now, Thank God!

[hearingimpared]

Damn fine work son!!! Damn fine!

Now to buckle down and get the sound right.

Just a thought; wouldn't making the top plate thicker change the sound?

[Lasareath]

Just a thought; wouldn't making the top plate thicker change the sound?

I was thinking it would be nice to make the top plates out of solid steel. then that would keep the speakers from moving and/or vibrating.

[Lasareath]

Damn fine work son!!! Damn fine!

Thanks Joe, BTW I got the speakers 4" from the rear wall. I think the bass is louder, I need to test it.

[engtaz]

That is excellent work. Congrats. Are you going to do a video with before and after. one part shame (cat scratch fever) other part hugging you speakers. LOL Purdy speakers you have there.

[Lasareath]

That is excellent work. Congrats. Are you going to do a video with before and after. one part shame (cat scratch fever) other part hugging you speakers. LOL Purdy speakers you have there.

That's a Great idea but very hard to do, I don't think I have a Video of them in their full shame gear on ;)

[engtaz]

just piece together photos and film them or video the images on your computer as closeups. them video yourself (head bowed and shaking your head back and forth maybe put a tear in for sympathy)

[hearingimpared]

I was thinking it would be nice to make the top plates out of solid steel. then that would keep the speakers from moving and/or vibrating.

Why not just go with a lead center encased in whatever. Phil's AAD's inner cabinets are lead lined.

[bikezappa]

Quality work Lasareath!

[Lasareath]

Now to buckle down and get the sound right.


Joe,

I moved them to 4" away from the front wall in my living room and the sound is amazing. They sound so good. It's like a whole other speaker system.

Sal

[hearingimpared]

Joe,

I moved them to 4" away from the front wall in my living room and the sound is amazing. They sound so good. It's like a whole other speaker system.

Sal


That was kinda what I had in mind. I was really referring to the crossovers. That along with positioning is the single best thing you could do for the sound of those bigguns.

[Lasareath]

Hey Everyone,

My parents just came back from florida and they had on their camera the following pictures of when my Dad helped me cut down the African Padauk. Check out the dust it created, it's pretty wild!

Sal

[F1nut]

Glad to see you were wearing masks, that's some nasty stuff to breath in.

[Lasareath]

Glad to see you were wearing masks, that's some nasty stuff to breath in.

Yeah, We had no idea that sawdust would be like that. It's just so fine that it spread all over the garage. After we were done the Garage was glowing bright orange, there was a thin layer of the orange dust all over everything.

It was nuts!

[engtaz]

What Glue did you use to reattach them?


engtaz

[F1nut]

I've used Liquid Nails construction adhesive with clamps and weights. Worked very well.

[engtaz]

Thanks

engtaz

[Lasareath]

What Glue did you use to reattach them?


engtaz


I used PL375 http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100661713/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[HollowState]

Hey, what a great thread!

Yeah, I know. Kinda late to the game, but I just acquired an original pair of SDA SRS speakers. Build date of 1986. In the process of rebuilding the crossovers. Working through all of DarqueKnight's incredible posts.

Wanted to take the wood off, strip it, and dye it black. Looks like more work than I want to take on just now, despite the fact that I'm an accomplished woodworker.

Speaking of which, anyone reading this thread and thinking about using exotic hardwoods, please use caution! The dust is ultra-fine and some species can be quite toxic. You may not feel it immediately, but it can settle into your lungs and be incredibly invasive.

Also, some woods are oily, and plain old yellow glue won't cut it for the long term. My suggestion is to go online and do some research. There's tons of advice out there.

Love this forum!

[DarqueKnight]

Welcome to the forum. A few of us have refinished the wood trim on our SDA's. Lasareath's discussed his work in this thread and on his website.

I replaced the wood trim on my SRS's and 1.2TL's with tiger maple:


SDA-SRS-1.2TL-Custom-Wood-Panels (http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?134147-SDA-SRS-1.2TL-Custom-Wood-Panels&highlight=tiger+maple)


Curly-Maple-End-Caps-and-Side-Strips-For-The-SDA-SRS (http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?131134-Curly-Maple-End-Caps-and-Side-Strips-For-The-SDA-SRS)


Janne refinished the wood trim on his 1.2TL's with gloss black:


How-Janne-s-1.2TL-s-finally-got-their-stripes (http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?107549-How-Janne-s-1.2TL-s-finally-got-their-stripes)

[Moose68Bash]

The top and bottom end caps are easily removed after accessing the retaining nuts by removing the top two drivers and passive radiator.

Once again, DarqueKnight, I have found in one of your posts information I've been looking for: What do I need to do the tighten up the bottom end cap on my SRSs.

Thanks.