Lets talk about relays

[swerve]

Yea so I'm going to try this to stop my turn off thump (since it's the type where my sub is moving (can't risk ripping the leads)

It should work... I believe I understand everything but where to fuse the 30 and what to connect it to. Also If I'm doing 2 amps do I just run 2 leads off the 87?

vr3x you suggest i won't rip the leads since it's most likely not reaching full excursion... but I can't risk it.

http://www.partsexpress.com/resources/relay16a.gif

[neomagus00]

the fuse for the 30 can be put pretty much wherever. you'll be drawing small currents, so you can tap into any old 12V line you can find. the elegant way to do it (well, what i think would be elegant) is to hook the fuse into an unused port in your fuse box, so it's all integrated and pretty and stuff. conveniently, 12V lines go into the fuse box all the time, so you can find one and T off of it. and yeah, you can run both amps off the same outlet.

[swerve]

for the 12v+ Antenna Do I clip this then and connect it? wouldn't that create a problem somewhere? or no since I have the the 30 connected to 12v?

never did this before and I know I'm capable just need a good understanding.

thanks again

-adam

[neomagus00]

huh? oh... well, you could run the REM wire from the HU into the relay, then the antenna and amp off the 87...

[swerve]

Originally posted by neomagus00
huh? oh... well, you could run the REM wire from the HU into the relay, then the antenna and amp off the 87... so I take it I don't cut the antenna... I just splice into it and connect the 87?

also someone suggested I don't use the 12v constant behind the radio because engine noise. i know there is one in the steering column but I don't want to do that. any other suggestions?

[neomagus00]

12V lines are literally all over the car... try the fuse box, that way you can mount your fuse there, and have a great choice of 12V lines to tap in to

[swerve]

buddies who worked at cc with me are going to help. 2 of the better installers in this area. if I can see how it's done first then I'll completely understand.

thanks for all your help!

[Thom]

How's that supposed to stop your turn- off pop?

[swerve]

Originally posted by Thom
How's that supposed to stop your turn- off pop? I really have no clue. But numerous people have suggested atleast trying it.

If you know a better way please elaborate because obviously a 50+ pound sub is too much to ship back for some tinsel leads...

-adam

I know stinger makes that turn off pop stopper... but it seems like the same conept as this....

[neomagus00]

oh, you're doing it for turn off pop?? ohh... :o:o... my bad...

here (http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/rac-faq_2.html#SEC14) is an easy thing to try

[swerve]

Originally posted by neomagus00
oh, you're doing it for turn off pop?? ohh... :o:o... my bad...

here (http://www.mobileaudio.com/rac-faq/rac-faq_2.html#SEC14) is an easy thing to try Uhhh... I have no clue how to translate that...

that's way above my head.


a diode is like a wire with a timer on it then? what is this talk of a capacitor?

I need a diagram...

[Josh]

Try one of these:
LINKY (http://www.autosound2000.com/amp.htm)

[swerve]

Originally posted by Josh
Try one of these:
LINKY (http://www.autosound2000.com/amp.htm) wow thanks... you rec. any specific one?

this is kind of like the stinger one I was looking at.

i appreciate it!
-adam

[neomagus00]

lol... one of these (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=data.listcategory&D=621-1N4004&terms=621-1N4004&Ntt=*6211N4004*&N=0&crc=true) and one of these (http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=242494&e_categoryid=200&e_pcodeid=75027) and some solder and some hook-up wire (aka extra crap wire you have laying around), and you should be good... if you want to go the extra mile, you could even put the 2 components in a little plastic box... or you could be like me and just wrap them up in masking tape...

edit: yeah, my solution costs like a dollar at radioshack... :)

you could also go to an audio shop, they tend to have a few of these things around, but 20 bucks seems pretty steep for this...

[swerve]

this would go on the remote wire to my amplifiers then?



lol i'm a PITA....

I'm about to leave here and I really need to know where this goes before I leave town.

if you can give me a hand call 1.309.531.7537 and tell me what wire I put this on. :D :D

thanks!
adam

[audiobliss]

Originally posted by swerve
this would go on the remote wire to my amplifiers then?



lol i'm a PITA....

I'm about to leave here and I really need to know where this goes before I leave town.

if you can give me a hand call 1.309.531.7537 and tell me what wire I put this on. :D :D

thanks!
adam

Oooh...remember that number....prank calls.....:D :D

[swerve]

Originally posted by audiobliss
Oooh...remember that number....prank calls.....:D :D won't matter. lol it doesn't work half the time.

[neomagus00]

no phone atm, but yes, that goes on the REM wire... REM into the butt of the diode, then from the striped end into the amp. at that junction (the striped end), you solder the positive end of the cap, and then solder some scrap wire to the negative end. you can then run that wire to ground somewhere.

[swerve]

That didn't work guys..... I don't know what to do now.....

i bought a 47uF i don't think that is of enough value to delay long enough..... shit.

[swerve]

i up'd it... now my HU doesn't work... most likely fried... the factory works fine.

my sunroof doesn't work... and my windows don't work.

same fucking capacitor too just more microfarads to increase delay.

so yea. i'm a happy camper... but hell ya know what... i figure if this is my first fuckup it's alright.....

good night

-adam

[audiobliss]

Hehe. Well, I guess when you get into doing it all yourself, you're going to make a mistake sometime. Just be glad you didn't lose everything in a ball of flames! :D

[swerve]

Originally posted by audiobliss
Hehe. Well, I guess when you get into doing it all yourself, you're going to make a mistake sometime. Just be glad you didn't lose everything in a ball of flames! :D yea - i'm not too worked up about it. I think my windows run off the same circuit brekaer as my sunroof... they are not getting power because i hear no clicking noise... if I had a test light this would help...

-adam

oh yea... i found why i have turn off pop... my freaking remote turn on wasn't connected to the remote turn on wire... it was connected to the accesory power!!! and isn't the remote turn on blue and white... sigh... lol

-adam

[neomagus00]

hehe... hey, look at it this way - you don't have to dick around with relays and diodes and capacitors any more :).

[swerve]

Originally posted by neomagus00
hehe... hey, look at it this way - you don't have to dick around with relays and diodes and capacitors any more :). yea but I do have a fried head-unit... an no windows.

i wired it up right too... who knows what happend...

[neomagus00]

check the fuse for the windows, that SHOULD be what died. your HU might have a fuse in the powerline, check that too before you go buy the p9...

[swerve]

Originally posted by neomagus00
check the fuse for the windows, that SHOULD be what died. your HU might have a fuse in the powerline, check that too before you go buy the p9... I can't buy anything but alpine now since i bought the interface for iPod. So I'll either get another 9831 or try to get another model from last year (which shouldn't be that hard)

there is only a fuse for my sunroof... which doesn't work either.
i assume the windows just go off a relay?

Yea I know the alpine is done because my factory one powers up... I don't know why it did this though. i had them in paralel and grounded the negative.

I've learned my lesson though and I think after I get this fixed I won't do anything like this anymore. I have a bad feeling it's going to cost me out the ass.

[swerve]

I got it fixed... and i have no more turn off pop... my windows work... it wasn't a big deal... a buddy at cc was impressed with the sub. he agree's that i have an unbelievable amount of headroom...

-adam