Dark Horse
07-17-2005, 01:24 PM
I get back to the States in 2.5 months for 4 days. During that time I'm planning on upgrading the entirely blown stock speakers (bought it used, also with blown shocks).
These are the components I am planning on using
1. Dash speakers - Polk Audio MMC5250 5-1/4" component speaker system
2. Soundbar speakers - Polk/MOMO MMC650 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers
3. Subwoofer (custom enclosure behind back seat - I'll make it myself) - Polk/MOMO MM2124 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
4. Amp for dash and soundbar speakers - Profile AP1040 4-channel car amplifier 80 watts RMS x 4
5. Amp for the subwoofer - Profile AP1000M Mono subwoofer amp 310 watts RMS x 1
I am buying the Polks because of the 3 year warranty and being rated for marine use - in reality, it will spend most of its time with the top down and they will get rained on. The Amps also have 3 year warranty's. The 4 channel amp will power the dash and speaker pod speakers. That amp will be custom mounted behind the glove box, which will be replaced with a Tuffy locking (glovebox will no longer be functional either). I'll build a subwoofer enclosure which will stretch across the entire back of the TJ at the same height, and the amp will be secured in this box - separated from the woofer enclosure. It will be torx or security bolted to the tub, and locktited. No amps will be exposed, all speakers will be covered with stock looking grilles. I had planned on the subwoofer enclosure to be downfiring - less chance for rain to cause problems and to make it invisible to theives.
I will use the stock head unit. To anyone looking in with the top down - the only thing they could see is a slightly raised box in the back, painted black to blend with the Line-X (hell, I may have it Line-X'd too, so unless they are really looking they won't find it.
Sound quality is important to me. After 12 years of playing concert euphonium, and ending up good enough to have played in a smaller symphony I have the ear. I have not, however, ever done a sound system in a vehicle, and would appreciate any input.
The links for the amps are:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Xji58SHKFxt/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&id=essential_info&i=489AP1040
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mN1q5jXTLwh/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=130&id=essential_info&i=489AP1000M
I don't like ear bleeding volume, and am pretty sure this setup has that capacity, but I won't crank it up that high. To cover the added max amperage draw I will install the high output high temp alternator that comes with the Premier Power welder.
I plan to use polyfill behind the dash speakers and in the sound pods. The tweeters will be mounted on the dash and attached to the PSC full rollcage.
A few final questions -
What material should I make the subwoofer enclosure out of - plywood, plexiglass, 1" thick hardened plate steel?
Is using polyfill in the plastic sound pod speakers good enough or do I need to build a custom wooden sound pod for the speakers. I don't want to think about building a plexiglass one for that.
I welcome any and all comments.
Thanks for your help
These are the components I am planning on using
1. Dash speakers - Polk Audio MMC5250 5-1/4" component speaker system
2. Soundbar speakers - Polk/MOMO MMC650 6-1/2" 2-way Speakers
3. Subwoofer (custom enclosure behind back seat - I'll make it myself) - Polk/MOMO MM2124 12" 4-ohm subwoofer
4. Amp for dash and soundbar speakers - Profile AP1040 4-channel car amplifier 80 watts RMS x 4
5. Amp for the subwoofer - Profile AP1000M Mono subwoofer amp 310 watts RMS x 1
I am buying the Polks because of the 3 year warranty and being rated for marine use - in reality, it will spend most of its time with the top down and they will get rained on. The Amps also have 3 year warranty's. The 4 channel amp will power the dash and speaker pod speakers. That amp will be custom mounted behind the glove box, which will be replaced with a Tuffy locking (glovebox will no longer be functional either). I'll build a subwoofer enclosure which will stretch across the entire back of the TJ at the same height, and the amp will be secured in this box - separated from the woofer enclosure. It will be torx or security bolted to the tub, and locktited. No amps will be exposed, all speakers will be covered with stock looking grilles. I had planned on the subwoofer enclosure to be downfiring - less chance for rain to cause problems and to make it invisible to theives.
I will use the stock head unit. To anyone looking in with the top down - the only thing they could see is a slightly raised box in the back, painted black to blend with the Line-X (hell, I may have it Line-X'd too, so unless they are really looking they won't find it.
Sound quality is important to me. After 12 years of playing concert euphonium, and ending up good enough to have played in a smaller symphony I have the ear. I have not, however, ever done a sound system in a vehicle, and would appreciate any input.
The links for the amps are:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Xji58SHKFxt/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&id=essential_info&i=489AP1040
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-mN1q5jXTLwh/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=130&id=essential_info&i=489AP1000M
I don't like ear bleeding volume, and am pretty sure this setup has that capacity, but I won't crank it up that high. To cover the added max amperage draw I will install the high output high temp alternator that comes with the Premier Power welder.
I plan to use polyfill behind the dash speakers and in the sound pods. The tweeters will be mounted on the dash and attached to the PSC full rollcage.
A few final questions -
What material should I make the subwoofer enclosure out of - plywood, plexiglass, 1" thick hardened plate steel?
Is using polyfill in the plastic sound pod speakers good enough or do I need to build a custom wooden sound pod for the speakers. I don't want to think about building a plexiglass one for that.
I welcome any and all comments.
Thanks for your help