My system is installed.......bout damn time..... [Archive]

brettw22

01-04-2006, 11:39 PM

I've attached the pics of where they put the amp in the trunk and the rear deck. Since all factory grilles are intact there's no point in showing those pictures. They swapped the bad amp today so I now have 4 channels and they are AWESOME!!!! I'm planning on getting Sirius installed either this weekend or when I return from the road after about a month and a half.

I have one issue..........with the location of the amp (only place it could go because of the passthrough on the folddown backseat). it ultimately is exposed when the trunk is opened so rain can drop right onto the amp from the sky, or right from the edge of the trunk when I'm opening it. I mentioned this to them when I took it back to have the amp swapped and they said that I would need to pay another $30 because "it's a custom fit". TRUST me when I say that I'm going to argue the hell out of that one and I'm going to tell them that I paid the "custom" charge before and it's not my fault that the (30 year) experienced installer chose to leave it exposed. I'm about done with these guys to be honest. See where the amp is and where the rear speakers are? They charged me $25 (half their usual charge) to run those cables the whole 5 feet. ARGGGGG........

beardog03

01-04-2006, 11:56 PM

beautiful,man,just beautiful..!!

very nice..!!
I`m jealous..

how do you like the 4oo.4 ?
I have a new one, I just haven`t installed it yet..

brettw22

01-05-2006, 12:11 AM

I really like it. I know these speaks can handle over twice the power, but I hav no complaints. With some of the music I've been listening to, I've been blasting the hell out of it and these sound incredible. I'm considering getting an sub, so I'm sure that's on the way in the not so distant future.

exalted512

01-05-2006, 01:42 AM

danger boy

01-05-2006, 05:33 AM

looking good there. i'm sure is sound every bit as good too.

it's been years since i had amps intalled in any car. that one looks huge to me. very cool.

enjoy.

MacLeod

01-05-2006, 11:45 AM

That is a sweet spot for the amp, other than it being exposed. It cost you zero space in your trunk.

You could fashion up something for it yourself to hang over and keep the rain off.

Im disappointed in Tweeter, I thought they were a little better than that. Next time, find a good localy owned shop and let them do it. Their installers will be just as good but also more honest and not as likely to be trying to rip you off at every turn.

brettw22

01-05-2006, 12:03 PM

I'm VERY thrilled with the location of the amp because of not having to lose any trunk space.....trust. The thing that bothers me is them acting like I'm supposed to be the one thinking about the install when they have someone that's been doing them as long as he apparently has. If he made an error in judgement by not ensuring that the amp was going to be protected, then do what needs to be done and fix it. Otherwise, I'm going to be going back to them and making them replace my amp due to water damage.

I have to go back to have them fix the board because the guy didn't have time *for my scheduled appointment* to alter the board, so instead he just swapped the amp. They will not get me to pay for anything unless he's planning to house that thing in acrylic to protect it. The other thing that bothers me is they charged me for the upgrade of the factory wiring, but for the front speakers they only ran the new wire from the amp to the back of the deck (leaving it as 18awg from the deck to the speakers). Personally, if I'm paying $45 per pair to 'upgrade from stock wiring' you better bust your ass to snake and wire that cable through the doors IMO. If you're unable to do that, adjust the pricing accordingly, because I'm ultimately paying for something I'm not receiving.....

Before I head over to the shop having them refund me money, I'm going to another tweeter to have them go over my install and tell me what would and would not be appropriate charges. I'm ok with most of it, but where they shortcut (wiring) and misplan the install (amp) they need to refund money.

1996blackmax

01-05-2006, 12:12 PM

The wiring thing is BS, you paid to have the wire used on your speakers. Not to your factory cables that then went to your speakers. I would make a big stink about this. You paid for a quality install, and you should get it.

I know a guy that had some speakers installed at a Tweeter here in town. He drove off and later on tried to roll down his window. Could not do it. The speaker would not allow the window to go all the way down.

danger boy

01-05-2006, 12:13 PM

Yea, you got ****ed on the prices. Thats rediculous. I would take it back and demand they remove it and put it somewhere where your $300 investment isnt going to **** up due to the elements. Everything looks good though. But now you know why we tried to get you to consider doing it yourself.
-Cody

Ummmmm.... as much coinage as Brett dropped on the install.. i'm sure he'd rather not hear how badly he got reamed on the deal. Some of us not familar enough with car audio install, me included would never feel comfortable tackeling a install like that.. without running into some major problems.

Those people involved in car audio may not find an install like this a big challenge at all. but it would certainly be way over my head. Kit or not kit. I'd end up screwing up the entire electrical system in my car for sure. :eek:

Oh yeah.. just curious, does your pimped out ride have an alarm? If not.. i'd probably get a damn good one. See if they'll throw one in and installed for nada, for your troubles. ;)

1996blackmax

01-05-2006, 12:28 PM

Good point regarding the alarm. I am actually still waiting to put a system in my sister's car due to this reason. As soon as the alarm goes in, the system goes in. It will involve HU, two amps, all speakers (all POLK :) ), and a 12" sub.

brettw22

01-05-2006, 12:43 PM

DB, no worries on the phrasage by Cody......I'm aware that I got screwed on the pricing.......now it's just time to deal wtih it.

I'm going to try rolling down my windows later toinght. If I remember correctly, this guy installed the speakers with the windows rolled down.......I'm still going to check.

What I was told when I asked about the wiring being terminated behind the deck is that with some cars it's nearly impossible to snake the wire up and around and in the door blah blah blah.....

I don't have an aftermarket alarm.....just the factory one.Looking into the car, you'd really only think that I had an aftermarket deck because all the factory grills are in place and don't look altered.

I'm wanting to get a remote start but having a Manual, there aren't many shops that are willing to go there.

PoweredByDodge

01-05-2006, 02:04 PM

looks good hoss.

very professional looking... a lot of these retail chains do sloppy installs, but I think your's came out very very nice.

brettw22

01-05-2006, 02:12 PM

I'd agree that the overall neatness is excellent. It's the business practices part of it that I'm needing to address.

MacLeod

01-05-2006, 05:23 PM

I wouldnt sweat it too much Brett. I woulndt necessarily say you got screwed, just that they werent on the up and up witcha and didnt cut you any slack where they obviously shouldve (running speaker wire 3' and charging for it!)

If you paid for upgraded wiring then it should be upgraded wiring running from the amp to the speaker terminals. That is something you should at least get your money back on. Running good quality speaker wire to the head unit and then splicing into the crappy sewing thread they use for factory wires to run another 6' to the speakers is a load of crap! You might as well have used the factory wire!!

exalted512

01-05-2006, 08:29 PM

Thats what we do when installing amps on highs, just run the speaker wires from the amp to the back of the deck. If they ask to run wire to each speaker, its $20 per pair unless its something easy like the back deck, in which case its free. You paid for something they didnt do. I wouldnt take my money back, I'd make it go in there and redo it. Sorry about my first post, I reread it and it did sound pretty harsh. Everything looks great, but I would most certainly go back and make them hold up their side of the deal.
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

01-05-2006, 08:51 PM

kill all their dogs!

amulford

01-05-2006, 09:15 PM

It looks good. You have the EXACT speaker wire I got. Almost a shame to hide that pretty ****, ain't it?

If you paid to get new wiring, get new wiring. I'd make them do a home run, too, the bastads. I don't want any extra connections if I can avoid it. That bull**** about snaking it is just that, BULL****. It takes time, that's all.

As far as the amp goes... If he didn't put it there, you probably would have lost space. If I were you, I'd get a cover made.

Other than that, why are you starving the little buggers? Give em the power they're beggin' for. Put another 400.4 on the other side and BI AMP!!! :D

I bet it sounds pretty damn good huh?

PoweredByDodge

01-05-2006, 10:09 PM

bi amping won't increase power output. it'll just give you more control over the speakers. they're still 4 ohm speakers. unless you bridge the 400.4 to the front and get another 400.4 bridged to the back. that wouldn't be biamping though.

I always dealt with door jamb boots by using another grommet on the "outer kick panel" below the factory one... usually there's another one there witha rubber plug in the hole... poke a hole in the rubber, shove the wire through, poke a hole in the endof the boot where it meets the door, snake it through... then put skinny loom over the piece of wire and leave some extra loom so you can shave it in through the rubber on the "outer kick" and shove it in through the hole you pokedin the boot -- then it looks professional, is still weather resistant, and gets the job done without having to dick around with the factory boot which is often full of way too many wires as it is.

exalted512

01-05-2006, 10:16 PM

PoweredByDodge

01-05-2006, 10:33 PM

could do that -- if he's got the same space opn the passenger size trunk-side-panel thing... then just do a mirror image... with some kind of a "looks like it belongs in the car" shield made to deflect rain/snow/whatever when he opens the trunk.

would look wicked good.

audiobliss

01-05-2006, 10:41 PM

Looks good. Good install, too, except for the wiring and exposed amp. I'd really stick it to 'em 'til you get what you paid for and what their experience should have given you in the first place.

Congrats on an awesome system! Now get a sub in that thing!

brettw22

02-01-2006, 01:34 AM

Well I finally had the time to go to another Tweeter to get a few things explained to me and find out some of the differences that I'd been told on the phone. I called and talked to a manager tonight at the Tweeter that I had my install done at and here's what I brought up:

- I was charged $80 per pair of speakers to install because they were component speakers. Tweeter, however, also has a price of $40/pair for component speakers if they're mounted coaxially, which mine are.

- The speaker wiring on the front's being terminated behind the deck and being charged the $45 for the upgrade of factory wiring. One thing that I asked the guy at the Tweeter that I stopped by (didn't have the work done at) was how could they possibly have used the factory wiring for my rear speakers. He said they would have had to run cable from the amp (in the trunk) back up to the deck and that's how they'd tie into the factory wiring. My question is this......why would I be charged anything to run the wires 5-6 feet to the speakers on the rear deck since I'm saving them having to run anything back up to the deck?

- Exposed amp. I explained to him the problem with the water drippage on it when the trunk is opened and that I had called and asked about it and was told that I would have another 'custom labor' charge to fix it. He seemed to have a crystal understanding on why I'd be bothered to be told that I have to pay to retrofit something they came up with.

Ultimately, the way I look at it I should be getting around $80-100 back and they should be getting everything resolved shortly. I did say to the guy taht I don't really have issues with the overall quality of work that was done, just the inconsistencies between waht one shop does/charges and how those differed on my install. One thing that I will be doing is taking my business (possible Sirius purchase in the future) to the other Tweeter that has been very forthcoming with any information I've asked of them.

Regarding the adding of another amp. Would that double the power to each speaker? Would I have to run another set of speaker wire up to each of the speakers so I have 2 home runs per speaker (4 per pair)?

I have thought about getting a second 400.4 to put on the passenger side to basically mirror what I have on the current install (the existing amp would stay the amp for the front speakers). The two thoughts with doing this are:
1) I currently have a 4 channel rca run from the front deck to the existing amp, so I don't want to have to re-run (or re-purchase) RCA's. In my head, I've thought about an RCA extention pair being swung from the current amp to the new, if that's even an existing product.
2) The speaker cable for the rears wouldn't be a problem to swing from current location drivers to new location passengers.

Lastly, I'm thinking of getting a sub, but first things first.....I need to get all things here resolved before I start adding to the mix.

danger boy

02-01-2006, 03:17 AM

my head hurts now after reading that Brett.. I need a nap. ha ha ha.

good for you man. Sounds like you got most everything resolved or at least explained to you better.

car audio doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me. i'm sure it's pretty basic understanding.. but it's over my head.

Just curious.. how much tweeking did you have to do to the system to get it to sound good? little, lots or none at all?

brettw22

02-02-2006, 11:26 PM

Did my questions get lost in the essay I wrote?

PoweredByDodge

02-02-2006, 11:33 PM

if the new amp is going to push a sub,then your deck may have a "sub" pre out - a 3rd set of preouts --- run another 2 channel RCA from that preout to the sub amp... if your head unit doesn't have this - then use the RCA out jack on the amp to jumper a 6 foot RCA from amp #1 to amp #2.

If your amp doesnt have that then you'll have to use a Y-splitter to jump 2 of the channels into the one amp and then run the other remaining 2 channels over to the second amp. I haven't seen a 400.4 in person so i dont know.

if you just want to run another 400.4 to bi amp...then you'll have to use y splitters into the first amp and y splitters into the second amp -- in order to keep everything coherent...

if you then want to add a sub still after all of that and you don't have a 3rd preout, then you're going to have to split yet again, which gets messy... i need to know what youve got comin outa the deck first... then i'll look and see what the 400.4 is equipped with, and then we can go from there....

RuSsMaN

02-02-2006, 11:33 PM

Fitness water?

Cool install. Keep the trunk closed when it rains.

brettw22

02-02-2006, 11:53 PM

Right now, the potential other amp would be just to bi-amp my speakers (so a 400.4 for the fronts, and a 400.4 for the rears).

If I am going to bi-amp, how many runs of cables do I need to make to each door?

All I've got coming out of the deck is a 4 channel run from the deck to the trunk where the 400.4 is. I believe there is a pre-out for a sub should I decide to put that in at a later time.

PoweredByDodge

02-03-2006, 12:01 AM

ok...

then this is how you'd do it...

one set of 2 channel RCA's to 400.4 #1 ... split it with Y splitters to make it 4 channel friendly.

one set of 2 channel RCA's to 400.4 #2 ... split it with Y's again to make it 4 channel friendly.

one set of 2 channel RCA's from sub output to the sub amp...

you'll need 2 lines of speaker wire for each SR component you want to bi-amp... so you'll need one speaker wire run for the tweeter, one for the woofer on the left side.... on the right side you'll need one for the tweeter and one for the woofer...

left rear... one for tweeter, one for woofer.. right rear... one for tweeter, one for woofer.

brettw22

02-03-2006, 12:58 AM

I figured that I'd have to 2 channel it to each amp, but since I have a 4-channel RCA from the deck to 400.4 #1, I guess I could just male/female an RCA extension from 2 of the channels over to 400.4 #2, right?

With regard to the speaker wire, would I run the wire directly to the tweeter and the mid bypassing the crossover alltogether?

I'm not entirely sure that I'm going to do the bi-amping thing because they didn't even go into the door with the front speakers because they said they "couldn't get through the door" blah blah blah.

The Sub though will be a totally different thread I'll start if/when I decide to go there.

PoweredByDodge

02-03-2006, 01:26 PM

yes, you can use "bullet" (female in - female out) connectors to extend 2 channels of your 4 channel line over to the other 400.4

that's no problem... just "tuck it [the bullet joint] away" so it looks all pretty like it does now.

far as speaker wire... i believe the 400.4's have built in active high and low pass crossovers... so you should be able to totally bypass the external SR crossover. however, if the SR crossover is of better quality than the crossovers in the amp, then you could also just run both tweeter and woofer power lines (from amp) into the crossover and then out of the crossover --- the SR crossover has a provision for bi-ampling built into it i believe.

that's horse **** about "not being able to get into the door" -- if they can't get through the stock grommet then you're supposed to drill two small dime sized or smaller holes and put an additional grommet in the jamb and in the door... and then use wire-loom to make a "boot" over the speaker wire. I did that in my trucks... looks like its "factory".

MacLeod

02-03-2006, 05:59 PM

The only reason to bi-amp would be to gain an added flexibility in tuning the tweeters output. That being said, the SR's crossover is DEAD ON in terms of the tweeter attenuator and really dont require much additional tuning beyond the SR's x-over abilities.

Another thing I dont like about bi-amping is having to buy and run double the wires and cables you normally would have to.

In my opinon, Id keep the single 400.4 and use that money for your sub amp. There is nothing wrong with bi-amping but if youre just mainly wanting a "plug and play" system, bi-amping aint really worth it especially with the SR's.

PoweredByDodge

02-03-2006, 06:11 PM

In my opinon, Id keep the single 400.4 and use that money for your sub amp. There is nothing wrong with bi-amping but if youre just mainly wanting a "plug and play" system, bi-amping aint really worth it especially with the SR's.

that's basically what i was leaning toward too... i like passive crossovers... the only thing i like about bi-amping is being able to adjust tweeter, mid, and midbass for sensitivity differences... but the polk SR's are all engineered to match up dead on balls. so that's not necessary at all.

do it up like you have it now and just add the sub amp kimosabi! :)

(suggestion --- SR 10 with a 300.2 (assuming the sub will be available in single 4, or dual 2 ohm coils and with a power rating in the 500-ish range). It'd be kinda cool if it was a 1000 watt sub, then you could throw two C500.1's on it.

I"m addicted to amps :)

dorokusai

02-03-2006, 06:13 PM

It looks real cute.

brettw22

02-03-2006, 06:40 PM

I'm thinking 12's on the subs, and I was going to get the 500.1........that should run both of the 12's with ease........

MacLeod

02-03-2006, 06:42 PM

It would be a better match to the MM2104's but itll push the 2124's just fine too.

brettw22

02-03-2006, 07:13 PM

Why would the 500.1 be a better match for the 2104's and not the 2124's?

Rogue Torino

02-03-2006, 07:40 PM

A lot of these newer cars have molex plugs built in to the door boot making is a real pain to go through the factory boot. As far as drilling 2 new holes and installing an after market boot, that's fine and dandy but not all door jambs are as easy to access as a Dodge truck and Drilling them can be a nightmare and possibly require taking the door off of the car. However, they should have taken a look at the door boots before charging you to replace factory wiring. Further more, if they couldn't do the labor they charged you for they should have immediately refunded the money instead of hoping you'd forget.

The amp mount looks nice and even though the amp doesn't have vents on the top edge it should still have something to protect it from any errant water that may fall on it. perhaps a small carpeted piece to shroud the top.

PoweredByDodge

02-03-2006, 07:54 PM

A lot of these newer cars have molex plugs built in to the door boot making is a real pain to go through the factory boot. As far as drilling 2 new holes and installing an after market boot, that's fine and dandy but not all door jambs are as easy to access as a Dodge truck and Drilling them can be a nightmare and possibly require taking the door off of the car. However, they should have taken a look at the door boots before charging you to replace factory wiring. Further more, if they couldn't do the labor they charged you for they should have immediately refunded the money instead of hoping you'd forget.

I'll grant you that... u're right, they should have at least looked at the job before they quoted a cost... would have avoided him being unhappy with it.

brettw22

02-03-2006, 08:00 PM

I was suffering from sticker shock actually.

When I had taken my car into them in the first place, I was sitting there for an hour and a half before the guy started working on the car. I went out to ask him a few questions and he went into a few things then asked if I had been given a complete quote (which I had tried to get the sales person to give me before they drove the car in, and about 3 days prior to my install). They originally told me just about $300, and when the tech had my car panels off and started, was given numbers close to $500....

They're backpedling saying that the guy had to do extra work to get the rear speakers mounted to justify the $80 vs $40 price tag. They started to tell me that he had to manufacture a board to fit the 6x9 slot, which I interrupted him mid sentence telling him that the plate came with the speakers. How they can say he had a hard time mounting 6.5" speakers in a 6x9 slot with a provided mounting bracket is beyond me, and they're going to have a hard time getting me to believe it.

exalted512

02-03-2006, 08:17 PM

ive never had a problem getting around the plugs in the grommet whether it be a dodge or a beamer. Thats the beauty of "right angles" Not sure the technical term, but it goes on the end of the drill and makes a 90º angle. They run about 25 bucks at home depot.

Besides the point that any installer thats been doing it for even a couple months know damn near all Hondas have that plug.

Manufacture a board my ass. "Manufacture" is bull **** in itself. They have to make a board with a hole in it. Any retard with a jigsaw can do that. And that besides the point the Polk provides adapters to fit 6x9s with the SR's.

Def. take your business elsewhere next time. And Sirius installs are extremely easy if you can match colors and plug in wires.
-Cody

MacLeod

02-03-2006, 09:31 PM

Why would the 500.1 be a better match for the 2104's and not the 2124's?

The 2124's are 400 watt subs and the 2104 are 300 watt. The 500.1 makes a little over 600 watts real world power so that would be a better match for the 10's.

Still, itll work well with the 12's also.

brettw22

02-03-2006, 09:41 PM

I still don't understand the reasoning.....if the 2124's can handle more power, and the 500.1 is going to give more juice than a 300.2...........(what am I missing?)

MacLeod

02-03-2006, 09:50 PM

You run the 500.1 which makes 600 watts or 300x2 and you run a pair of subs.

The 2104 is rated at 300 watts which would be an ideal match for the 300x2 of the 500.1

The 2124 is rated at 400 watts which would be underpowered by 100 watts from the 300x2 of the 500.1

brettw22

02-03-2006, 09:59 PM

So I'd have to get 2 300.2's to run 2 2124's?

audiobliss

02-03-2006, 10:01 PM

...umm...color me confused...

I would think two C300.2 amps would do well with a pair of MM2124 subs. That'd be 450 watts to each, use the gains to turn it down, and you're booming.

Rogue Torino

02-03-2006, 10:07 PM

ive never had a problem getting around the plugs in the grommet whether it be a dodge or a beamer. Thats the beauty of "right angles" Not sure the technical term, but it goes on the end of the drill and makes a 90º angle. They run about 25 bucks at home depot.
-Cody

A skew? Yeah I have one and you'd think a person who's "been installing for 30 years" would too but you never know. He's probably just being lazy. There are a few cars i've done where even that is a tight squeeze, but at my location there isn't much call to rewire the doors as most people 'round here are cheap. I ussually get stuck trying to explain why thier Boss 2000w amp can't power the JL sub they probably stole a couple days earlier......

MacLeod

02-03-2006, 10:36 PM

So I'd have to get 2 300.2's to run 2 2124's?

Not necessarily. The 500.1 would still push a pair of 2124's quite well and its doubful youd even notice the 100 watt deficit.

A 300.2 would be awful close to being too much. That 300.2 makes 500 watts bridged and that would be 100 more than the 2124 is rated for. Still it would be ok with some common sense usage and Brett is experienced enough in audio that he wouldnt overdrive them.

But for me, Id rather have the simplicity and ease of installation of a single 500.1 for a pair of 2124's.

brettw22

02-03-2006, 11:18 PM

I'd agree on the ease of a single amp over trying to do 2.

I can say confidently that I'll at least try to install the sub and amp myself. I know I have to get a distro block now that I'm going to have the 2 amps, and the 4 gauge wire should be sufficient to run the 400.4 and 500.1 if I remember correctly.

I know I'm going to need to get a Sub RCA cable, but what types of power cables do I need to get for the additional amp for the subs?

Also, with HT the sub cable is a single end to single end RCA cable, but someone mentioned that I need a 2 channel sub run......why the additional termination?

audiobliss

02-03-2006, 11:19 PM

Beats me. I was pretty sure you only need one for car subs, too. Still am, actually.

PoweredByDodge

02-03-2006, 11:38 PM

your Polk C500.1 or 300.2, whatever you get --- any car amp --- is going to have a "right and left" RCA input plug jacks...

your deck suwoofer output is a right and left rca jack...

so - use a 2 channel car audio RCA. don't use a 1 channel home audio one.

far as the sub...

why not wait for an SR sub? you have 2 sets of SR components... to hell with a momo sub... get an SR sub. Jeez man, be matched!

I reccomend you go with one sub...

#1 - space --- you want some truck room

#2 - it may very well look better... when you get into high end gear like the SR stuff, sometimes "more is less".

#3 - I think one good 10 or 12 will stomp a mudhole in your chest, no need for 2.

now... say the SR 10 or 12 is dual 2 ohm or single 4 ohm coil... then you'd want the C300.2 - and you'd bridge it to the sub.

If it's dual 4 ohm coil, then go with the C500.1

my understanding is the 300.2 will put out over 500 watts into 4 ohms with a greater slew rate and characteristics than the class D 500.1 --- that doesn't mean the 500.1's a slouch though... its just a matter of "if you can use a class AB, then do so" kind of thing... at least at this point in electronics tech evolution.

as far as power wire.. what do you have now? if you have a 4 gauge line, then all you need is a distribution block, and you can jump an 8 gauge line from the distro block over to the 400.4... and another 8 gauge line over to the sub amp (Assuming these lines are like 3 feet or less each.

brettw22

02-04-2006, 12:09 AM

I'm DEFINITELY waiting for the SR subs (I wasn't sure if Mac's model numbers were for the SR's or Momo's or whatever).

The 10's or 12's are going to be offered in a single or double voice coil.....what that means for the ohm rating i have no idea (nor do I fully get the purpose of double coil, but whatever).

Am I understanding correctly that the Polk amps aren't all the same class design? I would have thought there would be a difference between manufacturers, but same manufacturers and different models would be the same.....no?

The 400.4 is on the left side of the trunk, and I'm thinking that the 500.1 or 300.2 will be mounted on the other side of the trunk (not a big fan of the idea of mounting the amp to the sub box).

I have a 4 gauge wire run to the 400.4 right now, and I'm sure that I wouldn't be within 3 feet of the distro block on both amps. I haven't looked, but the 4 guage wire would be run right into the 400.4, right? If that's the case, I'm guessing I have to pull that out, run the 4 gauge into the distro block, then jumper cables from that distro block to each amp, but why would it be 8 gauge wire now? Wouldn't that give less power ultimately to each amp?

Rogue Torino

02-04-2006, 03:28 AM

Dual Voice Coils make it possible to use the subs under configureations that you just can't do with a single VC. It also makes it possible to byamp a sub but that isn't done often. if you have 4 Ohm DVC you can have them wired at 2 Ohm or 8 Ohm total, where a single 4 Ohm VC can only be 4 Ohm. It all depnds on what amp you're using and how many Subs you plan on running off of it.

MacLeod

02-04-2006, 11:21 AM

The reason for different class amps is that Class D amps are much better suited for powering subs. Theyre much more effecient and can deliver more power to your sub per input voltagte than a Class A/B. Plus a 500 watt Class D amp will be quite a bit smaller than a 500 watt Class A/B amp.

The reason for dual voice coil subs is to take advantage of the Class D design. Since a Class D is stable to 2 ohms mono and a stereo amp usually is not, the DVC sub allows you to take full advantage of all a Class D amp's power while only using a single sub.

Plus it can let you use multiple subs at an impedance you couldnt have used before.

Say you take a pair of DVC 4 ohm subs, wire the subs in series with each other and in parallel with the amp and youve got 2 subs running 4 ohms mono.

iworkfortweeter

04-12-2006, 01:54 AM

brettw22

04-12-2006, 02:51 AM

My issue isn't with where the amp is (other than it's directly exposed to drips from the trunk any time it's opened).......it's the bait/switch they did with the pricing on the install after they had the car half torn apart.

Bottom line, lesson learned......pin their asses down to the penny before they do a thing (something I'd come in twice to do before my install date, but was told it was unnecessary......ha)

PoweredByDodge

04-12-2006, 03:44 AM

dude man did an awesome job. our installers are the best in the nation, and we're proud of that. don't let some douchebag tell you otherwise. there's absolutely nothing wrong with that job, plus, where else are you supposed to stick that monster? i have the EXACT same setup as you do down to the brand of car, and guess where my amp is? exactly...

1) That is not an awesome job.

It's a good job. It coud be better. For what Brett paid, he should have gotten better. It's a matter of principle. Is it a bad job? Not at all... but is it a an awesome job? No way in hell.

2) Tweeter's installers are not the best in the nation. But that's neither here nor there.

3) There are several things that we pointed out wrong with the job in this thread. Your inability to notice them, or your misguided stupidity in overlooking them does not change the fact that they exist and that Brett is living with them.

4) Where else is one to stick said monster? Lots of places. If you ask a question like that, then you either haven't done any (yes any, not many) installs, or you are simply relegated to the "bolt the amp to the box and call it a day in the back of a 1994 Honda Accord" install jobs. Sorry... there's more to installing than slapping a power wire on the amp. I'm not proclaiming myself as some allmighty installer. However, I'll put it to you this way... I have neither the handskills, patience, nor tactility to do supreme work, however, I have the know how, intelligence, and experience to direct, instruct, utilize and critique supreme work. That being said... I do good to very good work all damn day long.

98thumpin

04-13-2006, 02:35 AM

damn skippy you said it ther in a nurshell

Red230SX

04-13-2006, 02:52 AM

PBD that's what I was thinking as well. I can do an install on that level in my
sleep and I don't work for Tweeter :)

You live and you learn I guess.

TroyD

04-13-2006, 03:01 AM

C'mon, Tweeter rocks. Mantis said so.

Any questions??

BDT

98thumpin

04-13-2006, 03:29 AM

tweeter is great for buying homea audio equipment, but they are not all that great for car audio installs

MacLeod

04-13-2006, 05:32 PM

There is nothing wrong with Tweeter. They carry excellent quality gear and their sales staff are a lot more knowledgable than other big box stores. As for their installation quality, Id rate it much higher than the typical CC or BB job and on par with a lot of custom shops. Ive bought a lot of gear from Tweeter over the years and have never really had any complaints about them.

Besides, they let me go into the home audio room and listen to the LSi7's and RTi8's all the time without any static. :D

1996blackmax

04-13-2006, 08:59 PM

My experience with Tweeter here in town has been less than stellar. I have met a couple of guys from there that were very knowledgeable and on point with their advice. This is the exception though, as most of the guys I have dealt with there or witnessed others deal with, are shady to say the least. Here in San Diego they were known as DOW before Tweeter bought them out. I have been browsing in their stores for many years. I was hoping that their style of business would change after the switch, but it did not. I have had the pleasure of stearing a couple of people the other way while I was in there, as the staff was feeding them pure bull. It is not right when a kid trying to get equiptment tells the guy that he has limited funds, works at Taco Bell, and it has taken a long time to get his money together, and then the sales guy is still feeding him bull just to get a bigger sale. I do have to say that they carry nice gear, but so do other places here in town.....

MacLeod

04-13-2006, 09:36 PM

As far as being knowledgable, Id rather just do the reasearch myself. I went into Car Tunes here in Chattanonoga looking for the Audiocontrol EQS and got a whole bunch of ****.

1st off, they tried to sell me the EQX saying it had 6 channel input. I almost bought it too but decided to keep shopping around and Im glad I did. I got home and looked it up online and its only 2 channel.

2nd they tried to talk me out of getting a 6 channel (cause they didnt have any in stock) and neither the sales dude OR the installer could grasp that I had my speaker bi-amped AND had time correction on all 4 channels.

But the best part and the last straw was when the installer actually said, and with a straight face mind you, "you dont need time correction for your subs anyway because theyre nondirectional". For which the only reply I could come up with for that was http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/traurig/sad-smiley-028.gif.

Needless to say I still prefer to support my local shop but I believe Ill be doing my own product research from now on.