Tool Time

[Early B.]

Is there an apparatus that will help me cut a straight line 100% of the time? I have a Dewalt jig saw and an entry level circular saw, but staying on the line has always been a challenge for me. I don't use my power tools very often and I'm not interested in replacing my saws. I was hoping someone with more knowledge of tools has run across some kind of thingy that could attach to my existing tools and help me stay straight. Links and brand names would be helpful.

Thanks.

[phoneisbusy]

These come to mind.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41707&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30035&cat=1,240,45313&ap=1

The factory edge of plywood is generally quiet straight and you could probably fashion a jig like the ones above.

Woodworking is my next most expensive weakeness I fear...

regards

Dave

[hoosier21]

a table saw

[Early B.]

Thanks -- that's what I'm looking for. I also found a short one here:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000224DK/ref=wl_it_dp/002-0260447-9523238?%5Fencoding=UTF8&colid=3ALDHEM2LTMUK&coliid=I3OOETCG5IE7Z0&v=glance&n=228013

My cuts are almost always 24" or less, so this one might work for me.

[Early B.]

Yeah, one day I may splurge and buy a table saw, but it's a low priority. I won't use it very much -- like once or twice a year.

[VR3]

That router I sent you with a fence with do some accurate damage - you might have to do more than one pass..

[scottnbnj]

tru-grips work well, i have the 36", 50" and 8'. sharp, high quality blades too.

)

[Polkersince85]

A staight edge ( board ) will work, clamped on both ends. Use good condition sharp blades. Best solution is to allow the tool to cut. Don't push it so hard as to force it off location. The first nick sets the direction of the cut so line it up carefully and let the tool do the cutting.

[Pablo]

I bought a cheap aluminum one at the HD awhile back. It's just 2 pieces of 4' aluminum (a little more than 48" actually), with a metal piece in the middle to attach them together. Just use any clamp to attach each end to the board (it was about $15).

The key to a straight cut is to go slow (like someone said, let the saw do the work), and DON'T stop in the middle. A slow and steady pace will give you a nice cut every time (and use a sharp blade).

[unc2701]

yeah, you don't have to spend a lot of money for those straight edges. I used part of an old bed frame for while, then went to a 1x3 piece of oak that I put a clamping system on (read: drilled some holes, added some C clamps). Like everybody said, let the saw do the work or you'll push your edge out of line. Oh, and if you build a jig, be sure to put marks on it to simplify setup (I've got a mark that I line up with exactly 3" past where the cut goes based on my circular saw, so I don't have to mess around with getting it in the right spot).

[phoneisbusy]

The jig I use is a straight piece of wood ( factory edge from plywood) glued on top of a 1/4" piece of mdf. Make sure the mdf sheet is wider then the width of your circular saw.

Run the circ saw along the fence and trim off the excess mdf. You now have a jig that lets you line up on your pencil marks without having to worry about the offset from the fence to your blade. The mdf also helps with tearout.

I run the router with a 1/2" straight bit on the other side of the jig and use that when I need to shave a bit off a cut.

regards

Dave

[unc2701]

Damn- that's a really good idea- sure beats adding 3" to everything.