Amp question... and subwoofer box question

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-EKMpZ7yz06V/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP1040

Is this amp any good?

And if it is ---

Could I use two channels to power my sub (one per coil) and the other two to power my front speakers... (The sub has two 4 ohm coils)...

[MacLeod]

Profile is a good amp. They are a budget amp but are built well and will make their rated power. However dont expect any more than its ratings and the feature list will be small.

And yes, you can run a VC off each channel.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Mac,
Can you run down to what I would need to do to install a full setup - 2 speakers, a CD player receiver and amp...

Im more concerned with breaking things when I take them off than doing it wrong... What is likely to happen?

Thanks

[MacLeod]

Oof, thats a little broad of a question. Im not familiar with your truck so I cant tell you how to remove the dash panel or door panels and such. Cody, being a professional installer, will probably know a lot more about this.

The basics are run your power wire from the battery, fuse it and run it thru the firewall down the left side of the truck to wherever your amps are going to be mounted. Find a good spot for a ground wire and be sure to sand off all the paint so that youre down to bare metal. You run down to Circuit City or your local shop and buy an adapter plate for your CD player and then itll be pretty much a drop in installation. You will hook the black wire to a ground, the red to the ignition and the yellow to a constant power source. Then youll take the blue or blue/white wire and run it to your amp for a remote turn on. Then you run your RCA's from the head unit down the right side of the truck to your amp and then speaker wires from the amp back up the right side of the truck to your speakers.

Dont mount the amp upside down and make sure youve got plenty of clearance for cooling.

Again, thats just a basic run down so just ask specific questions and we'll be able to get em nailed down for ya.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Hmm, I may just get Tweeter (how good are they, do you know?) to install it for me... more "insurance" that way.

[MacLeod]

Dont do it. Just ask Brett. They ripped him off. Even if they were straight up it would cost you several hundred dollars.

Trust me dude, you can do this and I guarantee you that once you do you will be so glad you did. Installation is half the fun of car audio.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Hmmm

You ever come down to the Charlotte, NC area??? ;) *cough* *cough*

[MacLeod]

LOL! I dunno. How far are you from Ashville? Thats 3 hours from me.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Hmm....

According to Mapquest, Chattanooga to Chalotte Area >insert my home town here< was a 6 hour drive. Hmmmm

There was like 8 Ashvilles - didnt know what to choose.

[exalted512]

building a box is much harder than installing a radio/amp/subs.

Anyone with a third grade education can install a radio...yellow goes to yellow, red to red...etc.

Amp install:
connect fuse holder within a few inches of where the power wire would connect to the battery, make sure theres not a fuse in the fuse holder, connect the power wire to the battery. Run it back to where youre going to install the amp.

Ground:
Put the ground close to where youre going to install the amp. Scrape off some paint from the floor, put a couple screws through it.

Remote/RCAs:
connect the remote wire to the blue/white wire on the back of the radio, plug in the rcas to where it say subwoofer out...or "SW", or if it only has one or two outputs, itll say "Rear" plug it into that one. Run those wires back to the amp.

Plug everything into the amp, put the fuse in, connect the speaker wire...voila.

Its going to run you over $100 in labor for something that could EASILY be done yourself.

For amps, try www.onlinecarstereo.com >> HiFonics...good stuff...GREAT prices
-Cody

[audiobliss]

I forgot about HiFonics. I would recommend you also look at them, Sid. A HiFonics shouldn't run you any more than a Profile, and it will be a bit better, to boot.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Thanks, will most definitely give HiFonics a look, Id rather have them than profile as well...

I got my sub today, this is a nice lil 8" sub too

[audiobliss]

Sweet. Post a pic of it. I wanna see how it looks!

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

http://eandr.biz/AS/ID81.jpg
http://eandr.biz/AS/ID812.jpg

[MacLeod]

LOL!! Leave it to ID. A little 8 with a magnet and motor assembly making up 75% of it! Thats a good thing tho, nothing wrong with overbuilding your stuff.

[audiobliss]

Wow...that is very deep...:eek:

Looks nice!!!

[PoweredByDodge]

do not run a voice coil off each channel... each voice coil should be tied to the other in either series of parallel... its nothing against you, but you have to really know what you're doing and have reliable test equipment to run coils off separate channels / amplifiers... i do not feel competent trying it myself.

amps...

DEI 1100D5
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2666
75 x 4 at 4 ohms + 400 x 1 @ 2 ohms (4 + 4 = 2)

Viper 1100.5
same amp as above, but with cooler looking casing...
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2657

DEI 6005
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2281
35 x 4 + 300 x 1

all amps are $125 or less

enjoy.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

So what - wire them to 2 ohms, bridge two channels together? *hmmm*

[PoweredByDodge]

putting the coils in parallel is a 2 ohm load... if you bridge the rear channels of a 4 channel amp (or any stereo amp), then you'll have 2 ohms on a 4 ohm stable bridge... which means smokey smokey goes the amp.

the 5 channel amps that i posted above all have "x" watts by 4 at 4 ohms for your highs... and then 300 - 400 x 1 at 2 ohms MONO (1 channel) for your sub. so you don't have to bridge the mono channel, tis already bridged for ya.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

ah....gotcha! Thanks!