Single SR 10 sub. Which amp?

[Toxis]

I'm considering either the Xtant 6.1 (600w mono) or the Diamond Audio D61000.1 (500w @ 2ohm) to run a 4 ohm DVC SR 10" sub. I'm considering the Xtant for the SQ and a tad more power but it's also gonna cost me about $100-140 more. Is it worth it??? What do you guys think? I want great SQ but the potential for some output. OEM deck BTW, nothing aftermarket.

[bknauss]

C500.1

[MacLeod]

Of course the best choice would be the 500.1

BUT, Xtant effing rules!

If your choice is between Xtant and anything else, get the Xtant.

Ultimate build quality, tons of clean power, a host of tuning features and very cool looks.

[Toxis]

I could get the Polk 500 but I have a feeling they are going to be remodelled fairly soon so I'm not sure about that yet. I can get it for $100 less than the Diamond and $110 less than the Xtant. My prices were wrong earlier (off top of head, not actually looking at my prices). The Xtant is $10 more than the Diamond. I could get the Diamond and a dual 2ohm sub to get a full 1kw. Hmmmmmm

[MacLeod]

Xtant

[1996blackmax]

I think either choice would be a good one.

[Toxis]

so would you rather put 500w to it at 2 ohm or 1k at 1ohm? I'd have to order the dual 2 ohm while we stock the dual 4. I'm leaning towards the Xtant with the dual 4. Building a box that sits "sideways" and is mounted to my rear deck. Then have it fill a chamber that is now using the OEM sub cutout as a way directly into the car. Have it sealed off so the trunk gets as little to no sound as possible. I'm sure 500w will be plenty for that.

[1996blackmax]

If placed in the proper enclosure, 500 watts will be more than enough to get the sub going.

[MacLeod]

so would you rather put 500w to it at 2 ohm or 1k at 1ohm? I'd have to order the dual 2 ohm while we stock the dual 4. I'm leaning towards the Xtant with the dual 4. Building a box that sits "sideways" and is mounted to my rear deck. Then have it fill a chamber that is now using the OEM sub cutout as a way directly into the car. Have it sealed off so the trunk gets as little to no sound as possible. I'm sure 500w will be plenty for that.

They dont have a dual 2 ohm SR sub. Its either single 4 ohm or dual 4 ohm so the 1 ohm operations aint gonna work unless you buy a pair of DVC subs.

The Polk C500.1 will make 600 watts RMS and the Xtant will make a good bit more than 600. Id say youd be closer to 700 with the Xtant.

[1996blackmax]

No need to get close, as you will get all the performance you need before giving that sub 700 watts.

[Toxis]

word up... now I just have to fight the urge to upgrade the fronts. :)

[bknauss]

I could get the Polk 500 but I have a feeling they are going to be remodelled fairly soon so I'm not sure about that yet.

That's probably not a correct feeling... just a subtle hint :)

[bknauss]

And Polk > Xtant. Its been proven thousands of times!

[1996blackmax]

..........................

[brettw22]

That's probably not a correct feeling... just a subtle hint :)Are there any plans maybe in the somewhat near future to release a line of amps that is styled moreso to the SR line than the momo?

[killerb]

i have the sr124-dvc and am going to use my zapco c2k-3.0 rated at 600 watts into 2 ohm bridge. in real life it puts out about 700 watts. its expensive, but they are rock solid amps with a damping factor of over 1000 to really control cone movement.

[bknauss]

Are there any plans maybe in the somewhat near future to release a line of amps that is styled moreso to the SR line than the momo?

subtle hint: don't hold your breath.

[1996blackmax]

i have the sr124-dvc and am going to use my zapco c2k-3.0 rated at 600 watts into 2 ohm bridge. in real life it puts out about 700 watts. its expensive, but they are rock solid amps with a damping factor of over 1000 to really control cone movement.


I too have amplifiers with very high damping factors :D .

[Toxis]

Damping factors... great on paper, worthless in real life.

[MacLeod]

Damping factors... great on paper, worthless in real life.


Couldnt agree more!

[bknauss]

Damping factor is actually important... but its unimportant to most consumers since it doesn't generally affect anything out on the market and there are too many ways to post its value.

[MacLeod]

Isnt it like THD specs in that while true .004% is better than .04% but it doesnt matter because you cant hear anything below 1%?

I kinda figure any damping factor over 50 or so and youre fine.

[1996blackmax]

I will still stick with my Arc amps :D.

[bknauss]

Isnt it like THD specs in that while true .004% is better than .04% but it doesnt matter because you cant hear anything below 1%?

I kinda figure any damping factor over 50 or so and youre fine.

You're on the right track. But 50 measured which way? There's the problem right there... hard to quote a number that means anything when there are different ways to measure it.

[MacLeod]

My understanding is that its measured by the load impedance divided by the amps internal impedance?

If thats the case and most amps that Ive seen specs on have around 1 ohm or less internal resistance and a typical load is 4 ohms, a typical amp with these numbers would have a damping factor 4/1 = 4! Maybe if the amp had .05 internal impedance youd have 4/.05 = 80. So basically an amp would have to have an insanely low .005 ohms internal resistance in order to have an 800 damping factor! And to my knowledge, there arent any amps with that low of internal resistance.

Isnt this right or have I missed the boat completley?

Remeber, I have an EXTREMELY limted understanding of this so be gentle! ;)

[killerb]

http://www.classic-audio.com/marantz/mdampingfactor.html
this explains alot about the damping factor subject. i didnt know speaker wire size can play a big part in damping factor values. i dont know anymore but the amps i like and buy always had very high damping factors, like zapco and u.s. amps. i just like quality amps, buy it once and it lasts.

[killerb]

heres another good one.
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audioprinciples/amplifiers/dampingfactor.php

[MacLeod]

Good links.

I think I understand it now.

[killerb]

yeah i finally do to. there is virtually no change in decay time through a wide range of damping factors which is surprising to me. good info for all.

[joeaudio26]

well xtant is consider high quality stuff the price of it says alot and they did their research in car audio its ur choice.

[killerb]

the new xtant isnt of the same quality as the oldschool xtant.

[killerb]

the new xtant isnt the same quality as the oldschool xtant.

[MacLeod]

Yes it is. Actually its better. Mitek is legendary for their bulletproof build quality. MTX amps and subs are virtually indestructible and Xtant is no exception. Id stack up the new line against the old line anyday.

[Toxis]

I think Xtant is every bit as good if not better than they used to be.

MTX on the other hand might be as if not more durable than years past, the sound quality has taken a HUGE step down. Basically fell right off the ladder. Not to mention they're ugly as piss. Almost as bad as the PPI Penis series.

[killerb]

i had a new xtant amp and it took a crap in less than 6 months. my oldschool rockford punch 40, 60 and 200 amps are still in my girls car now. my carver amp is in my car and running my sr6500 set after 10 plus years. that is durability and build quality. most of these amps today are cheaply made paperweights. buy quality once and have it forever.

[MacLeod]

You mustve gotten a lemon.

As for MTX's sound quality, I dont see how MTX could be much better! Their signal to noise ratios are routinely in the 120's and they exceed their ratings by half with zero distortion! You cant ask anymore from an amp SQ wise than that.

[killerb]

i might have, but i will never buy another one. i wont have to with the amps i have now.

[Toxis]

As for MTX's sound quality, I dont see how MTX could be much better! Their signal to noise ratios are routinely in the 120's and they exceed their ratings by half with zero distortion! You cant ask anymore from an amp SQ wise than that.
Come on mac, you know better than this. Once you start looking at the stats that hardcore, you stopped listening to the amp. Period.

[MacLeod]

Those specs are hard to miss as theyre printed on each amps birthsheets!

[Greg Peters]

i have the sr124-dvc and am going to use my zapco c2k-3.0 rated at 600 watts into 2 ohm bridge. in real life it puts out about 700 watts. its expensive, but they are rock solid amps with a damping factor of over 1000 to really control cone movement.

So- how does it sound?

Waiting (im)patiently for an update on your opinion of the SR124-DVC.

[killerb]

it sounds breathtaking! super tight with great detail and it gets loud. i sold my jl12w7 to get this sub and i dont regret it at all. cant ask for anything more.

[Toxis]

how's it perform in output comparison to the Dub7?