An SDA Cultist Reviews The LSi9 (Long)

[DarqueKnight]

Why I Bought Another Pair of Speakers

There are four pairs of bookshelf speakers sitting in my garage: Polk RT 35, Polk RT55i, Fanfare Acoustics Prelude, and Polk SDA CRS+. Unfortunately, none of them coordinate as well as I would like with the cherry furniture in my new office at work. Hence, a pair of LSi9’s, in cherry, was purchased.

My original intent was to do an RT55i vs. SDA CRS+ vs. Lsi9 comparison. I expected the LSi9’s to only be an enhanced version of the RT55i’s. However, immediately after hooking up the LSi9’s, I realized their sonic signature was more a lineal descendant of the SDA sound than the RT line. I did hook up my RT55i’s for a quick comparison, but I quickly put them back in the garage. The RT55i was outclassed in every respect by the LSi9.

Listening Session Notes

I own three pairs of 1989 vintage CRS+ speakers. The first pair has modified crossover components and upgraded binding posts and is used as the center channel speaker in my home theater. The second pair is unmodified internally but was modified externally by being re-veneered in teak. The second pair is not currently in use. The third pair is used in my home office system and also has cabinets that were re-veneered in teak. Additionally, the crossovers of the third pair were modified with upgraded wire-wound resistors and polypropylene capacitors. The stock binding posts were replaced with Cardas tellurium copper posts. These modifications provide some improvements in imaging focus, midrange definition, and bass definition. The listening notes below are from a comparison of the LSi9 to the second pair of SDA CRS+’s with unmodified crossovers.

The speakers were spaced 10 feet apart and I was seated 10 feet from the center point between the speakers. The LSi9’s were toed in slightly, which improved the imaging focus a little. The LSi9’s tended to get a little boomy in the bass when placed close to the rear wall, therefore they were brought out into the room one and a half feet. The CRS+’s on the other hand, sounded best (in the bass region) when placed only five inches from the rear wall. The listening room was 17.5 feet by 20 feet with a 10 foot ceiling and hardwood floor. Speakers were placed along the long wall.

The gold plated binding straps of the LSi9 were replaced with 8 gauge stranded speaker wire. There is a small, but noticeable loss of high frequency information with the straps. I verified this by switching my preamp to mono mode, setting both speakers a couple of feet from each other, and playing some material with a lot of high frequency content (soprano saxophone, ride cymbals, etc.). The left speaker used the stock binding post straps. The right speaker's binding post straps were replaced with high quality stranded wire. While sitting in front of the speakers, I used the preamp remote control to shift the balance control back and forth between left and right. I do not understand why Polk continues to use these straps. They used to use stranded wire connecting straps on the SDA SRS series. I wish they would go back to those, at least for the LSi line. I will concede however, that most recordings (and a lot of electronic gear) are so rolled-off in the upper and lower registers that a difference may not be heard by some listeners.

Equipment used:

Adcom GFP-750 Preamp
Adcom GFA-5802 Power Amp
Denon DCD AR1650 CD Player
Yamaha PF-800 Turntable w/ Yamaha MC-705 moving coil cartridge
Monster Z2 Reference speaker cable
Monster Z100i interconnects for CD and turntable
Monster Z200i XLR interconnects for preamp and amp.
O'Sullivan Model 56011 28" Speaker Stands

The LSi9 sounded so much like the SDA CRS+ that I wondered if the sonic characteristics of the LSi9 were modeled after the CRS+ , or if it was just a (fortunate) coincidence. The LSi9 does not have the holographic imaging properties of the SDA CRS+, but it has excellent imaging properties and it is very close in timbre to the CRS+. So close, in fact, that it was difficult to tell them apart from the midrange up through the treble when I replaced one of the LSi9’s with a CRS+. Due to the LSi9's smaller, lighter drivers, I expect that their transient response and midrange detail will become noticeably better than the CRS+ as the drivers get more broken-in. Although, the LSi9's sounded so good right out of the box, I am wondering if Polk does any pre-conditioning (break-in) of the drivers prior to the speakers being packaged and shipped.

The bass of the CRS+ is more accurate, punchy, articulate and defined. The LSi9 has more impact (kick) and volume in the bass region. Much more than I expected, considering its size. I did not experience any imaging outside of the outer speaker sides with the LSi9. Depending on source recording, I was able to place instruments about one foot out from the front plane of the speakers. Depth was limited to about 4 feet behind the front plane of the speakers. In contrast, the CRS+ floated a soundstage that extended (depending on source recordings) up to 3 feet beyond the outer side edges of the speakers, 2 feet out from the front plane of the speakers, and 4 to 6 feet behind the front plane of the speakers.

There was no image height restriction with either the LSi9 or the CRS+. In other words, some sounds, particularly those mixed to be in the center, could be heard to apparently come from a well-defined point above the top plane of the speakers. For example, vocals seemed to come from where a person’s head would have been had they been standing in front of me. When standing in front of the LSi9’s and listening to Paul Desmond’s alto saxophone solo on “Take Five” (Dave Brubeck Quartet-“Time Out” CD), it sounded like Paul was standing in front of me playing his horn.

Some of the source material included in my listening session were (1) The Dave Brubeck Quartet, “Time Out”, track #3-Take Five, (2) Herbie Hancock, “Headhunters”, track #1-Chaeleon, (3) Miles Davis, “Kind of Blue”, track #1-So What, and (4) Sonny Rollins, “Saxophone Colossus”, track #2-You Don’t Know What Love Is.

The fit and finish of my pair was excellent. The gloss black piano finish on the top and bottom was smooth, deep, and without blemish. Same for the beveled wood side panels. I understand that Polk is discontinuing the beveled side panels for the LSi9. It’s a shame, I think the beveled panels have a more “high end” and contemporary look. Binding posts were the heaviest I’ve ever seen on a Polk speaker. The grille cloth was a very thin lightweight fabric, which saved me the time and cost of replacing it. I did remove the chintzy looking plastic “polkaudio” label from the bottom of the grille. It easily peeled off the dark gray oval disk it was attatched to. I thought that little plastic sticker was totally out of place on a speaker of this quality. ;)

It's a vicious cycle. Now I have to upgrade the electronics in my system at work.:mad:

[F1nut]

Nice review, just one question....why not re-veneer the CRS+'s in cherry? Maybe I missed something, but you seem to think the CRS+'s are the better speaker.

[har_navalta]

The second pair is unmodified internally but was modified externally by being re-veneered in teak. The second pair is not currently in use.

raife1,

Not currently in use... I want them, give them to me.
Anyway that was a nice Review between the CRS+ vs. LSi9's.



Har

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by F1nut
Nice review, just one question....why not re-veneer the CRS+'s in cherry?

I thought about re-veneering the CRS+'s in cherry. However, my office arrangement does not permit positioning the speakers for optimum imaging. Therefore, I would not be able to take full advantage of all that wonderful SDA imaging. Also, the LSi9 presents a less bulkier appearance. It does matter to me how a speaker looks.;)


Originally posted by F1nut
Maybe I missed something, but you seem to think the CRS+'s are the better speaker.

To me, which speaker is "better" depends on your listening preferences and the intended use of the speakers. For this particular application, in my office at work, the LSi9 is the better speaker. The CRS+'s beat the LSi9's in terms of soundstage presentation, imaging, and bass definition. However, I cannot take full advantage of that at work. I think a lot of people would find the CRS+ too "lean" in the bass and would prefer the sound of the LSi9.

For home use in a music-only system, I prefer the sound of the CRS+. For a home theater application, I think the LSi9 gives a more impressive presentation. For that reason, I am seriously considering replacing the SDA's in my home theater with LSi speakers (LSi9's for center, LSi15's for front and rear). If I do decide to do this, I will not be selling any surplus SDA's!:cool:

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by har_navalta
raife1, Not currently in use... I want them, give them to me. Har


Sorrrrrrrrrrrrrrrreeeeeeee. All unused SDA's go back into "inventory storage" for future use. :lol:

[F1nut]

raife1
Thanks for clearing that up. Makes sense, enjoy!

[har_navalta]

raife1,

You don't let any of your SDA's go, me too...






Har

[RuSsMaN]

Very well written, as usual. Thanks for your insights, I'm going to print this one and keep it......

Cheers,
Russ

[saganized]

Originally posted by raife1
[B]Why I Bought Another Pair of Speakers

The fit and finish of my pair was excellent. The gloss black piano finish on the top and bottom was smooth, deep, and without blemish. Same for the beveled wood side panels. I understand that Polk is discontinuing the beveled side panels for the LSi9. It’s a shame, I think the beveled panels have a more “high end” look. Binding posts were the heaviest I’ve ever seen on a Polk speaker. The grille cloth was a very thin lightweight fabric, which saved me the time and cost of replacing it. I did peal off the chintzy looking plastic “polkaudio” label from the bottom of the grille, though.;)

I agree completely with Raife. I haven't seen the LSi-9s; but the same comments apply to my cherry LSi-15s, especially regarding quality of fit. The word "incomparable" comes to mind, although that's a little unfair to other high-end speaker manufacturers.

I oiled the panels for the first time last weekend. While doing that, I was tempted to slide paper behind the panels (to keep from oiling the lacquer). It was then I noticed just how precise the fit is. There is only a sliver of open space between the panels and lacquer. The beautiful thing is it's CONSISTENT, all the way around, on both sides, on both speakers (and the serial numbers are 109 digits apart). That's great QC! I'd compare it to the seams on a quality automobile...when they're "right," you can feel them.

The outside woofer grills are perfectly flush with the surface of the wood. That makes it a little hard to keep the oil off the grills, so patience is needed!

Oh! I'd like to recommend Scott's Liquid Gold wood cleaner and preservative for the panels. A light coating, wiped clean, really brings out the wood grain, in addition to darkening the light cherry "just a tad." I've used Old English as well, but it just doesn't seem to work as good.

As for the plastic label, I left mine on although I agree they're a bit "chintzy" for speakers of this quality. After all, a Rolls-Royce should have a classic hood ornament.... ;)

The speakers definitely look as good as they sound.

[mantis]

That was an excellent post my freind,
The LSI series I feel Polk did a good job.The way you posted your feeling about the 2 speakers was classy.I respect that much.
Good work my friend and enjoy!!!!!
Dan

[F1nut]

Originally posted by saganized



Oh! I'd like to recommend Scott's Liquid Gold wood cleaner and preservative for the panels. A light coating, wiped clean, really brings out the wood grain, in addition to darkening the light cherry "just a tad." I've used Old English as well, but it just doesn't seem to work as good.



DO NOT USE any of those products, basically it's like applying motor oil to the finish. It builds up over time, attracts dust, dirt, grime and will become a sticky mess. You really shouldn't have to put anything at all on the wood as long as the finish is in good shape. None of those products will protect or prolong the life of the finish, in fact they harm it and shorten it's life span. If you feel the need to use a polish, I recommend Guardsman Furniture Polish, it's water based. No build up, no sticky mess and no harm. Those companies are making millions selling that crap. The worst is Pledge, contains silicone, which makes it a nightmare if the piece ever needs touch up work or refinishing. Those companies talk about moisturizing a finish. Well, you can't moisturize a finish. In fact one of the purposes of a finish is to keep moisture out!
How do I know all this....I restore/conserve period antique furniture for a living. I see way to many pieces of furniture damaged from using those products, so if you want to help me fund future upgrades then keep using that crap. Or you could save the money you'd pay someone like me to fix the mess that stuff creates and fund your own upgrades.

[saganized]

Concerning the Liquid Gold, I intend to follow the manufacturer's instructions by not applying the product too often.

Even the LSi Owner's Manual states, "The side panels of your new LSi Loudspeakers are finished in natural wood veneer. Clean these panels periodically with a soft cloth and furniture polish to remove dust and fingerprints."

I applied it liberally, once. I followed that by immediately wiping off all excess until the surface was dry.

After that initial application, I will dust the panels once every week or so with a clean, dry cloth. I certainly didn't intend to apply polish so often that it would begin to become "a sticky mess!"

Scott's Liquid Gold does not contain wax or silicones, which does tend to build up. Respectfully, from seeing what it's done for my parents' furniture, I believe it's a pretty darn good product.

[F1nut]

saganized

I'm not picking on you and of course it's your speakers/furniture, so you can do whatever you like. I was just trying to help and offer my professional opinion/experience to everyone here.
What most of those polishes contain are petroleum distillate (PD for short), which in most cases means mineral oil. The PD can actually break down the finish over a period of time. If you had two matching pieces of wood and just cleaned one with a DAMP cloth, then the other with a polish containing PD for say five years you would be amazed at the difference. The one cleaned with a DAMP cloth will look as it did when new. The polished one will be darker and appear muddy in comparison. I say DAMP cloth, because if you use a dry one it just puts dust back into the air and then back on your furniture. Also, a dry cloth is more likely to scratch the finish (which is one reason manufacturers suggest using a polish), but in this day and age we now have water based polishes which are ok to use. As for the owners manual, it should suggest a water based polish, if at all.
Again, this is just my educated experience, but having studied this for the past 25 years I can tell you any restorer of worth will agree on these facts.
I do agree that if you use any kind of polish, it should only be done about once a year and not weekly as many people do. The DAMP cloth is best.

Enjoy your Polks!

[mantis]

This post just gets better and better,
I love the tips on cleaning/polishing finishes.I have use many different types of furniture polishes including Pledge.My Polks shine with grace,looking perfect.They shine real nice with the wood grain standing out.
The silicone thing is a good point,veryhard to get rid of and harder to repair.
Id like to try the Guardsman furniture polish.I will look for it when I need more polish.
I applaud you (F1nut) coming forth as a professional.Personally I like tips and are willing to try yours out.
Dan

[saganized]

Originally posted by F1nut

Again, this is just my educated experience, but having studied this for the past 25 years I can tell you any restorer of worth will agree on these facts.
I do agree that if you use any kind of polish, it should only be done about once a year and not weekly as many people do. The DAMP cloth is best.

Enjoy your Polks!

Thanks, F1nut, I appreciate your response. Oops, I did say "clean, dry cloth," didn't I? Of course you're right; the cloth should be damp (I should have said "wrung dry"). The point I was trying to make in that reply--in which I failed miserably--was just to say I wasn't going to polish weekly.

I didn't think you were pickin' on me...unfortunately, I sometimes type faster than I think (typing fast is MY profession). ;) As you are a professional woodworker, I figured you might have a strong opinion "for" or "against" certain polishes, or even "not to polish at all."

Like Mantis, I appreciate the tips, too. Tips coming from a "professional" do carry more weight. ;)

[pvabeach]

I am williing to part with my Original SDA 1's . Too big for any other placement in my house.
(just got LSI 25'S, Center and LSI FX's.
Anyone willing to pick them up in VaBeach , Va can have them for $300. Have manuel and cable. Paul

[F1nut]

pvabeach

Try posting that one in the Flea Market Forum and if you've got a picture post that too.

[nascarmann]

I am williing to part with my Original SDA 1's . Too big for any other placement in my house.


Anyone willing to pick them up in VaBeach , Va can have them for $300. Have manuel and cable. Paul

I'm on my way.....email me here (ksr999@earthlink.net)

[mantis]

Pvabeach,
So how do you like the lsi25's??I heard nothing but good things about them.
even from non liking powered tower people,raved about them.
Come on man post your thoughts on the giant lsi25's.

I really want to know.
Dan

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

WOW I am like sooo impressed with this thread. Seriously guys, Raife1 did an excellent job with his listening report, and big thanks to F1Nut about the furniture polish issue. It is great to have a real expert on hand to set us straight. But I chime in just to clear up one little point - Raife mentions that we are discontinuing the "beveled wood side panels." Not so. The side panels have not and will not change in any way. The earliest LSi had a beveled top and bottom on the high gloss portion of the cabinet that proved very hard to execute with consistent fit & finish. We simply went to a totally flat top and bottom. Personally I like the flat better but it is a moot point because it is a done deed. Here is a photo of a bevel top. I'll post a photo of a flat top (I can;t figure out how to paste in two).
:confused:

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

the flat top

[rskarvan]

Raife,

How do you go about re-veneering a CRS speaker?
Seems to me that the bottom wood panel under the
cloth would be very difficult to do.

I'd love to reveener my CRS's. But, I have no clue as to
where to begin. Suggestions?

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by "Polk" Paul DiComo
Raife mentions that we are discontinuing the "beveled wood side panels."

Opppsss....I didn't say exactly what I meant to say. I should have said that the beveled tops of the wood side panels were being discontinued rather than the whole beveled side panels. Thanks for clarifying that Paul.:cool:

When I read Paul's post a while back mentioning the discontinuance of the beveled panels, I understood that the bevel was going away and not the whole wood panel.

Will the bevels still be continued on the LSi15 side panels?

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

I can see that I need to take more revealing photos. The bevel on the wood panel stays on all models. The bevel that I refer to is on the high gloss under-cabinet. Let me grab the Nikon and take some better photos just to make sure everyone gets the point.

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by rskarvan
Raife,

How do you go about re-veneering a CRS speaker?


Ron,

I took mine to a cabinet shop. A 4' x 8' sheet of 1/16" thick teak veneer cost $100. That was enough to do two pairs of CRS+'s.

The cabinet maker charged $250 for the labor involved in re-veneering, staining, and finishing both pairs of speakers. The cabinet maker made duplicates of the wood "ledges" under the grille panels from a piece of solid teak board that he already had.

I will go back in the near future and edit my post to include pics of the speakers.

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by "Polk" Paul DiComo
The bevel that I refer to is on the high gloss under-cabinet.

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhh ok. Now I understand. Yeah, my LSi9's have a perfectly flat top.:cool:

[F1nut]

Originally posted by rskarvan
How do you go about re-veneering a CRS speaker?
Suggestions?

Since I do this for a living, my advice is take it to a professional cabinetmaker/restorer. To do it right takes alot of knowledge and the right tools. BTW, the price raife1 quoted is really cheap (as in good deal) for all that work, I would charge considerably more.

[F1nut]

"Polk" Paul DiComo

Thanks for the nod. I have a question for you or your fellow Polk experts. I would like to know how to remove the top and bottom oak veneered end caps on my 2.3TL's. I would also like to remove the cloth covered side panels. My reason for asking is that I want to re-veneer the end caps in cherry and I need to replace the cloth material as it has some damage (damn cat!!!). I really don't want to do the veneer work with the end caps in place as this increases possible damage to the drivers. I would be deeply grateful for any help with this.

Jesse
aka F1nut

[Frank Z]

Try listening to the title track on the Shadowfax CD "Shadowdance" and "Brown Rice". Talk about a full sound stage and imaging, you'll be amazed. I've had this CD for about 14-15 years and was amazed that it sounded better than ever on my lsi7's. I wish the #%^^# 15's would get here!

[nascarmann]

F1nut

I think there are 4 screws inside the cab's that screw into the caps to hold them in place.....This is what I have heard and the side panels are glued on....

[DarqueKnight]

Originally posted by F1nut
I really don't want to do the veneer work with the end caps in place as this increases possible damage to the drivers.

That reminds me, I forgot to mention that I removed the drivers, grilles, crossovers, and binding posts from the cabinets. All I delivered to the cabinet shop was empty cabinets.:cool:

[nascarmann]

F1nut

The end caps shouldn't be veneered. If they are this happened later on....

[DarqueKnight]

That's right. The end caps are solid wood. I have never looked inside of a pair of 2.3's, but when I removed the passive radiator from my 1.2TL's, I could see four nuts and bolts in the bottom of the cabinet. I assumed they were there to hold the bottom end caps on.

[nascarmann]

OK.....4 nuts and bolts.....not screws....

[F1nut]

nascarmann,

No, you misunderstood me. I want to re-veneer the original oak end caps with cherry veneer. Screws and glue, great. Any idea how to get inside? Does the back come off or do you go in though the driver holes?

[F1nut]

OH, I've got it. The ends are solid wood with veneer banding.

[nascarmann]

Throught the holes.....

[F1nut]

Thanks!!!

[nascarmann]

The ends are solid wood with veneer banding

There shouln't be any veneer on them....should be one solid peice of oak....

[F1nut]

The grain tells me otherwise. What I mean is the edge has to be veneer banding, it's the only way to get it to look like it does. But, I understand what you told me about the solid wood. Cool!

[nascarmann]

Party on Garth.....:lol:

[F1nut]

Garth?????

[nascarmann]

OK.....party on Wayne.....

[F1nut]

LOL.....I'm with ya bro!

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

OK, I took some new pix of original and new style LSi tops just to make sure everyone gets it.

Now for Jesse's questions about removing tops bottoms and side panels of SRS - To remove the top and bottom, remove the top 6.5" drivers to get access to the bolts that hold the panels on. The side panels were attached with hot melt glue and will be tricky to get off without breaking the wood frame. Try sliding in a putty knife along the edges to break the glue bead then try to pry the frame off. If worse comes to worst, and you break the frame, it would not be that big of a deal to make a new frame if you have access to a table saw and a router.

This photo is an original beveled top.

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

and here is a new flat top. That is a LSi9 on the left and a LSi15 on the right.

Does anyone know how to attach 2 images to one post? You'd think I'd know but noooooo.

[DarqueKnight]

Yeah, I can see how that beveled top was a bitch to manufacture. Plus, the bevleled top has kind of a "chunky" look to it.

I like the look of the flat top better.

[F1nut]

"Polk" Paul DiComo,

My thanks to you, nascarmann & raife1 for all the help. As soon as I find the time (the shop is full) I'll get to work. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

[jrausch]

I have the first version of the 15’s and this is what I see. The first version tops look like they were covered with a Formica style ebony gloss finish and then cut with a saw and pieced together. You can see the chip marks on the edges from the saw and hairline gaps that don’t match. The issue is one that needs a close examination of the speakers, but does not take away the beauty of the design. You guys should have hired a German carpenter to help out with the fit and finish. I do think the new one looks better in a clean way. If I’m lucky, I’ll have one of those rare sets that might be worth more money some day. :lol:

[mantis]

Paul,
is the entire line getting a facelift?
Or just the book shelf models?
Can you post larger pics.One of old design and then one of new design again...Please,
thanks,
Dan

[mantis]

Alright,
after looking at the pic's,
I think I get it.Was all the lsi's like that that?
The flat top is clean but I see why you guys wanted the edges like that..looks good both ways.

[jrausch]

I tried to take some pictures of mine, but the glossy finish makes it hard to focus in and get a clean image of the lines.

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

Yes Mantis, all of the models are switching to the flat top look (second photo). We have some of both styles in stock and I imagine dealers have a mix also. But the plan is to go entirely to the flat style.

Here are bigger photos for geezers with bad eyesight (like me)

["Polk" Paul DiComo]

And here is the flat version

[TroyD]

Dan,

Did you get the new or the old tops? I think I'd prefer the flat. I bet they sound SA-WEET with your Rotel rig.....Man, where you located? I'm on my way to Maine on Thursday, I'd like to get a demo of that!

BDT

[RuSsMaN]

That'd be sweet man, see Dan's place, get an LSi demo....

Maybe even Aaron could tag along....

[mantis]

When the new house is finished being built,
anyone who wants to come over for a complete demo..is Invited...The Rotel is awesome....I can't get enough of it.
I was saving for a big bang post about my speakers.I will post all about the Rotel, and what I ended up buying for my new rig......so far it's coming together just right.I'm so pumped to listen everyday.
Buying new gear is so.......well I'm gonna leave it at that.....Wait for my complete post......this should be my very best post incoming.
I will say this much.......flat tops.

[RuSsMaN]

**** Dan, is your house going to be done this weekend? Troy doesn't care if your staying in a shantee, let him come by and hear your new toys.....

What freakin builder do you have? I've never heard of a house taking so long. The banks won't stand for it, and when you put down your escrow money, they should give you a rough completion date. (they will firm up that date about 45 days from closing)

Most reputable builders will knock it out in 6 months or less. Something doesn't seem quite right here......I'm not antagonizing, just curious......

Cheers,
Russ

[TroyD]

Hell, I don't care if home is garbage dumpster with that kind of gear.....

You can bet even if I was homeless, I'd be the only mofo pushing his DQ's and Carver's in a shopping cart...

That does make me wonder though, even with a construction loan, you got a year to get it done. Man, I couldn't take it, I want **** done NOW!

BDT

[mantis]

Thanks for the concern guys,
Mrs Mantis ,the kids and my self have been waiting over a year for the house to be built.Today was a great day ..my basement got poured.I'm so juiced.
I purched the house last March 2001.The house was suppost to be done by December 2001.The latest the house was suppost to be completed was April 30 2002.It's now August 6 2002 and I have a big hole in the ground,water drain and now basement walls.
I'm sick to my stomach over this entire build.There is 18 houses going up.I'm the 5th one to be completed.
I wanted to get out of the deal a long time ago, but Mrs Mantis wants this house and I stuck by her.It's the perfect house for my family.Not to mention I had the basement raised up to 9 feet from 8 feet in order to build the ultimate man cave.I think I posted before but I will have an office which will in turn be a 2 channel room,a theater room,with a raiser,screen and projector.Inbetween the theater and my office,I'm building a gear room and software room.Inside will house my entire multiroom audio system.Speakers in every room of the house including outdoors and the garage.
We had so many problems..my builder by the way is JTC DEVELOPMENT.It all started with this water rolloff problem,the engineers had to redesign the water drain off 3 times and took 8 months....my lot was trees and grass....and trash.I was fit to be tied.Then this lady in the exsisting neighborhood didn't want the build to happen..we all had to go to court and fight for our houses to be built....How much can it suck.Now after all is said and done.....they are building.Pouring all the basements on my side of the street ,then building/finishing them as per contract.
My upgrades have been on the back burner as Mrs Mantis didn't want me 2 drop all that cash untill the entire house thing was over.She is all for it..she even bought me a 1900's popcorn machine and cart...hot popper.Has the butter thing and everything...So cool.I got 2 mid alantic racks sitting on my back pourch waiting for gear to sit on there shelves.
I live outside of Philly Just North.
TroyD,
where are you coming from,I see your going to Maine...thats about 10 hours or so from me.I think..I can be in CT in about 4 and a half.New York City is about a hour away.And New Jersey is about 5 min away.

[RuSsMaN]

I can't find any info on 'JTC Development', do they have a website you know of?

Cheers,
Russ

[TroyD]

Man, that sucks. There is no way I would put up with that. I would have walked a long time ago.


BDT

[mantis]

It does suck and no they don't have a web site.
My wife loves the house...so do I.Everything is finally coming together.The basement walls are dry...

My lsi 15's are flat top design,and the woofers are mounted differently then the ones on the speaker pages.If you look at the drivers there the straight egde is running along with the tweeter.Mine is rounded at the tweeter side and straight at the sides of the cabnet.If I had a digital camera,I would take a pic.I'll borrow Liv4fams and snap some pics.

[TroyD]

Cool Dan, best of luck on the house, you have more patience than I do.....

At some point in my travels, I'd love to stop in and check out your rigs.....that is as long as you and liv4fam don't dice me up with boxcutters and kick me in the ballbag. :D

BDT

[mantis]

LOL.....he just lives down the road about 5 mins away..if you want to meet him.....We don't own box cutters just drywall saws,well baybe a razor blade knife or 2....but.......
my rig is cool right now..funny how I have put Home Theater on the back burner for now.I watched the Lord of the rings lastnight,moving around speakers justs sucks.Good movie anyway.

[RuSsMaN]

So whats the deal Troy, are you gonna pop-in for a quick demo or what?

[TroyD]

I'd like to but on the way up, we are going to pass through NJ midday, on the way back though, he's pretty close to Casa Grande.

BDT