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View Full Version : Stripping the vinyl veneer off monitor 10's



athos56
12-17-2006, 06:17 PM
Anybody have any ideas on stripping the vinyl veneer off of some monitor 10's? I experimented on an extra 5jr I had and it seems like a chore with just a razor blade.

BlueMDPicker
12-17-2006, 06:20 PM
You'll need a heat gun to release the adhesive. Good luck!

athos56
12-17-2006, 06:37 PM
ahh a heatgun, and then it will just peel off or will some razor work still be nessesary? Thanks

F1nut
12-17-2006, 06:56 PM
Heat a little area at a time, peel back the loose stuff and repeat until done. No razor needed.

ben62670
12-18-2006, 12:31 AM
ditto ditto ditto...
let the heat do the work... if the vinyl tears a razor blade does help get you going again
I personally like to get the vinyl nice and soft.. start with a corner away from you and pull the vinyl back over itself... I suck at putting things into words basically what i am trying to convey is that the finish sides of the vinyl almost touch as you pull it off. Avoid the temptation of rocking the vinyl side to side it can stretch the material and make it more prone to rip. take your time and keep it warm. a hairdryer will work if its a hot one. you can even pre heat the vinyl with a clothes iron to get it going .
Good luck let us know how you made out.
Ben

Crispycircuit
01-15-2007, 03:55 AM
I'm very curious on how this goes. Are you recovering, painting, ??? I hope the adheasive comes off.... Keep us posted.....

wanders
07-22-2011, 07:06 PM
I've had good luck veneering a couple of pieces, recently a Pioneer PL-570 turntable. Used paper backed veneer and heat activated adhesive. On the Pioneer the vinyl peeled off fairly easily; hard work but no heat needed.

I'm now thinking of veneering a set of Monitor 10s. Most advice calls for heating and stripping the existing vinyl.

Question, what's wrong with just sanding the existing vinyl to get adhesion then putting the wood veneer over the vinyl?

Would appreciate opinions.

F1nut
07-22-2011, 07:13 PM
Question, what's wrong with just sanding the existing vinyl to get adhesion then putting the wood veneer over the vinyl?

Bad idea. The glues used for wood veneer are not designed to adhere to plastics.

wanders
07-23-2011, 10:30 PM
Bad idea. The glues used for wood veneer are not designed to adhere to plastics.

Thanks for the advice, F1. Also, ironing on new veneer could heat and loosen the underlying vinyl if it's left on.

Question: How tough is it stripping the vinyl using the heat gun? And, how much glue residue is left to deal with?

F1nut
07-24-2011, 02:45 AM
See post #4.

Not much, scuff sanding should be all that's needed.

saemark30
07-28-2011, 05:41 PM
Does your vinyl veneer look like artificial rosewood?
Mime scratches way too easily.
What type of veneer is suitable or recommended?

Joe08867
07-28-2011, 05:56 PM
lostsgtlfacph reported

How do you even say that?

wanders
07-29-2011, 01:43 PM
Does your vinyl veneer look like artificial rosewood?
Mime scratches way too easily.
What type of veneer is suitable or recommended?

I think mine are dark walnut; I've seen pictures of Polk's rosewood vinyl veneer and it looks more fake than the walnut. Choice of veneer is up to your taste. Walnut or teak will take oil finishes which you could do yourself. Rosewood veneer is much more expensive than walnut; also, it is very oily and needs a high gloss, spray, lacquer finish. It's tough to achieve satisfactory results with a spray can, that's best left to a professional.

There is some veneering information on this forum; and lots of information on the AudioKarma forum.