New WoodShed constuction under way

[reeltrouble1]

The new Shed bones are going up. I have used 2x6 floor and top plates. The studs are set on 16" centers, alternating both the back and the front of the wall, the walls actually float off the main block wall to provide isolation from the sturcture. I will use two sheets of drywall to provide mass.

So I can either run the sound insulation vertically alternating with one run in front of the stud and the next behind or I could weave the insulation between the studs sideways. Any thoughts?

I have attached a couple of shots. Please look below as the original links were doa.

RT1

[heiney9]

Linky no good

[Ricardo]

I am also going to use two sheets of drywall in my new audio room; will put "green glue" between them for soundproofing.

http://www.greengluecompany.com/

If you're interested I can put you in contact with someone that can give you a small discount.

[engtaz]

the links are not valid

[zombie boy 2000]

Those links are like the mighty Excalibur. Who among us is worthy to pull those pics from the stone? I, for one, am not.....

[reeltrouble1]

OK, maybe these will work, strange how I can see the links and no one else can, must be an individual pm box thing.

RT1

[madmax]

Thats a good way to make a wall between rooms (the offset 2x4's seperate the two walls) but given the block wall behind it I don't see what it buys you unless you put a piece of drywall on the back side too. I would wrap the insulation through the maze.
madmax

Edit: BTW, congrats on starting the new room!!!

[disneyjoe7]

Agree with MadMax I don't see a benefit of doing the 2x4 on a 2x6 plate thingy on a CB wall. But all in all no harm just a little more work for your self. :)


BTW that room may never look the way I remembered it. ;)

[reeltrouble1]

MM and DJ, yes, I could of put another sheet of drywall on the back, however an "expert" installer who does this for a living in my area said it would not give much if any benefit and unless I put two sheets on the back forget about it as the sound that gets to the drywall along with normal settling could pop a screw, stress the gule, and make something that will vibrate which I have no access to, of course, its a point taken.

The studs are not attached to the block, they float off of it a bit. I was told this is important, isolating the room from the main structure. I was told the staggering of the studs would allow for the weaving of the sound insulation which would help with vibration as the extra studs make the wall more rigid and the weaving breaks up the sound, but what do I know???

I was told to use two sheets of drywall on the front with the green glue stuff for sound asorbtion. Anyway, the two walls that are up are staying as they are. I still have to build the wall that will have the speakers on it, which I believe is most critical, I will have a sheet of drywall on the "backside" as well as the two on front. I will have access to this "backside" as it will hide the stairwell on the other side. So I can get to it if a screw or the glue ever "pops".

From what I have read, reducing/eliminating any holes or opening in the room is most critical. Apparently reducing the ambient level of noise in the room from other areas is just as important as keeping the sounds properly disbursed in the room. My expert friend explained some way to make the panels for the walls, but I need written instructions. Or just buy them.

It has already been a learning experience, thanks for the tips, please keep them coming, this is not my strong suit. I think I am going to actually do an HT on one wall and 2 channel on another so I will need tons of videophile help as I basically am a neophite in higher end video gear. I envision a carousel which rotates so you can easily change the seating positions, but have to think about this one.

Edit,

DJ I am not eliminating the existing Woodshed, that room will likely become my music studio for keyboard/guitar and maybe my weights, this room is going in the storage area we had just outside the Shed.

RT1

[madmax]

Glue and screw the drywall! OR, they make this cool way to connect a strip to the wood then the other side to the drywall which actually keeps the drywall from contacting the wood. Don't even remember what it looks like but I heard about it on some homebuilding show.

[Ricardo]

OR, they make this cool way to connect a strip to the wood then the other side to the drywall which actually keeps the drywall from contacting the wood. Don't even remember what it looks like but I heard about it on some homebuilding show.


Probably something like this:

http://www.asc-soundproof.com/index-isowall.htm

Double drywall with green glue is supposed to give about the same benefit for less.

[stereo_luver]

OK...I aint' gonna bust a bubble here, but after 20 years of construction I could make a few comments on the subject. I can't comment on the green sound insulation and double walled drywall. I can tell you that there are other ways to achieve what you are looking for. Owens Corning and Mansfield makes nice sound batt insulation. I've used both in auditoriums, offices, courtrooms etc. If the block is on the exterior be sure to use DryLock or BlockFill before covering. A layer of foam board insulation between the block and studs will add R value as well as extra sound absorbsion. Oh what the hell I could go on and on but I won't. This is your project and this is only my opinion.

[schwarcw]

I agree with stereo luver on the Drylock, but I think it's too late for that. I don't like most foam boards as they make a great media for bacteria and mold growth. Looking good RT! Good luck! I'd like to know more about your wiring plans! Both speaker and power.

[disneyjoe7]

Ted, maybe able to add Drylock using a hotdog roller behind studs? I believe he stated they're not mounted to wall.

[reeltrouble1]

I see no reason for drylock, this area is above ground not below, these walls have never displayed a drop of moisture. I could use both R-value and Sound Insulation in the stud cavities, although the r-value might be lowered a bit, I have a little less than 7" from the front of the top and bottom plates to the actual block. If I do this I could place plastic visquene (sp) behind the studs on the block wall?? My concern is that when the warm and cool air somehow meet the condesation does not become a problem.

Remember this is Georgia, deep south Georgia, as in you'all, as in fried chicken, homney grits, where a garden hose is a "pipe" where dinner is at lunch. OK the climate is mild, cooling the shed in the summer is the major concern as you need heat about 45 days or so in an entire year. You need nothing about 4 months, and cool air the rest of the time, however, these rooms are naturally cooler than the rest of the home because of shading and location, as the lowest level well, hot air rises and all that. I could just open the door to the shed and the unit in that room also handle the new room, but its not my favorite option although it will save some dough.

The present shed is adjacent to this new one, it has standard construction, studs over block wall, pink insulation, never had any moisture problems besides once the air conditioner (hotel style) leaked a bit and was easily repaired.

Stero Luver, when you coming to put the elevator in.........waaaaaa

Whadda mean wires, I need wires??? We have decided to remove the ceiling drywall, use sound insulation in the ceiling instead of dropping down with a false ceiling, so I will wire in the ceiling where practicle. I will do some sofets along the walls for lighting and wire runs, maybe some columns (sp) for wire and speakers, its going to primary 2-channel with an HT thrown in for fun, I am thinking in walls for the HT, of course POLK in walls.

Are there cool ceiling tiles I can use to dress things up a bit?

Next great paradox.

If the Woodshed Rig was to sit in the Reel Time Theater, what in the hell do I call the whole shebang!!!!!!!

Is this a paradox??????????

dont worry about stating opinions, that is what I want, member ideas and thoughts, dont worry as usual I have plenty of my own. If I am wrong about the drylock then tell me why?

[schwarcw]

If your above grade then you won't need any Drylock. I saw the concrete block and assumed below grade. I still don't like the foam, once you get a little bacteria or mold in there, it won't go away. It's much less of a problem with fibreglass.

Are you going to use some PS Audio outlets or some heavy duty types (Post a link)? Are you using a new power line from the breaker? Maybe something with an isolated ground? Standard 14 guage Romex or 12 guage for 20 amp service?

I'm sorry, I'm an engineer and I like the details:D

[madmax]

I'm thinking if you are above ground the only thing dryloc could do is trap moisture. Not that it would.
madmax

[reeltrouble1]

I am a creator I don't which explains why after 2 years of EE I changed majors, but fortunately there are great folks like yourself to help my weakness. This room is already wired with a seperate 20 amp service to the outlets, I will change the outlets (hubbel, psa, etc) to high quality 20 amp, right now they are 20 amp GFI plugs, as in should a Hurricane come its bad news for the Shed. Our last hurricance CAT 3 was over 65 years ago, either we are due or its just not happening.

The existing lighting has its own circuit, also 20 amp, it could be that since this was initially a huge garage 20 amp is code here. I have yet to determine which wire I will use for speaker runs, most likely 14 guage for the HT which I am thinking will be in-walls, with all the gear hidden in a closet. The 2-channel will be a traditional hi-fi set up, you know big wire, go big or dont go.

RT1

[strider]

Those outlets are so damn expensive, would you see any drawbacks to getting a high quality "hospital grade" outlet from a non-audio source?

[reeltrouble1]

Well, I am finding some sound products which are different than usual. 1/8" in thickness but very dense to absorb sound anybody ever use this??
You glue/nail it to the studs over traditional insulation, then you hang the drywall using those clips MM mentioned.

RT1

[SCompRacer]

I'm sorry, I'm an engineer and I like the details:D

Since Ted hasn't mentioned using it, what are your thoughts of isolated ground circuits? Lots of debate about it, both ways. Waste of wire, not needed in a home, etc. Some say it should actually be called insulated ground. I installed a seperate 20 amp isolated ground for my two channel using all pipe, though code here allows for N/M wire in closed walls/ceilings. I've read that some use 12/3 N/M wire for isolated ground circuits. You just have to tag the Red conductor with green tape to indicate that it is used for a ground.

High marks on your project Ted!

[schwarcw]

. . . what are your thoughts of isolated ground circuits?

This is exactly what I was wondering about. I have a 12/4 wire waiting for me to upgrade my entry service and install two 20 amp breakers. I've got another A21 coming tomorrow and I need "mo paerrrr"!

[reeltrouble1]

Since Ted hasn't mentioned using it, what are your thoughts of isolated ground circuits? Lots of debate about it, both ways. Waste of wire, not needed in a home, etc. Some say it should actually be called insulated ground. I installed a seperate 20 amp isolated ground for my two channel using all pipe, though code here allows for N/M wire in closed walls/ceilings. I've read that some use 12/3 N/M wire for isolated ground circuits. You just have to tag the Red conductor with green tape to indicate that it is used for a ground.

High marks on your project Ted!

The 20 amp power line in the new shed is all pipe from the box, I am trying to use it as my power source as is to hold down the overall costs a bit, not so sure about high marks, I am in the more I learn/less I know phase, just trying to sift through the snake oil and prime applications of sound engineering.

RT1

[SCompRacer]

You are seeking the proper path so high marks are in order. I was considering building a listening room in the basement. Dear wife would support that and even help to get the gear out of the living room. However, after spending a year completing the 40’ x 14’ lighted lower level, I made a promise to myself. To paraphrase Chief Joseph, I declared I will build no more forever…

So you have one 20 amp circuit for the outlets and one 20 amp for the lighting? What kind of lighting fixtures? Will Ted be hanging wallboard with volunteers or paying someone to do it?

[disneyjoe7]

Isolated ground circuit for a residential house? I have one where I work but we're talking electronics that would buy everyone's equipment on this board, 70 mil or so we're talking. Is there such a thing for homes? Confused.

[hearingimpared]

MM and DJ, yes, I could of put another sheet of drywall on the back, however an "expert" installer who does this for a living in my area said it would not give much if any benefit and unless I put two sheets on the back forget about it as the sound that gets to the drywall along with normal settling could pop a screw, stress the gule, and make something that will vibrate which I have no access to, of course, its a point taken.

The studs are not attached to the block, they float off of it a bit. I was told this is important, isolating the room from the main structure. I was told the staggering of the studs would allow for the weaving of the sound insulation which would help with vibration as the extra studs make the wall more rigid and the weaving breaks up the sound, but what do I know???

I was told to use two sheets of drywall on the front with the green glue stuff for sound asorbtion. Anyway, the two walls that are up are staying as they are. I still have to build the wall that will have the speakers on it, which I believe is most critical, I will have a sheet of drywall on the "backside" as well as the two on front. I will have access to this "backside" as it will hide the stairwell on the other side. So I can get to it if a screw or the glue ever "pops".

From what I have read, reducing/eliminating any holes or opening in the room is most critical. Apparently reducing the ambient level of noise in the room from other areas is just as important as keeping the sounds properly disbursed in the room. My expert friend explained some way to make the panels for the walls, but I need written instructions. Or just buy them.

It has already been a learning experience, thanks for the tips, please keep them coming, this is not my strong suit. I think I am going to actually do an HT on one wall and 2 channel on another so I will need tons of videophile help as I basically am a neophite in higher end video gear. I envision a carousel which rotates so you can easily change the seating positions, but have to think about this one.

Edit,

DJ I am not eliminating the existing Woodshed, that room will likely become my music studio for keyboard/guitar and maybe my weights, this room is going in the storage area we had just outside the Shed.

RT1

I've heard of room treatments but this brings it up a whole new level. LOL

[hearingimpared]

I'm getting some wood here reading about all the possibilities of tweaking my friggin house!!!

[TroyD]

Ted, Ted, Ted.....You had me right up until you mentioned HT.

Blasphemy, man, BLASPHEMY. Surround gear in the same room as the BAT? Vladmir would have your head on a pike quicker than you could say borscht, comrade.

BDT

[SCompRacer]

Isolated ground circuit for a residential house?
The residential isolated ground is not as extensive as your industrial applications. In residential, you use the Orange isolated ground outlet and run a separate ground wire from it to the main panel. With a standard outlet, the ground lugs are connected to the yoke (the yoke being the mounting bracket of the outlet that you screw to the box). The ground lugs are not connected to the yoke on the Orange colored outlets so you need the additional wire to properly ground it.

If you use a separate ground wire with a regular outlet, it is just referred to as a redundant ground to the conduit or the bare ground wire in Romex. The big “if” word comes into play with conduit or Romex grounds. If the conduit is loose at a coupling or at the box, you can have a poor ground. Romex ground wires are usually attached to metal boxes with a spring type clip, unless local code requires it to be screwed. If the clip isn’t tight, you can have a poor ground.

[reeltrouble1]

Ted, Ted, Ted.....You had me right up until you mentioned HT.

Blasphemy, man, BLASPHEMY. Surround gear in the same room as the BAT? Vladmir would have your head on a pike quicker than you could say borscht, comrade.

BDT

waaaaaaa, yes my good friend, it does nag at me, I originally envisioned two totally seperate rigs in the room, but I just cannot really know if I will be able to work the sound out until I try it. If it will not work then the WoodShed will just remain in the existing room you know with the new room dubbed the Reel Time Theater. The sound problems may occur after the walls are up with the acoustical tiles I will build at reflection points. The outside of the walls will have an acoustical panel starting at the floor to ear level on all the side walls. The front and back walls will get appropriate treatments. I am going to use Polk in-walls for the HT, so the SRS may just be moved to the room as two channel and use the Dodd MLP plus other gear I GET TO BUY!!!! You know TUBE AMPS, TUBE SOURCE!!!!! Oh yea and since I will have an extra pair of Amazings........ok you get the idea, I have not fully made my mind up.

Rich thanks for the lesson, I will consider the possibilites of isolating the ground from the box, my box is already a tidy thing which was added in addition to the original service, a short distance would need to be run to isolate the ground. I presently have a 300 amp service to my home.

The lighting, well, I am thinking of the ceiling fan for air movement with a dimmer for the lights it will have. I will build sofets along the outer walls for a lighting system. Do I need to pull other wire for some computer thing of the future??

My labor pool:

#1 son "mr. inside" is a carpenter/drywall expert, he can do amazing things with mud, makes me look like a two year old with play dough. He is actually building the new shed, sans electrical, which I will do most and will contract a bit.

#2 son is dubbed "mr. outside", he is responsible for maintaing the outside of the home, however, he is no slouch at construction having spent some time in his younger years around a sinker nails.

#3 son-in-law "pea brain" is offsite, however, he is an EE and is responsible for such EE things and anything else I say.

Now #1 son #2 son and pea brain do not ever wish to really upset poppa-son as he holds things they all want after the big dirt nap, enter little-son the wild card and #1 grandson, waaaaa.........I will get a nice shed, ok, we are family.


What do I do??? well, I "research" ideas with you guys, my contribution is what I know, not what I do, well ok, somedays I just have to get my hands on the hammer until #1 son starts laughing to much, if you watch American Chopper and Paulie with his Dad you get the picture.

So keep helping me with the research, in the end it will be a fine listening room for ole RT1 and friends to relax in, listen to music, enjoy family and reflect about the meaning of life and think about women....

Thanks be to be God.

RT1

[stereo_luver]

Thin your Drylock with acetone or denatured alkyhol....spray in layers. Suspend the drywall with a shaft design...shaftwall constrction that lets the 1 1/4" drywall float between the studs. Final layer with 5/8" and use GSP Metal Beadlock. Think of floating a layer of sprayed expandable foam in the first 1 1/2" of studs for R-Value and absorbsion. Make layers of 1/4" thick cubed plywood set on 1'-4" squares run on transposed alternating patterns stuffed with Corning or Mansfield Soundbatt leaving 3 1/2" or air space at a min.

As reported before...this is only my opinion and experience in this application of construction practice for Courtrooms, Recording Studios, Theaters and the such. Please visit your local RAVE Cinemas, Deff Records, Commedore's Recordings or Charmichael Theaters and rip a hole in the wall to investigate the construction of the site. DO NOT go to your local Courthoue and try this!! :-)

[stereo_luver]

I'm thinking if you are above ground the only thing dryloc could do is trap moisture. Not that it would.
madmax


Sorry if I'm not understanding this in a whole...but anytime you use CMU it would be a nessasary to use a Dylock type material to prevent moisture absorbion INSIDE the occupied space. Above ground or not. Just my opinion and practice. Should I be wrong in this please advise me of the nature of my fault. (Don't mean to sound like an ass)....Speel check please...LOL

[madmax]

but anytime you use CMU it would be a nessasary to use a Dylock type material to prevent moisture absorbion INSIDE the occupied space. Above ground or not. Just my opinion and practice. LOL

I'm sure you know more about it than I do. (I'm strictly an electronics guy). :D My thought was if it was above ground the dryloc may trap in more moisture coming from the inside living area than it keeps out moisture coming in from outside?? Have no experience though.
madmax

[ben62670]

I was an electrician for a while, and I would recommend running a 10/3 wire run to the panel. /It is perfectly legal to use 20amp breakers on a 10ga wire. This way you will have 2 circuits sharing the same ground, and neutral to help isolate any noise/hum.
Your project is looking good. Someday I hope to have a dedicated theater room too.:)

[reeltrouble1]

So lets talk in-wall speakers for a bit, given a room 18x16x8, which in wall? It will be 7.1, with the back being in ceiling for sure, open to other ceiling speakers or where to mount the in-walls, remember their will be traditional speakers in the room for the 2-channel.

RT1

[SCompRacer]

My in-wall/ceiling surround sysytem is in a 14' x 22' x 8' room. The fronts/center and rears are in-wall/ceiling facing the shorter distance with two LSi7's as surrounds.

I preferred the LCi series and started out with the LC65'is as R & L front & C with two LC60i's in the ceiling. Something seemed lacking until I upgraded the R & L front to LC265i 3 ways. Maybe it was the don't put too small of a speaker in a big room thing. So maybe consider 6" driver three ways or 8" driver two ways for your room.

I built enclosures for them using fire breaks between the wall studs, and doubled up MDF between the ceiling joists to make ceiling enclosures. A couple of handfuls of insulation were tossed in before mounting the speakers. You could use MDF between the studs for the rear of your wall enclosures.

[reeltrouble1]

OK need some help, I have all the wall studs up, will be building sofets around the perimter, the ceiling is now exposed.

Electrical question??? Given one 20 amp line for lighting, how many recessed cans can I run? The room will measure 15' wide by 16' long. It is all new construction as far as the walls, the ceiling/floor joists are typical 2x12 with standard insulation looks like 8" fiberglass. What is the recommended way to wire the cans?? I also want one ceiling fan and two sconces, on this line for air movement. I want to be able to dim the lights. I would like to be able to have four different zones for the lights.

1. around entire perimeter front, back and side walls, hung in perimeter sofet.
2. sconces and ceiling fan
3. cans in second stepped sofet
4. cans in flat existing ceiling

stereo luver, I am not following your suggestion for the floating drywall??? can you explain it is simpler terms????

RT1

[SCompRacer]

The basic loading rule is 80% of circuit capacity. 20 amps x 120 volts is 2400 watts. 80% gives you 1920 watts to work with. If you use 75 watt bulbs, that would equal 25.6 fixtures with 75 watt light bulbs. However, local code may only allow x number of fixtures or outlets per circuit regardless of capacity.

IIRC, you were going to insulate the ceiling so you will need IC rated housings. I'll try and find the link to the web site where I figured my can light placement in the lower level. Our family room is 22' x 14' and I used 8 IC rated can lights. They are wired in two seperate banks of 4 with dimmers. The can lights have boxes so you daisy chain them with a parallel circuit.

EDIT: pdf doc residential recessed lighting. (http://www.lithonia.com/ResidentialLighting/OnlineCatalog/LayoutGuide.pdf) This covers placement and spacing based on bulb wattage and ceiling height.

[schwarcw]

Rich,

Do you still want to keep the insulation away from those light cans!

I have left about six inches of empy space around the cans in my ceiling.

RT, Check the wattage limits on those cans, some of them only like 60 watts max. Others can tolerate higher wattages.

By all means Rich knows far more about this stuff than I do. If you take my advice your woodshed will be wood ashes :( :eek:

Carl

[SCompRacer]

Rich doesn’t know that much, but he had some good electrician friends that knew local code to keep him out of trouble. IIRC, we can only have a maximum of 10 light fixtures on a 15 amp circuit here. Some communities’ local code only allows four outlets on a 20 amp circuit.

Ted, if you were not aware of it, pay attention to box fill ratings too. Like conduit, you just can't stuff them full of wire just cause it will fit. An explanation. (http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewiringusa/2002/definitions/boxfill/index.htm) The raised electrical box covers that your devices (switches/outlet) will attach to will add cubic inches to the box.

Carl, my IC rated can lights are rated for a 75 watt bulb. IC rated means you can cover them with insulation. Non IC requires insulation be at least 3” away from the can. Can lights made after '82 have a thermal switch that trips around 190 degrees F and resets at around 180. Law requires non-IC cans to have a warning label.

When my BIL built his house, he had can lights installed over the kitchen counters. They were supposed to be IC rated, but the thermal protection would pop if they were on for a few hours. He ended up going into the attic and clearing some insulation away. I never went up there to see if they were IC rated. It should say on the can.

[schwarcw]

Damn! That article you attached makes my head hurt. I'm way too tired to try and ingest that. Besides, I'm chilling to Diana Krall's "Love Scenes". She trying to serenade me into a lover's bliss:D

Carl

[SCompRacer]

Damn! That article you attached makes my head hurt.

Try this one (http://www.hubbellcatalog.com/raco/RACO_boxes.asp?FAM=RacoBoxes). I loaned my electrical folder out and the RACO name finally came back to me.

Once you decide how far away from the walls you will mount your fixtures, stretch a chalk line around screws in the ceiling joists at each end of the room and use it as a guide to keep your light bank straight. One other thing I did on my can lights was use construction adhesive to prevent the mounting hardware from vibrating. The typical can light for between joist mounting has a pair of sliding mounting rails on each side of the can frame. After you attach the rails to the studs, and they are positioned properly, use construction adhesive to glue the rails together and to the box. The trim rings are held in place with springs and you'd be surprised how they vibrate with different frequencies at high SPL's.

[schwarcw]

Much better! I can better understand this! Thanks Rich!

Carl

[hearingimpared]

Much better! I can better understand this! Thanks Rich!

Carl

I'm glad you do cause when I read this thread I feel like I am in an Abbott & Costello or Marx Brother routine! LOL:confused: :p

[reeltrouble1]

I need alot of cans..........this is really going to be something. I think I will jump the ceiling fan off of a different line and just put the cans and sconces on the 20 amp line. I found the articles some nice light reading.......then I was a budding EE once......in a land far away a very long time ago.

RT1

[reeltrouble1]

I decided against using too many cans recessed into the ceiling and sofets, counterproductive, putting holes in something you are trying to seal and pressurize.

Speaking of sofets........I have built two of them to use as wire chases, break up standing waves and for aesthetic appeal. I will be double dry-walling the entire room. I am planning on using finished plywood, stained with crown to encase the sofets, which are 15 and 12 inches wide respectively, each has a 7 inch reveal.

So the question is should I:

Nail the ply directly to the sofet's frame..............not loving this thought.

Nail drywall first then encase the sofet's in ply........ seems better

Nail one drywall layer then glue another drywall layer, (like the walls and ceiling) then encase in the wood.

FYI---sound batting will be inside each sofet and in the ceiling above each sofet.

RT1

[SCompRacer]

Nail one drywall layer then glue another drywall layer, (like the walls and ceiling) then encase in the wood.

Why not just use drywall? Use the rounded Bullnose Corner Bead like I did on my soffit in the lighted lower level.

[reeltrouble1]

because........................ITS A WOODSHED...so its gotta have some wood, no not that kind of wood, tree wood...... actually, I saw a pic of one done this way and thought it looked very nice, a manley sort of thing, so a Manley would feel at home in such a room. Get it, a Manely with Wood and tubes of course...............a Freudian Paradise

I will be using the bull nose throughout the outer edges of the room though, it is very nice stuff.

RT1

[SCompRacer]

Sorry...I was just thinking of all that extra work you, I mean your sons, would be doing ...:p :D Nicely finished wood would be a great addition.


EDIT:

Ted, per our land line, pics of the room/can lights to give you an idea what they look like. Sorry it took so long.

The hallway is a 2.5 inch recessed can with a 30 watt bulb.

The 14' x 22' family room has eight cans, 4" 75 watt flood bulbs. Two banks of four on seperate dimmer switch. It is not task lighting, and wasn't spec'd that way.

The fireplace has two small eyeball spots. 50 watt halogen, on dimmers.

The other shot is one I found somewhere that shows small eyeballs mounted in a soffit.

[reeltrouble1]

they owe me big:;) cool: ...............waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa:D , well my super duper expert building supply dude just came up with a wall system that is going to save some dough yet still to the trick for soundproofing,

sound bat
sound wooly wood board
green glue
drywall

sans the resilent channel or padded lead tape

of course some wood for the WoodShed

allright all the framing is finally done, so next is???????

wire electrical and speaker???
can and fixtures placement rough in?????
speaker install
wall system

hell I dunno anymore........................confused:confused:


RT1

[disneyjoe7]

We want progress pictures damn it.

[steveinaz]

HT/Surround sound encompasses all that which is evil and wrong.

....carry on....

[reeltrouble1]

Dont worry Steve,not jumping ship I am two channel to the core, HT is a family thing, watching movies together, laughing it up, holding my grandbabes on my lap and all that.

This is not going to be an "ordinary" thing, Polk has hit a real home run with somethings I am doing and guiding me along this path, I just don't want to spill all the beans just yet.

My long term plan includes two exclusive listening rooms.

Disney, I give you the promise first, the pledge and then..........see you soon bud.

[disneyjoe7]

Ok Ted understand your surprise factor so NO PIX's...

See ya soon Disney out.

[reeltrouble1]

what all there is now is 2X4's, the bones are done, slow and steady Teddy..........if only I could quit procrastinating over every little detail.......I spent all day looking at light fixtures, you know how many damm kind of effin light fixtures they have now....sure keep it simple I say.........then WOW look at some this shite they make.......tons of it to sift through.

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[hearingimpared]

what all there is now is 2X4's, the bones are done, slow and steady Teddy..........if only I could quit procrastinating over every little detail.......I spent all day looking at light fixtures, you know how many damm kind of effin light fixtures they have now....sure keep it simple I say.........then WOW look at some this shite they make.......tons of it to sift through.

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Not true. . .look at the price tags. . .that narrows the field quickly.

[engtaz]

We want progress pictures damn it.

Please pretty please with sugar on top and a Cherry LOL

[reeltrouble1]

So this project continues....................... some shots of the low voltage transformers, isolated circuit, leutron dimmer boxes, and one of the Polk Performance enclosures................

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[reeltrouble1]

and moving along............low voltage wire drops, low voltage/line voltage interface box, wire wire everywhere, I have pulled over 300 ft of just speaker cable, plus 100 ft of low voltage and I cannot say even say how much line voltage from the new sub-panel.

The Celotex sound board will be covered with extra long wallboard to minimize seams all of which are staggered each seam still gets filled with acoustical sealent, I used a two layers of sound board on the ceiling, there is two layers of sound bat insulation in the ceiling and walls which the sound board covers.

I keep telling myself this will get done, we hope to complete the wallboard this weekend.

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[Ricardo]

Looking good....better have your slaves hurry up or it won't be ready for the fest ;)

[disneyjoe7]

Looking good :)

BTW with all that wiring looks like you have gone mad :eek:

[Fireman32]

Looking good Ted. looking foward to seeing it and hearing it at the fest.

[reeltrouble1]

yea, we need to shake a leg, otherswise, you may hear it while you are painting it at the Fest!!!!!!! I am still waiting on two speakers, the RTS surrounds got delayed and are supposed to be on the boat from China, a slow boat no doubt. You will get to hear Polk Audio's absolute best in-wall system, a no holds barred assault on in-wall/in ceiling speaking technology, easily on par with the LSI line, those who heard the ones at the Maryland Fest, well the RTS line-up was made with Matt's vision to blow the old line away. For you svs sub hounds, you will hear twin Polk SWA 200's with the SWA 500 amplifier, 1000 watts of growl and boom easily eq'd for 2-channel as well. Once the drywall is up and taped I will feel much better as we can finish with painting and the low voltage track. I decided on track to keep the holes in the ceiling to well, zero, there are not any, this room will pressurize with, yep just for Cat------a 200 wpc channel B&K to drive everything a very nice amp which sounds great, not 199 watts, 200, yea baby, of course I have slipped in a few extra special things to make the 2-channel part of this the best it can be. Also, I can now run as many as four subs with easy expansion to eight (in ceiling soffets) should I ever want it.

However, it has become apparent my best personal audio solution is a long range plan to completely redo the existing Woodshed room keeping it 2-channel only, I learned alot building this new room and will apply it once I get started on the next one.

I really (reel-ly) enjoy all the audio paths and will always have a two channel rig, there are though great advances being made in audio surround as engineers are beginning to master the process giving hope to mulit-channel fans and interest to stubborn 2-channel die hards like myself.

Dave--I decided to put the same Mit you have in for the time being as the Monitor.

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

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[cfrizz]

Sounds like it's going to be incredible Ted! Congrats.

[engtaz]

Sound great. Congrats

[reeltrouble1]

Well the work has continued and we are seeing the home stretch.......looking forward to enjoying this room.

Here are some shots of the front stage install with the custom in-floor woofs being used in-wall, Polk Paul helped along the way, with speaker placement and especially with the refraction/diffraction points and tricks to eliminate problems on the corners.

I will be adding a rug to cover most of the tile floor in case your wondering.......

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[reeltrouble1]

Oh, and here is a shot of the electrical gear closet. wire wire everywhere.....

Things will get tidied up in the next day or two..


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[madmax]

If you really want to make the room useful make a small slot in the wall to hold your mp3 player. :D
madmax

[reeltrouble1]

Funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:p ;)

That is what the room's equipment closet is for, hidden behind the wall in the darkest recesses; unbeknowst I will creep down the stairs to slip some cans on, fire the dogged Mp3 on and let the ear bleeding begin.

Yes, the paradigm has already shifted as far as music formats, to not recognize this is simply head in the sand stuff...........I can only trust in the addage that the mass market appeal mothers the invention and the hobbyist/enthusiast companies refine it, as it is and always has been in audio. The one bright lite is vinyl and its resurgence although right now the cost is prohibitive for the young people, the same people who like the downloading aspects of just doing it and most of all having fun with it while they are doing it. I think that is what drives mp3, its not only cheap, the folks who like it are having fun with it??? No????

Sorry though, no MP3 Ipod thingies for now, not for me. Someday, yes you will access your music in ways not dreamed possible, actually, I cannot wait and look forward to what the science of sound has in store for all of us.

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[treitz3]

Krieky! Are you gonna have it done in time for PF?

[reeltrouble1]

That is the plan...................The doors went up yesterday. Still things to do, but yea, the whole idea is to give the membership the opportunity to hear Polk's full on assault of in-wall technology!!!!!!!!!! Its going to be a great place, maybe dubbed the Reel Time Theater........

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