vintage amp for 2 chan system......

[JimBRICK]

I'm looking at a few old integrated amps on ebay for my budget 2 channel rig.

what are your opinions on the 70s- early 80's big boys


here are some examples (ebay item numbers)

270120617773
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270120617773&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.ca%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsea rch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D270120617773%26fv i%3D1
290114976376
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290114976376&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.ca%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsea rch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D290114976376%26fv i%3D1

120119700446
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120119700446&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.ca%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsea rch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D120119700446%26fv i%3D1
330119767279
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330119767279&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.ca%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsea rch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D330119767279%26fv i%3D1
260117315761
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260117315761&rd=1&rd=1
260117549541
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=016&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=260117549541&rd=1&rd=1

which of these would you buy?

[F1nut]

Jim, it's alot easier for us if you post direct links.

[F1nut]

I thought you were sold on the Jolida, eh?

Here's one that's a no brainer, http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?intatube&1184508374

[JimBRICK]

I was but wifey says CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP

[apc]

Have you browsed the Canuck Audio Mart? I found a fine vintage receiver there not too long ago.

[billbillw]

Jim,
This kind of talk is what they thrive on over at Audiokarma.org. They love their vintage Japanese solid state and you will probably find discussion on each and every one of those amps.

In general, most everything from the late 70s will be better than most of the stuff from the 80s, with a few exceptions (Sony ES, Kenwood LO series, Pioneer SPEC).

You can also expect that most vintage pieces will need a little work to get them up to full potential. Unless its already been done, they usually need pots and switches cleaned with deoxit. DC Offset and bias should be checked before first use. Tuners almost always need to be cleaned and realigned. In addition, any electrolytic capacitors are probably going to need replacement in a fairly short time. Vintage gear can be lots of fun, but at the same time, its a risk because service manuals can be difficult or impossible to find, and parts availability can often be very limited if there is a problem. Good luck if you go that route.

[AsSiMiLaTeD]

I thought you were sold on the Jolida, eh?

Here's one that's a no brainer, http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?intatube&1184508374hmmm....


hmmmmmm......

[JimBRICK]

I'm talking to a guy about a technics su-v6
the net says this is a class A what does that mean exactely. he's really proud its a class A


150 TRUE WATTS RMS TOTAL OUTPUT (75+75); SOUNDS MUCH LOUDER THAN MODERN AMPS WITH THE SAME RATINGS
- DISTORTION ALWAYS BELOW 0.005 !
- PURE DC CLASS AA NON-SWITCHING AMPIFIER DESIGN - CLEAN SOUND EVEN AT FULL OUTPUT!
- QUALITY PARTS THROUGHOUT
- 2 PAIRS OF SPEAKERS OUT
- HANDLES ANY LOAD 4-16 OHMS
- AUX, PHONO, TUNER, TAPE1, TAPE2
- MM/MC PHONO SELECTOR
- CAN BE USED WITH CD/DVD PLAYER OR COMPUTER
- TONE DEFEAT FOR STRAIGHT DC OPERATION!
- SUBSONIC & HIGH FILTERS
- STEREO/MONO & LOUDNESS CONTROLS
- SOFT RELAY-BASED START
- MULTI-PROTECTION LEVELS

[NeilGabriel]

I just gave my son my 1983 Yamaha A-700. It worked great for years and still does (though it could use some deoxit) and I put 100s of hours on it. I think it was 100 watts a channel at 8 ohms. Here is an online eval of the int. amp: "I have and am using an A-700. You have probably 'analyzed' the sound for yourself by now. I classify it as neutral - not warm like a Sansui AU-717, not dry/bright like, for instance, an Audiosource amp.

The A-700's Auto-Class A button lets the amp run in pure class A up to 5 watts/ch RMS, above which the amp goes to class AB operation. The unit can get very hot in class A, and I haven't run it that way since the first day I owned it. If you haven't had the cover off yet, you will be impressed with the organization and neatness of the component layout."

Class A supposedly runs much "cleaner" than other classes but gets very hot if run at higher volumes. You will get much better response from others. There also was an A-1000.

There was one on ebay not long
Here's link to discussion.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/1/42511.html

[F1nut]

It has the new class A synchro-bias.

Hmm.....I wasn't aware that there was a "new class A." Class A has always been Class A and they run hot even at idle.

Out of your choices, (personally, I'd tell the wifey to get her bitch ass in the kitchen and bake me some pie while I buy the Jolida) I like the Pioneer SA-7700. Nothing says vintage like a faux wood chassis and VU meters.

[JimBRICK]

I also found this

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=320114442822&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=011

this looks awesome

[dorokusai]

I have a minty fresh, vintage Sony receiver if that tickles your fancy. I'll get it out, take a couple pics and find the model number.

Jesse - It's just a marketing blurb from Technics.

[JimBRICK]

uh oh Crazy Doro is back

if Doro's selling something its always worth a look

[tom t]

out of the six you have there, i would go with the jvc or technics. i myself if looking for a intergrated amp would go with a sansui 717,719,or 919. the best out there for 1977-1981

[heiney9]

I'm talking to a guy about a technics su-v6
the net says this is a class A what does that mean exactely. he's really proud its a class A


150 TRUE WATTS RMS TOTAL OUTPUT (75+75); SOUNDS MUCH LOUDER THAN MODERN AMPS WITH THE SAME RATINGS
- DISTORTION ALWAYS BELOW 0.005 !
- PURE DC CLASS AA NON-SWITCHING AMPIFIER DESIGN - CLEAN SOUND EVEN AT FULL OUTPUT!
- QUALITY PARTS THROUGHOUT
- 2 PAIRS OF SPEAKERS OUT
- HANDLES ANY LOAD 4-16 OHMS
- AUX, PHONO, TUNER, TAPE1, TAPE2
- MM/MC PHONO SELECTOR
- CAN BE USED WITH CD/DVD PLAYER OR COMPUTER
- TONE DEFEAT FOR STRAIGHT DC OPERATION!
- SUBSONIC & HIGH FILTERS
- STEREO/MONO & LOUDNESS CONTROLS
- SOFT RELAY-BASED START
- MULTI-PROTECTION LEVELS

I used sell this line back in the late 80's. Not much to say other than very very average. "New Class A" is strictly a marketing term meaning it might have been biased to run slighlty longer in psuedo-class A (I somehow doubt it) They run very hot mostly because of lack of proper heat sinking (usually where the bean counters cut corners) Soft relay and Multi protection are just other words for current limiting because there are few output tranny's, not enough heat sinking and regular output runs the tranny close to max.

Certainly not a dog perhaps worth $60-80 for a 2ndary system. Get an Adcom GFA 535 and equivalent pre and keep the Technics as a paper weight.

JMHO

H9

[JimBRICK]

see thats why I like this forum, people who know their shit are here.
thanks guys

I'm waiting to see what doro has first.

[JimBRICK]

thought these were cool
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Sansui-NEW-IN-BOX-Stereo-System-With-Speakers_W0QQitemZ190112525272QQihZ009QQcategoryZ1 4980QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.ca/SANSUI-G-8000-AM-FM-STEREO-RECEIVER-EXCELLENT_W0QQitemZ130114277885QQihZ003QQcategoryZ 3279QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[F1nut]

Jesse - It's just a marketing blurb from Technics.

Thanks Mark, I was just being polite. ;)

[danger boy]

i like the Pioneer amp too.. are you looking for a power amp or an integrated amp?

[JimBRICK]

integrated to run my phono and cd player

I want all old stuff in it.

[dorokusai]

Thanks Mark, I was just being polite. ;)

Amen :D

[F1nut]

Seeing as the CD player was introduced in 1983 to the US market and by todays standards, really suck, you may want to rethink, "I want all old stuff in it."

[heiney9]

Seeing as the CD player was introduced in 1983 to the US market and by todays standards, really suck, you may want to rethink, "I want all old stuff in it."

Not only that but most, because of their age, will most certainly have mechanical issues. If not now, shortly, and parts are either non-existent or very expensive because of very short supply. It's a big gamble. Plus there are so few from 80's that sound good.

[JimBRICK]

nah I got my old Nakamichi cd player

[steveinaz]

I'd go w/ the Pioneers first, Technics second. I wouldn't touch JVC if it were free. I had a customer service issue with JVC over 20 years ago that left such a bad taste in my mouth, I haven't, and will not own anything JVC.

[NeilGabriel]

No affilliation. I bought something from them a few years ago...speakers I think.

http://www.oaktreevintage.com/Stereo_Receivers.htm

[JimBRICK]

Neil I'll check that out when I get home. I'm at work right now and they have a net blocker so I cant surf. Thank god were a polk dealer so the website stays open

[dorokusai]

Jim - Hey Canuck, shoot me an email. Unrelated, but I have something tube based that you will love :D

[JimBRICK]

cant email I'm at work til 8. I'll use the form from here :)

[JimBRICK]

talk about a budget 2 channel rig
mirage speakers 30 bucks
nackamichi cdp 17 bucks
yamaha turntable 25 bucks

now just need my power and I'm done

[heiney9]

nah I got my old Nakamichi cd player

I was going to suggest an older Nak because they were built like tanks and sounded very good for the day, but parts are impossible to get so when it dies give it a nice burial. I have a Nak MB2 from 1990 that for all intents and purposes shouldn't still work, but it does quite nicely for a transport. I expect it to die one of these days but it keeps chuggin along.

I also have an older OMS 5 in the closet with issues which are too expensive to fix let alone sourcing parts.

[JimBRICK]

CDP-2A is the model number of my NAK its a single disk and works great. the person I bought it from didnt have the remote but I got the manual

[dorokusai]

I think all the vintage gear you found is cool and if its local, jump on it. It's great to check out old school gear, have fun.

Here's a couple pics of a factory fresh Sony:

[izafar]

That Sony is looking so yummy...

[JimBRICK]

I have a couple I'mlooking at right now with Doro's being my backup. When I have one in place I'll post the pics here of the ultimate cheap ass 2 channel rig :)

[dorokusai]

Go local if you have a chance.

[RuSsMaN]

Throw a dog a bone, and it becomes a 'backup'?

Ouch.

I just threw that same Sony receiver in the landfill last week, had a wood case and everything. Worked fine, but the tuna string broke, and I didn't feel like restringing it. I did pull the knobs, but that was it.

Cheers,
Russ

[heiney9]

Throw a dog a bone, and it becomes a 'backup'?

Ouch.

I just threw that same Sony receiver in the landfill last week, had a wood case and everything. Worked fine, but the tuna string broke, and I didn't feel like restringing it. I did pull the knobs, but that was it.

Cheers,
Russ

Doesn't anyone burn useless things anymore :confused: :D .

H9

[JimBRICK]

backup cause we both agreed that finding local would be smarter. I love sony though, I know alot of people here hate sony but everything I've ever bought from sony I still have and it still works perfectely. even mybig ass walkman from1982

[RuSsMaN]

All well and good, the little lady still has her original easy bake oven, perfect working order - but I don't have any light-driven cake mix. Guess who is sans cupcakes tonight? Think I give a shit about that easy bake?

Cheers,
Russ

[JimBRICK]

All well and good, the little lady still has her original easy bake oven, perfect working order - but I don't have any light-driven cake mix. Guess who is sans cupcakes tonight? Think I give a shit about that easy bake?

Cheers,
Russ

reason number 4 why not to post after ingesting moonshine

[moo]

Jim,
You can also expect that most vintage pieces will need a little work to get them up to full potential. Unless its already been done, they usually need pots and switches cleaned with deoxit. DC Offset and bias should be checked before first use. Tuners almost always need to be cleaned and realigned. In addition, any electrolytic capacitors are probably going to need replacement in a fairly short time. Vintage gear can be lots of fun, but at the same time, its a risk because service manuals can be difficult or impossible to find, and parts availability can often be very limited if there is a problem. Good luck if you go that route.

Is there any guides available on how to check the DC offset and bias as you have mentioned? Is it just using a multimeter set to DC to measure the output on the speaker terminals?

Thanks.