Alright seriousness here...

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

I want to get a small setup for my truck - I've finally admitted to myself that this is my ride for the next few years... soo...

Ok..

I want to spend about $150 on the speakers (one pair)
I have an ID8 or w/e subwoofer which I will utilize....
A 4 channel amp that can perhaps have two of its channels bridged to run the sub... the other 2 for the fronts...

And a aftermarket HU - I picked out a Kenwood Excelon because it is black. You know why this important? Because the place it will be mounted...is.. you guessed it... black.

HAHAHHAHA

Heres the HU I picked out -

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JT6heCa4gbL/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=300&tab=morephotos&pi=1&i=113KDCX491&display=L#Tab

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pX3as0QYqZQ/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=400&I=107DB651S

Speakers ^^

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pX3as0QYqZQ/cgi-bin/Prodview.asp?readmore=true&g=120&I=500MRPF250#Tab

Amp ^^

And I have the Image Dynamics ID8

Any thoughts? Thanks

Wanted to keep it around 600ish smackers + installation. Most likely will go through Crutchfield.

[danger boy]

Trey,
I have that Alpine amp in my car.. nice looking amp. but it lacks a bit of power.. get the next level up Alpine amp instead.. I think it's like 75x4 for only like $100 more. :)

[exalted512]

Check out www.cardomain.com/shop as well, they usually have better prices than crutchfield. Are you planning on installing it yourself?
-Cody

[appadv]

Trey,

Why don't you go with the Polk MMC650 speakers? I heard they sound much better than the db series... much more bang for the buck.

Anyways, what happened to the Toyota Yaris plans?

[Jstas]

I think that's a decent setup you got for yourself there. I think I would go with a more powerful amp like dangerboy already said. It'll give you moore oomph from the sub and the extra power you would need to overcome road noise. Pickups are noisy. Otherwise, that ID8 sub will match up to those DB651's well.

Look at Sounddomain too. They have better prices than Crutchfield and more variety. I don't think they carry Alpine anymore though. They have Kenwood eXcelon amps though.

[Jstas]

Hey, here you go! This one is a nice amp!

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13124

Hifonics Nemesis! It's an old one but probably New/Old Stock. Those nemesis amps though, they have the Zeus series guts but none of the bells and whistles. They tend to be a tad underrated but have plenty of amperage to give you tons of head room. I have a friend with a Nemesis NX750D running full tilt at a 2-ohm load for 3-4 years now without a single problem. Very nice amps at very nice prices!

Also, if you are on a budget, I love these Profiles! Solid, reliable power for peanuts. Very nice specs too. Solid performers! I have 3 Profile California series amps still running and they are at least 10 years old.

60W x 4
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqvYvR3Afdn/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP740

80W x 4
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqvYvR3Afdn/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP1040

and a Baja series which is a California amp without all the flash:

80W x 4
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IqvYvR3Afdn/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489HA1040

All Profile amps are 2 ohm stable and capable of 3-way operation, event the stereo amps. however, you need a special crossover network for a stereo amp. Those are all 4-channel amps.

[audiobliss]

Mostly good choices there, for sure.

I can go with that HU. Good solid brand, solid performance; nothing fancy and nothing astonishing, but it looks nice and has everything you need.

I can't complain about the speakers, either. If you're against components and don't want to spend a little more for the MOMO series, you've picked out a good pair.

Argh. How could you do so good on the first two choices (and sub, too), and then do that with the amp? Like everyone else has said, you'll need more power. 50x4 - 75x4 would be nice.

I'm sure jstas picked out some nice amps, so I'll refrain from offering any suggestions. However, I'm assuming you'll need an amp that can be bridged at 2ohms for your sub, and that should severely limit your possibilities (as far as I can tell, none of the amps jstas linked can be bridged at 2ohms).

Anyhoo, good luck with the system, and I'm glad you've finally seen the light and decided to hold on to the truck for a little while longer.

[appadv]

I agree. You might need more power for the amp, depends on your listening levels though.

Also is there any reason you can't go with the MOMO series? Heard them at CES, and I noted a big jump in performance for not much $$ over the db series.

So - you're holding on to the truck for 3 years or so? When you do decide to sell the truck, can you contact me?

[MacLeod]

Check out Cardomain.com (http://www.cardomain.com/shop/list.pl?brand=Polk+Audio&type_plural=2-Way+Speakers&filter=no). Theyre having a huge sale on Polk speakers. I dont know if theyll fit your ride but the MMC650's can be had for $145!! Thats a great deal and will sound much better than the DB's.

[appadv]

Trey, are you also looking for a mostly "stock-fit" installation? Because of the black on black thing...

If so I would recommend using your factory speaker grilles (to prevent theft) and also hide the amp in a location that is not easily seen.

Good luck and enjoy!

[Jstas]

I'm sure jstas picked out some nice amps, so I'll refrain from offering any suggestions. However, I'm assuming you'll need an amp that can be bridged at 2ohms for your sub, and that should severely limit your possibilities (as far as I can tell, none of the amps jstas linked can be bridged at 2ohms).


If that is the case, forget the 4 channel and go with a 2 channel amp and a D-class amp.

Here are 4 solid performers that won't break your budget.

2 channel amps

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VJXYq2twGZa/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP600

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VJXYq2twGZa/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP400

Mono Sub Amps

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VJXYq2twGZa/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP1000M

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-VJXYq2twGZa/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=489AP700M


Grab one of the two channels and one of the monos and you won't need more than 8 guage amp wire. It's not going to draw a crazy amount, it'll drive the speakers you have and what you are looking without an issue and those amps aren't physically gigantic either so you hide them anywhere.

They will handle the MOMO Carbon series speakers well enough too so no worries there either.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Ill add the 75 watt amp to the list.

600 includes the installation cost - I figure around 200.

Keeping stock speaker grills, the works. I dont want anything except the Headunit visible - which I will put in the dash when I am gone...

Thanks so far :)

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

FWIW - I wired my ID8 to an 8 ohm load.

[audiobliss]

Well, that's not good, either. Now you're going to need a MONSTER of a mono amp so it can put out enough power into 8ohms.

[exalted512]

Is the ID8 a dual 4 ohm speaker or? This isnt home audio, 8 ohm is not where you want to be.
-Cody

[appadv]

FWIW - I wired my ID8 to an 8 ohm load.

Can you make that a 4 ohm instead? Would work better for this application.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Can I just use 1 4 ohm coil?

[Jstas]

Can I just use 1 4 ohm coil?

Your performance would fall through the floor because you'd have one coil hauling around the weight of two.

Dude, just rewire the sub for a 2-ohm load, get the mono D-class amp for the sub and call it a day. If you go with the Profile amps I listed, you will have plenty of performance for not alot of dough.

We all started small. My first system was a Kenwood KRC-202 tape deck with CD changer controls (no CD changer though), a pair of 4 inch Polk EX402's running off the deck, a pair of Kicker Impulse 460i 4x6's in the doors and two Kwneood W3000 8 inch subs being pushed by a Profile California Series AP600. Be glad that the market is much more user friendly now. Nothing wrong with getting a budget system the first time around. Go with what you can afford. You already have a good eye for matching components. You don't need high dollar stuff to sound good.

[exalted512]

If its a dual 4 ohm coil, just hook up each coil to its own channel...you dont have to buy another amp.
-Cody

[Jstas]

He'd have to wire in another set of terminals on the sub box.

[exalted512]

Hes fairly good at making boxes, I think he can handle it;)
-Cody

[appadv]

Hes fairly good at making boxes, I think he can handle it;)
-Cody

Seen some of his speaker boxes before. I'd say they were some of the best boxes I've seen using leftover parts...

[audiobliss]

Just wire it for a 2ohm load, buy two amps, and call it a day...

trust me...you'll thank us later...

[appadv]

Just wire it for a 2ohm load, buy two amps, and call it a day...

trust me...you'll thank us later...

Good advice. I would do that too if I had a truck like Sid's.

[exalted512]

Just wire it for a 2ohm load, buy two amps, and call it a day...

trust me...you'll thank us later...

Remind me, how many amps do you have powering your subs and speakers?
-Cody

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

I may sell the sub to a guy and get something different. Will keep ya posted.

[audiobliss]

Remind me, how many amps do you have powering your subs and speakers?
-Cody
I'm not running any subs. Just a 75x4 on my components.

[engtaz]

Like the headunit but why not the 791,or 891 series Kenwood Excelon? I also agree with more amp power.

[appadv]

Trey,

I think you may get away with not having any subs. Depends on the kind of music you listen to though. And your personal preferences...

[audiobliss]

His personal preference?

He's gotta have a sub.

[appadv]

His personal preference?

He's gotta have a sub.

Right. I forgot the time when I heard his SVS sub cranked up +20db hot.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

+20?

Yeah ok.

Might 5.

Anyways - I am thinking about a powered sub - just for convenience - my Dad had one. I liked it.

[appadv]

+20?

Yeah ok.

Might 5.

It felt like +5 at some frequencies and +20 at others.

"Appadv, on the bass note, you also have to note in my room I have alot of peaks and dips.

For instance, I might have 85db at 100hz, but may be hitting 105db at 50-60hz - seriously. My room is just like a gigantic bass horn... my room really does suck... lol

When I was showing you what the BP10B can do, I was telling you how I had a dip around 90-80hz - which is where the bass drum is centered. So when that really big peak at 50-60hz kicks in, it really seems amplified due to that peak. I also have a drop off after 50-45hz... a slow one, but it eventually drops off though. If I could calm down that big jump between 70-50hz, I would have an incredibly flat response from 100-13hz..." (AmpraSid)

So, yeah, +20 :)

[audiobliss]

Anyways - I am thinking about a powered sub - just for convenience - my Dad had one. I liked it.
If you end up going with a powered sub, Mac, Cody, and I are going to come over there and beat the snot out of you.

[Jack from Indo]

If you end up going with a powered sub, Mac, Cody, and I are going to come over there and beat the snot out of you.

I don't even know the guy, and will help out just on general principle!

[audiobliss]

Hahahahahaha! Thanks! We'll slap him silly!

Wait, he obviously already silly. Maybe we'll slap some sense into him!

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Powered subs it is! :)

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Got a head unit installed today

Love the Kenwood, its black and very discrete!

[audiobliss]

Sweet!

Wait, got it installed? Oh well. I'd be kind of worried about the wiring. The rest of the installation I think is fine, but I don't like splicing into the wiring harness.

[audiobliss]

Oh, and we need pictures!!!!

[exalted512]

If you can pass 1st grade you can handle the wiring on a head unit. All it is is matching colors.
-Cody

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

I was more concerned about getting into the dash than the actual wiring...

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

But its very discrete --- draws pretty much NO attention to itself..

Only person that has really realized I got a CD player was the dude that drove me there to get it installed and took me back to get my truck.

[appadv]

Nice...congrats!

It's a good thing that it draws no attention to itself...

[dohcmark8]

Hmmm.... I have a '90 F-150... and so far I'm keeping it stock because I managed to install XM with a cass adapter and hide ALL the wiring... even ran the cass adapter wire from inside the radio. I left enough slack so that I could still eject the adapter to listen to FM... but nonetheless its working out great for me so far.

This is just a work truck... stop giving me ideas ya'all. :)

I dont need a good system in it right? (Someone agree with me). I knew I shouldn't of come into this thread...

Back on topic though... looks like you got a nice setup going there. :D

[PoweredByDodge]

work truck setup (in my world)
----------------------------------------------

1- am/fm/cd with mp3 capability (mp3's on 700 mb cd's) headunit --- about 150 bucks

2- one pair of 6x9's in the corners behind the seat (in those little truck boxes) -- about 130 for the speakers and boxes bought retail

3- 2 channel amp, 80 x 2 at 4 ohms or greater -- about 125 bucks retail
------------------------------------------------------------------
$405 and u get to still throw shit around... cut the price by 30% to 50% if you buy online or used. so 200 - 250.... and 'u be pimpin it work style'

[appadv]

Hmmm.... I have a '90 F-150... and so far I'm keeping it stock because I managed to install XM with a cass adapter and hide ALL the wiring... even ran the cass adapter wire from inside the radio. I left enough slack so that I could still eject the adapter to listen to FM... but nonetheless its working out great for me so far.

This is just a work truck... stop giving me ideas ya'all. :)

I dont need a good system in it right? (Someone agree with me). I knew I shouldn't of come into this thread...

Back on topic though... looks like you got a nice setup going there. :D

I agree.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Ah I've gotten bittin by the bug now that I got that headunit...

I'm thinking a sub for the back - 10 or 8" - single...

seperate mid tweet for the front -- seperate amp for speakers and sub and dynamating the inside to get rid of vibrations.. i hate vibrations...

Dangit you guys.

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Guys make me a system for 1500 installed -

Single 8" sub that can fit behind the seat of a reg cab truck...

Components to fit my doors - looks like they take 5.25"

This includes Dynamating the doors, floor, and back wall of the truck

Need 2 amps...

Let me know if I need to extend my budget - 1.5 to 2k

[appadv]

Trey,

For the door speakers - How about the Polk MOMO component series over the db components? That's a significant sound quality upgrade.

Sub - Polk MOMO 8"
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products/mm2084/

[appadv]

Amp - http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pX3as0Q...500MRPF250#Tab

[exalted512]

Can you do the deadening yourself?

Check out www.secondskinaudio.com

Its better than dynamat, and cheaper to boot. They also have liquid stuff which is better bang for your buck, actually works better than mat, you just have to wait for it to dry which, depending on your situation, might be a major drawback.
-Cody

[PoweredByDodge]

you can build a lot for 1,500 bucks...

personally, i think this would all do you nicely (everything you need):

1- headunit = the one you have
2 - sub = Audiobahn Alum-10n
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/5502
... $100
... one 10" sub with dual 6 ohm voice coils (yes, a 10 should fit just fine)
3- sub box = RT medium sealed (0.75 cu ft internal volume)
... http://www.cardomain.com/item/RTE31210
... $40
... i think you should build your own for best fit, but if you are hell bent against it, this 'should' but may not, fit.
4- sub amp = Autotek SS1500.1
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/6045
... $225
... should give you around 800 x 1 at 3 ohms mono
5- component speakers (5.25" fronts) = Audiobahn ABC-5002n
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/5792
... $100
... some of the flattest, best sounding, and 'can take a beating' speakers I've ever owned
... 5.25" mid + 1" silk dome tweet @ 160 wrms / channel (4 ohm per component pair) w/ 18 db/octave xovers (not the easiest crossover to open up, the case stinks, but its worth the annoyance).
6- component amplifier (amp for highs) = Autotek SS-125.2
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/6049
... $90
... there's no specs on Ike's page, but they have it in stock, and the specs can be found on Autotek's site
... 125 x 2 rms into 4 ohms (plenty of juice to get you jumping)
... color and style matched to the sub amp mentioned earlier
7- power cable = knockoff no name, but its frickin power wire and a fuse holder, nothin special.
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/1859
... $15
... gives you about 25 feet of 4 gauge, a fuse holder, an 80A fuse, remote turn on wire, some connectors, and then some stuff you won't use.
8- cap = Audiobahn ACA-P4P
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/6520
... $38
... caps serve many purposes, none of which "make yo shit go more boom bro!", it's a power supply stiffener, and a means of fighting off the reverse sawtooth generated by switching power supplies. 1 farad is properly sized for a 1000 - 1200 watt system.
9- couple extra 4 awg ring terminals = 2 pack of these (4 each i think are in 1 pack)
... http://www.cardomain.com/item/STIS410PRG
... $5 x 2 = $10
... you're gonna need one for ground, one for the strap to cap, and 2 more for power off the cap to the amplifiers... so ya, make it 2 packs in case you bust some up.
10- rca's = Esoteric Audio A3 (5 meters)
... http://www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com/products/brand.cfm?detail=ok&brand=8&PN=A3-5M&colorid=0
... $45 per pair x 2 pair = $90
... one set to the amp for highs, other to the sub amp
... don't skimp on RCA's, these are premium cables at a 'not so premium' price. i love them and have had excellent results in a vehicle that normally exhibits a lot of noise with 'regular' rca's.
11- vibration dampening = dynamat extreme bulk pack
... http://ikesound.com/product-product_id/546
... $125
... 36 square feet of blissful silence

TOTAL PRICE = $833 + whatever you spent on your headunit already + shipping

RESULT = killer badass wicked good sound quality at quite a high volume level.

PS ... a lot of those prices aren't retail or 'store' prices. so don't judge the quality of a speaker or amplifier or any other part based on the fact that ikesound has it for 40 bucks or 100 bucks or whatever... it's legit high quality gear at just very very low prices.

[Bill Ayotte]

Can you do the deadening yourself?

Check out www.secondskinaudio.com

Its better than dynamat, and cheaper to boot. They also have liquid stuff which is better bang for your buck, actually works better than mat, you just have to wait for it to dry which, depending on your situation, might be a major drawback.
-Cody

That looks like a pretty nice product, I might just give it a try on my next car....

[exalted512]

That looks like a pretty nice product, I might just give it a try on my next car....

I have about $1200 invested with them in my truck...I like em:D
-Cody

[appadv]

So how's the install going?

[dohcmark8]

Hey let me know how you like the db651s slim speakers. I've had my eye on them for a while...

Ohh can we get some pics of the HU in the dash?

Thanks.

[audiobliss]

Yes indeed, we definitely need pictures. We also need for you to continue building the system!!

[exalted512]

What is the model number of the kenwood you have?
-Cody

[audiobliss]

I believe it'd be this one that he said he picked out in the first post:

Kenwood KDC-X491

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JT6heCa4gbL/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=300&tab=morephotos&pi=1&i=113KDCX491&display=L#Tab

[exalted512]

So why did he get a FM craptransmitter when he has an auxiliary input on the back?
-Cody

[dohcmark8]

So why did he get a FM craptransmitter when he has an auxiliary input on the back?
-Cody

He didnt know how to pull the radio.

I gave him instructions. It's scary how easy it is in that generation F-series.

[exalted512]

You shouldnt have to take the dash apart. The radio he bought comes with keys to slide between the radio and the cage and the radio pulls right out. Even if he cant figure it out, if the stereo shop he went to wont pull it for free, I'd take my business elsewhere. Hell, when someone stops by my shop and asks for me to pull their radio, if it takes less then a couple of minutes we wont charge them, installed/bought at our shop or not...
-Cody

[dohcmark8]

You shouldnt have to take the dash apart. The radio he bought comes with keys to slide between the radio and the cage and the radio pulls right out. Even if he cant figure it out, if the stereo shop he went to wont pull it for free, I'd take my business elsewhere. Hell, when someone stops by my shop and asks for me to pull their radio, if it takes less then a couple of minutes we wont charge them, installed/bought at our shop or not...
-Cody

All he has to do is pull the wood bezel which is just clipped on and unscrew the radio. And he should have the keys if necessary. Takes me less than a minute to pull my radio in my '90 F-150.

[exalted512]

Ahhh, I thought he had the newer body style, there is no bezel to unclip. Either way, its really easy.
-Cody

[dohcmark8]

Ahhh, I thought he had the newer body style, there is no bezel to unclip. Either way, its really easy.
-Cody

Didn't think about that. Because I have the stock radio so I gotta pull the bezel to get at the screws.

But since he has a aftermarket unit he can just pretty much pull it out right? Provided he has the keys?

[appadv]

Trey,

Why don't you go back to the shop to get the radio pulled?

Seems cheaper than going the FM transmitter route.