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cam5860
09-16-2007, 04:38 PM
Well I finally Got My kenwood Excelon amp installed and my 6.5 component set also. The mid driver is a pain to install because the mounting holes are wider than a standard 6.5 install, and the spacers work but looked like shit in my install. So I had to drill 4 holes on the edge of my mounting location. But it all worked out. I took some pictures of my install. Tell me how yall think I done.

beardog03
09-16-2007, 04:43 PM
How does it sound ?

cam5860
09-16-2007, 04:47 PM
Well I just finished up about thirty minutes ago. So I have not really had time to listen much yet. But the tweeters are much brighter thans last years model and the midbass has a pretty good punch to it also. Just not near as deep as the momo's. But actually thats better because the momo's make to much shit rattle in my truck like my side mirrors.

cam5860
09-16-2007, 04:50 PM
Really you don't want to much midbass. Thats what the sub is for. You Just want the midbass to blend in and the db's do just that.

cam5860
09-16-2007, 04:58 PM
I also bought a polk audio DB104 to go with this system. But I have to get my box built first. I'm going to get my local car audio shop build it. Because they built one for me in the past and it fit like a glove. Could keep the seat all the way back.

MacLeod
09-16-2007, 09:41 PM
Yeah, you kinda do want a lot of midbass. Having weak midbass will pull the sub to the rear a ton due to them not blending well. Having good strong midbass allows you to cross the sub over lower and make it seem much more up front.

To keep your doors from rattling, youll have to deaden the door trim panel. Best way is with a layer or Dynamat (or your any other quality brand) then lay a layer of foam or quilt batting or some other soft material on the inside to keep the hard plastic from vibrating against the door panel.

cam5860
09-16-2007, 10:07 PM
So your saying with stronger midbass! I could cross my sub over at say 50 hertz instead of the usual 80 hertz? Trying to get all the rattles out is almost impossible with the momo's they have so much midbass. I think I'm going to enjoy these DB's much better because they have decent midbass, but not so much that it causes window cranks and side mirrors to rattle like hell.

cam5860
09-22-2007, 06:50 PM
I finally got my sub box built for my DB104. But I run into a few problems. After I built the box it was not deep enough for the sub. It was a 1/2 inch to shallow. So I had to build a plate for it. It don't look to bad. Better than I thought it would look. Far as the sub it's sounds better than I thought it would. I cannot believe how hard this suck hits. Shocked the hell out of me.

MacLeod
09-22-2007, 09:42 PM
Good looking box there dude. Attaboy.

Joelsbass
09-22-2007, 10:53 PM
Sharp, clean install... my compliments, it looks great! What's the truck btw?

eloplayspolo
09-22-2007, 11:12 PM
I love the install good work, if only my car was that easy.

vawakemonster
09-22-2007, 11:20 PM
where did you get those spacers?

cam5860
09-23-2007, 12:42 AM
Joel it's a 2000 S-10 pickup regular cab.

cam5860
09-23-2007, 12:48 AM
I just cut another piece of 3/4 plywood for my spacer. I could of just made a ring instead of a plate. I had planned to cut another whole piece to go all the way across the front. But I would of had to move my seat up one notch to do it. I did not won't to sacifice leg room to make it look perfect. So I just cut a square out for the size of the woofer.

cam5860
09-23-2007, 12:52 AM
Without the spacer my bottom mount depth is 5 inches. With the spacer it is 5 3/4 inches. The polk DB subs require 5 1/2 inches of depth to install.

eloplayspolo
09-23-2007, 12:53 AM
what did u use to make the hole for your tweater?

cam5860
09-23-2007, 12:56 AM
A 2 inch Hole saw is all you need to make a perfect cut.

eloplayspolo
09-23-2007, 01:47 AM
im gonna try that out on my door, thanks.