Monitor 10a crossover upgrade

[NJPOLKER]

Since I will have a couple months off this winter I have decided to upgrade my Monitor 10 crossovers and probabley get around to re-finishing them sometime. If sucessful I'll do my SDA1a's sometime.
Current drivers are 4 MW6500 and 2 Passives which are all in great condition. I want to buy 2 new tweeters and not sure which ones will work with new set-up.
I replaced the crossovers a few years ago before I became firmiliar with Club Polk. After removing all speakers and crossovers things seem straight forward except which caps and resistors I need to order to replace the existing ones.
The newer crossover has a date of 3/14/83.

one 34uf cap one 12uf cap one 12j100v not sure what it is

one 2.5ohm 10% 5w resistor one 2.7 ohm 10%5w resistor
and one more thing wrapped in copper wire

I think I just need to order the correct replacements and I'll be all set for awhile. I know that the rdo-194 does not fit the original opening/recess but I can modify it with a router if needed.
Should I replace the internal wiring? It seems to be in good shape but probabley should while I am at it. If I replace it should I use the 16 guage speaker wire I have sitting around?
I have a feeling I will spend more than what they are worth but not doing it for the worth but enjoyment!!

Thanks in advance for your suggestionsand help,
Drew

[Face]

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38755

Everything you've asked should be here somewhere. The search feature works well on this site.

[NJPOLKER]

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38755

Everything you've asked should be here somewhere. The search feature works well on this site.

I must have missed something it that thread because I saw nothing on what parts I need to order to replace original parts with upgrades. Being kinda new to all this I sure could have missed something.
Drew

[F1nut]

one 34uf cap one 12uf cap one 12j100v not sure what it is

one 2.5ohm 10% 5w resistor one 2.7 ohm 10%5w resistor
and one more thing wrapped in copper wire


The 12j 100V is a 12uF mylar cap.

Total needed for both crossovers:

(4) 12uF Sonicap is a good choice for these.
(2) 34uF Either Sonicap (you'll have to run two in parallel as the largest they sell is 30uF) or go with something like Solen, who should have a 34uF.
(2) 2.5 ohm 1% tolerance (5 or 12 watt, your choice) Mills Wire-wound.
(2) 2.7 ohm 1% tolerance (5 or 12 watt, your choice) Mills Wire-wound.

The thing wrapped in copper wire is the inductor. Leave it alone.

The film caps suggested above are far superior to the stock caps, but be forewarned, they are much larger than stock, so plan for that.

[NJPOLKER]

The 12j 100V is a 12uF mylar cap.

Total needed for both crossovers:

(4) 12uF Sonicap is a good choice for these.
(2) 34uF Either Sonicap (you'll have to run two in parallel as the largest they sell is 30uF) or go with something like Solen, who should have a 34uF.
(2) 2.5 ohm 1% tolerance (5 or 12 watt, your choice) Mills Wire-wound.
(2) 2.7 ohm 1% tolerance (5 or 12 watt, your choice) Mills Wire-wound.

The thing wrapped in copper wire is the inductor. Leave it alone.

The film caps suggested above are far superior to the stock caps, but be forewarned, they are much larger than stock, so plan for that.

Thanks Jesse for the information.
I also need to purchase a set of tweeters, which will be the best bet?
Thanks again, Drew

[F1nut]

There's only one choice, the RD0194-1.

[avguytx]

+1 on that choice as I have bought 14 of them so far this year. 4 for my 1C's (which Texas42 has now), 4 for my SRS II's which are sounding better all the time, and 6 for my buddy's SRS 2.3's that I gave him last month. Very smooth sound.

[NJPOLKER]

I will be placing my orders on Monday for the resistors,caps and 2 RDO-194's.

I guess the final question for now is, what should I use to upgrade the internal wiring?

I am going to replace the binding post and I read in one of the posts I should use Vikings.

I also just purchased a new/used cdp a Arcam CD72 to replace my older Denon DCM-360.

Thanks Drew

[george daniel]

[QUOTE=F1nut;735607]The 12j 100V is a 12uF mylar cap.






The thing wrapped in copper wire is the inductor. Leave it alone.


Amen to that,,brother,,,

[F1nut]

I guess the final question for now is, what should I use to upgrade the internal wiring?

I am going to replace the binding post and I read in one of the posts I should use Vikings.


It's not all that necessary to replace the internal wiring. If you feel you must, Sonic Craft has a nice selection. The Cardas chassis wire is great stuff, but you will need a solder pot to work with it. 99% of folks, including me, leave the Polk chassis wire stock.

As for binding posts, I believe you meant Vampire, which would be fine. Another choice is Cardas. Both offer difference grades to suit your wallet and purpose.

[NJPOLKER]

It's not all that necessary to replace the internal wiring. If you feel you must, Sonic Craft has a nice selection. The Cardas chassis wire is great stuff, but you will need a solder pot to work with it. 99% of folks, including me, leave the Polk chassis wire stock.

As for binding posts, I believe you meant Vampire, which would be fine. Another choice is Cardas. Both offer difference grades to suit your wallet and purpose.

Well its Sunday afternoon and I am working on getting the first crossover ready for the resistors and caps. I have made notes so I know what goes where later and I can always look at the untouched crossover if need be.

Since I am in no hurry I think I will replace all internal wiring with solid brass 18 guage wiring. I hope that does not cause any problems! Everything will be resoldered and sealed.

Thanks Drew

[F1nut]

I would not recommend using solid brass wire or any form of brass wire. Stranded copper is a much better choice. Seriously, do not use brass wire.

[NJPOLKER]

I would not recommend using solid brass wire or any form of brass wire. Stranded copper is a much better choice. Seriously, do not use brass wire.

My mistake. I meant to say solid copper wire that is 18 guage. Hopefully that my first and only mistake.
Is solid copper wire ok?

Thanks Drew

[Face]

Why don't more people use the same cable they're using from the amp to the speaker?

[NJPOLKER]

I am sure someone has a great answer for you it's just going to be me. I am learning alot and hope to some day help others here on Club Polk.
Drew

[F1nut]

The stock chassis wire in your speakers is tin plated stranded copper of sufficient grade. Stranded copper is the preferred choice in chassis wire.

[avguytx]

Ditto. I don't know if I've ever heard of internal wiring being solid core in any brand. Stay with the stranded variety.

[NJPOLKER]

So far I have removed everything from the board but the thing I was told not to touch, the inductor. I soldered 16 guage stranded wire to the board for the tweeter and the drivers, all marked so no mistakes. It took some work getting the stranded wire through the tiny holes in the board but I thinned down the wire alittle and it worked fine. I used a rusty old steel dart as a rasp to file out the solder residue left behind in the holes.
Now just have to wait on the caps and resistors, which will be shipped so I will be able to finish next weekend. The RDO-194's too!

Thanks for everyones help,
Drew

[schwarcw]

Good luck with your mod Drew! Jesse gave you very solid recommendations. He's helped me on several projects. Tell us how you like the sound after your tweeters and caps have burned in for about 200 hours. Good luck!

[NJPOLKER]

I will let eveyone know how they sound and maybe even pictures if anyone want to see them.
Drew