RD1098-1 and RD1094-1 difference?

[Loco57]

I know this may have been explained previously but I am getting conflicting information on the above tweeters from Polk. Having contacted Polk via the company I deal with in Australia I have been advised that the correct replacement tweeter for the SDA SRS speaker is the RD1098-1.

My question is what if any difference is their between the RD1098-1 and the RD1094-1 tweeters as I am now thoroughly confused as to what is the correct driver. I previously contacted Polk via the support line on email and received no reply unfortunately.

The company I deal with has 8 drivers in stock of the RD1098-1 variety so is this the correct way to go?

[MillerLiteScott]

The 198's replace the sl 3000 or the tl versions of the Monitor or SDA speaker lines. The 194 replace the sl 1000 sl 2000 and sl 2500( I believe). Some of the long time members may have some more info for you.

Scott

[candyliquor35m]

Here in the states Polk recommends the rd0194 for your speaker but maybe there, they have been using the rd0198.

The rd0198 is a drop in replacement and will work but has a wider connection terminal on the positive so you would have to make some kind of adapter like I've done on my 2.3's to replace the sl2000's with the sl3000's.

I prefer the sl3000's over the rd0194's but I haven't heard the rd0198's.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31066

[Face]

Please tell us which model tweeter you have now, so we can point you in the direction of the CORRECT replacement.

[Face]

I prefer the sl3000's over the rd0194's but I haven't heard the rd0198's.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31066
You stated yourself that your setup is unique. Warm cables, tube amp, etc... Under any other conditions they will be bright.

[heiney9]

If you have the sl2000 (fisheye, opaque dome) tweeter as your original tweeter then the RD0194-1 is the CORRECT replacement.

If you have the sl2500 or sl3000, both blackish/goldish dome with a foam ring around the dome then the RD0198-1 is the CORRECT replacement.

Since the info on the tweeters is proprietary there is no spec sheet or freq. response plots to show the difference. Rest assured based on what Ken at Polk has stated and what members who have used both have stated, they ARE DIFFERENT both electrically and sonically.

One other thing is the terminals on the RD0's are not the same. The 194-1 has (2) small male connectors whereas the 198-1 has 1 large and 1 small male connectors. That's the easy way to tell the difference between the two.

It is unfortunate that e-mail doesn't get answered where phone calls get answered right away.

My guess is your supplier is trying to move those RD0's and is feeding you a line or they possible don't know or feel that the difference is negligible.

I hope this helps and I pray this thread doesn't spiral way off topic like the other one. I know with you being litterally a world away that using the RD0198-1 might be more convenient since your dealer has them (supposedly) you are going to have to make that call yourself. They aren't exactly correct and may or may not sound better than the originals.

I am really suspect of your dealer because first they told you they had sl3000's and sl2500's now they have the RD0198-1, seems fishy to me. If you can look at the physical tweeters they have you should be able to tell.

sl2500 and sl3000 have a blackish/goldish dome with a foam ring around the dome.

RD0198-1 has one large and one small male connector's on the back

RD0194-1 has 2 small male connector's on the back.

If they won't let you see them or you can't because they are logistically too far away from where you are at, be sure and ask about returning them if they are not as advertised.

Good luck and again the best way yo contact Polk CS is by phone.

H9

[heiney9]

Here in the states Polk recommends the rd0194 for your speaker but maybe there, they have been using the rd0198.

The rd0198 is a drop in replacement and will work but has a wider connection terminal on the positive so you would have to make some kind of adapter like I've done on my 2.3's to replace the sl2000's with the sl3000's.

I prefer the sl3000's over the rd0194's but I haven't heard the rd0198's.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31066

This is ridiculous to say "maybe there they have been using the rd0198-1". If they are, it's WRONG. It will work, yes but it's not the best choice but in his case may be the only choice because of his location. I'm assuming your dealer doesn't know too much and really the RD0 phenomenon is mainly on this board. You could call Polk in the states and get someone in CS who hasn't heard of the RD0. They may still send it to you as the replacement but may not know it by name.

[F1nut]

Sda Srs - Rd0194-1
Sda Srs 1.2 - Rd0194-1
Sda Srs 1.2tl - Rd0198-1

[F1nut]

CL, for the love of God STFU and stop confusing the guy.

[candyliquor35m]

You stated yourself that your setup is unique. Warm cables, tube amp, etc... Under any other conditions they will be bright.

And the moral of the story is: "There's other ways to tame a bright tweeter than replacing it."

If I recall. Loco has not even indicated that he thought his sl2000's were bright. He's just wanting to replace one that gave out on him.

On a side note, I hope no one is throwing away their old tweeters. They would be invaluable to someone wanting to restore their polks to factory condition.

Loco,

Send a email to Ken in customer service and he will most likely answer your questions promptly: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/member.php?u=13098

[heiney9]

And the moral of the story is: "There's other ways to tame a bright tweeter than replacing it."

If I recall. Loco has not even indicated that he thought his sl2000's were bright. He's just wanting to replace one that gave out on him.

On a side note, I hope no one is throwing away their old tweeters. They would be invaluable to someone wanting to restore their polks to factory condition.

Loco,

Send a email to Ken in customer service and he will most likely answer your questions promptly: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/member.php?u=13098

JHC, the moral of the story is "he didn't ask how to tame a bright tweeter". He asked what the CORRECT replacement tweeter was according to Polk Audio.

I can't believe you're not getting this!!!!!!!!!!

H9

[Loco57]

Gentlemen,
I went to the agent yesterday and physically saw the tweeters yes they are shiny black with one large and one small terminal no surround and without any identifying decal on the magnet area.

To clarify something the dealer didn't say they had sl2500's in stock but stated that they had sl3000's that were a later replacement for both the sl2000 & sl2500 units I can only assume that the RD098-1 part number cross references to the old sl3000 tweeters.

I had a call from the dealer this morning and was informed that PolK US had advised that the RD098-1 was the correct replacment item for my sl2000 tweeters and that on checking they had 8 items in stock.

It is more likely that information on the RD094-1 option is not prevelent amongst the service/spare parts in POLK US than any issues I am dealing here or any ulterior motives on the part of the supplier.

Basically I just want to make the right selection first time!

[candyliquor35m]

The cheapest route for you is for someone here to mail you a sl2000 which I'll be glad to do for $30USD. Heck someone might even do it for free or just for shipping.

[F1nut]

RD0194-1, period.

[heiney9]

Gentlemen,
I went to the agent yesterday and physically saw the tweeters yes they are shiny black with one large and one small terminal no surround and without any identifying decal on the magnet area.

Then that is the RD0198-1.

To clarify something the dealer didn't say they had sl2500's in stock but stated that they had sl3000's that were a later replacement for both the sl2000 & sl2500 units I can only assume that the RD098-1 part number cross references to the old sl3000 tweeters.

The sl3000 DID replace the sl2000 but they are not cross compatible. The speakers that use the sl3000 have a different x-over. The sl2500 also replaced the sl2000, but in the Monitor/RTA line only, again not cross compatible as the x-overs are different.

I had a call from the dealer this morning and was informed that PolK US had advised that the RD098-1 was the correct replacment item for my sl2000 tweeters and that on checking they had 8 items in stock.

Not sure who called but that is not a correct statement.

It is more likely that information on the RD094-1 option is not prevelent amongst the service/spare parts in POLK US than any issues I am dealing here or any ulterior motives on the part of the supplier.

Internally at Polk HQ the RD0194-1 may go by a different moniker. The sl2000, sl2500, sl3000 haven't been manufactured for many years but they might still call them that, but there is no more stock of these tweeters at Polk HQ unless they unearth a stash from a while ago. :)

Basically I just want to make the right selection first time!

RD0194-1 is correct; and it sounds like from the physical desc. you gave in the first paragraph those are the RD0198-1 the dealer has.

Good luck

H9

[Loco57]

Candy,
not sure why you believe I have a dud tweeter in the system as all are operating.

H9,
I belive you are right with regards to the mixing of part numbers verses old references if you teel me my description is correct for the RD0194-1 is as above I will ring now and secure the items.


Now all I need is for my electronic components to arrive and then all will be complete for the upgrade just hope it will all be worth it. I have document exactly what I have done step by step with photos so when it is all finished I will post with the results.

Hopefully it will all be good! thanks to all once again.

[avguytx]

Here we go again...

[candyliquor35m]

Then that is the RD0194-1 which is the correct replacement tweeter

When I ordered 2 rd0194's from polk to replace my sl2000's, they sent me tweeters with 2 narrow terminals.

When I replaced my sl3000's with sl2000's, the sl3000's had a wide terminal and a narrow terminal so I had to make a wire adapter to hook them up.

Loco,

Polk might think you have SRS 1.2TL's. Can you give us more info like the serial #'s, whether you have the blade/blade or the pin/blade interconnect cable or any of the other distinguishing differences between the SRS and the SRS 1.2TL.

[heiney9]

HOLD the phone Loco!!!!!

I made a mistake!!!! The RD0194-1 has (2) small male terminals whereas the The RD0198-1 has one small, one large. I apologize I don't know where my head was.

It appears according to your desc. they have RD0198-1's at your dealer.

Pics are hard to come by but here's a couple of the RD0194-1. The only way to tell them apart is the terminals.

Again I apologize for almost having you get the wrong ones.

[heiney9]

Also if it hasn't been mentioned KEEP the tweeter gasket material from the originals as the new ones don't come with gaskets.

H9

[Marty913]

Here we go again...

Before "we go again", I'd like to congratulate Loco57 on his composure, well thought out questions, and especially his remaining focused on the task at hand (opinions aside). I look forward to seeing his upgrade report.

[avguytx]

I didn't mean anything against him...quite the contrary. I commend him as well on he well thought out questions on the speakers and wanting to find the correct and proper replacement.

[Loco57]

Marty,
thankyou for the compliment, I assume your reference to "opinions" is related to the comment in previous posts on cabinet build quality on my speaker set?

[F1nut]

WTF??? I told you a week ago what tweeters you needed, why is there still a question?

"The only tweeters that you can use in your SDA SRS's are the SL2000 or the RD0194-1. That's it, period.

The SL2500 did not replace the SL2000, nor did the SL3000 replace either of those. They were simply tweeters with different specs used in different speakers. Again, neither one will work properly in your speakers."

Hell, I didn't even get a reach around. :(

[candyliquor35m]

Yeah we kind of discussed this already http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63121 but we can do it again if you want.

[Loco57]

Speakers are ordered will pickup Monday, what can sometimes be confused with stupidity can also be related to thoroughness I subscribe to the second column:D

I can appreciate your frustration in providing the correct information to a question posed only to have it queried in a second post ( not my intention ) but in my case over here I am dealing with suppliers that are not privy to information commonly circulating in the US.

So you see my dilemma when I get conflicting information it is best to see the item with your own eyes and make the informed decision and this is what I have done.

The selection I have made and the end result will see if it has all been worthwhile, as stated earlier the least I can do is document what has been done and post for all those interested in the results.

Before I get to that stage I will need some information on the best way to post this information.

[candyliquor35m]

Just review the various topics: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/index.php and post away.

[heiney9]

Just review the various topics: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/index.php and post away.

Ummmm yeah, he's not an 8 year old he can figure which forum to post in. I'm gonna say he means how to arrange the information and probably how to post pictures. :rolleyes:

[BaggedLancer]

This thread became entirely too complicated for such a simple question. Thank you Face and heiney9 for grabbing hold and taking care of business.

CL, what is wrong with you? The man asked for a fact.....not your opinion....I'm willing to bet he could care less about your opinion.

[george daniel]

All this? over a simple tweeter replacement?:confused:

[Marty913]

Marty,
thankyou for the compliment, I assume your reference to "opinions" is related to the comment in previous posts on cabinet build quality on my speaker set?

Primarily that but also the tweeter discussion which in my opinion (there's that word again) digressed into opinions (again) about "what he said versus what he meant". All harmless really and good fun nonetheless.

Speakers are ordered will pickup Monday, what can sometimes be confused with stupidity can also be related to thoroughness I subscribe to the second column:D

I can appreciate your frustration in providing the correct information to a question posed only to have it queried in a second post ( not my intention ) but in my case over here I am dealing with suppliers that are not privy to information commonly circulating in the US.

So you see my dilemma when I get conflicting information it is best to see the item with your own eyes and make the informed decision and this is what I have done.

The selection I have made and the end result will see if it has all been worthwhile, as stated earlier the least I can do is document what has been done and post for all those interested in the results.

Before I get to that stage I will need some information on the best way to post this information.

Loco57 - Darquekight, nspindel, myself, and others all have upgrade threads that could be used as examples. I can give you specifics on mine (email me) and I'm sure the others would as well.

Before "we go again", I'd like to congratulate Loco57 on his composure, well thought out questions, and especially his remaining focused on the task at hand (opinions aside). I look forward to seeing his upgrade report.

I didn't mean anything against him...quite the contrary. I commend him as well on he well thought out questions on the speakers and wanting to find the correct and proper replacement.

Kip, I wasn't referring to you - just the "here we go again" which I completely agreed with you about. It looked like the thread was starting to become a little argumentative (which it did, so good call there).

[Loco57]

Marty,
had a good read on the rules for this forum and if any of my comments were construed as rubbishing the POLK product that in no way was my intention. My comments were an observation of the speakers that I own and their condition when I started this refurb project on them.

I employ a number of people and yes sometimes things get done not quite how I would have liked them but you cannot supervise all aspects of a product personally and their are commercial considerations to take into account.

Correct me if I am wrong but in 1988-89 the SDA SRS speakers in the US would have been in the $3,000-3,500 US range? I paid just on $10,000 AUS for these speakers in 1989 and I was surprised at the finished internal construction of the cabinets.

My observations of my speakers were that they were not designed without a rigid bracing system in place just that the glue application in more areas than not was dissappointing and the alignment of the corners on one cabinet was more than 3mm out.

On a $10k pair of speakers I think it not unreasonable to expect a little better is all I am getting at, issue addressed, it is hard to describe the change in the cabinets after the internal bracing mods I have now completed on both speakers cabinets so very happy.

Picked up the new tweeters and yes remembered to keep the foam seals so now I am just waiting for the new electronics to arrive and then I can get on with the Crossover upgrade get it back together and give them a run.

I have also been thinking about the issue of potentially bright tweeters and how to attenuate them ( if required ) a company we use here to cut Gortex teflon gaskets that we use could cut me some rabbit felt rings to fit over the tweeter body and by varying the thickness I could adjust the response of the tweeters?

I understand that certain tweeters only operate at varying frequency ranges on the SDA's and this could be the secret to fine tuning the finished product as part of the internal works has involved physically separating the 4 tweeters in their own chamber using 18mm MDF board.

On the one speaker that I have completed the bracing and deadening works on (but no other mods except wiring upgrade and terminal block) the sound definately showed a more controlled tighter sound all be it at a lower sound level compared to the non modded cabinet.

Time and experimenting will tell I suppose.

BL, everyone is entitled to their opinion and that includes CL if we all thought the same things I guess this would be a boring forum, no doubt many here would not agree with me on some of my posts or comments but that is what makes this place work.

The short time I have been a member on this forum I have learn't many things and this is what started me on the upgrade road with these speakers rather than just sell them off. It has given me an interest to see just how well I can get them to perform and once these are finished I have a pair of Magnepan Tympani 1D's that I will start on and I only hope their might be a forum like this one to draw information from on how to do it the right way.

To date I would like to thank everyone for their help on every question I have asked. Geeez just looked back on this post what a mouth full!

Cheers.

[Marty913]

NONE of your posts have been construed negatively by me. If I have given you that impression, then it is I who owe you the apology. You seem to be on a worthwhile (and well thought out) quest to make you Polk's the best that they can be. That is exactly what it's all about. I'm looking forward to the posting of your results.