Capacitor break-in

[nspindel]

I'm very intrigued by the necessity to break-in a capacitor. Please note that I am NOT questioning the need to do it - I fully appreciate that it's necessary. I recently re-did my SDA XO's with Sonicaps, and I was dumbfounded by the change in sound over the first ten hours, so I know something's going on in there!!!

I'm just wondering exactly what is happening during break-in. The recommendation seems to be 340 hours for the Gen 1's that I used in the XO's. I also had my Squeezebox modded, including some Sonicap Platinums. Bolder Cable, who did the SB3 mods, recommends 550 continuous hours for the break-in on the Platinums.

Edit: Further conversations with Bolder Cable, and now I realize that I misunderstood the original instructions. Continuous playback is NOT necessary. Hours accumulate regardless of the unit being powered down and out of use.

What is happening during that time? What is it about capacitors that requires so much continuous usage for them to "cook"? Why does the break-in need to be continuous? What would happen if I played the SB3 for 275 hours, turned it off for 1/2 hour, then played it for another 275 hours? Have I really only broken the caps in for 275 hours because I powered it off?

Edit: As I said above, this is bogus, it's not necessary to do this continuously. This does not, however, change my overall question about wondering what the whole process is really all about...

Again, I'm not criticizing doing this - I'm doing it myself as we speak. I'm just looking to understand what's going on in those little babies....

[ben62670]

I never heard of the need to do it continuously. I also wonder what they say about increasing the volume to cook the caps faster? Joe used the Sonicaps, and thought for sure he messed something up in the upgrade process. I think it was about 350hrs when they finally broke through.

[Face]

As far as the Sonic Caps go, the first 100 hours will make the biggest difference. After about 300-400 hours there won't be anymore noticeable change.

[nspindel]

So putting aside the number of hours it takes for the time being, since different people have different ears and therefore different opinions, what is actually happening to the caps during the break-in?

[rml]

So putting aside the number of hours it takes for the time being, since different people have different ears and therefore different opinions, what is actually happening to the caps during the break-in?

Below is for Black Gate capacitors: (I'm not sure about Sonicaps)


The Idling Process

If a Black Gate capacitor mounted on an electronic device is actuated, a signal current flows into it and the electrodes are gradually activated, reducing non-linear distortion and phase distortion substantially while improving the efficiency of power transfer efficiency. The time required for this process varies widely with the capacity, voltage and signal level. A total of about 30 hours is the standard level. Once this process of idling is completed, the effect continues as long as the capacitor is kept at the same place and the operating environment does not undergo a substantial change. The effect of idling has been proved with all types of electronic equipment-analog, digital, high-frequency and other devices. It must be noted that idling is different from aging, which applies a direct current voltage without giving signals.


The entire article can be found here:

http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/blackgate/bgtech.htm

Hope this helps! :)

[jakelm]

I put mine in the microwave for 3 minutes and 18 seconds...
















nevermind, thats popcorn

[treitz3]

I'm just wondering exactly what is happening during break-in.

Saturation of the charge for discharge.

[rml]

Replacing caps with popcorn...you get any popping sounds at loud volume?

[nspindel]

Below is for Black Gate capacitors: (I'm not sure about Sonicaps)


The Idling Process

If a Black Gate capacitor mounted on an electronic device is actuated, a signal current flows into it and the electrodes are gradually activated, reducing non-linear distortion and phase distortion substantially while improving the efficiency of power transfer efficiency. The time required for this process varies widely with the capacity, voltage and signal level. A total of about 30 hours is the standard level. Once this process of idling is completed, the effect continues as long as the capacitor is kept at the same place and the operating environment does not undergo a substantial change. The effect of idling has been proved with all types of electronic equipment-analog, digital, high-frequency and other devices. It must be noted that idling is different from aging, which applies a direct current voltage without giving signals.


The entire article can be found here:

http://www.acoustic-dimension.com/blackgate/bgtech.htm

Hope this helps! :)


Interesting read, at least the 5% of it that I understood :eek: Black Gate went out of business, didn't they?

[Lasareath]

I did 400 hours at varying levels and I played different types of music as well

[hearingimpared]

I played a full range classical piece over and over again for 340 hours straight. It was suggested to me by someone who knows his stuff that it took 200 hours to burn in his Sonicaps. On mine, after 200 hours, I still was getting harsh, brassy, tinny, highs and thin midrange although the bass improved almost immediately.

It actually wasn't until after 340 hours that 1.2 TLs sounded consistently good.

I do want to tell you that I did stop it a few times to play some different music but I don't think that caused any backslide of the burnin process.

[rml]

Interesting read, at least the 5% of it that I understood :eek: Black Gate went out of business, didn't they?

To the best of my knowledge, Black Gates are out of production, but you can still find most of the values if you google around.

[spkrdtr]

Attached here is a study I did last year using an analysis tool called spectral waveform analysis to look at caps of widely different prices and also, briefly, capacitor break-in. An interesting technology which helps one see and measure the spectrum of sound displayed in the time domain.

Has anyone here read up or know anything about psychoacoustic masking? It's basically a human phenomenon attributable to one's gradual acceptance of objectionable sound over a long period of time. Sound familiar?

It's discussed and explained to some extent at Wikipedia under 'psychoacoustics'.

[ben62670]

Attached here is a study I did last year using an analysis tool called spectral waveform analysis to look at caps of widely different prices and also, briefly, capacitor break-in. An interesting technology which helps one see and measure the spectrum of sound displayed in the time domain.

Has anyone here read up or know anything about psychoacoustic masking? It's basically a human phenomenon attributable to one's gradual acceptance of objectionable sound over a long period of time. Sound familiar?

It's discussed and explained to some extent at Wikipedia under 'psychoacoustics'.

Don't waste your time reading this. Look at the mic he is using to do the tests. Hey wow a 4.2uf cap is still a 4.2uf cap after breakin.
Have you tried the test where you use quality HiFi equipment from source top speakers, and your ears?

Its cool if you enjoy studies like that, but it has no relevance in HiFi.

Ben
I want my 10 minutes back:(

[woofiepaws]

Just eyeballing all the graphs, I don't see much that is different between the different caps.

I do know that my ears hear a difference in my 1.2tls after the upgrade to Mills and Sonicaps.

[spkrdtr]

Ben and woofiepaws:
Capacitor break-in has be hotly debated for quite sometime now on many audio-related web sites. It's basically been a subjectivists vs objectivists debate. That is, non-engineers who's ears are their best test instrument vs the engineers who tend to rely more on hard data than anecdotal observations.
The study I did was simply an attempt to add some hard data from a different approach to what is a very difficult audio attribute to pin down.

There is also a semi-formal study done by a group of expert speaker diy'rs (published somewhere on the web) who did a double blind listening study during one of their annual gatherings to compare caps of differing quality. The end result was there wasn't a better than 50/50 chance of telling the high end from the low end.

OTOH, take another 10 minutes guys and read about psychoacoustic masking. It's an area of scientific study that is well documented by scientists much more qualified than I. Therein lies the proof that we humans unconsiously adapt our listening to accomodate our environment, be it good or bad.

So, what's really 'breaking in"? Our capacitors or our brains?

[nspindel]

I'm not an engineer, and for the most part when I look at the graphs I don't even know when they mean. I like music, I enjoy nice hi-fi equipment, I can follow instructions that others give, and I know how to work a soldering iron, which is how I came to my Sonicap upgrades to my XO's. All I can say is that something definitely happens to these caps. I described on another thread how the introductory "heartbeat" at the beginning of the MFSL 24K Dark Side of the Moon sounded like complete static for the first several hours after I fired them up. It took about ten hours before it started sounding like anything resembling what it really is.

[heiney9]

OTOH, take another 10 minutes guys and read about psychoacoustic masking. It's an area of scientific study that is well documented by scientists much more qualified than I. Therein lies the proof that we humans unconsiously adapt our listening to accomodate our environment, be it good or bad.

So, what's really 'breaking in"? Our capacitors or our brains?

Psychoacoustic masking is a real phenomenon and obviously the degree varies person to person. One thing I can state is with the sl2000 (all gear and music being the same) I used to get a headache after about 45 minutes of listening. No amount of psychoacoustic masking could prevent that. Several other flaws were always noticed in certain vocals and piano (resonance, harmonic inconsistencies, unnatural ringing) which could make you cringe when listening. No amount of psychoacoustic masking could make me forget or not notice these issues.

With the RD0's much of the above stuff improved by a large degree. Redoing a x-over improved things even more. It is a true phenomenon but an attentive listener very familiar with the source material can overcome this phenomenon and make a more honest assessment of what they hear.

It's great not to get a headache when listening to music for hour after hour. The sl2000 almost always gave me a headache during longer listening sessions.

H9

[zingo]

I just pulled a used Sonicap and a new one of the same value and they both have equal measurement on my DMM; I conclude there is no difference.

[heiney9]

I just pulled a used Sonicap and a new one of the same value and they both have equal measurement on my DMM; I conclude there is no difference.

To bad a DMM doesn't simulate the actual load the cap is under while being used in a loudspeaker system.

[ShinAce]

Exactly, measuring capacitance is a DC measurement. In the audio world, caps have an AC function only. We do not listen to DC.

A spectral analysis would be required to see differences.

[zingo]

:D There was more than one joke there fellas. :D

I just wanted to stir up some fun. The change on my 4.1TLs after 115 hours has been very pleasurable.

[ShinAce]

:D There was more than one joke there fellas. :D

I just wanted to stir up some fun. The change on my 4.1TLs after 115 hours has been very pleasurable.

More than one? Ahh, man, I didn't even catch the first joke. You forgot to mention that it is a 2.2 uF cap on the tweeter.

I need to leave this office and start my weekend.

[zingo]

I just pulled a used Sonicap and a new one of the same value and they both have equal measurement on my DMM; I conclude there is no difference.

Joke one: burn-in makes no difference

Joke two: a DMM is a good piece of equipment to measure a cap

Man... it has been a long week.

[ShinAce]

I wish I could find a pic of someone roasting a cap with a propane torch.

To get back on topic, does nayone have comments on the necessity to burn in caps on a low pass crossover versus a high pass one? The high pass crossover has the reproduced signal going entirely through the cap. A low pass crossover has the cap bypass the unwanted frequencies.

[domesda2b]

Psychoacoustic masking is a real phenomenon and obviously the degree varies person to person. One thing I can state is with the sl2000 (all gear and music being the same) I used to get a headache after about 45 minutes of listening. No amount of psychoacoustic masking could prevent that. Several other flaws were always noticed in certain vocals and piano (resonance, harmonic inconsistencies, unnatural ringing) which could make you cringe when listening. No amount of psychoacoustic masking could make me forget or not notice these issues.

With the RD0's much of the above stuff improved by a large degree. Redoing a x-over improved things even more. It is a true phenomenon but an attentive listener very familiar with the source material can overcome this phenomenon and make a more honest assessment of what they hear.

It's great not to get a headache when listening to music for hour after hour. The sl2000 almost always gave me a headache during longer listening sessions.

H9

Well said, I have two rdo tweets coming order. I have a feeling the sl2000 have been annoying me like that for over 20 years! We'll see, I totally agree..

[F1nut]

Your 20 year annoyance is just about over.

[ben62670]

Ben and woofiepaws:
Capacitor break-in has be hotly debated for quite sometime now on many audio-related web sites. It's basically been a subjectivists vs objectivists debate. That is, non-engineers who's ears are their best test instrument vs the engineers who tend to rely more on hard data than anecdotal observations.
The study I did was simply an attempt to add some hard data from a different approach to what is a very difficult audio attribute to pin down.

There is also a semi-formal study done by a group of expert speaker diy'rs (published somewhere on the web) who did a double blind listening study during one of their annual gatherings to compare caps of differing quality. The end result was there wasn't a better than 50/50 chance of telling the high end from the low end.

OTOH, take another 10 minutes guys and read about psychoacoustic masking. It's an area of scientific study that is well documented by scientists much more qualified than I. Therein lies the proof that we humans unconsiously adapt our listening to accomodate our environment, be it good or bad.

So, what's really 'breaking in"? Our capacitors or our brains?

Another friggen scientist:rolleyes:
Please take your head out of your ass. I swear you can hear so much better that way. I don't need charts to tell me what sounds better.

[F1nut]

Go Ben!

[ben62670]

Go Ben!
Was I too harsh?

Seriously spkrdtr F1nut told me when I first got serious about this hobby that "A mind is like a paraschute... unless it is open..."

[F1nut]

Not in my book. :D

[heiney9]

Your 20 year annoyance is just about over.

LOL- yes it is!! Before the tweeter replacement offered by Polk I had no option and as Doro stated in another thread it was an acceptable tweeter when those Polk models were new. Now with the RD0's there is no comparison; the RD0's are superior in every aspect.

I was very stubborn when I learned of the replacement about 3 years ago and never replaced the sl2000 w/RD0's in my RTA-11T's; I should have as soon as I found out about the RD0's (or as they were known then the sl2000T).

H9

[domesda2b]

Your 20 year annoyance is just about over.

You mean somewhere someplace there's hope and a positive note! That made me feel real good. We'll see... Some people may like SL2000 tweeters using tube but I'm using solid state, so. I don't need a chart to tell me what sounds good either. The SL2000 tweeters are ok for low listening levels and classical strings but turn it up and headache for me. It does something to female voices. Someone else on this forum mentioned a spitting effect. If you listen real good maybe not at first but you will notice it if you have good ears or play music. Maybe I just don't know what I'm talking about but I know anytime someone else listened to it they said the same thing. TINNY AND HARSH. Is it the tweeters, I don't know. I'll buy anything new if I think it's better. So silk domes have holes in them?(laugh)

[F1nut]

No, the new silk domes do not have holes in them.

[domesda2b]

Doesn't silk naturally have pores in the material or is it doped? Thanks

[spkrdtr]

Was I too harsh?

Seriously spkrdtr F1nut told me when I first got serious about this hobby that "A mind is like a paraschute... unless it is open..."

Yup. Hey, what do I know, I'm just a hokey-Polkie. Guru's and experts always know best. Sorry to have bored you guys with a different point of view.......

[ShinAce]

Doesn't silk naturally have pores in the material or is it doped? Thanks

Both!

[F1nut]

The Polk tweeters are rubberized silk domes.

[zingo]

The Polk tweeters are rubberized silk domes.

That's weird, the last pair of RDOs I got in appear to be pure gold; although the box does say "RDO-198G"...

[domesda2b]

The Polk tweeters are rubberized silk domes.

Interesting

[domesda2b]

Does that mean I can turn them up louder and they won't vibrate?

[domesda2b]

Guess I'm trying to understand how the coil interacts with the dome. We'll see. When I took the dome seal loose on the stock plastic dome it didn't seem to effect it much so isn't that just a dust cover? later I sealed it back down even knowing the new rdo's were on the way. Hard to say shrug. Pretty much burned out on this issue.. Does it sound good? does it leak? Ok then, Bye

[ben62670]

Yup. Hey, what do I know, I'm just a hokey-Polkie. Guru's and experts always know best. Sorry to have bored you guys with a different point of view.......

Its all about what you hear. It has nothing to do with specs. I am into audio like many others here. Everyone has different tastes. Stick around. Experiment a little. Hear it for yourself. I used to believe same valued/specked components would sound the same. I was pig headed for a long time. I thought these guru's with a bunch of post were all rich dummies/snobs chasing olives in their martini glasses while looking down on other peoples audio gear. Most of them will offer good solid advice just to be helpful. When 9 out of 10 senior members try to tell you something it is kinda like ask the audience. Usually they are right.
BTW Welcome to Club Polk
Ben

[domesda2b]

Exchange ideas on do-it-yourself projects with other experts; from furniture builders to obsessive compulsive tweakers. Thanks

[F1nut]

Having fun, Sal?

[domesda2b]

My crossover is out because I'm updating tweeters and safety guard polyswitch on my SDA 2B's. Looking at the PCB there's not much to it. Initially I see 3 capacitors and 1 resistor. Sticker says rev B 1987. It would be nice to solder in some new capacitors for fun. I need help or more direction. Might as well do everything at once if I can get the parts reasonable. how much could it cost?

[ben62670]

Check partsexpress.com I have tried a few different caps, and for a cheap experiment with good results I recommend trying the Dayton caps, and using the mills resistors. Roughly $60

[domesda2b]

Check partsexpress.com I have tried a few different caps, and for a cheap experiment with good results I recommend trying the Dayton caps, and using the mills resistors. Roughly $60

Cool, now which capacitors. I see a light blue 20uf a sliver blue 40uf and a yellow can labeled T1 E-0012-1 12J and the grey ceramic 5 watt resistor. Am I missing something there is the safety guard i see. One other burgandy dark purple small component? I mean it ain't that big O board!

[domesda2b]

I want to upgrade my caps so bad sitting here looking at the board components and it looks like it could be some great satisfaction. can tell I get excited around soldering irons. LoL.. Suppose I'll need musical SOLDER NOW! Thanks Polk forum you really started something. jokes

[nspindel]

Cool, now which capacitors. I see a light blue 20uf a sliver blue 40uf and a yellow can labeled T1 E-0012-1 12J and the grey ceramic 5 watt resistor. Am I missing something there is the safety guard i see. One other burgandy dark purple small component? I mean it ain't that big O board!

All of them :)

I just did my 2b's with Sonicaps, have a look here:

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62106

[nspindel]

Folks, I'm heading outta town for a week (assuming American Airlines doesn't hose me tomorrow morning). This thread seems to have gone a bit OT, I'd still love to hear more about my original question as to what's actually going on inside these caps during the break-in process. Hopefully when I get back there'll be some good enlightenment on this topic.

See y'all in a week.

Spin

[domesda2b]

Ok thanks, greatly appreciated

[WilliamM2]

These are the Dayton's that Ben was recommending:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-442

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-436

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-430

[ben62670]

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55888
Have fun!
2 each
12uf, 20uf, and 40uf
most omit the 750pf cap (little bypass one)
2 2.7ohm mills resistors
PE has mills for $3.25 each in 2.5ohms (plenty close enough)
PE also has Dayton Audio 2.7ohms for $1.25 each if you want same valued resistors as stock.
Me I would use the Mills. The resistors used in this crossover design are in series with the signal, and are before any other crossover component therefore have no adverse effect to the XO Point, or slope. They are just used to attenuate the signal so the tweeter is not over bearing.

[domesda2b]

K, I have a basket going at partsexpress.com. Looking at Dayton DMPC-40 40uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitors. What uf value is the yellow cap, it doesn't say or can't read?
I am going with new inductor coil as described in nspindel's thread listed above.

[domesda2b]

excuse me i see it now 12uf thanks

[domesda2b]

Wow iI'm done shopping al except maybe better musical solder hehe! You guys are the greatest! Thanks so much that was painless as possible! What a great forum!

[domesda2b]

yeah the little purple brown one I see that

[domesda2b]

Do you have the link to the mills and dayton 5 watt 2.7 ohm resistors? It doesn't say mills on the one I'm looking at for .25 cents. Wirewound resistor right?

[domesda2b]

Never mind I found them, they're in audio grade resistors thanks

[ben62670]

You are doing an excellent job of answering your questions:p:)

[domesda2b]

You are doing an excellent job of answering your questions:p:)
You're a fantastic human being my friend and I couldn't of done it without some good directions. Hey just point me in the right direction. I'm almost ready to check out! I even remembered the musical solder WHOO-HO! Nothing to it. I'm excited.

[ben62670]

The Rat Shack silver solder is very easy to work with, and is cheap. I use that a lot. The Dayton Silver solder is harder to work with. Lots of guys like the Cardis solder. I have not tried this stuff yet. Just do one XO at a time. As far as "fantastic human being" I fall quite short in this department, but I appreciate the compliment. I am just passing one what I have learned here, DIYaudio, and many failures.
Ben

[domesda2b]

Yeah that high silver content doesn't stick well. Thanks, any help is appreciated. this is gonna be fun. Scratch the dayton music solder.

[domesda2b]

PE doesn't list a rat shack solder

[domesda2b]

Found cardas solder checking out of PE hopefully I have everything. Ahh the smell of quality solder!!

[ben62670]

PE doesn't list a rat shack solder

LOL. Radio Shack is refered to as "rat shack". The solder is still silver solder. About $6.

[Face]

I found the Rat Shack silver solder to be junk too. It only sticks to my carpet.

[domesda2b]

LOL, Hey thanks again. I got everything on the shopping list. Got the idea of using shrink tape 3m double stick foam pads and 14" wire ties. time I checked out The bill was 160 dollars! So why am I upgrading the stock inductor coil again. So it sound better(laugh)

[domesda2b]

Shh I found some carda solder

[domesda2b]

Don't forget the Go-ril-la-la-la-la glue tape! hey Gorilla glue expands and might work great to attach the new inductor coil. Don't you just love a job well done! Falling inductor coils will not be tolerated!

[ben62670]

I found the Rat Shack silver solder to be junk too. It only sticks to my carpet.

You using the fine gage stuff on a spool? I use that stuff exclusively for electronics. That stuff bonds great for me. You need 40 watts to use silver as opposed to 25 for regular stuff.

[ben62670]

Don't forget the Go-ril-la-la-la-la glue tape! hey Gorilla glue expands and might work great to attach the new inductor coil. Don't you just love a job well done! Falling inductor coils will not be tolerated!

Which inductor are you speaking of?
The large one?
If so are you looking at the Erse iron core?

[domesda2b]

Yeah the one nspindel recommended Ersa Super Q 15mH 16AWG Inductor coil! Thanks buddies

[domesda2b]

Right? Confirm if you will?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=266-954

[Face]

I believe it may have been in a tube. It didn't didn't melt too easily either.

I've been using WBT and it works fantastic. Low melting point, and sticks to everything. I have some Cardas silver here I have yet to try though.

I believe my iron is a 30 watt unit. I would be afraid to use anything larger on a crossover circuit, especially from a 30 year old Tannoy or 50 year old tube amp.

[domesda2b]

I want to cook some capacitors and solder.

[domesda2b]

The dual watt 20/40 station I have has a toggle switch.

[ben62670]

I believe it may have been in a tube. It didn't didn't melt too easily either.

I've been using WBT and it works fantastic. Low melting point, and sticks to everything. I have some Cardas silver here I have yet to try though.

I believe my iron is a 30 watt unit. I would be afraid to use anything larger on a crossover circuit, especially from a 30 year old Tannoy or 50 year old tube amp.

Thanks face. Yes the stuff in a tube is a pain. Many are scared of higher wattage irons. Hotter irons are better than lower watt irons in most situations. If you use a 25watt iron, and have to leave it on the part for longer time to get the part hot enough to make the solder bond well it is actually worse for the component than bringing up the heat fast, and making the joint, and cooling it quickly.

[domesda2b]

Going to bed to dream about capacitors.. Should be a piece of cake compared to finding the loose solder joints on my yamaha preamp last week took 40 hours and some chopsticks to find. Gives me great satisfaction. Get some sleep, you members have kept this polkie up all night and well entertained. Hope all the work will be worth it. Thank you!

[domesda2b]

Nothing worse than a cold iron!

[domesda2b]

Which inductor are you speaking of?
The large one?
If so are you looking at the Erse iron core?

If you look at that coil it has mounting tabs so why are you guys mounting it to the stock coil? Could mount to the inside of speaker cabinet as long as screws don't go all the way through even if they did could use nuts and bolts with sealer or glue double stick tape whatever. I think that would be much more secure you are relying on plastic to hold the weight of the new replacement inductor!

[domesda2b]

In fact the capacitors don't have to necessarily be mounted on the board either! I need me some good 18AWG solid copper wire... Always thinking. can't sleep for thinking of sweet capacitors roasting..

[domesda2b]

I have an idea mount the capacitors on the old coil with shrink tape and mount the new inductor on the wall in the next room. Now you're cooking with FIRE!

[domesda2b]

I do not think it's a good idea for any part of the conductor of an inductor should touch anything or rub against another conductor for safety reasons folks.

[domesda2b]

Isolate Isolate Isolate and insulate invest in some heat shrink tubing sound advice good night. Should wear safety goggles when soldering or frying bacon too!

[F1nut]

Don't forget your tin foil hat.

[domesda2b]

Don't forget your tin foil hat.

I only use that to shield me from bad tweeters and it should be rubberized. Usually I solder naked with a ground strap LoL:rolleyes:

[NotaSuv]

Domes thanks for the great coffee thru the nose laugh today.............just who were you talkin to last night :)

good luck in your upgrade....and if all else fails talk to CL and cap it

[domesda2b]

Yeah, talking with anyone that could help. Thanks Appreciate. I was cramming electronic parts in my basket and didn't want to forget the musical solder... Brain was going a million miles per hour last night. Can't wait to solder and put it all back together. Took longer to do the research than it will to solder and put back together..

[NotaSuv]

Yeah, talking with anyone that could help. Thanks Appreciate. I was cramming electronic parts in my basket and didn't want to forget the musical solder... Brain was going a million miles per hour last night. Can't wait to solder and put it all back together. Took longer to do the research than it will to solder and put back together..

LOL:D

[domesda2b]

Is the polarity opposite between the left and right crossover inductors? The polarity on the tweeter inductor is opposite. The "P" terminal is hooked up to the START of the inner core winding on the left and looking at the "P" terminal on the PCB on right is hooked to the outer winding of crossover inductor coil wire. Does polarity matter on inductor coils?
Thanks

[domesda2b]

Must not matter b/c there is no left right crossover schematic and both the R and P solder terminal wires are both black! Just in theory I'm not an expert or anything but trying to think how it would effect the magnetic field.

Wake up all my parts for the upgrades will be here in a few days! everything is prepped. made a custom sub-frame so I can get rid of the other paper weight inductor coil and move the PCB to a horizontal more stable mount. More room for 40uF cap too! Hopefully I'll have this project done in two more days!

[NotaSuv]

just skip sleep all together and git in done in a day

[domesda2b]

Would if I could. Sleep is over rated... So DC polarity doesn't matter if It was AC it would be an electromagnet...

[ShinAce]

Must not matter b/c there is no left right crossover schematic and both the R and P solder terminal wires are both black! Just in theory I'm not an expert or anything but trying to think how it would effect the magnetic field.


Stop skipping on sleep.

Coils don't have polarity. Polarity only applies to DC current for coils.

[zingo]

Domesda2b, if you want I can start you your own thread. The running commentary and posting seven times in a row thing annoys me. Good luck with your project.

[domesda2b]

Breaking in caps tomorrow good luck. Far as your comment, I got a little wild cramming knowledge for this project. Wasn't always me talking here. Just trying to get some answers. Not like anyone else was burning up the board. special thanks to all my new buddies and help. You know who you're. I'll try and post some pics. Heck I've been busy and haven't really posted that much after I got the answers from members helping. whatever it takes to get the job done. If I annoyed anyone I'm sorry. tell you what if my project does work out I doubt I'll be here much. I'll be playing music and singing!

[ben62670]

Breaking in caps tomorrow good luck. Far as your comment, I got a little wild cramming knowledge for this project. Wasn't always me talking here. Just trying to get some answers. Not like anyone else was burning up the board. special thanks to all my new buddies and help. You know who you're. I'll try and post some pics. Heck I've been busy and haven't really posted that much after I got the answers from members helping. whatever it takes to get the job done. If I annoyed anyone I'm sorry. tell you what if my project does work out I doubt I'll be here much. I'll be playing music and singing!

You have to play with cables next:D Sources, amps, and room treatments!
Stick around awhile.
Ben

[tonyb]

Breaking in caps tomorrow good luck. Far as your comment, I got a little wild cramming knowledge for this project. Wasn't always me talking here. Just trying to get some answers. Not like anyone else was burning up the board. special thanks to all my new buddies and help. You know who you're. I'll try and post some pics. Heck I've been busy and haven't really posted that much after I got the answers from members helping. whatever it takes to get the job done. If I annoyed anyone I'm sorry. tell you what if my project does work out I doubt I'll be here much. I'll be playing music and singing!

Please,hold off on the singing part.
See what you have fostered Ben??

Good luck on your project.

[domesda2b]

He has created a cap dome monster...

[domesda2b]

Another friggen scientist:rolleyes:
Please take your head out of your ass. I swear you can hear so much better that way. I don't need charts to tell me what sounds better.

AHAHAHAHA! Silk domes:)

[SKsolutions]

You might see if Parts Express has any decaf.

[domesda2b]

No real drugs I'm already on decaff. are you?

[Deadof_knight]

You can roast a cap too get it real hot and then throw the juice to it and whatch it mealt away !!!!!


Like the wicked witch of the west IM MELTING!!!

[domesda2b]

Yeah juice... Ran the caps with juice then reached in there and felt with my hand, they weren't even warm:)