Recommend Your Automotive Tips (non-audio related)

[candyliquor35m]

1. Change your automatic transmission fluid at least every 20k miles. The fluid is just high-detergent 10w oil that gets dirty and the detergents wear out/break down with time.

2. Use your car's a/c at least once a week. Everytime you drive is even better. Even in the winter when you have the temperature setting to hot, leave the a/c button pushed in/on. Folks with automatic climate control will have to figure out how to do this on your own. Using the a/c keeps the o-rings in the hoses and the seals in the compressor lubricated. When the seals and o-rings become dry from non-use, your chance of the freon leaking out increases.

[sda2mike]

1. drive it

2. if it's hot out, open the windows even a crack, if possible

3. chk tire pressure monthly

4. change yer friggin oil!

5. don't be afraid to 'get on it'. see #1

6. if it's broke - fix it!

7. be consistent with your maintenence

8. tint your glass - at least in FL;)

9. keep it clean - in & out

10. get some action in there! you only live once!:D

[BaggedLancer]

1. Drive it like you stole it.

[nspindel]

Lease it, so by the time the problems start you don't own it any more.

Oh - also avoid hitting the car in front of you.:D

[John in MA]

Keep the AC evap drains clear

A funny noise isn't just a noise--fix it

Rubber suspension bushings are a wear item

Hose off the undercarriage on warm days in the winter

Check your U-joints regularly for lash

Fuel pump motors are a lot cheaper than entire assemblies

Don't forget your differentials and transfer case have fluid in them, too

Your ricer neighbor's lowered import car is not a flex ramp :D

[heiney9]

1. Change your automatic transmission fluid at least every 20k miles. The fluid is just high-detergent 10w oil that gets dirty and the detergents wear out/break down with time.

2. Use your car's a/c at least once a week. Everytime you drive is even better. Even in the winter when you have the temperature setting to hot, leave the a/c button pushed in/on. Folks with automatic climate control will have to figure out how to do this on your own. Using the a/c keeps the o-rings in the hoses and the seals in the compressor lubricated. When the seals and o-rings become dry from non-use, your chance of the freon leaking out increases.

#1 is good and goes for all fluids. Brake fluid absorbs water over time so that should be changed every 2 years or so. Sooner if you put a lot of miles on. Not all cars use 10W tranny fluid. I use Redline Synthetic.

#2 is a bit of myth IMO, but it certainly can't hurt.

Tire pressure is important; cleaning out rain tray drains periodically keeps water from backing up into the interior of the car. I use a Cold Air Intake with a cleanable air filter. It gets cleaned and re-oiled every Spring.

Plugs and plug wires should be checked and changed as nec.

Pay attention to Check engine Lights and on board diagnostics

[SlowcarIX]

if you drive a turbocharged car and has access to boost control, fuel and timing table - do water/methanol injection. Blue set of lines - stock car with 21lbs boost, Red set of lines - 32lbs boost

the result of water methanol injection on my 06 mitsubishi evolution ix

http://www.putfile.com/pic/4564538

[hydrostream]

Spring is here don't foget to change the air in your tires from winter
air to summer air.
Makes the car handle better.
jerry

[candyliquor35m]

Spring is here don't foget to change the air in your tires from winter
air to summer air.
Makes the car handle better.
jerry

I saw on the news where a lot of ppl are using hydrogen because it's not supposed to leak as bad over time and the stations selling the hydrogen are charging big bucks like $30 a car or something like that.

[SlowcarIX]

its nitrogen

[polrbehr]

I saw on the news where a lot of ppl are using hydrogen because it's not supposed to leak as bad over time and the stations selling the hydrogen are charging big bucks like $30 a car or something like that.

I think you mean nitrogen??

Hydrogen could result in a sort of "Hindenburg Effect" ;), don't think I'd want that in my tires.

[candyliquor35m]

I think you mean nitrogen??

Hydrogen could result in a sort of "Hindenburg Effect" ;), don't think I'd want that in my tires.

Thanks. I wasn't sure it was hydrogen but I went with it :)

[NotaSuv]

i will sell anyone some "magic pellets" I use to increase gas mileage....also have some custom made free gas hoses, using small pumps..just pull up next to the gas tank..pop the cap..insert hose..turn on pump...dumps right into the tank....drive away...

[MillerLiteScott]

Rotate you hub caps.

[wizzy]

Don't fall for the sucker line of changing your oil every 3k unless you truly do make lots of very short trips or other heavy duty work. See manual for specifics.

Follow the manufacturers recommendation. Usually every 6k/7.5k or six months -- whatever the manual recommends.

If you want to waste money, change your oil every 5k. If you want to be a Jiffy Lube Sucker, do it every 3k.

[ben62670]

Before I moved down here I used to not change my oil for about 6-8k. I would just check it regularly for cleanliness, and viscosity. Down here in the heat I have to change it at least every 4k. Up north I would just change it right before it started heating up(early summer). Once a year was fine.

[Sherardp]

get an alarm, put a system in it, Throw some DUBS on that beotch.

[nms]

The only thing I'll add: wind it out occasionally close to redline. Modern cars will not let you over-rev the engine, so don't worry about exceeding redline. If your car is old, this might not be a good idea... :)

[BaggedLancer]

get an alarm, put a system in it, Throw some DUBS on that beotch.

Then drive it like you stole it?

[dorokusai]

Don't fall for the sucker line of changing your oil every 3k unless you truly do make lots of very short trips or other heavy duty work. See manual for specifics.

Follow the manufacturers recommendation. Usually every 6k/7.5k or six months -- whatever the manual recommends.

If you want to waste money, change your oil every 5k. If you want to be a Jiffy Lube Sucker, do it every 3k.

That's the rotation I'm on and have been for some time. If I had something exotic, it might be different but that would be moreso a labor of love than a neccesity.

I'm a tire pressure and a factory maintenance nerd. I like to follow the schedules to the mile since the days of me owning a vehicle without a warranty are long gone for now. I do notice the sting of that with my Chevy as opposed to the Audi since I have to actually pay for it. It hasn't been too bad.

Anyone else like BG products?

[anonymouse]

So I need to change the plugs on my car. The dealer recommends changing the wire and PCV. Are these wear items?

[heiney9]

That's the rotation I'm on and have been for some time. If I had something exotic, it might be different but that would be moreso a labor of love than a neccesity.

I'm a tire pressure and a factory maintenance nerd. I like to follow the schedules to the mile since the days of me owning a vehicle without a warranty are long gone for now. I do notice the sting of that with my Chevy as opposed to the Audi since I have to actually pay for it. It hasn't been too bad.

Anyone else like BG products?

I am too. I constantly check tire pressure and do proper rotation as well as regular interval oil changes. I use Mobil 1 synth for oil and still change it religiously at 5K using the factory VW oil filter. I run separate snow tires in the winter (Blizzaks) and separate summer tires since I have both stock rims and aftermarket rims. It really makes a difference with the winters here in the Midwest (especially this year)

Proper maintenance goes hand in hand with automobile ownership. I don't drive a lot of miles a year so I can usually get by with maintenance, other than oil changes, about every 2-3 years.

Washing and waxing makes a huge difference as well.

H9

[heiney9]

So I need to change the plugs on my car. The dealer recommends changing the wire and PCV. Are these wear items?

Depends. Plug wires will wear out but sometimes you can see visually sometimes not. I use very expensive Magnecor wires and I've had those for 6 years. I've heard horror stories of people getting the $49.95 specials at the local discount auto store and them either not working out of the box or needing to be replaced in about a year.

Buy quality parts if your not using dealer parts. It makes a difference in the long run.

The PCV does have a certain life span and in most cars is a regular maintenance item.

H9

[Face]

Anytime I change plugs I change wires, especially with GM wires.

If they're molested after having a few hundred heat cycles, they usually will start to misfire if reused.

As for PCV's, I change them once a year. A clogged PCV valve can cause poor fuel economy and other problems. Since they're usually cheap and easy to change, it's good preventive maintenance to change them once a year.

[candyliquor35m]

Since I deal in used cars, I'd prefer you change your oil every 3k :D

A lot of the other things on a car you can wait until they fail (except belts and hoses) but engine oil I don't recommend pushing the limits.

The potential payoff/savings is much greater than the extra cost ($100 a year).

[heiney9]

Since I deal in used cars, I'd prefer you change your oil every 3k :D

A lot of the other things on a car you can wait until they fail (except belts and hoses) but engine oil I don't recommend pushing the limits.

The potential payoff/savings is much greater than the extra cost ($100 a year).


I recommend for those that are truely interested in oil, engine wear and change intervals to spend a small amount of money and have your oil analyzed.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Not a gimmick or a scam. I admittedly haven't done it yet but I'm going to this Spring when I change my oil. I know a lot of guys that have sent in samples to be analyzed and it's amazing what they can tell you about your engine with just the basic analysis. They can also tell you how much life your oil actually had left and you can use that as guide for your next oil change.

Now there's your scientific evidence your always squawking about Carl. Just to do it because has never been enough for you in the past.

Go to the Blackstone site and you can learn something about proper oil maintenance based on scientific analysis rather than the standard adopted every 3K miles.

H9

[heiney9]

Another thing to consider is almost all cases the oil filter wears out long before the properties of the oil. The filter fails to do it's job properly long before the limits of the oil are reached, especially when using synthetic oil.

H9

[candyliquor35m]

I recommend

Sounds good. The problem with going with the maximum which is what the owner manuals say is that we all get busy and sometimes 6-7.5k turns into 10-15k intervals. I'd much prefer to see a target of 3k which sometimes turns into 5k in which case is a pretty safe range.

Growing up I changed my 66 chev every 2k. I still have it and haven't done a thing to the engine. The compression on all the cylinders are all over 200 psi.

[heiney9]

Sounds good. The problem with going with the maximum which is what the owner manuals say is that we all get busy and sometimes 6-7.5k turns into 10-15k intervals. I'd much prefer to see a target of 3k which sometimes turns into 5k in which case is a pretty safe range.

Growing up I changed my 66 chev every 2k. I still have it and haven't done a thing to the engine. The compression on all the cylinders are all over 200 psi.

I agree if one is going to extend it to 10-15K then they really should be sure (by analysis) that the oil is still performing within it's limits for their particular situation. Again when your out to 15K for an oil change I'd be concerned the filter is failing to do it's job properly.

When I ran dino oil I changed every 3-5K. Now with synth I extend it to 5-7.5K. I only put about 9K a year on my car so I change the oil about once in a calendar year. If the Blackstone analysis recommends I can go longer for my situation and my engine then I will.

H9

[candyliquor35m]

And I spend the extra couple dollars and buy the bosch oil filter which claims to filter out smaller particles. I know autozone carries it. If I buy my own oil and filter, the going rate around here is $10 for a oil change.

I've been using synthetic in the 97 pathfinder with 160k on it but I'm thinking about switching to regular castrol since a nissan engine is virtually indestructable. The 95 range rover has 150k on it and uses about a quart of oil in 3k.

[sucks2beme]

Don't fall for the sucker line of changing your oil every 3k unless you truly do make lots of very short trips or other heavy duty work. See manual for specifics.

Follow the manufacturers recommendation. Usually every 6k/7.5k or six months -- whatever the manual recommends.

If you want to waste money, change your oil every 5k. If you want to be a Jiffy Lube Sucker, do it every 3k.


I change it at about 4k or 3 months. Here in Dallas, heat kills everything.
Bumper to bumper driving is a lot harder milage than open road.
Better too often than not enough. I do it myself. While I'm at it, I look over
everything else. That's the real benefit. See stuff before it breaks.
I've been known to go longer, but anymore I prefer to go with what works
for me, which is changing oil on the season change.

[tonyb]

How about some automotive "driving" tips.....here's a few...
Use turn signals
when turning left,don't go a little to the right first
If you drive 55,stay the hell out of the left lane

[toddco]

One think most dont know is all engines have a oil filter bypass valve. So when your filter get dirty and creates sertin presher, this valve opens and pumps your dirt oil from the pan strait back in to the engine. Your oil may not be degraded, however it does get dirty from carbon espouser and what not ,this in unavaidable. The filter can only filter so much before it plugs up.:eek:

[wizzy]

I change it at about 4k or 3 months. Here in Dallas, heat kills everything.

I always thought this was a myth ... with the exception of the paint job and interior.

Engine/tranny/etc parts are meant to run at much higher temps than any ambient temp anywhere in the world. I thought that cold weather (northern regions) was far far harder on a car than hot climates. Actually, I figured a southern climate with mild winters and warm summers is actually the best environment for the average car assuming your car is well built and the cooling system functions (i.e doesn't overheat when it's 110 outside)

Even short trips, it means the oil gets to temperature faster and more readily burns off condensation. ANy car built for the US market will have had summer high temps taken into account when designing, say, a transmission when calculating amount of fluid necessary to effectively not "burn up" on a hot day in Texas.

But, I'm not a mechanic ... or a mechanical engineer, so I admit I could be without a clue on this one.

[sucks2beme]

I always thought this was a myth ... with the exception of the paint job and interior.

Engine/tranny/etc parts are meant to run at much higher temps than any ambient temp anywhere in the world. I thought that cold weather (northern regions) was far far harder on a car than hot climates. Actually, I figured a southern climate with mild winters and warm summers is actually the best environment for the average car assuming your car is well built and the cooling system functions (i.e doesn't overheat when it's 110 outside)

Even short trips, it means the oil gets to temperature faster and more readily burns off condensation. ANy car built for the US market will have had summer high temps taken into account when designing, say, a transmission when calculating amount of fluid necessary to effectively not "burn up" on a hot day in Texas.

But, I'm not a mechanic ... or a mechanical engineer, so I admit I could be without a clue on this one.


Heat kills stuff. An over 100 degree day in bumper to bumper means
there isn't much airflow. The engine and tranny get hot. The radiator
has trouble doing it's job cooling the engine and tranny. Fluids like ATF and
oil break down. There was a 114 degree day a couple of years ago, and
the next morning my battery was dead. I went down to the parts place
to cash in on the warranty. He said "just put it over there next to the others."
He had a wall of dead batteries.
Warm summers? Try a 100 days of over 100, and tell me that isn't hard on cars. I change all fluids on a regular basis.
And I go through brake pads like crazy.

[wizzy]

And I go through brake pads like crazy.

What kind of car do you have? I used to burn up brake pads too until I started buying the replacements from Toyota. Everyone on the Toyota mailing list said the same thing, buy Toyota pads they work way better than anything you get aftermarket ... sure enough, they were absolutely right.

[wizzy]

Heat kills stuff. An over 100 degree day in bumper to bumper means
there isn't much airflow. The engine and tranny get hot. The radiator
has trouble doing it's job cooling the engine and tranny. Fluids like ATF and
oil break down. There was a 114 degree day a couple of years ago, and
the next morning my battery was dead. I went down to the parts place
to cash in on the warranty. He said "just put it over there next to the others."
He had a wall of dead batteries.
Warm summers? Try a 100 days of over 100, and tell me that isn't hard on cars. I change all fluids on a regular basis.
And I go through brake pads like crazy.

Well yeah, batteries are the one exception. Cold weather is actually far better for car batteries than hot weather.

Other than that, your car should be designed to easily handle the climate and conditions in which it is sold.

[ESavinon]

And I spend the extra couple dollars and buy the bosch oil filter which claims to filter out smaller particles. I know autozone carries it. If I buy my own oil and filter, the going rate around here is $10 for a oil change.

I've been using synthetic in the 97 pathfinder with 160k on it but I'm thinking about switching to regular castrol since a nissan engine is virtually indestructable. The 95 range rover has 150k on it and uses about a quart of oil in 3k.


Wix makes the best oil filter.
Mobil 1 oil filter is a rebadged wix filter that cost a couple of dollars more.

[Face]

Wix makes the best oil filter.
Mobil 1 oil filter is a rebadged wix filter that cost a couple of dollars more.
Correct. I've been using Wix for years.

[heiney9]

Wix makes the best oil filter.

For what??? I use Mahle or Mann filters for my GTi VR6 and those are the best for my application since they are OEM suppliers and are made to VW spec.

There is no best anything for every application.

H9

[sucks2beme]

Heat is murder on automatic transmissions.
It would rather work room temp than hot.
It's a Ford F150. That's a lot of iron to stop.
I get the lifetime warranty pads. They must
hate to see me coming back over and over.

[wizzy]

Heat is murder on automatic transmissions.
It would rather work room temp than hot.
It's a Ford F150. That's a lot of iron to stop.
I get the lifetime warranty pads. They must
hate to see me coming back over and over.

Do they put them on for free, so when you come back the total is $0.00 for you?

[SBrown712]

Don't forget to change the halogen gas in your headlights.

[Face]

Don't forget to change the halogen gas in your headlights.
Don't forget to have the blinker fluid and bucket of steam ready too.

[sucks2beme]

Do they put them on for free, so when you come back the total is $0.00 for you?

No. I do my own. The parts are lifetime.

[jeremie]

I change my oil every 7-8k in my vehicles, my mazda protege 5 has 137k with no issues and changed transmission fluid at 75k on it. My Pilot recommends 6-8k on oil and my Murano says 6-7k. I dont buy into the whole 3k oil changes.