Jstas....and others..

[VR3]

I was looking at my antifreeze the other day -- it is kind of dirty looking...

So I want to flush my radiator and put in the new stuff...

I went on Advances website to their "know how to do it page"

And they mention putting a cleaner/water mixture in the radiator to clean it, let it run - then drain it again and put the antifreeze back in.

With this in mind, I want to know how to drain a 2004 F150 radiator... if its possible. I read about there being a "plug" you can pull to drain it, but I like to know more about the actual part before I start pulling anything.

Thanks

[RuSsMaN]

Should be a plug, as you said, on the bottom inside of the radiator. Assuming the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap, remove the plug, drain. Flush and fill as desired. It's as easy as changing oil.

[Face]

I'm not familiar with Ford, but on GM vehicles, the plug isn't removed. The plug, actually called a draincock, is turned, allowing the fluid to drain from the bottom of the radiator. After you refill the tank, you're going to have to bleed it for air.

If I were you, I would do some more research or have a shop do it.

[Jstas]

Well, I've never heard it called a draincock. I think the correct term is petcock. But yes, it should have one of those. They operate a little funny. If you tighten the wingnut all the way down, that is all the way open. If you loosen it all the up, that is all the way closed.

As far as running a detergent of some sort through, never really heard of that unless it is hooked up to one of those recycler machines that the dealerships have. I personally don't care for them because the coolant breaks down chemically over time and the recyclers cannot restore the fluid. I would drain it and fill it with new stuff. Make sure you recycle the old coolant.

Personally though, I've never run a detergent through. I just flush the system with clean water. It can even be from a hose. That's easy enough to do. But the problem is that if you are going to do a full cooling system flush, you can't just run the radiator dry and such. It's a little more involved. If you have a manual that tells you how to do it, read up on it because it's really not as simple as draining and refilling the radiator.

If you are going to replace all the coolant though, go to the store and get yourself distiller water. If your cooling system takes 12 gallons of coolant, get 6 gallons of the coolant you need, not pre-mixed stuff either. Then get 6 gallons of distilled water. Distilled water lacks minerals and such. The problem with minerals in the water is that they can turn your cooling system into a battery. If you have an iron block and aluminum intake and heads, it essentially makes the aluminum the sacrificial metal in the battery and it will rot much, much faster. In fact, alot of Chevy guys have filler neck problems because of the cooling system acting like a battery and rotting out the welds and causing leaks. If you use distilled water, you will reduce that problem.

I also like to add Redline's Water Wetter. It is a surface tension reducer and it improved the efficiency of your coolant be reducing surface tension. It gives the water the ability to contact more of the surface of the cooling passages through out the cooling system. If you increase the surface area being contacted, more of the coolant get draw away more of the heat and that's a good thing. It aids in heat transfer. I use it in my cooling system and my intercooler and I've seen as much as a 10 degree drop, especially on really hot days.

[MacLeod]

Just for the record, Id like to second the Water Wetter recommendation.

I had a Suzuki Samurai for several years which is a great test bench since it only has 66 horsepower so you notice every little increase. Because it was so weak, you had to basically ride with the gas on the floor when driving the interstate which naturally cause it to run pretty hot. I used the Water Wetter and it reduced the temp by a good bit. Switching to Mobil 1 dropped it even further.

[VR3]

I am going to take it to the dealer, only because I want to get alot of stuff looked over and done if nessicary.

Here is the list I have compiled I wanted done...

1) Spark plugs and wires
2) transmission fluid changed (full change, not just a pan drop)
3) radiator/coolant system drained
4) fuel filter
5) timing belt changed/inspected
6) Brakes inspected

I want to get all of this looked at first obviously to make sure it needs to be done, but I want to get on a regular maintence schedule with my truck.

The dealership quoted me 600 bucks for all of that -- which sounded reasonable. Then I called a local shop and they quoted me alot less. So I will probally call them back Monday to get an actual quote from them.

Just curious if there is anything else I should add to the list.

Thanks

For those of you curious why I want all that done. My truck has 113,000 miles on it and want to make sure its up to speed for the next leg. And I want to start doing some of this stuff on a regular basis.

[MacLeod]

I would stick with the dealer dude. I know local shops can be good and a lot cheaper, but dealers generally have better trained and better paid techs working there and think of it this way - at the local shop, you might have the first Ford truck that guy has seen in 6 months. At the dealership, you might be the 6th truck he's worked on that week. Having techs that are familiar inside and out with your ride goes a long way to ensure a job well done.

[eloplayspolo]

i think 80,000 miles its recommended to replace all houses... have u done that? may be something u want to look into..... and im going to say this.... jstas... ur post impressed me... a lot. lol woah

[Serendipity]

Trey,

600 bucks sounds VERY reasonable for a job like that, we get a tune-up every 30,000 miles and it consists of what you mentioned above plus the in-cabin microfilter, alignment, and a few other small things...and the dealer charges WAY more than 600 bucks.

[danger boy]

I had a Suzuki Samurai for several years which is a great test bench since it only has 66 horsepower :eek: :confused: :confused: :eek: 66 horsepower :eek:

[amulford]

I am going to take it to the dealer, only because I want to get alot of stuff looked over and done if nessicary.

Here is the list I have compiled I wanted done...

1) Spark plugs and wires
2) transmission fluid changed (full change, not just a pan drop)
3) radiator/coolant system drained
4) fuel filter
5) timing belt changed/inspected
6) Brakes inspected

I want to get all of this looked at first obviously to make sure it needs to be done, but I want to get on a regular maintence schedule with my truck.

The dealership quoted me 600 bucks for all of that -- which sounded reasonable. Then I called a local shop and they quoted me alot less. So I will probally call them back Monday to get an actual quote from them.

Just curious if there is anything else I should add to the list.

Thanks

For those of you curious why I want all that done. My truck has 113,000 miles on it and want to make sure its up to speed for the next leg. And I want to start doing some of this stuff on a regular basis.


That's a good price to do all of that. Go for it. You should get on a maintenance regimen, your truck will last you a long time.

I would add the PCV and air filters. Have them inspect the hoses, too. Not just the cooling, but the vacuum lines.

[Deadof_knight]

Hope you wallet is fat if you have all that done at the dealer at once...... timming belts change can run 300- 400 and higher on some models. You have to do it . I do 90 percent of all my work to date Allthough Im not touching our mazda 6 08 model. Ive done al the major fluid changes on my dodge ram 1500. Nice and roomy to work on though.

That many mile the truck probably needs new brakes not inspected though. 600 for all that is too bad in the scope things but paying for a brake inspection is like throwing money away too me Take front tire off and look at the inside pad ..... its that easy ...especially on a truck

[McLoki]

Trey - is your truck a 4x4? We purchased an 01 tahoe LT 4x4 last summer with 112,000 miles on it. (yes, it is still running great..) anyway - this is what I have had done to it to date....

originally - inspected by dealer (output shaft seal was replaced, made aware of brake replacement need that I will perform myself, made aware of belt replacement needed that will be done Monday)

Since:

Oil changes (of course)
air filter replaced
cabin air filter replaced (don't think original owner knew there was one - cuz it was clogged full - usually replace when engine air filter is replaced)
Transfer case fluid replaced (this was apparently never done by original owner either - glad I did it)
Brake fluid replaced (done at a local shop - like to replace every 5 years or so)
Power steering fluid replaced (lubes the power steering pump - like to replace every 3 years or so)
front and rear differential fluid replaced with synthetic - supposed to replace every 60k in the tahoe - don't know if it has ever been done or not before my doing it.
Coolant replaced. (letting local shop do it for me - way messy to try and do in my driveway)
Transmisison fluid was replaced about 30k miles ago (based on service records that I got from the dealer) Will check and see how often it is supposed to be replaced and will do when neccesary.
Having a local shop inspect\replace the drive belts (in for service now)


All I have left is needs tires and brakes later this year. (if I missed anything please point it out) Anyway - standard maint. is WAY cheaper than a payment for a new truck. Local service or dealer, stay up on the maint. and you will be in good shape for the long haul....

Michael

[McLoki]

Also just to make sure you were aware of it the my ford site (https://myford.fordvehicles.com) is really nice and well worth signing up for.

You put in your vehicle vin and all work you have had done since you owned the vehicle (no past history unfortunately) at a local dealer is automatically entered. (plus you can add your own maint history items) It makes it much easier to stay on top of maint. items.

Also there are online owners manuals, ford recommended service intervals (as opposed to dealer recommended), mileage trackers, and what service should have been performed at your last service time and what to expect at the next one.

Give it a shot if you have not yet.

Michael

[VR3]

1) Cabin air filter
2) Transfer case fluid
3) Brake fluid replaced
4) Power steering fluid replaced
5) Front and rear differential fluid replaced
6) Spark plugs and wires
7) Transmission fluid changed (full change, not just a pan drop)
8) Radiator/coolant system drained
9) Fuel filter
10) Timing belt changed/inspected
11) Brakes inspected
12) PCV Valve
13) Cooling and Vaccume Hoses - Replace
14) Inspect CV Joints

The dealer said it was only around 150 bucks to change the belt on my truck. So thats cool.

This is the list I have compiled for the dealer to do.

[McLoki]

cabin air filter is only if your vehicle has one (not all do). May be much cheaper to replace yourself.

transfer casw fluid and front diff fluid are only if you have a 4x4.

other than that looks pretty comprehensive. May be worth an inspection while they are in there to check trans seals, brakes, etc.

Michael

[VR3]

Yeah mine is 4x4 - so definitely something to get done.

[Serendipity]

So thats $600 + $150?

Still a great deal, since the dealership here charges around $780 for the same job and that's not even a 4X4 (no transfer case fluid, rear diff fluid, propeller shaft, etc.)

[Serendipity]

Trey,

A friend of mine told me that it may be risky to get the transmission fluid changed fully (that is, a full flush) on a high mileage transmission.

Although I'm not sure if this is correct, I think it's because the flush may cause particles to move around and clog other parts of the transmission? Well, at least that's what I understood.

He said its better to do just a drain/fill a few times, if everything works out fine then do the full flush a while later.

I may be wrong though?? Can someone correct me if I'm wrong...

[MikeC78]

Just a thought...

You could always replace the belt yourself, and probably save about $120. Go to Advance and get a Goodyear "Gatorback" belt, they will run about $30. Check to see If there is a belt diagram, or draw the belt diagram down(you can always google it). Release the belt tension pulley and pull the old belt off, follow the diagram and apply the belt to the tension pulley last. Pretty simple to change, can be done in about 15 minutes tops... depending on how mechanically inclined you are.;)

[VR3]

Im pretty mechanically inclined --

But there are some things I refuse to do... simply because this is a very nice vehicle... and I plan to drive it a while as long as gas dosnt go to like 8 dollars a gallon lol...

I change my oil, air filter, keep my fluids topped and keep an eye on levels...

Im very strict on oil changes, every 3,000 miles within 20 miles - air filter at 10,000

Other than that... ya know! lol

[Serendipity]

Have you considered using synthetic oil? Supposedly its better for your engine.

But yeah, about that tranny fluid change...

[VR3]

Just wanted to report back --

I took it to the dealer

Out of my list --

) Cabin air filter - Truck dosnt have it
2) Transfer case fluid - Replaced
3) Brake fluid replaced - Inspected
4) Power steering fluid replaced - Replaced
5) Front and rear differential fluid replaced - Replaced
6) Spark plugs and wires - SP were replaced, wires are not replaced on my truck because it uses coil packs
7) Transmission fluid changed - Pan drop
8) Radiator/coolant system drained - Replaced
9) Fuel filter - Replaced
10) Timing belt changed/inspected - Truck uses a timing chain, no need
11) Brakes inspected - Inspected
12) PCV Valve - replaced
13) Cooling and Vaccume Hoses - Inspected
14) Inspect CV Joints - Inspected

For all of that, and prompt service, and what looks to be a solid job -- 880 bucks. I am happy.

[Serendipity]

That's a very good deal...considering that your truck is a 4X4 - more work involved, more fluids, etc.

Do you have to replace the coil packs? I thought they had to be replaced too...

[VR3]

110 bucks a coil pack... so no hurry to replace 8 of those ;)

[Serendipity]

Uhm, we had one coil pack fail right at 60,000 miles...

I thought they had to be replaced as part of maintenance???

[Face]

Coil packs are only replaced when they go bad. I've had coil packs last over 150,000 miles.

[VR3]

Question for the experts...

If my truck did ok with just a pan drop - does that mean its ok next time (30,000 miles) for a complete cycle?

[Serendipity]

I'm no expert, but I'd think you would be okay. I'd also ask the dealer though, see what they say. From what I've heard though, on a high-mileage transmission, flushing the fluid might cause particles to come off certain spots and clog other places that are crucial to normal operation. But if you just did a pan drop and there are no problems, I'd think a full flush would be okay.

Can Jstas or someone else chime in here?

P.S. we did the full flush at 33,000 miles but this time around (66,000 miles) only a pan drop. This time the mechanic chose to just do a pan drop...

[Jstas]

Question for the experts...

If my truck did ok with just a pan drop - does that mean its ok next time (30,000 miles) for a complete cycle?

Pan drop? I'm not sure what you are asking.

[MikeC78]

Pan drop... as in just doing a pan drop of the transmission to drain the fluid. I would personally just keep doing the pan drops between 20-30k miles, also changing the filter. As long as you keep up with the basic pan drop on a tranny/filter, I believe there is no need for a complete flush.

[Serendipity]

Pan drop... as in just doing a pan drop of the transmission to drain the fluid. I would personally just keep doing the pan drops between 20-30k miles, also changing the filter. As long as you keep up with the basic pan drop on a tranny/filter, I believe there is no need for a complete flush.

I am doing this myself tomorrow.

Any precautions/warnings before I tackle this? I did notice that some of the bolts on the transmission pan are somewhat rusted, so would that be a problem? I don't want to be loosening bolts and find that I can't get them all off...

Also looking to do the coolant change (manual states every 30,000 miles). Any suggestions besides adding Water Wetter? I already understand that I need to bleed the coolant for air.

Thanks!!

[Jstas]

I am doing this myself tomorrow.

Any precautions/warnings before I tackle this? I did notice that some of the bolts on the transmission pan are somewhat rusted, so would that be a problem? I don't want to be loosening bolts and find that I can't get them all off...

Also looking to do the coolant change (manual states every 30,000 miles). Any suggestions besides adding Water Wetter? I already understand that I need to bleed the coolant for air.

Thanks!!

If the bolts are rusted, get yourself a can of penetrating oil. WD-40 works ok but stuff like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench are made specifically for the purposed and work better IMO. Saturate the rusted bolts with the stuff and let it sit for a while. If I have something I am fearful of breaking, I soak it, let it sit for 15 minutes then soak it again and let it sit for another 15 minutes and just before I am ready to go I soak it again. The penetrating oil is essentially a light machine oil with some solvents mixed in. It gets down in to place between threads and rust and lubricates the movement so you don't overstress the bolt head and break it off at the shoulder.

If you get the filter, it should have a gasket in it. Some foreign cars don't have gaskets but you also don't have to drop the pan on some of them either. The neck will likely have an O ring on it. If one doesn't come off, it's stuck in there. You can dig it out gently with a screw driver. If you don't get the old O ring and all of the old gasket off, it will leak.

Go to a Pep Boys or something and grab yourself a gasket scraper from Lisle. It's my favorite one. Uses straight edge razor blades and I haven't had it fail me yet. Best part is, if you break the blade, get a new one. Check both the pan lip and the transmission housing. If you are having a tough time getting some off the gasket material off (rubberized paper or felt can be a bitch), soak it with the penetrating oil. I can't stress enough that you need to get all the gasket off otherwise the new one will not seal correctly and it will leak. Transmissions use very high pressures and the fluid is not only a lubricant but a friction modifier and a coolant for the transmission. A leaky trans over-heats quickly even if it doesn't seem so and it shortens life drastically.

As far as the coolant goes, Water Wetter is not really necessary but it can be beneficial. If you are going to flush, follow the directions. You are going to need to let the car warm up and open the thermostat before you can burp it and get the air out. But other than that, it's pretty straight forward and it does make a mess so get yourself a very big drain pan. The best way to drain the whole system is to pull the lower radiator hose. That's usually the lowest spot in the system and it will drain all the coolant from everywhere except maybe the heater core. But a coolant drain, unless it is REALLY funky, isn't always that necessary.

[Serendipity]

Okay, thanks. I am going to get the parts now.

What I have planned to do so far:
1. Transmission fluid change (just a pan drop)
2. Drain/fill coolant
3. Oil change and oil filter
4. Clean K&N Air Filter
5. Check Battery fluid levels
6. Check brake fluid / power steering fluid
7. Check CV joints

I will try to get this all done in a day... the weather is nice and I don't mind spending a few hours doing this.

[Serendipity]

So - I tried to do most of the tuneup today but it got dark so I'll finish it up tomorrow.

What I've done so far:
1. Changed oil and oil filter
2. Cleaned K&N Air Filter
3. Top off brake fluid (just needed a little)
4. Added power steering fluid (again, just needed a little)
5. In-Cabin Microfilter
6. Check battery fluid (needed a little)
7. Check CV joints
8. Added Coolant

The next thing I have to do is the transmission fluid change. However, as I suspected, the bolts were rusted quite badly and I didn't want to mess up anything. So would it be easier to just use the drain plug/bolt? I believe there is one but I don't have the tool to loosen it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[only126db]

Just wanted to report back --

I took it to the dealer

Out of my list --

) Cabin air filter - Truck dosnt have it
2) Transfer case fluid - Replaced
3) Brake fluid replaced - Inspected
4) Power steering fluid replaced - Replaced
5) Front and rear differential fluid replaced - Replaced
6) Spark plugs and wires - SP were replaced, wires are not replaced on my truck because it uses coil packs
7) Transmission fluid changed - Pan drop
8) Radiator/coolant system drained - Replaced
9) Fuel filter - Replaced
10) Timing belt changed/inspected - Truck uses a timing chain, no need
11) Brakes inspected - Inspected
12) PCV Valve - replaced
13) Cooling and Vaccume Hoses - Inspected
14) Inspect CV Joints - Inspected

For all of that, and prompt service, and what looks to be a solid job -- 880 bucks. I am happy.

Wow, there is no way in my life I would ever pay that much for that amount of service.

I'm betting they didnt replace your trans filter either.

If you would have done it yourself you would have saved about $500.

[Serendipity]

Wow, there is no way in my life I would ever pay that much for that amount of service.

I'm betting they didnt replace your trans filter either.

If you would have done it yourself you would have saved about $500.

I did it myself and figured that I saved a few hundred dollars.

The transmission fluid change made a HUGE difference - the old fluid was dark red vs. the new which was light pink. Most importantly, the shifts are smoother and you don't feel anything (literally) going from R -> D or vice versa. There is still a slight "click" shifting into/out of Park, I think that is normal though...

[only126db]

I did it myself and figured that I saved a few hundred dollars.

The transmission fluid change made a HUGE difference - the old fluid was dark red vs. the new which was light pink. Most importantly, the shifts are smoother and you don't feel anything (literally) going from R -> D or vice versa. There is still a slight "click" shifting into/out of Park, I think that is normal though...

Did you replace the filter?

Whenever I do a trans fluid change I change the filter, or clean it depending on the vehicle, also it never hurts to have a small quarter size magnet stuck to your pan to collect shavings that pass the filter.

[Serendipity]

Did you replace the filter?

Whenever I do a trans fluid change I change the filter, or clean it depending on the vehicle, also it never hurts to have a small quarter size magnet stuck to your pan to collect shavings that pass the filter.

Nope, just cleaned the filter. It wasn't that dirty, since it was done by the dealer approximately 30,000 miles ago and again by a local mechanic 15,000 miles ago.

I think I will stick with the fluid changes every 15k since it seems to have improved the shift quality. There's no more "bump" when shifting gears - you can't really tell it's in reverse or w/e.

[only126db]

Nope, just cleaned the filter. It wasn't that dirty, since it was done by the dealer approximately 30,000 miles ago and again by a local mechanic 15,000 miles ago.

I think I will stick with the fluid changes every 15k since it seems to have improved the shift quality. There's no more "bump" when shifting gears - you can't really tell it's in reverse or w/e.

Thats always a good thing(trans working right) :D

[Serendipity]

Thats always a good thing(trans working right) :D

Yup, it's much smoother and a better ride. In hilly areas, the trans going in/out of overdrive used to have annoying, pronounced shifts. Now, to a large extent, you don't even feel it!