- LOUD Buzz from B&K Ref 30 -

[MKZ]

How can I eliminate the LOUD static Buzz from B&K Ref 30?
First I thought it was from the B&K AV5000 amp. I have tried different sources/ICs and it appears to be from Ref 30. It starts making noises as soon as turn on the amp even I unplugged the Ref 30. When I connected the CD player directly to Amp, there is no buzz and plays well. Thanks in advance for any helps.

[MKZ]

Contacted to B&K and they like to send it in. They would charge $60/hr plus shipping both way. Anyone has experience with them? Does it worth it? Or should I get another pre/pro? I can't live without it. Please advice.

[unc2701]

Try a factory reset... if no dice, put it on Ebay with a clear description of the issue.

A $60 an hour, you can replace the thing after about 5 hours, but someone will probably pay about $100 to take a crack at it. Just be totally honest in the description.

[MKZ]

Thanks. Good idea. I might look at other brand if it still failed. Most B&K usually reliable?

[unc2701]

I believe it's SLEEP DOWN and MENU all at the same time (or SLEEP UP DOWN... one resets, one gives you access to the advanced menu).

I haven't had any issues w/ my B&K gear, but it does seem to run kinda hot. Now seems like a good time to pick up an Outlaw 990, with their recent price drop.

[AndyGwis]

I love B&K gear. Typically very good reliabililty / build quality.

Have you tried to clean the contacts with de-oxit or anything? That sometimes helps.

Is it a digital input giving you the hum, or just the unit powered on by itself? I get a hum from my TV, but that's just due to the TV digital audio output being a weak link.

[MKZ]

It works :). Thank you unc2701 and AndyGwis.

The build/sound quality of B&K is better but I have/had Denon for 20+ years and never had this kinda problems.

Right, the amp running hot so I kept the amp on the side next to speaker stands instead on shelves.

I usually clean with just alcohol and works for me. I'll try Pro-Gold like Doro later on.

[dkg999]

Are you sure it's not a ground loop? Try disconnecting your cable/sat coax. I would put a ground loop isolator on your cable/sat feed to your box or TV.

[MKZ]

I was thought about that so I remove the ground pin from PS Audio Plus power cord. The amp doesn't really use the ground since there is no connection for ground inside.

[AndyGwis]

It works . Thank you unc2701 and AndyGwis.

Wait, so the hum is gone? Did the contacts need to be cleaned, or did the reset work, or was it the ground loop?

Glad you got it figured out. I've had hums here and there from other equipment, most of the time it's ground loop or bad contacts or something minor.

[MKZ]

The reset works for my problem. I think it is not hum. It was like flying bees very loud, not sure what to choose the word for that.

[AndyGwis]

buzz probably works best.

Sorry, I only know hums, not buzzes.

[unc2701]

Yeah, "buzz" often means that it's trying to put something into the digital decoder & it's just not working; "hum" is the ground loop, IC, etc issues you guys mention.

It probably just got a relay clusterf*cked & the factory reset kicked it back over. If it keeps on happening you might have to manually set the digital/ analog setting for each input and/or the DTS (no need for DTS on the output from a CD player).

[MKZ]

Yeah, "buzz" often means that it's trying to put something into the digital decoder & it's just not working; "hum" is the ground loop, IC, etc issues you guys mention.

It probably just got a relay clusterf*cked & the factory reset kicked it back over. If it keeps on happening you might have to manually set the digital/ analog setting for each input and/or the DTS (no need for DTS on the output from a CD player).

Can you explain more on DTS?

[unc2701]

I think there's a parameter for switching over to DTS on each digital input (I could be wrong- it might just be a global parameter). Anyhow, sometimes they'll get stuck in the DTS mode OR miss the DTS header when you start up a DVD that has a DTS soundtrack and the symptom is a buzz like you describe (sometimes more of a fast clicking w/ buzz).

The bottom line is that if an input is only going to be PCM, or analog, you can disable all the decoding options for the input. 'Course if this only happens every few months & you don't customize your settings too much, it's just as easy to pull the factory reset whenever it happens.

[MKZ]

I think there's a parameter for switching over to DTS on each digital input (I could be wrong- it might just be a global parameter). Anyhow, sometimes they'll get stuck in the DTS mode OR miss the DTS header when you start up a DVD that has a DTS soundtrack and the symptom is a buzz like you describe (sometimes more of a fast clicking w/ buzz).

The bottom line is that if an input is only going to be PCM, or analog, you can disable all the decoding options for the input. 'Course if this only happens every few months & you don't customize your settings too much, it's just as easy to pull the factory reset whenever it happens.

Good point. I might need to disable those options. Thank you.
B&K uses big capacitors for amp to stored energy and other purposes but ref 30 doesn't have it and even though I did unplugged it and signals are still coming out. I'm still confusing how is that happened.

[MKZ]

It happened again and reset doesn't work. Do you know how can I check the ground?

[MKZ]

http://www.radioshack.com/sm-buy-the-ground-loop-isolator-on-http-wwwradioshackcom--pi-2062214.html

Is that the one I should use it? Where should I install that? Between Amp and pre?

[unc2701]

Really doesn't feel like a ground loop issue... usually that's not intermittent like you're describing... unless there's something loose in the ref 30.

Do you have a voltmeter?

[MKZ]

I don't have one but I think I can get one from radioshacks. Do I need service manual to check ground?

[unc2701]

Service manual here:
http://www.bkcomp.com/fileadmin/content/bk_support/Service%20Manual/REF_30_SM.pdf

I'll look it over tonight and give you a thing or two to test.

[MKZ]

Thank you unc2701. I just sent out to B&K today. The tech said it would be broken solder joint and about an hour of labor but they have to look at it and get back to me what's going on. I think that's possible since I played switching ICs much these days.