Truck experts, JStas - etc - question...

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

I think around Jan or Feb of 09 I am going to take my truck to the dealership for some work.

While I am there, I want to..

A) get the throttle body and internal intake cleaned

and

B) get the front and rear shocks replaced...

I want better shocks than what comes on the truck --- I dont want adjustable shocks (no dials) -- I dont want to spend an arm and a leg, but I want a baby smooth ride, do I need to replace other components other than the shocks to do this?

Thanks

[Serendipity]

From what I understand, it is cheaper to do both struts and springs at the same time; since the mechanic is already removing the struts you might as well do both together.

Kind of like replacing your timing belt and water pump at the same time - since the water pump is driven off the timing belt you might as well replace them together.

I may be wrong though...

[Jstas]

Pickup trucks don't have struts unless it's some lame pile of poo like a Honduh Ridgeline which is nothing more than an Accord wagon faking like it's a truck.


As far as shocks, you can go with the Edelbrock shocks, lotsa guys like them but honestly, I'd spend an arm and a leg and get Bilsteins. They came stock on my truck and are gonna cost me about $600 in parts to replace but I got 106,000+ miles on them and they are just now starting to show their age.

The thing is that my truck has a much stiffer suspension with alot less travel and the Bilsteins smooth out what would normally be a harsh ride. I like them so much that I am probably going to get the from Hotchkis again and replace them for another 110,000 miles.

But usually, if shocks on a vehicle that are worn feel harsh, it's because they are worn. You might get better performance and ride comfort just replacing the stock shocks.

If you really want to go cheap though, go to Pep Boys and get a set of Gabriel shocks. I used them religiously on my Ranger and they did a good job for only being about $40 a pop and that thing bounced like a fat kid on a moon bounce.They tamed the ride fairly well.

If you REALLY want cloud 9 like ride, get squishy shock and replace your springs with air bags. Very expensive but real nice AND adjustable ride height! WOOHOO! In the weeds or in the trees, it's all good!

[Jstas]

Oh, yeah and mod motors don't have timing belts, they have timing chains like a proper engine should. I also do not believe that the water pump is driven with the timing gear. The oil pump might be but not the water pump.

Just because Honduh and Turdota make boneheaded engineering decisions like that doesn't mean the rest of the automotive world does.

As for Sid's truck, if his engine is anything like mine, the only thing that Ford recommends you check is tensions on the timing chain. There is no service recommended for the timing set, it's made to last the life of the engine. If it does wear out and skip a tooth, it is not going to cause catastrophic damage because, again, unlike the previously mentioned "shining examples of engineering", Sid's engine is not an interference engine so it won't eat itself alive if the timing gets out of whack. Just replace the broken parts, reset the timing and the ignition computer and start 'er up.

And even if Sid's truck is a V6, everything above pretty much holds true.

[eloplayspolo]

j - i know u know way more about cars then i ever will... but how the hell can u bash toyota and honda...... the 2 most reliable cars out there

my girl has a tacoma with the TRD package and i took it offroading a few times with her and that thing is beast compared to the silverado and the ranger i went in. i prob did a few things i shouldnt have such as drive 45 on a gravel road (blah blah hit a rock and it cracks the axle) but never once did i feel unsafe in it and i couldnt go 30 in the ranger or silverado without feeling like i was going to die... which is fun to a point.

idk... my grandfather owned a RV company and a v8 chevrolet and ford couldnt pull the big ones.... but a little toyota truck could do it no problem.

[Kex]

Sorry: completely off topic, so deleted ...

[audiobliss]

blah blah blah
Whao, did someone say something??

:confused: :rolleyes: :p :D

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

My truck has an off and on rough idle - could this be the catalytic converter? I was told it is.

So I am thinking may need to get the throttle body and exhaust system changed out along with getting the inner intake cleaned as well...

(120,000 miles)

The shocks on mine feel worn, takes road variances very badly...

And mine is the 4.6L V8

[Jstas]

j - i know u know way more about cars then i ever will... but how the hell can u bash toyota and honda...... the 2 most reliable cars out there

my girl has a tacoma with the TRD package and i took it offroading a few times with her and that thing is beast compared to the silverado and the ranger i went in. i prob did a few things i shouldnt have such as drive 45 on a gravel road (blah blah hit a rock and it cracks the axle) but never once did i feel unsafe in it and i couldnt go 30 in the ranger or silverado without feeling like i was going to die... which is fun to a point.

idk... my grandfather owned a RV company and a v8 chevrolet and ford couldnt pull the big ones.... but a little toyota truck could do it no problem.


I really don't care.

[TouchOfEvil]

Edelbrock shocks in general may be ok but the IAS are some stiff riding shocks. The bilsteins are stiffer than those. I have had both and now i run Doetsch Tech shocks.
Alot nicer feeling than the other two mentioned. Not as stiff and very good with larger bumps.

[TouchOfEvil]

My truck has an off and on rough idle - could this be the catalytic converter? I was told it is.

So I am thinking may need to get the throttle body and exhaust system changed out along with getting the inner intake cleaned as well...

(120,000 miles)

The shocks on mine feel worn, takes road variances very badly...

And mine is the 4.6L V8

Fairly easy to check the cats. Take it to a exhaust shop they will put it on a rack start the truck and let it idle. Then they will use a surface temp gauge to measure the temp before and after the cat. If it's way off from front to back they are clogged. If not then they are fine.
For a throttle body get some cleaner and a rag man. It's that easy.
If you wanna clean the inner intake it depends on what you mean....you can clean a decent bit by a rag and your hand or you can remove the whole intake and clean.
Ethier way i doubt it will make much differance on the intake itself.
Normally worst case you might have a thin layer of oil coating the intake GM has this problem alot but for the most part if you get oil in the intake it goes down the runners and burns off in the cylinder.
This isn't a good thing but a simple cleaning of the intake won't fix the problem is waht i am getting at.

Off and on rough idle could just be plugs and wires. MAF might need to be cleaned injectors could be dirty...i mean you could have a huge list of potential small problems at your mileage.

[eloplayspolo]

I really don't care.

no no wasnt making an argument sorry worded that poorly i guess... i was wondering why u feel other companies make a better vehicle.

[Serendipity]

Fairly easy to check the cats. Take it to a exhaust shop they will put it on a rack start the truck and let it idle. Then they will use a surface temp gauge to measure the temp before and after the cat. If it's way off from front to back they are clogged. If not then they are fine.
For a throttle body get some cleaner and a rag man. It's that easy.
If you wanna clean the inner intake it depends on what you mean....you can clean a decent bit by a rag and your hand or you can remove the whole intake and clean.
Ethier way i doubt it will make much differance on the intake itself.
Normally worst case you might have a thin layer of oil coating the intake GM has this problem alot but for the most part if you get oil in the intake it goes down the runners and burns off in the cylinder.
This isn't a good thing but a simple cleaning of the intake won't fix the problem is waht i am getting at.

Off and on rough idle could just be plugs and wires. MAF might need to be cleaned injectors could be dirty...i mean you could have a huge list of potential small problems at your mileage.

I think his truck uses coil packs... but I agree the MAF might need cleaning along with the rest of the things already indicated in this thread.

[HiPerf360]

the import companies are getting close to building a real 1/2 ton truck but still have a way to go.

They are not even close on a real truck.

[only126db]

I think around Jan or Feb of 09 I am going to take my truck to the dealership for some work.

While I am there, I want to..

A) get the throttle body and internal intake cleaned

and

B) get the front and rear shocks replaced...

I want better shocks than what comes on the truck --- I dont want adjustable shocks (no dials) -- I dont want to spend an arm and a leg, but I want a baby smooth ride, do I need to replace other components other than the shocks to do this?

Thanks

A catalytic converter generally will not create an on and off performance situation unless there is a loose chunk of catalyst floating around inside which is clogging and unclogging your exhaust.

You can check this by hitting the cat with your hand and listening for a chunk to bounce around(make sure exhaust is cooled down)

Usually a cat will either completely clog or just burn out.

As for cleaning your throttle body internaly, I would use throttle body cleaner(spray) and call it a day. I dont even know if the dealership would clean the throttle body, generally all they do is run a fuel system cleaner through your vehicle which never touches the intake side of an air intake, usually only on the throttle bodies with top mounted injectors(gm type).

Shocks will depend on what is available for your vehicle, not all manufacturers make all their product lines for all vehicles. Monroe is a good budget all around shock, but you will have to check and see what specific models are made for your truck, they usually say what type of ride they give unless they are a straight replacement shock.

Also for a smooth ride you need to check to see that all tierods, bushings, bump stops, seals and linkages are in good shape, they all have a part in ride comfort and control.

[ben62670]

Dude a real cheap thing to do is add some Marvel Mystery Oil to your gas. 16oz added to about 15 gallons is good. Rump on it a bit to get the FI cleaned, and lubed then take care of the rest. It has made a big difference in more than a few I have recommended this too. Mileage, and power wise.
Ben

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Alright here is the list I have compiled of things I want done --

Replace -
DFPE Sensor
IAC Valve
Hoses from DFPE sensor to EGR Valve
Thoughts on o2 Sensor replacement? Advantages? Needed?

Clean -
EGR Inlet Tubes
EGR Valve
Throttle Body & Throttle Body Neck - With Throttle Body Snake
Lower Intake Housing (below Throttle Body)
MAF Sensor
Fuel Injectors

Of course replace front and rear shocks...

Any other sensors or filters that should be cleaned or replaced at my mileage to improve ride quality, idling, fuel mileage...

Last check up I replaced the fuel filter and pcv valve - so those are good.

[Serendipity]

Isn't your truck a 2004? Why so much work required on such a newish truck?

[Vr3MxStyler2k3]

Yeah but its got 120,000 miles on it...

[Serendipity]

Holy cow how much do you drive a year?

[jdwmap]

Look at Air Lift Company or Firestone, You didn't mention towing, but if you ever do these will give you a much smoother ride. They will also help for normal driving, but make it night and day different for towing or hauling.

[Jstas]

Alright here is the list I have compiled of things I want done --

Replace -
DFPE Sensor
IAC Valve
Hoses from DFPE sensor to EGR Valve
Thoughts on o2 Sensor replacement? Advantages? Needed?

The IAC isn't cheap. At least not at dealer prices. O2 sensors are not cheap at all but they can, with out a doubt, improve vehicle running and efficiency. Again though, you are looking at a PILE of cash to replace them. Your truck likely has 4 of the and at about 120-210 a pop, that's an expensive proposition.


Clean -
EGR Inlet Tubes
EGR Valve
Throttle Body & Throttle Body Neck - With Throttle Body Snake
Lower Intake Housing (below Throttle Body)
MAF Sensor
Fuel Injectors

Cleaning the EGR inlets and such aren't going to help much. There isn't a performance advantage to the EGR system being cleaned and honestly, the dirtiness can help with heating up the EGR system in the cold weather. But if you are replacing the EGR, cleaning it is a waste of time.

If you are going to clean the throttle body and intake system, remove the fuel injectors because thee solvents in the throttle body clean will destroy them. DON'T USE CARB CLEANER! You don't necessarily need a snake either. An old tooth brush or a non-metal bristled detailed brush will work too. But you're not going to get much benefit from cleaning the intake system Most intake systems of fuel injected cars with SEFI are dry systems. Meaning that fuel doesn't get added until the end of the intake path so the manifolds are not wet with fuel. No fuel, no varnish unless it's from oil from the breather/recirculation system. If so, it will not be easy to get off at all.

Cleaning the fuel injectors should be left to a professional but even though injectors are not cheap, they are still cheaper than paying someone to clean them. You can just get new ones and turn the old ones in for cores to get remanufactured.

Cleaning the MAF is not something that should really be done. You can cause more damage than the dirt. But if you are going to do it, do not use any solvents, they are too strong. Use canned air for a computer from Staples or something to blow off the dust and then denatured alcohol and a cloth that will not leave fibers on the the MAF. It's an electrical component and needs to be handled with care. Personally, I'd stop at the canned air. If it is dirty enough, get a new one and turn your old one in on a core.


Of course replace front and rear shocks...

Any other sensors or filters that should be cleaned or replaced at my mileage to improve ride quality, idling, fuel mileage...

Last check up I replaced the fuel filter and pcv valve - so those are good.


The sensors really don't need to be replaced or cleaned until the computer throws a code. As long as there is no code, the sensors are operating within the appropriate range. Thee O2 Sensor and the IAC are about the only exceptions I would make for that but they cost a good deal of money.

I would go and get yourself a K&N air filter or the Fuel Injection performance Kit if you want to do something to help efficiency. Also, I know that it is expensive and can be loud but a high flow exhaust can improve mileage while making more power. You can get high flow mufflers that are pretty quiet too. If you want an exhaust that isn't real loud but has a nice rumble to it, get a Hooker system. They are quite mellow but flow pretty well. But again, that's high cost.

Remember, an engine is an air pump, the more air you move through it, the more power it will make.




Look at Air Lift Company or Firestone, You didn't mention towing, but if you ever do these will give you a much smoother ride. They will also help for normal driving, but make it night and day different for towing or hauling.

The only thing I can think of that you would be referring to is an air-bag system for load leveling or to replace the springs. I really think that is overkill for his situation and the cost is quite high for a benefit he may never see.

[NotaSuv]

I really don't care.

typical a-hole answer

[eloplayspolo]

idk... hes a very knowledgeable guy... maybe he just didnt have any proof this time.... and hes just bias

[AsSiMiLaTeD]

^^^ That's John for ya...

John knows his stuff, especially when it comes to cars, no one I think ever questions that. But his blind hatred of Toyotas of the world portrays a certain level if ignorance that seems to be inconsistent with the knowledge that he has.

Wanna say Toyota doesn't make a truck as strong as one of the big 3, that's fine, I don't know much about it so who am I to argue. But to say Toyota and Honda can't engineer a car is just plain dumb. I'm pretty sure the engineering at those companies plays a role in their cars being more reliable than models from the big three. I've heard people say Toyota can't make a strong truck, never heard anyone say their engineering sucks - that's a new one for me...

[concealer404]

It's more likely bias.... There always has been and probably will be a bias against foreign trucks unfortunately.

It's because they haven't been building them since 1880s, when most of the technology for the popular trucks arose. Us truck drivers don't like "new" things or "new" ideas.

I liked my old Silverado a lot. That being said, for what i used it for, i enjoyed my old Toyota Taco a HELL of a lot more. And yeah, that's comparing apples and oranges, but anyone shopping for a new truck owes it to themselves to at least give the Titan and Tundra a look. They're no longer small players in the full size market.

[AsSiMiLaTeD]

We have a Tundra with the larger V8, and we absolutely love it. We also have a 2004 4Runner that we love as well, and that's our daily driver.

On the Tundra, I'm sure it's not as strong as a Chevy or a Ford, probably not as fast either. My dad does landscaping work, so I get to see and drive all kinds of trucks that he uses - he has several Dodge and Ford that he uses as work truck, and a Chevy Durham as his own personal truck. You wouldn't catch him dead driving a Toyota, says he needs the strength of the bigger trucks to pull his Bobcats around and such.

Since I've never pushed any of the trucks, I can't honestly compare the power of the Tundra to one of his diesels, but I assume one of his trucks would drag my Tundra all over the place.

However, not one of his trucks, not even the nice plush Dodges or his Chevy, compares to my Tundra in terms of handling or comfort. Yeah, I know it's a truck, but who says a truck has to ride rough and handle poorly. The Tundra is quieter, better finished on the inside, rides better, and drives better than any of his trucks - we took it to Colorado last year and it was a very confortable ride even on that 12 hour drive.

My point is not to bash the American trucks, as I've already conceded that they're probably stronger than the Toyota, my point is that the blind bashing of trucks like the Tundra doesn't make sense - they're great trucks and perform quite well. I pulled one of his diesel bobcats a couple of months ago with my little weak Tundra, absolutely no problems whatsoever.

[concealer404]

We have a Tundra with the larger V8, and we absolutely love it. We also have a 2004 4Runner that we love as well, and that's our daily driver.

On the Tundra, I'm sure it's not as strong as a Chevy or a Ford, probably not as fast either. My dad does landscaping work, so I get to see and drive all kinds of trucks that he uses - he has several Dodge and Ford that he uses as work truck, and a Chevy Durham as his own personal truck. You wouldn't catch him dead driving a Toyota, says he needs the strength of the bigger trucks to pull his Bobcats around and such.

Since I've never pushed any of the trucks, I can't honestly compare the power of the Tundra to one of his diesels, but I assume one of his trucks would drag my Tundra all over the place.

However, not one of his trucks, not even the nice plush Dodges or his Chevy, compares to my Tundra in terms of handling or comfort. Yeah, I know it's a truck, but who says a truck has to ride rough and handle poorly. The Tundra is quieter, better finished on the inside, rides better, and drives better than any of his trucks - we took it to Colorado last year and it was a very confortable ride even on that 12 hour drive.

My point is not to bash the American trucks, as I've already conceded that they're probably stronger than the Toyota, my point is that the blind bashing of trucks like the Tundra doesn't make sense - they're great trucks and perform quite well. I pulled one of his diesel bobcats a couple of months ago with my little weak Tundra, absolutely no problems whatsoever.

You driven a brand new Tundra yet? You didn't say what year yours is.... It's FAST for a full size truck. WAY faster than chevy or dodge's gas-powered offerings. People are running mid 14s in these things. The new 5.7 in them is a HELL of an engine.

The thing that kills Toyota and Nissan is that they don't have the tow packages in place, or the diesel options to tow ridiculous loads that most people will never tow. And that's something that even i can hold against them, because i DO want a truck that is rated for 10,000lbs. Eventually of course.... i'm fine with something rated for 5,000 at the moment, i only have one car that i need to tow.

[AsSiMiLaTeD]

Yes, ours is the 2007, with the 5.7L V8

[AsSiMiLaTeD]

By the way, I've no complaints about the speed or power of our trucks. It's fast as hell, and like I said has had no problems pulling any load I've hitched on to it, though again my experience there is limited.

[Jstas]

HAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

Wow!

But I'm the asshole, right?

[eloplayspolo]

^^^^^ ahaha.
i just said what i did to try to bait u into giving me some good info.

I heard from a few peeps that the Nissan Titan is the quickest truck out right now.
Anyone know if this isnt true?

i know theres a dodge ram that comes with a viper engine and is a v10 i think... but if u want a viper... get a viper

[concealer404]

^^^^^ ahaha.
i just said what i did to try to bait u into giving me some good info.

I heard from a few peeps that the Nissan Titan is the quickest truck out right now.
Anyone know if this isnt true?

i know theres a dodge ram that comes with a viper engine and is a v10 i think... but if u want a viper... get a viper


It's the quickest gas-powered, n/a V8 truck being mass produced. Well, it's a dead tie with the Tundra.

Tundra tests 6.2-6.3 0-60
Titan tests 6.4-6.5

Quarter mile is a dead heat, with most magazines testing to a 14.8 quarter mile for both. That being said, i've seen a local guy nail a 14.5 in a Tundra, but haven't seen any Titans run in person yet.

And here's an interesting quote:

"It all boils down to class-leading output, some 381 horsepower at 5,600 rpm and a whopping 401 pound-feet at 3,600 revs. And it does it all on 87 octane while meeting ULEV II emissions. For reference, Dodge's 5.7-liter Hemi produces just 345 hp, while GM's Vortec Max 6.0-liter V8 makes 367 hp. The Dodge and GM V8s both develop 375 lb-ft of torque. Nissan's 5.6-liter V8 makes only 317 hp and 385 lb-ft of torque."

To clarify, i'm not biased AGAINST american trucks, it's just hard to argue what Toyota can do when they really want to do it. The old Tundra just couldn't compete. It was a full size truck for people who like Tacomas, which really, probably appealed to me more, but in order to try to get a real slice of the market, it's hard to argue against what they did.

The motor in this truck is a BEAST.

<EDIT>
This, interests me a great deal, too.

"Toyota began selling a bolt-on supercharger kit for the 5.7L V8 Tundra during June 2008. Power output is increased to 504 hp (376 kW) and 550 pound-feet (750 N·m). When installed by a Toyota dealer the existing warranty remains intact.[10] This kit features Eaton's Twin Vortices Series supercharger which utilizes twin four-lobe rotors, a design shared with the newly introduced C6 ZR1 and CTS-V.[11]

MSRP for the kit is set at $5,875.[12]

Edmunds tested a TRD supercharged Tundra which ran 13.3 sec @ 103.8 mph in the 1/4 mile.[13] Edmunds previously tested a naturally aspired 5.7L V8 Tundras which posted 14.8 sec @ 93.7mph time.[14]"



OH YEAH.