My first DIY subwoofer

[kawizx9r]

Title says it, it's my first DIY subwoofer. I've made maybe 2 boxes total in the past for car audio, but nothing crazy at all. This project is posted on another forum as well but it seems that place doesn't get much traffic and the only person helping there is a mod (thanks Mike).

So far it's come out to 209 bucks for the amp+sub driver (shipped) and materials. I'll need a few more such as the porting, stuffing, etc. Talk about a budget subwoofer though :D

Mike used some software to determine the length of the port using a 4" flared port to reach output of around 19-21hz. He suggested I go with a total length of 17" for the box that is approximately 4 cu. ft. Question is, what is/should be the diameter of the actual port inside the box? Can I get away with 2" since that's what it seems that the original HSU VTF-3 HO subwoofer uses anyway. I assumed the 4" diameter was of the flared port itself, especially after going to Lowes today and seeing how big a 4" pvc pipe really is. :rolleyes: Pics to come

-Freddy

PS Do I count the sub driver as part of the cost? My wife bought that for me :D

[kawizx9r]

Here's the driver, don't mind the dust....I had just taken it out of the triple box packaging and it got a tad bit dirty.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV11799.jpg

[leroyjr1]

Call Epik, SVS or HSU to see if they have any ports for sale

[kawizx9r]

Dayton plate amplifier, MDF board and a few other things

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/peamp002.jpg

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV11990.jpg

I've still got a sheet of 2' 4 1/2" x 4' 1/2" of mdf and 3 panels, since I'll have plenty left over I might just karma it or give it away to anyone that might need/use it around here.

[leroyjr1]

What's the power rating of the amp plate?

[ben62670]

The port is actually 4 inches id from one end to the other. A 2 inch port would be chuffing from too much port velocity.

[kawizx9r]

What's the power rating of the amp plate?

It's a Dayton 240watt@4ohm rms amplifier as a friend said, but this thing has a much larger transformer and requires a bit more power than P.E.'s current 240watt Dayton amp. The driver sounded very nice when tested on free-air :D

[kawizx9r]

The port is actually 4 inches id from one end to the other. A 2 inch port would be chuffing from too much port velocity.

Hmm...here's a link of the HSU VTF-3 MK3's insides. It uses the same everything to include box size except a different driver and slightly less rated amplifier. http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/speakers/subwoofers/vtf-3-mk3-sub/vtf-3-mk3-build-quality

[leroyjr1]

Are you going to do any bracing to the box?

[kawizx9r]

Are you going to do any bracing to the box?

Yep, I can get away with plywood as it's stated on alot of other DIY projects but since I've got plenty of MDF left over I'll use that. I do know that'll take into account the actual volume of the box as well and will probably keep it near factory-spec.

[leroyjr1]

Check out some pics from AVS Forum DIY subwoofer threads.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646455

[comfortablycurt]

Looks like a fun project Freddy!

I've thought about going the DIY route myself, when I decide to upgrade my sub. The Epik Vanquish(or maybe the Sentinel) is screaming my name though...:cool:

That upgrades still up in the air though.

[kawizx9r]

Check out some pics from AVS Forum DIY subwoofer threads.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=646455

Nice, I've done a hell of alot of picture hunting and have seen some great builds. Here's a few on this site, scroll down and check out the Rubik's cube ;)
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/reviews.html

[kawizx9r]

Looks like a fun project Freddy!

I've thought about going the DIY route myself, when I decide to upgrade my sub. The Epik Sentinel(or maybe the Vanquish) is screaming my name though...:cool:

That upgrades still up in the air though.

Heh, I could still wait awhile and grab something bigger and badder down the road but this DIY subwoofer just has the 'fun factor' in it :D That and my place is pretty small, so this sub alone will be overkill.

Those Epik's are beasts! You can check them out personally near Crystal Lake just an hour from me. Thing is if you walked in there, you'd be sure to walk out holding one of those badboys lol

[ben62670]

DIY subs are a great way to fly if you can build a good box. There are a few of us hear that have built some subs that cost $400-700 to build that smoke many other subs that cost much more.
Do you have one of these and a router?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=365-250
Best money you will ever spend building your own speakers

[jacob.simpson]

Can you provide the link to the web where you bought the amp since i am looking for one with dual voltage selector, this would probably for a diy project/

[kawizx9r]

DIY subs are a great way to fly if you can build a good box. There are a few of us hear that have built some subs that cost $400-700 to build that smoke many other subs that cost much more.
Do you have one of these and a router?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=365-250
Best money you will ever spend building your own speakers

I've seen those and heard many great things. No unfortunately I don't have the tools at my disposal. I might have to do the work at my wife's uncles house tbh, we'll see. Unless a local polkie wants to help me out some? :p

Any thoughts on the port after looking at the link on audioholics Ben?

[comfortablycurt]

Heh, I could still wait awhile and grab something bigger and badder down the road but this DIY subwoofer just has the 'fun factor' in it :D That and my place is pretty small, so this sub alone will be overkill.

Those Epik's are beasts! You can check them out personally near Crystal Lake just an hour from me. Thing is if you walked in there, you'd be sure to walk out holding one of those badboys lol

That's part of the reason I want to buy an Epik. They're designed, and BUILT in the United States...plus they're even in my home state. I try to buy as much American stuff as I can...that's hard to do anymore though...

I may still end up doing a DIY sub...that's all yet to be determined. My current sub is more than enough for my small room, so I'm not too worried about it yet.

At this point though, I'm guessing I'll end up eventually going with a pair of Epik Vanquish's. I want a nice, tight, fast, sealed musical sub, that can also hit nice and low for HT...a pair of them actually. The Vanquish should fit the bill.

My system get's used for music far more than HT...probably like an 80/20 split, so I value musicality over anything else. Stereo subs would be great.:)

[kawizx9r]

Can you provide the link to the web where you bought the amp since i am looking for one with dual voltage selector, this would probably for a diy project/

It's the model prior to this one - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-804

I got it from a friend that didn't even need it or use it for much cheaper. Looking at the one on Parts express though I don't see a voltage select switch. I could recommend checking out oaudio.com as well for a plateamp, see if they've got any with different voltage settings. I've read alot of good things about them as well and considered them if I didn't go with the Dayton amp.

You can always modify one too to run @240v I would think, but you'd have to turn elsewhere for that sort of thing.

[kcoc321]

Can you provide the link to the web where you bought the amp since i am looking for one with dual voltage selector, this would probably for a diy project/

http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=505

[jacob.simpson]

Tnx for the update, yes the PE no more has any with dual voltage,
i have not heard much reviews about oaudio, they do have a dual voltage amp. I myself was planning svs to use here and take home when i go back, but the transport cost to my country is unimaginable and very high.
Other option what i have is MPDSW1000

[kcoc321]

maybe try the Dalton website direct.
Or give PartsExpress a call.
I have read good things about their CS.

[kawizx9r]

You guys should've seen the face though on the guy that cut the MDF at Lowes, along with the expression my wife gave shortly after.

The first 2 panels cut were the 20" x 17", and he asked if those were the sides.....I told him that's just the front/rear.

When he asked what the next 2 pieces were, I said 23 1/2" x 20" once they were cut out they only imagined how big the box would actually be :D

[jacob.simpson]

maybe try the Dalton website direct.
Or give PartsExpress a call.
I have read good things about their CS.
yes i did check pe cs but they dont carry any dual volt now.
will try Dayton web

[ben62670]

You do not want to use a 2 inch port on a driver 10 or more inches. Did you use WINisd to model the speaker design?

[kawizx9r]

You do not want to use a 2 inch port on a driver 10 or more inches. Did you use WINisd to model the speaker design?

Not the port itself, I meant the tube inside. Maybe it looks to be 3 inches wide, I'm not sure.

The guy used WINisd to determine the length needed and such utilizing a 4" flared port. Also told me I'd see a maximum cone excursion of 19 mm at 14.5 hz. The plateamp's got subsonic filtering and won't even see anything below 18hz if it was able to reach it. Did you check out that site I linked showing the inside of the VTF-3 MK3? Just want to get it all right :D

[kawizx9r]

I'll think about doing what Lee said and call HSU tomorrow, though I want said-materials at hand already so I can work on how I will brace this thing I.E. have correct dimensions/etc. Ordering something would add a few more $ and would put off this project even longer.

[ben62670]

Again the 4 inch measurement is the id of the tube from the front to the rear. The ends will flare out anywhere from 5-8 inches.

[kawizx9r]

Again the 4 inch measurement is the id of the tube from the front to the rear. The ends will flare out anywhere from 5-8 inches.

Seriously? :eek:

The model sold uses two of these things, after seeing one today I didn't want to imagine how I'd work that thing in there. Ok, guess I'll stick with the 4" ID tube :D should be fun.

[messiah]

You should have grabbed the amp I directed you to. Too late I guess Freddy.

[kawizx9r]

You should have grabbed the amp I directed you to. Too late I guess Freddy.

Sorry Christopher! I know which ones you're talking about. If I wasn't going to see a warranty or something, I figured I'd save some more and go used. Thing is this amp is in near-new condition and was pretty cheap :D

[kawizx9r]

Again the 4 inch measurement is the id of the tube from the front to the rear. The ends will flare out anywhere from 5-8 inches.

I now see how the 4" id tube won't be a problem. I just had my wife help me hold the mdf up in place and wow, it's going to be bigger than I thought. Guess just pulling out the measuring tape and trying to picture how big it was wasn't enough. Don't even want to think about how heavy it's going to be :rolleyes:

[ben62670]

The port on my sonosub was 6x32

[kawizx9r]

The port on my sonosub was 6x32

I've seen those things more than I'd normally think I would see. I hear you get alot of flexibility when tuning ports using a sonosub. Think I'm going to check out some audio stores nearby just for some port tubes. I'd go with PVC pipe but I wouldn't know how to go with getting a flared port on both ends. The pipe in hardware stores comes in just a few different types of thickness.

[kcoc321]

Hey Freddy,
I can't help with the ports, but I would recommend checking precisely the panels you had cut at the hardware store. I have tried that before I got my own table saw and found that they varied in size and square.
IDK if you know, but for square, check the corner to corner diagonal measurement, they should measure exactly the same if they are square. I would not want you to go to assemble this and not have the pieces fit perfectly.
I look forward to seeing what it all looks like.

[kawizx9r]

Hey Freddy,
I can't help with the ports, but I would recommend checking precisely the panels you had cut at the hardware store. I have tried that before I got my own table saw and found that they varied in size and square.
IDK if you know, but for square, check the corner to corner diagonal measurement, they should measure exactly the same if they are square. I would not want you to go to assemble this and not have the pieces fit perfectly.
I look forward to seeing what it all looks like.

I appreciate your concern, and did make a mental note of that earlier. I pulled out the measuring tape and had the pieces up together as they would go (wife helped on this one, she was like :eek:) and everything measured fine.

It's going to be one heavy SOB though :cool:

[kawizx9r]

Hmmm on 3 different forums I've yet to receive any feedback regarding my bypass switch I'll be utilizing. Do I need to worry about said DPDT switch (it handles 6A@125V) if lets say I ran an Adcom 555 or Carver M-400 amplifier or anything else that's even more powerful than the internal plateamp?

Also went to 2 car audio shops today; one didn't sell many ports at all that I could use while the other shop insisted over and over I go with one of their boxes. Like wtf? I'm building my own and he wants me to go with some carpeted, wrong-sized box when I was just wanting to purchase a port assembly :confused:

[kawizx9r]

Got an answer about my switch, although I don't think I'll be able to use a thick enough gauge as I'd like to.

On another note, the person that helped me out regarding tube lengths used WinISD. Does anyone else here use it, and can help me find out if a longer tube will ultimately hurt me? I'm taking into consideration the elbow and tube that extends down behind the driver magnet. My goal isn't maximum SPL, it's deep bass that will be used primarily for HT. This was done utilizing a 17" long tube

[GV#27]

Adding length will lower the tuning freqency,small increases should prove insignificant.How much are you adding?

[kawizx9r]

Adding length will lower the tuning freqency,small increases should prove insignificant.How much are you adding?

Alright cool. I was curious about what I'd experience if I unintentionally added a longer tube. Might add anywhere from 2-4 inches or so, yes I know it's not a significant difference but I was just a bit worried considering some DIY subs must have said-tube to be a certain length. Would be nice to see even 18hz or so at a decent level although it isn't required :D

[ben62670]

For HT you really need to go way deep. My sonosub was tuned to 15hz, and I will tell you for sure there is a lot of material down there. I couldn't believe how much I was missing!

[kawizx9r]

For HT you really need to go way deep. My sonosub was tuned to 15hz, and I will tell you for sure there is a lot of material down there. I couldn't believe how much I was missing!

If I really like the way this comes out and get some good oomph for the money then I'll definitely look into one of those crazy sonosub projects. I'll ask for your recommendation before anyone else's :cool:

BUT if for some reason I end up hating it or something, EPIK subwoofers is just an hour away from me and they'll certainly have a cure for my depression :D

[ben62670]

The sono was great for finding the studs in the walls. After a while the heads of the nails/screws popped out so you didn't even need to turn the sub on to find the studs anymore. Bad thing about ports. If you cross the sub above 60 for music it will drive you nuts with port noise. After going sealed I won't go back to ports again. Also please keep in mind that I was driving my sealed subs with a straight amp without any sort of bass boost, or EQ. I know my sealed subs would do much better with proper bass management.

BTW you can do a sealed sono. It keeps the weight down, and due to the fact it is a cylinder you do not need any bracing:)

[kawizx9r]

The sono was great for finding the studs in the walls. After a while the heads of the nails/screws popped out so you didn't even need to turn the sub on to find the studs anymore. Bad thing about ports. If you cross the sub above 60 for music it will drive you nuts with port noise. After going sealed I won't go back to ports again. Also please keep in mind that I was driving my sealed subs with a straight amp without any sort of bass boost, or EQ. I know my sealed subs would do much better with proper bass management.

BTW you can do a sealed sono. It keeps the weight down, and due to the fact it is a cylinder you do not need any bracing:)

Yea, I figured if I really liked this sub I can stick with it for straight HT. My 1C's don't require a subwoofer when I do any 2 channel listening but it'd be nice to have a music-only sub thats fast, tight and accurate.

[kawizx9r]

So earlier today I placed an order for a 17"x4" port tube (flared on both ends), acoustic foam panels and adhesive spray.

While that's coming in, I want to go with a simple but nice look. I don't know if I want something of a textured look or a black lacquer finish (which will suck to keep clean being the neat freak I am). Or should I just go with some of that self-applied vinyl stuff? Any suggestions? I want it all black or grey even, and the woofer will not have a grill on it.

So far its all come out to $243, and I've got plenty of MDF left over.

[kawizx9r]

So when the doorbell rang, I didn't expect it to be FedEx.

Order came in just a day later, so I opened her up and here it is. Everything I need I now have, minus whatever I'll be doing for the finish. I think I'd like to leave it as a plain MDF box in case plans change and I want it to look like an end table or something else.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV11997.jpg

No, the knife isn't part of the deal...thats military issued. Needed an extra hdmi cable, pretty much came free with the coupons I had from my last order.

[kawizx9r]

Don't have the luxury of having my own tools unfortunately and with all the other things I've been picking up lately I'm kind of limited in terms of $. Just bought this as well after hearing all the great things about it -
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917244000P?keyword=all-in-one+cutting

So, it leads me to ask what clamps I should pick up once I want to glue things up? Unless someone wants to let me borrow some clamps nearby? ;)

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00931508000P?mv=rr
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00980755000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools&sName=Clamps
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00980756000P?mv=rr

Last one I believe will require you to provide your own clamps.....anyway if someone can recommend something affordable I'll go and grab it tomorrow. Forgot to mention, other than Sears I'm pretty close to a Lowe's as well as Home Depot and Wal-Mart.

-Freddy

I guess the "$250" dollar sub is coming out to be more, but who cares. The tool's I'll be able to keep for anything later in the future, and the DIY has it's fun factor.

[kawizx9r]

No advice? :D

[GV#27]

For box assembly I use bar clamps and drywall screws to keep things tight and in alignment until the glue dries then remove them.Pilot holes for the screws are necessary to prevent the MDF from splitting.

[GV#27]

No advice? :DI must be on another ignore list.;)

[kawizx9r]

I must be on another ignore list.;)

No not at all, no reason to have you on ignore. Only one bozo was on that list and he's long gone banned. I was just looking at some older threads + talking to the significant other.

Clamping it together using the Titebond and waiting til it dries won't be enough? I've never heard of anyone using screws for any reason other than heavily weighted subwoofers with huge 15"+ drivers, and that was as a secondary support to go along with the woodglue + extensive bracing.

[GV#27]

Clamping it together using the Titebond and waiting til it dries won't be enough? Sure that will work fine but I like using the screws especially on bigger panels to help keeping things square and the joints from sliding out of position which can happen with clamps alone.I also use dado joints instead of butt joints which also aids greatly in assembly.Post #2 in the link shows my dado method. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71073&highlight=MID+BASS+MODULE

[kawizx9r]

So this - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00980756000P?mv=rr plus bar clamps would be the better alternative seeing as I don't want to drill into my board?

Nice bass module btw, you even doubled up on the top and bottom walls. This subwoofer isn't some crazy 500-1000watt 14hz hitting project lol I've done alot of searching through other DIY projects and just got a good idea from there. Here in this project, I'm just trying to re-create the actual model this driver comes from. HSU VTF-3 HO

[GV#27]

So this - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00980756000P?mv=rr plus bar clamps would be the better alternative seeing as I don't want to drill into my board?Those should help keep it square.


you even doubled up on the top and bottom walls. top and bottom are just one layer of 3/4' MDF ,what you see is the groove resulting from the dado cut.

[kawizx9r]

Those should help keep it square.

top and bottom are just one layer of 3/4' MDF ,what you see is the groove resulting from dado cut.

Nevermind, I only looked at the second pic and didn't take notice that the front piece is the same thickness as the top/bottom.

[kawizx9r]

With a whole lot of help from a friend here I was able to put together my box. Don't expect perfection, this is my first sub and MDF is a bitch to work with. With that, here are some pics before I apply any foam in the interior walls. Solarseal caulking was used in the seams to seal up everything, and it'll be used on the port tube through the inner brace.

Pic of the front -
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12011.jpg

Pic of the rear -
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12015.jpg

It's one heavy SOB without anything inside, and pretty damn big too. Ignore the crappy flooring in those pics, I have the sub sitting out in my apartment complex' hallway lol

[leroyjr1]

Very nice

[kawizx9r]

Very nice

Thanks Lee, I just decided to skip the bypass/terminal switch for external amp options. Obviously not done yet but I will say that I've enjoyed everything so far, and if anyone's building their own sub.....an extra hand is always a plus. :cool:

[GV#27]

Nice solid(and square) looking box,a fine job for a first timer.

[kawizx9r]

Jesus, can I say that here?

This sub fucking rocks. I remember how my Velodyne CHT-12 played, and I played back some deep-bass hitting music that I couldn't hear on the Velo. Well this sub played it with ease at such low volumes (sub gain is at 1/3 and LFE out is +0.5db). I heard some LOUD rattling and ran up to the sub to see if I left something loose, sure enough it was my windows. Think I'm about to just Dynamat all my damn windows. Can't wait to properly set it up tomorrow when it's early enough to listen to music at "moderate" volumes.

Btw, I give you heavy-sub-owners some props. This SOB clearly weighs a good +95lbs, I had to lay it on a make-shift carpet and drag it to a corner lol. Pics to come :D

[kawizx9r]

After applying the acoustic foam and assembling the port.
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12033.jpg

Inside look through the front. Port done and amp set inside, I decided not to run the wires the way they're shown. Was afraid they would rattle inside the hole or something.
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12036.jpg

Rear all done up
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12037.jpg

Complete and sitting next to my speakers. :cool:
http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12041.jpg

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

Lookin' good Kawi! :) I missed it but where did you source your part's (driver/plate amp) from?

Do you plan on "finishing" the outside or just bare?

Cheer's!

[kawizx9r]

Lookin' good Kawi! :) I missed it but where did you source your part's (driver/plate amp) from?

Do you plan on "finishing" the outside or just bare?

Cheer's!

Thanks!

The plateamp came from a local friend here that had it for an extra SVS driver but later decided he wanted something bigger. Got it for only 80, and it looks pretty damn new..box+instructions too.

As for the driver, I picked that up from Jeffrey (Jephhood) on here for 50+30 shipping.

I do plan on finishing it but it just sounded so good I'd hate to take a few things out, primer+paint and be without a sub for awhile :rolleyes: It can continue to look bare since I don't really mind and we don't have much company over anyway.

On another note, that tool I picked up from Sears I took back. Claims it can cut ply/drywall/mdf/solid wood and so on using the multi-purpose bits and it just scorched the MDF. Circular cuts were made with a jigsaw, although I do see how that attachment sold by Parts-express can be a life saver if you're building several speakers. Total is still under 240, and it was well worth it :D

[concealer404]

And you have this in an apartment?!?!?

I'm starting to get second thoughts about selling my Klipsch then. It can't POSSIBLY piss off my neighbors as badly as this thing. :p

Awesome job man... you've given me inspiration to do this myself in the coming months. :D

[kawizx9r]

And you have this in an apartment?!?!?

I'm starting to get second thoughts about selling my Klipsch then. It can't POSSIBLY piss off my neighbors as badly as this thing. :p

Awesome job man... you've given me inspiration to do this myself in the coming months. :D

Yea, no one came out into the hallway....even with all the drilling I was doing. Let's hope it's not neighbors coming to my door later though if I ever get it set up properly. Moving this around for proper placement is a B! :eek:

[kawizx9r]

To add to that last statement, I think I need another subwoofer lol.

I'm listening to old tracks, bassy-trance/electronica I haven't heard in years. I can't measure how low it goes but there are times that it moves, and rattles everything but I can't hear a note played....probably under the audible range of 20hz? It's just a little too focused on the really deep bass. For the +adding a sub, I mean to say a mid-bass driver. Would use the built ins from my towers but I'd hate to run both. Otherwise it's sounding sweet!

[concealer404]

To add to that last statement, I think I need another subwoofer lol.

I'm listening to old tracks, bassy-trance/electronica I haven't heard in years. I can't measure how low it goes but there are times that it moves, and rattles everything but I can't hear a note played....probably under the audible range of 20hz? It's just a little too focused on the really deep bass. For the +adding a sub, I mean to say a mid-bass driver. Would use the built ins from my towers but I'd hate to run both. Otherwise it's sounding sweet!

I use that kind of stuff to measure if i've got everything in sync. It'll tell you immediately if your sub is delayed, or not crossed over at the right frequency, etc etc etc. It's all revealing.

What are you listening to?

[kawizx9r]

Well I'm listening to old Dj Tiesto, bassoholics and a bunch of other stuff that I don't generally listen to and won't once I'm done with this. Bassy music for me just helps me better set my sub up to meet my needs. I'm messing around with LFE+MAIN (for bass output on my AVR), as well as Cross-over cut offs on my AVR to find a nice blend. Thing is sometimes the low bass just hits so hard, and I turn it down a notch and the higher bass frequencies of around 60-100 aren't anywhere near as loud as the low bass. Might be placement/room issues since it's emphasizing the really deep bass. I'm still messing around with it though it'll just be awhile.

[concealer404]

Strangely enough.... i found my setup sounded best running my mains full range, and my sub crossed at 55hz. Go figure.

[kawizx9r]

Strangely enough.... i found my setup sounded best running my mains full range, and my sub crossed at 55hz. Go figure.

I did too with the x-over close to what you have yours set to when I ran my Velodyne (my fronts were set to Large). It blended so well, however the Velo only reached down to 25hz and when it came to that point the output was pretty low. On the otherhand, this is the opposite. I know I'm getting at least 20hz and the output is loud. I still need to move it around to tame the "lowness" a bit before I can start blending it with my mains.

[billbillw]

Nice work on the sub. It looks like a low freq beast. My wife would never allow such a behemoth in our living room though. I was lucky to get our comparatively svelte SVS PC+ (the shortest one) in there. Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what driver did you use? Is it a Dayton too?

[kawizx9r]

Nice work on the sub. It looks like a low freq beast. My wife would never allow such a behemoth in our living room though. I was lucky to get our comparatively svelte SVS PC+ (the shortest one) in there. Maybe I missed it somewhere, but what driver did you use? Is it a Dayton too?

It's a used HSU Research driver taken from the HSU VTF-3 HO model.
- http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3-ho.html

Well, unless I replace my tower surrounds with something else....the built-in subs nicely fill in the gap :D

I always wanted to get one of those SVS cylinder subs. I heard one at a low volume and you just knew it was a beast of a sub. Probably don't have as much weight when it comes to music pounding bass, but it hits those lows with ease and I was very impressed. Who knows, the next sub later on might be a sonosub :cool:

[billbillw]

It's a used HSU Research driver taken from the HSU VTF-3 HO model.
- http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-3-ho.html

Well, unless I replace my tower surrounds with something else....the built-in subs nicely fill in the gap :D

I always wanted to get one of those SVS cylinder subs. I heard one at a low volume and you just knew it was a beast of a sub. Probably don't have as much weight when it comes to music pounding bass, but it hits those lows with ease and I was very impressed. Who knows, the next sub later on might be a sonosub :cool:

Well, mine is the shortest one that is only tuned to 25Hz (IIRC), so it really doesn't hit as low as the taller ones. Supposedly, the shorter one actually plays louder though, which is what I needed since our living room is huge.

[kawizx9r]

Well, mine is the shortest one that is only tuned to 25Hz (IIRC), so it really doesn't hit as low as the taller ones. Supposedly, the shorter one actually plays louder though, which is what I needed since our living room is huge.

Convince the wife that hitting "16hz" is the trend around here. Or better yet show her the huge, ridiculous-looking (notice that I said looking not sounding) subwoofers found all over the net and that she should be glad you're not running anything like that............yet. :p

[billbillw]

Convince the wife that hitting "16hz" is the trend around here. Or better yet show her the huge, ridiculous-looking (notice that I said looking not sounding) subwoofers found all over the net and that she should be glad you're not running anything like that............yet. :p

I don't need to convince her of anything since she has never complained about the SVS and I have no desire to have anything larger.

[jephdood]

Dude.. NICE!! Glad that driver came to good use. :) Now sand the box down and put a tough finish on it. Congrats on the good work!

[kawizx9r]

Dude.. NICE!! Glad that driver came to good use. :) Now sand the box down and put a tough finish on it. Congrats on the good work!

Thanks Jeff!
It's my 'Beast' :cool:
I want to sand it down and put a simple/clean textured finish on it but it's raining like hell out here (would have to do it outside due to lack of my own workshop) and I'd be without a subwoofer for a few days while I finish it :(

I'll get to it, just not yet :p

[kawizx9r]

Ok, still posting on this thread because I've been using my subwoofer but haven't sanded it out or primered it yet for a finish.

What kind of wood filler would one recommend for MDF?

I noticed there are solvent based and water based, and although I read some differences between the two what would be my best choice when applying it to MDF board? I want to hide all the screws throughout my subwoofer so it looks really clean all the way around.

Also, I talked to someone here that works at a BMW body shop and he says primer, sand, paint, sand, paint, wet & dry sand or sand with 400+ grit and paint for a smooth piano looking finish. Any advice anyone wants to throw in in regards to that?

One last thing, because a panel slightly sticks out a bit and isn't completely flush....should I just sand the hell out of it down or is there something to lightly fill the gap in?

-Freddy

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

I would sand everything smooth (belt sander if ya got one) and use a mix of carpenter glue + sawdust for filler :o The BMW guy has the right process but i think the paper is to coarse, might wanna try something a lil' higher for the finish sanding (I'm use to this type of thing being done on metal) maybe like a 600 or 800?

[kawizx9r]

I would sand everything smooth (belt sander if ya got one) and use a mix of carpenter glue + sawdust for filler :o The BMW guy has the right process but i think the paper is to coarse, might wanna try something a lil' higher for the finish sanding (I'm use to this type of thing being done on metal) maybe like a 600 or 800?

Don't have one but I'll see if I can get my hands on one. The only real downfall to this is not having the proper tools, but if I did buy the proper tools to effectively build a sub and/or speakers it'd cost alot and that type of purchase can't be justified for a few speakers alone....hmm.

I said 400+, but I honestly think he did say something like 600 or 800 so you're both just saying the same thing.

So sawdust+carpenter glue for hiding the screws huh? I'll look into that.

-Freddy

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

You can get the same effect, minus the elbow grease, by using a sanding block. My grandfather was a carpenter/cabinet maker by trade and he always used sawdust mixed with glue, maybe cuz he was a cheap wop? I dunno :o

I have seen custom audio box builder's also use bondo/fiberglass to fill in and add shape's....

[kawizx9r]

Been sanding the subwoofer down earlier today and just finished giving it a coat of primer. Took some shots in between both jobs so here you go!

[kawizx9r]

Here's a pic of the front after being sanded down. I did it by hand since the mdf is softer than I thought and using a power sander for the edges (as I intended) was a bit too much. I rounded them off because frankly, the edges were just too sharp for my liking.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12295.jpg

Here's one I took in the middle of applying the first coat of primer. After it dries up, I'm going to sand it down some and apply another coat afterward.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12299.jpg

[ben62670]

Automotive spot putty works well as a filler. You use it after priming then skim coat the whole thing. Painting wood is just like painting a car. Every little imperfection sticks out like a Honky's but in a tar pit.

[kcoc321]

+100 on Body putty..get the "fine" grade...they have it at Napa..one step and fills in like glass (after sanding of course)

[kawizx9r]

Thanks Ben, I'll look into it since I'm OCD about these things.

I picked up some good quality enamel paint (black) but I'm not sure I want to actually paint it in such a way.

Question is, I've decided for a "textured" look. What's a good/quick/hassle-free way of getting such a finish and what type of paint should I look for exactly? Whenever I go to Sherman Williams, Lowe's and Home Depot I'm just overwhelmed with all the damn paint they carry. Thanks again guys, of course I'll provide everyone here with pics on my progress :D

-Freddy

[BIZILL]

i used bondo for auto repair to fill my gaps. worked very nicely and dries pretty quick as well. that way you can get back to sanding without waiting ten years. oh man, if only you could borrow up somebody's router to round off all corners...and ditto on imperfections sticking out like a soar thumb working with wood. the box i made for my truck had a tiny lip on it i could hardly feel by hand that showed up when i applied the spray-on truck bed liner. i had to give it some extra coats on those spots.

[kawizx9r]

Hehe, I haven't sanded it down since it's been primered and I do have a sander....not a router though.

I guess I'll work on the corners some with it, it's just by hand it seemed to go down pretty quick and just felt so much softer than wood so I didn't even want to bother. I'll do it up tomorrow, looks pretty cool right now in all-white. I wondered if I chose white, it'd be pretty cool to see the contrast with the black amp/rear port and sub-driver.

[BIZILL]

not a large enough picture, but this is with spray-on bedliner. it came out very nice in person. pretty uniform. but the brand i used which i don't recall now took weeks to cure. it stayed pretty "spongy" for awhile but now it's hard as a bedliner should be. kids kick it all the time when sitting in the extended cab and it holds up no problem. the texture is very much like my svs inside the home theater.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e139/bizill75/IMAGE_003852.jpg

[kawizx9r]

Hmm, my cousin's truck had Rhino lining. I thought about a type of spray on bed liner but I haven't seen/experienced any other brand than Rhino and that stuff was like.....5-grit sandpaper LOL It was textured/rough as hell!

[BIZILL]

there are many types/brands. rhino liner sucks anyway. line-x is better. we have a line-x spray shop in town and they do different colors and grit. line-x doesn't fade like rhino liner. there's also the DIY roll on...herculiner. just use a roller as you would for painting walls. but i think that's more gritty than i'd like. mine is smooth to the touch texture but i had to use like 3 or 4 spray cans and they are like %16 each or more. your box would probably take just as much. but the end product is phenomenal. all these products can be found at basically any auto parts store. pep boys, auto zone, checker auto parts which i think is called advance auto parts nationwide. etc, etc...

[kawizx9r]

Damn, well I think you just made up my mind about how to finish this thing off :D

[BIZILL]

i figure if it's good enough for svs, then it's good enough for me. and yes, that's my old 12.2 driver from my svs after i upgraded to the 12.3's. everyone else sold theirs off. i utilized mine for the truck since it was a nice 4 ohm driver and i have a spare sitting in my spare room for backup. but this thing slams and hadles the 500 watt rockford with ease.

and like i said, the rattle cans i used had some sort of provision on it where depending on how you adjust the nozzle, it would come out less textured or more. mine is very tough and durable yet not gritty at all. textured for sure. but very attractive. a smooth texture.

i can see how one could go wrong choosing this route though. it's alot tougher than painting with a normal spraypaint can. the texturing takes a bit of getting used to. my first can was more or less a practice can. but even if you mess up, you can layer this stuff over and over, so no worries.

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

I know you don't really care for my input but here it is anyway's:

Looking good! For a "textured" finish have a look see if you can find "fleck stone" spray bomb's, we used it all the time when we were younger because carpetting a box was not an option for us. I think DuPont is the manufacturer :confused:

The fleckstone is a mix of white/gray/black and has a similar finish to the bed liner stuff (coarse texture but not sand paper like) and is easier to work with IMHO Overall it is a med/light finish so you could still get that contrast of the light finish with dark component's you were pondering earlier ;)

:o

[kawizx9r]

I know you don't really care for my input but here it is anyway's:

Looking good! For a "textured" finish have a look see if you can find "fleck stone" spray bomb's, we used it all the time when we were younger because carpetting a box was not an option for us. I think DuPont is the manufacturer :confused:

The fleckstone is a mix of white/gray/black and has a similar finish to the bed liner stuff (coarse texture but not sand paper like) and is easier to work with IMHO Overall it is a med/light finish so you could still get that contrast of the light finish with dark component's you were pondering earlier ;)

:o

What's with the first comment? :eek:

I take everyone's opinion into consideration, unless they're on my ignore list and you're not on it :D

I'll google it now then, I have considered the bed-liner stuff before even asking it on here but I've always seen the really sand-paper coarse stuff. I'll see what's less expensive as well since that was my goal when building this thing. Even if I stopped at the primer-stage, it's a sick sub and hits damn low.

[greg2350]

Maybe something like this I bought this box like this looks and feels like a type of bedliner coating. sorry not much help wish I knew what was used it does have a nice finish and very durable. Has anyone thought of using a SR124 for a DIY home sub seems pretty beefy and would be up to the task.
http://i325.photobucket.com/albums/k373/greg2350/acura%202/SANY0093.jpg

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

What's with the first comment? :eek:

Meh just being a butthead :p

[BIZILL]

i was going to request, before i laid my head down to rest, please please please don't use the fleck.

[kawizx9r]

i was going to request, before i laid my head down to rest, please please please don't use the fleck.

LOL

Got it. At about 15 bucks per can (for 4 cans) of that liner though comes out to as much as I paid for the driver itself!

I'll check some out today at some nearby automotive shops, and see if I can get by with 3 cans.

[concealer404]

Bring it out here. I'll paint it, or have my buddy paint it in his spray booth. :)

[kawizx9r]

Bring it out here. I'll paint it, or have my buddy paint it in his spray booth. :)

I thought about hitting Nik up, he was interested in my bike jacket for the longest time and it seemed like a fair trade but I don't know if he still wants/needs it.

You making some of that crazy lasagna? Might have to make a trip down there sometime lol :D

[concealer404]

I thought about hitting Nik up, he was interested in my bike jacket for the longest time and it seemed like a fair trade but I don't know if he still wants/needs it.

You making some of that crazy lasagna? Might have to make a trip down there sometime lol :D

Nik will do a better job than either i or my buddy will, so do that instead. I can make lasagna, or whatever else you have a hankerin' for. :D

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

i was going to request, before i laid my head down to rest, please please please don't use the fleck.

What's wrong with the "fleck"? We used to use it all the time and never had any trouble with it....

[kawizx9r]

Deleted

[kawizx9r]

Nik will do a better job than either i or my buddy will, so do that instead. I can make lasagna, or whatever else you have a hankerin' for. :D

Don't tempt me, I'm getting hungry now just thinking about it. Can't wait to try those Scarlets, although whenever some funds free up I might just buy them from you.

To think in this economy we're still buying/selling audio gear :p


What's wrong with the "fleck"? We used to use it all the time and never had any trouble with it....

I have no problems with it, but if I can pay a little more for something absolutely rugged and that'll last awhile....I think I'll go with that choice instead.

[BIZILL]

What's wrong with the "fleck"? We used to use it all the time and never had any trouble with it....

you can be left with little fleck pieces that flake off when brushed up against. i guess you could clear it. it's just a personal opinion. nothing "wrong" with it. just feel there are better options out there. and yes, i've fleckstoned many things in my time.

[kawizx9r]

Sanded down, coat of primer, sanded down again, another coat....and I've got errands to run. After I'm thinking I get to sand it down again so it's ready for paint but it's getting late and the weather isn't looking too good ahead of me so I think it's going to stay like this awhile. Put it all back together and it's sitting back next to my Maggie.........now if only I had a power cord to plug it in with.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV12313.jpg

[BIZILL]

damn dude, you got me wanting to make my own DIY sub for to accompany my sda's that i've been procrastinating getting done! it doesn't look like you'll be able to pull it very far away from the side wall. but if you need to, you can pull it forward if it seems "boomy" from corner-loading.

[kawizx9r]

damn dude, you got me wanting to make my own DIY sub for to accompany my sda's that i've been procrastinating getting done! it doesn't look like you'll be able to pull it very far away from the side wall. but if you need to, you can pull it forward if it seems "boomy" from corner-loading.

I've got the gain at about.....1/5th and cross-over at around 60hz. I'm surprised how quick this sub plays but I'm still looking to try something musical. Was hoping I could finish it up so I can sell it but it looks like I'll put that off for awhile as well.

[concealer404]

Freddy, you're lacking a power cord? You need anything special? Or just a regular 2-prong male to 3-prong female?

[kawizx9r]

Freddy, you're lacking a power cord? You need anything special? Or just a regular 2-prong male to 3-prong female?

I'm lacking one now only because the preamp I got didn't have one so I used the one that I had bought for my sub. Funny thing is I drove everywhere until I found one - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3875423

I had gone to Radioshack (2-3 diff ones), hardware stores, target, a bunch of diff. places and they all had the one with the circular end on it (that ps3/ps2 uses). It was only like 8 bucks but how much $ was it in gas?! lol

[concealer404]

Oh, so you're good now? I have a couple spare OCZ ones from my old computer builds, and i don't think there's really any difference fundamentally. Might not sound as good as a $1000 cord, but it should work. I'll test one on something tonite.

[kawizx9r]

Oh, so you're good now? I have a couple spare OCZ ones from my old computer builds, and i don't think there's really any difference fundamentally. Might not sound as good as a $1000 cord, but it should work. I'll test one on something tonite.

No I'm not lol

I mean't the power had I was using for the sub is being used for the preamp. I took the tv's power cord temporarily to hook my sub up....since the wife's not home and I've got tunes going. Can't say I'll have tunes going with the sub later on when she gets home :rolleyes:

[concealer404]

Well.... AC power cord is an AC power cord.

Shoot me your address, i'll get one out in the mail for you this week.

[kawizx9r]

Well.... AC power cord is an AC power cord.

Shoot me your address, i'll get one out in the mail for you this week.

I'm afraid to see the Scarlets come in lol.

End up buying something I don't need :p

[concealer404]

Don't you dare shoot down my dastardly plan!

[kawizx9r]

Don't you dare shoot down my dastardly plan!

LOL

I'll probably end up grabbing them, my wifes pretty supportive of my 'hobby'...I mean I was looking at different pairs of Klipsch KG's and was telling her I'd like something for the bedroom. She said I can get'em as long as she's not buying them so I'm in the clear :D

[concealer404]

Well... do you want me to just wait for you to cough up the loot and i'll just stick a free AC power cord in the package?

Or do you want to demo them and i'll stick a free AC power cord in the package?

[kawizx9r]

Id still like to demo them, but whatever works for you tbh. How much thicker are those scarlets as opposed to the sidewinders?

[concealer404]

Id still like to demo them, but whatever works for you tbh. How much thicker are those scarlets as opposed to the sidewinders?

They don't seem a whole lot thicker, but they've got a "scarlet" rubber/plastic covering instead of the braided covering on the sidewinders. They're just heavier, and the connectors seem to be of higher quality.

God i keep forgetting. I PROMISE i'll update the thread with pics tonite.

[kawizx9r]

They don't seem a whole lot thicker, but they've got a "scarlet" rubber/plastic covering instead of the braided covering on the sidewinders. They're just heavier, and the connectors seem to be of higher quality.

God i keep forgetting. I PROMISE i'll update the thread with pics tonite.

LOL

Are the sidewinder connectors that you have all-red plastic looking ones or these that I have here since you're comparing them to your SW's :D

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab16/sirsoapmaister/SNV11845.jpg

Btw, you owe that thread LOTS of pics :mad:

[concealer404]

I've got these:

http://store.acousticsounds.com/images/medium/S_AQ_SIDEWIND2M__13255__01152009113027-2527.jpg

[kawizx9r]

Sweet, same kind then.

Was just wondering how much better they are/look/feel then because I did see a pair of sidewinders with the all red-connectors and they looked and felt real cheap.

[polkanddie]

Looking good with that primer!!! Lets see some paint and hi-def pics!! lol :)

[mole']

nice DIY setup there kawizx9r.

makes me wanna try something like this.

did you ever finish it up? if so some pics

[kawizx9r]

nice DIY setup there kawizx9r.

makes me wanna try something like this.

did you ever finish it up? if so some pics

I added another coat of primer after that last shot (that was months ago), but no I did not.

It's in Chris' possession now, and I believe it's still looking the same but I bet he's enjoying it much more than I did. I needed a musical sub, that sub I made was built for HT and man did it dig deep!

-Freddy

[mole']

I added another coat of primer after that last shot (that was months ago), but no I did not.

It's in Chris' possession now, and I believe it's still looking the same but I bet he's enjoying it much more than I did. I needed a musical sub, that sub I made was built for HT and man did it dig deep!

-Freddy

man oh man would i like to have a DEEP sub like that.

[kawizx9r]

Just looked back at the older pics.....I miss my SDA 1C's (even the boxes AND foam inserts were mint!), especially my Magneplanar's :(

[cstmar01]

I added another coat of primer after that last shot (that was months ago), but no I did not.

It's in Chris' possession now, and I believe it's still looking the same but I bet he's enjoying it much more than I did. I needed a musical sub, that sub I made was built for HT and man did it dig deep!

-Freddy

yep she's mine and I treat her well. That sub is great and even turned up half way it will rattle my apartment with no problem.....and yes I wanted to paint her this summer but due to all the rain I haven't had a 3 day span of when I've been home to do it and let it dry out....I might wait till the fall when it cools off so its not so humid outside so the paint doesn't get runny or does something stupid...

[Storminone]

I saw this thread a few weeks ago after I got my 60's and thought I would try it out since the little Kenwood 10" I was using wasn't keeping up.

Used a Titanic 12 and a 240 PE amp in a ported 4 cf box. :D And I didn't have such a good experience at Home Depot since they only had 4 X 8 sheets of MDF and said to place an order to have it cut and come back in 3 days, it "should" be ready. WTF? :confused:

Since the sub is centered under my plasma I made it wider than tall and found 3/4 MDF shelving that was 23 3/4 X 48 which was much more manageable and I didn't have to wait for cutting.

This thing is nice though. I've never had a "real" sub and this thing fully pressurizes the room. For about $300 total this thing rocks

[Storminone]

Sorry for the bad phone pic

IDK if you can even see the laminate contact paper stuff I used from PE

Definitely an easy, fun project for anyone :D