Speaker spikes

[concealer404]

How the eff do i find out exactly what kind of spike that i need?

My speakers already have the mounting holes for spikes. They look like they've got a 1/4" round threaded section, and a 5/16" hex threaded section.

I can't seem to find anything on Parts Express that fits.

[concealer404]

Bumpage?

Oh yeah. EMOTIVA!!!

[vc69]

LoL.

I was going to post exactly the same question. I would like some spikes for my LS90's. So I guess I'll piggyback on yours if that's ok. :o

[concealer404]

Oh, i SUPPOSE that's ok.... :p

Just going to be trying "little" tweaks over the next couple months. Speaker wire, speaker spikes, room treatments, and a DAC. Should make a HUGE difference. I hope.

[ShinAce]

room treatments, and a DAC. Should make a HUGE difference. I hope.


That's my boy!

Sorry, I don't know what spikes you need.

[vc69]

Perhaps someone could point us toward some online sources?

[NJPOLKER]

Hopefully these help

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44970&highlight=spikes

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87521&highlight=spikes

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80350&highlight=spikes

If you do a search for spikes you would be able to fund these things yourself.

[vc69]

Thanks NJ, I could not find the Madisound site for the life of me.:o

.. and I am definitely going to have to fund these myself.

[concealer404]

Hrmm... looks like i'm going to have to borrow a tap and die set to figure out what size i need.

The ones at PartsExpress i found before, but i don't think they'll work. Arg. That's what i get for having uncommon speakers i guess. :(

Thanks NJ for the links, that gets me in the right direction. :)

[janmike]

I had to e-mail the manufacturer to get mine.

[MillerLiteScott]

The Parts Express spikes are 6 mm. I use them on my SDA 2B's because I can not swing the Mye Sound spikes. I just through bolted my speakers by drilling through the bottom cap and bottom of the speaker cabinet and using a 60 mm long 6 mm bolt with a washer threaded into the Parts Express supplied t-nuts on the bottom of my speakers. I previously just had the t-nut hammered into the base cap. The difference after through bolting was surprising. Much more refined and powerful bass. Currently my speakers sit on spikes on top of 2" thick blue stone the same dimensions of the speaker which in turn sits on top of carpet over a concrete slab. I plan on ordering more Parts Express spikes to mount into the blue stone or build some 3 1/2" thick maple stands with the spikes also and see which sound the best. Which reminds me I need to order some spikes.

Scott

[concealer404]

Alright, here's the update:

Someone had already spiked these in the past it seems, but i ended up just taking them out and installing these:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-725

Verdict?

HOLY CRAP this is the best mod/tweak/anything i've done to this system yet. The bass tightened up, and there's a lot more "slam," percussiveness, just all around more powerful, even through the whole range. It takes a LOT more volume now before the sound starts to break up.

If you're on the fence about spiking, JUST DO IT. For $7 for two sets, you CANNOT go wrong.

Freddy can vouch for the difference. :)


Also worth mentioning that i now have these installed:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=109-064

They're still burning in, but initial impressions are VERY favorable. These things are monster huge, and the definition and soundstage are phenomenal when compared with the 14g Monster XP that i was using.

[Boomer Tug]

Your post inspired me to install the spikes I received wth my new RTi A9s. I was very hesitant to use them in that the speakers weigh in over 70 lbs. each and the spikes make moving them into position very difficult if not impossible.

I'll have to admit that I am skeptical in your perception that "this is the best mod/tweak/anything I've done to this system yet" comment. But I cannot resist...

[concealer404]

It really is, though... I've heard way more different with these vs. switching preamps and/or interconnects.

[Boomer Tug]

I'm convinced! I'll try the heavy-lifting tomorrow after a good night's sleep. Thanks!

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

Nice! Good tweak for lil' cash! Anyone know where to find just the cap's so that you can run the spike's on a wood floor?

[hearingimpared]

Nice! Good tweak for lil' cash! Anyone know where to find just the cap's so that you can run the spike's on a wood floor?

Brass pads for $4 each.

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

[dorokusai]

Almost every Polk loudspeaker is 1/4"x20....including the new subwoofers.

[concealer404]

After more listening last night, i'm not even thinking about a sub anymore for 2-channel. :D These things are digging like crazy, it's full, it's tight, it slams you in the chest, and i'm completely floored that this wall of sound is coming from some tiny 2-way floorstanders with nothing more than a 6.5 woofer and a tweet.

The downside is that now i'm REALLY wondering what a set of Paradigm Monitor 11s would sound like in here... :D

[packetjones]

So they really make that much of a difference? When i hooked my A5's I did not put them on since it would make the speakers so ahrd to move around with out picking them up completely. I am sooo tempted to put them on now. I guess it is an easy tweak to try.

I never thought about it again, not putting spike on, till i read this post now i feel like i must try it. I will come back with my impressions.

[concealer404]

So they really make that much of a difference? When i hooked my A5's I did not put them on since it would make the speakers so ahrd to move around with out picking them up completely. I am sooo tempted to put them on now. I guess it is an easy tweak to try.

I never thought about it again, not putting spike on, till i read this post now i feel like i must try it. I will come back with my impressions.

ESPECIALLY if they're on carpet, i'd be very surprised if you didn't hear a marked difference.

[sTiLlLeArNiNg]

Brass pads for $4 each.

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

Thank's :)

[concealer404]

Thanks is what?

[Conradicles]

One thing I really like about spikes that is not sound related:

Once you get them set in place, level and exactly where you want them, they will not slide or go anywhere even if bumped on accident. Handy when you got kids!

[dorokusai]

They aren't hard to re-position. You just have to learn the single spiked waltz when you tweak.

[Tony M]

That's a great discription and I've waltzed with alot of big boned speakers in my time.:D

[dorokusai]

Hey now! :D

[MillerLiteScott]

I have to bear hug my speakers to lift them onto the maple blocks that are spiked to the floor through the carpet. You gotta mind your toes when you take them off the blocks. I still hate moving them. Bookies are much easier:D

[Tony M]

I just bear huged my SRS2's to get them off the movers dollies and damn those things are heavy. I did redo the other speakers bottom plate a couple months ago but had my wife help with fliping them.I was medicated also so I didn't feel too much weight put on me then and she was a big help then for sure.

Well, this 135 lb speaker feels like a 300 lb load by yourself.I went to lay it down and about 1" from the floor I let it go. I should have tried to lay one corner down first but I didn't. THWACK (like two magnets slaming together) was the sound I heard and I thought maybe all the magnets would've shifted on the MWers but I don't think so since there no scratching sound pushing on them.

How did Polk audio manufacture these behemoths back then?? WOW

Well the old spike sockets were in realy bad shape like the rest of these speakers stuff has been so I just ordered new spikes with sockets from Parts express and hope my spare brass spikes will fit the sockets.They should.Pics will follow as soon as I get them around Sat.;)

I feel for Ben and his Franken-Polks that he lifted somehow up those stairs. WOW, an amazing feat of strength and determination!

[NJPOLKER]

Tony thats not good!! Pictures please.

[steveinaz]

For additonal tweakage, if you have carpet, place your spiked speakers on a 18" x 18" clay tile. I have my Energy's spiked, then sitting in brass bases on a clay tile. The tiles cost about $3 bucks each at Home Depot, Lowes, etc..

[Tony M]

[QUOTE=concealer404;1219793]
Verdict?

HOLY CRAP this is the best mod/tweak/anything i've done to this system yet. The bass tightened up, and there's a lot more "slam," percussiveness, just all around more powerful, even through the whole range. It takes a LOT more volume now before the sound starts to break up.

If you're on the fence about spiking, JUST DO IT. For $7 for two sets, you CANNOT go wrong.

I have to agree 100% with concealers' descriptions.UNBELIEVABLE...:eek:
I have never heard SADEs' music sound so good except maybe on my RT3000ps.Now I have to relisten to my cd collection again....

I thought they were awsome before and now I'm ashamed I demonstrated these SDA-SRS2s at less than their potential, ASHAMED I AM..:(.

Thanks for the push Jessie...I did it and here are some shots NJPolker.

I took a pic of my wire connector replacements too.
I only had 7 of each kind of brass spikes so I put 4 new ones in front and yes they are the same height.

Also notice the quality Polk audio used compared to the new smaller Parts Express inserts.

I thought I quoted concealers words into a grey block...I've got to practice that alot more!

[bigaudiofanatic]

When I got my infinity's they did not come with spikes. I took the tower speaker to the hardware store and found some bolts that fit in the holes. Than a little later I just put a piece of MDF under the speaker instead of using the spikes.

[Tony M]

Carrying that speaker must have looked funny at the store.
I tell you what, I don't know why spikes help so much except the speaker must not be able to move from the woofers impacts on the air. My speakers were on rollers so that must have been a double faulting negative for the bass.The midrange even sounds cleaner at higher levels now.

My SDAs sound especially amazing now.Really.
Next comes the CAP upgrades.;)

[Krazyz1]

There is a web company called ADONA. Make very large selection of spikes. Multiple lengths , thread pitch, colors ect. Also make some KILLER audio racks.

[packetjones]

There is a web company called ADONA. Make very large selection of spikes. Multiple lengths , thread pitch, colors ect. Also make some KILLER audio racks.

you posted this exact thing in another thread about stands... If you did not have so many posts i would think this was spam. anyways.....

I saw that this thread was bumped up and thought i would comment on adding my spikes. The other night I added the spikes to my A5's and also replaced the jumper with a small piece of speaker wire. Since I did both at the same time I am not sure which had the bigger effect but it definitely was noticeable. Everything sounds a little crisper and a little tighter. I like it.

Are there 3rd party spikes that are better than the ones that came with the speakers? I am sure there are some pricey ones available but this is a rather cheap tweak and do not want to spend much at all. Are the ones that Polk provided adequate?

[dorokusai]

I've had an Adona rack since Paul started his business back in 2003 or so....slackers.

[hearingimpared]

you posted this exact thing in another thread about stands... If you did not have so many posts i would think this was spam. anyways.....

I saw that this thread was bumped up and thought i would comment on adding my spikes. The other night I added the spikes to my A5's and also replaced the jumper with a small piece of speaker wire. Since I did both at the same time I am not sure which had the bigger effect but it definitely was noticeable. Everything sounds a little crisper and a little tighter. I like it.

Are there 3rd party spikes that are better than the ones that came with the speakers? I am sure there are some pricey ones available but this is a rather cheap tweak and do not want to spend much at all. Are the ones that Polk provided adequate?

I these are the best in the business.

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

I use them on my 1.2TLs and know that quite a few others here have used them and have the same opinion.

[allstock]

Alright, I have a question. if the purpose of spikes is to "connect" the speaker to the floor, why would you install spikes, and sit them on top of a section of wood,tile,cement, etc. Would that not defeat the purpose?:confused:

[packetjones]

I these are the best in the business.

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

I use them on my 1.2TLs and know that quite a few others here have used them and have the same opinion.


Just a question about these. Are the say $10 per spike or $10 for one speaker worth (4)? If they are per spike then that would $40 per speaker or $80 for a pair.

Also the shipping seems crazy... are they missing a decimal point?

[packetjones]

I am unable to edit my previous post any longer.

I realised that the pricing was for the speaker stands they make not the spikes.

[hearingimpared]

Just a question about these. Are the say $10 per spike or $10 for one speaker worth (4)? If they are per spike then that would $40 per speaker or $80 for a pair.

Also the shipping seems crazy... are they missing a decimal point?

I saw your edit below but wanted to comment anyway. Brass is very heavy and it's coming for Canada so the shipping costs might be a little higher than you'd expect.

[superjunior]

Alright, I have a question. if the purpose of spikes is to "connect" the speaker to the floor, why would you install spikes, and sit them on top of a section of wood,tile,cement, etc. Would that not defeat the purpose?:confused:

I was hoping someone would have answered this for you as I was wondering the same thing. I'm reluctant to install my spikes as I really don't want holes in my carpet. having them on tiles on the other hand would be fine but is there really a benefit to this approach?

[hearingimpared]

I was hoping someone would have answered this for you as I was wondering the same thing. I'm reluctant to install my spikes as I really don't want holes in my carpet. having them on tiles on the other hand would be fine but is there really a benefit to this approach?

Those holes close up by themselves. I have moved my 1.2 TLs several times and there are no signs of the holes the spikes made.

Yes there is a benefit. They solidly couple the speaker cabinet to the solid surface below the carpet thus taking out the cabinet resonance.

[superjunior]

Those holes close up by themselves. I have moved my 1.2 TLs several times and there are no signs of the holes the spikes made.

Yes there is a benefit. They solidly couple the speaker cabinet to the solid surface below the carpet thus taking out the cabinet resonance.

sounds good. I was thinking tiles or granite would look cool under the spiked speakers but which do you think would sound better, spikes strait to carpet or some kind of base between the two?

[hearingimpared]

sounds good. I was thinking tiles or granite would look cool under the spiked speakers but which do you think would sound better, spikes strait to carpet or some kind of base between the two?

IMHO placing a hard surface over carpet with the spiked speakers on top would still cause the softness of the carpet & mat beneath it to cause resonance. I could be wrong but I think it best to get the speakers coupled to the foundation under the carpet.

[superjunior]

IMHO placing a hard surface over carpet with the spiked speakers on top would still cause the softness of the carpet & mat beneath it to cause resonance. I could be wrong but I think it best to get the speakers coupled to the foundation under the carpet.

that seems to make the most sense
thanks

[F1nut]

Mye Sound spikes. 'Nuff said.

[allstock]

that seems to make the most sense
thanks

+1. I'm gonna spike everything in sight!

[BlueFox]

You guys have a lot to learn about speaker spikes/footers.

This is the place to get educated.

"BRASS FOOTERS: ESSENTIAL FOR GREAT SOUND

Using Mapleshade’s brass footers will transform the sound of each of your stereo components —your speakers, CD/DVD player, amp, receiver, turntable, power conditioner. I guarantee exactly that.

Expect music to sound strikingly more live, more gripping. Listening to Kind Of Blue, I hear deep into Miles’ soulful, subtle, breathy note-bending. Paul Chamber’s bass sounds deeper, more articulated, giving it more real gut impact. Jimmy Cobb’s Gretsch drums are crisper, his cymbals sound brassier and ring more brilliantly.

Here’s the physics: electrical currents, the music signals that drive your speakers, also create unwanted vibrations inside every electronic component and speaker cabinet. A simple experiment I conducted 15 years ago (which you can repeat at home) proves these internal vibes—not the external room vibrations—are the bad actors muddying the music signal. So standard isolating devices like springs, rubber feet, sand, magnetic suspensions, or air bladders don’t help. These products trap the vibes inside the component, exacerbating muddying of the signals, especially in the bass frequencies.

By design, our footers do the opposite. Rigid and massive, they lock the component to the shelf below using single-point contact. That’s the most effective way to drain vibration. Nevertheless, our experiments show that the wrong footer material (or too little mass, or the wrong shape) can reflect distorted vibrations back into the equipment. That’s why improperly designed footers can yield sound that is dulled and lifeless or piercing and shrill. I’ve tested every promising high-tech material: ceramics were too bright; titanium, carbon fiber, stainless steel, aluminum and ebony were relatively dead and smeared. Brass was by far the best: much more dynamic, vibrantly warm and more detailed. Our 30-day moneyback lets you make your own comparisons.

We normally offer unattached footers in sets of three. Using four unattached footers requires shimming the height of one to compensate for the inevitable slight unevenness of the surface below. Using three requires no compensation and there’s no sonic advantage to using four. For threaded footers under very narrow tower speakers, we recommend four only to add stability. Of course, use four when replacing four threaded factory feet."

http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=96

You also need to get your speakers off the floor and onto maple platforms.

"MAPLE STANDS FOR FLOORSTANDING SPEAKERS

Concrete and plywood floors cripple the sound of your speakers. They muddy the bass, smear the midrange, and suck the life out of the treble. In fact, 90% of “room problems” are caused by bad-sounding floors. Instead of spending thousands on room treatments that address the wrong problem, here is a direct, evidence-based cure: drain the speakers’ vibrational energy, not into the problem floor, but into heavy maple bases rigidly mounted on the floor via massive brass feet.

Our 2" or 4" maple bases make a far cleaner sink for receiving and dissipating the speakers’ vibrations than flimsy, resonant ½" plywood flooring or, worst of all, concrete. Instead of accepting these vibrations, concrete, tile, and stone strongly reflect back almost all the vibrational energy out of phase and distorted. Equally toxic to good speaker sound are modern “engineered” wood floors, particularly floating floors that rest on rubbery insulating sheets. Carpet over concrete or plywood just worsens the situation.

To double the sonic upgrade of our maple stands, replace your speakers’ spikes or composite feet with our much more rigid brass Threaded Heavyfeet, Triplepoints, MegaMounts or Threaded Megafeet."

http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=62

[allstock]

You guys have a lot to learn about speaker spikes/footers.

This is the place to get educated.

"BRASS FOOTERS: ESSENTIAL FOR GREAT SOUND

Using Mapleshade’s brass footers will transform the sound of each of your stereo components —your speakers, CD/DVD player, amp, receiver, turntable, power conditioner. I guarantee exactly that.

Expect music to sound strikingly more live, more gripping. Listening to Kind Of Blue, I hear deep into Miles’ soulful, subtle, breathy note-bending. Paul Chamber’s bass sounds deeper, more articulated, giving it more real gut impact. Jimmy Cobb’s Gretsch drums are crisper, his cymbals sound brassier and ring more brilliantly.

Here’s the physics: electrical currents, the music signals that drive your speakers, also create unwanted vibrations inside every electronic component and speaker cabinet. A simple experiment I conducted 15 years ago (which you can repeat at home) proves these internal vibes—not the external room vibrations—are the bad actors muddying the music signal. So standard isolating devices like springs, rubber feet, sand, magnetic suspensions, or air bladders don’t help. These products trap the vibes inside the component, exacerbating muddying of the signals, especially in the bass frequencies.

By design, our footers do the opposite. Rigid and massive, they lock the component to the shelf below using single-point contact. That’s the most effective way to drain vibration. Nevertheless, our experiments show that the wrong footer material (or too little mass, or the wrong shape) can reflect distorted vibrations back into the equipment. That’s why improperly designed footers can yield sound that is dulled and lifeless or piercing and shrill. I’ve tested every promising high-tech material: ceramics were too bright; titanium, carbon fiber, stainless steel, aluminum and ebony were relatively dead and smeared. Brass was by far the best: much more dynamic, vibrantly warm and more detailed. Our 30-day moneyback lets you make your own comparisons.

We normally offer unattached footers in sets of three. Using four unattached footers requires shimming the height of one to compensate for the inevitable slight unevenness of the surface below. Using three requires no compensation and there’s no sonic advantage to using four. For threaded footers under very narrow tower speakers, we recommend four only to add stability. Of course, use four when replacing four threaded factory feet."

http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=96

You also need to get your speakers off the floor and onto maple platforms.

"MAPLE STANDS FOR FLOORSTANDING SPEAKERS

Concrete and plywood floors cripple the sound of your speakers. They muddy the bass, smear the midrange, and suck the life out of the treble. In fact, 90% of “room problems” are caused by bad-sounding floors. Instead of spending thousands on room treatments that address the wrong problem, here is a direct, evidence-based cure: drain the speakers’ vibrational energy, not into the problem floor, but into heavy maple bases rigidly mounted on the floor via massive brass feet.

Our 2" or 4" maple bases make a far cleaner sink for receiving and dissipating the speakers’ vibrations than flimsy, resonant ½" plywood flooring or, worst of all, concrete. Instead of accepting these vibrations, concrete, tile, and stone strongly reflect back almost all the vibrational energy out of phase and distorted. Equally toxic to good speaker sound are modern “engineered” wood floors, particularly floating floors that rest on rubbery insulating sheets. Carpet over concrete or plywood just worsens the situation.

To double the sonic upgrade of our maple stands, replace your speakers’ spikes or composite feet with our much more rigid brass Threaded Heavyfeet, Triplepoints, MegaMounts or Threaded Megafeet."

http://shop.mapleshadestore.com/departments.asp?dept=62

Alrighty then, I 'll go buy some brass bar stock and get the lathe a'spinnin. I've got a huge maple in the back that is kind of an eyesore too, off to the mill it goes. I'll try most any tweak, but the prices they want for "special" brass feet (sorry, "footers") is kind of crazy. I'm sure my 1.2tl's don't need the extra weight of brass under them to couple them to whatever is under them. 1/4"-20 threaded rod chucked in the drill and ground to a spike against the bench grinder works just fine. Maybe with the leftover brass I'll start sitting it on top of my amps to deaden those dreaded "electrical current vibrations" that are muddying up my sound.



BTW, I wasn't kidding about the brass bar stock, or the maple tree...

[hearingimpared]

I've had those footers from Mapleshade on my hit list for quite awhile. They are just too damned expensive right now for me to get them under all my gear. I'm also interested in the ones that go on top of the gear too.

[superjunior]

wish I had the space in my rack to give those a try - too tight as it is

[BlueFox]

I've had those footers from Mapleshade on my hit list for quite awhile. They are just too damned expensive right now for me to get them under all my gear. I'm also interested in the ones that go on top of the gear too.

True. I have Micropoints under the SACD/CD, DAC, Pre-amp, and power conditioner, and TriplePoints under both amps. Standalone brass weights are on the Wadia dock, and the upgraded Wadia power supply. The speakers are on 4" maple platforms, but I am still using stock speaker spikes. However, the spikes rest in brass Sonic Saucers from Audio Advisor.

Just doing that was an expense, but I really feel it made a positive effect. The last set of footers I added was to the power conditioner, and I swear it seemed as if the treble became more pronounced. Not bright, just more detailed.

[Conradicles]

This may sound silly but I put some ceramic cones Russman sent me under my PS3 and I swear the picture looks sharper.

[bikerboy]

Hi,
I have a concrete floor without carpet. So I made 3 wood blocks for each speaker and removed the mdf base on the sda-2a speakers. Made a huge difference in impact and blackness of the sound. I will have to try the spikes, but I dont think the 2.3s that I have now can use them. I will have to look. I know I need to reattach the base plate because they are loose. Would I be able to tighten the base plate if I remove the passive driver?

[hearingimpared]

Hi,
I have a concrete floor without carpet. So I made 3 wood blocks for each speaker and removed the mdf base on the sda-2a speakers. Made a huge difference in impact and blackness of the sound. I will have to try the spikes, but I dont think the 2.3s that I have now can use them. I will have to look. I know I need to reattach the base plate because they are loose. Would I be able to tighten the base plate if I remove the passive driver?

Jeff, if you are referring to the passive radiator at the bottom of the cabinet, then the answer would be yes. Just remove the PR and you will be able to get your whole hand and arm into the cabinet.

When you do get around to spiking your speakers, the Mye Sound points are the way to go. You could use the smaller spikes on the 2As and the larger spikes on the 2.3s. Make sure you tell Grant you are a member of this forum.

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

[hearingimpared]

This may sound silly but I put some ceramic cones Russman sent me under my PS3 and I swear the picture looks sharper.

Doesn't sound silly at all. I use Black Diamond Racing cones, made from carbon fiber, under my turntable and the results are nothing short of stunning.

[adam2434]

You guys have inspired me to spike my LS90s. I'm currently using the stock round feet.

These should thread right in to the existing inserts, being 1/4-20, right?

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_121&products_id=1047

They seem to be a pretty good deal for those that don't want to spend $10 per spike.

[RyanJoz]

www.oregondv.com has spikes of different thread patterns available. I got the 1.375" spikes because they fit in the holes in my a9's (with a little effort).

[hearingimpared]

You guys have inspired me to spike my LS90s. I'm currently using the stock round feet.

These should thread right in to the existing inserts, being 1/4-20, right?

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=404_121&products_id=1047

They seem to be a pretty good deal for those that don't want to spend $10 per spike.

Not to burst your bubble but those look a little flimsy and not much mass but for the price go for it they may present a surprise.

Keep us posted.:)

[dorokusai]

They're the same spikes you can get from PE or OregonDV.

[comfortablycurt]

Hey everyone...could someone advise me as to which spikes I'd need for my SDA 2A's?

I'm going to go with everyones recommendations regarding the Mye Sound spikes...I just need to know which ones to get. I know I need to 1/4-20 thread pattern.

Which ones do I need...?

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

The big spikes(second from right) or the little spikes(second from left)? I'm guessing the smaller ones...?

[F1nut]

The big ones.

[comfortablycurt]

The big ones.

Damn...it's gotta be the more expensive ones, doesn't it?:p...lol

Thanks for the info, Jesse.

[hearingimpared]

Damn...it's gotta be the more expensive ones, doesn't it?:p...lol

Thanks for the info, Jesse.

Curt Jesse's right, get the big ones. I put, what was the mediums ones, back four years, on my 1.2TLs and I'm was sorry I did. I got the bigguns and never looked back.

I know the mine are biigger than yours :D but the medium ones are no longer availible so don't cut yourself shot.

[comfortablycurt]

Alright...I'll definitely be going with the bigger ones.

I'm gonna have to modify my cabinets a little bit to accommodate the spikes. My 2A's have the pedestals on the bottoms, so I'm going to have to make some blocks to put in the insides of the corners of the pedestals. Anyone have any tips/advice on the best way to go about that?

Jesse-I believe you gave me some advice on that issue in another thread once, but I can't recall what thread that was in...What would be the best way to go about attaching the blocks to the corners? Should I attach the blocks, and then drill all the way through the blocks, and through the bottom of the cabinets for the inserts? Or should I just use some kind of T-nut or insert nut in the block itself, and not drill through the bottom of the actual cabinet?

[Hawkeye]

Curt. hope you don't mind I piggy back here. Small or big for the SRS2?

Gordon

[hearingimpared]

Curt. hope you don't mind I piggy back here. Small or big for the SRS2?

Gordon

Gordo, Grant doesn't offer the middle size any longer so I would go with the big as you will find the smaller ones won't hold the weight as well.

[george daniel]

here you go,,even has a little snippet regarding Polk

https://myesound.com/Points_n_pads.html

[keithpgdrb]

I sent polk customer service a note about spikes for my RT11TL's, and here is what I got..

"Good-morning,
We have the Spike Kits (RF1400-1) at $2.65 + S&H per Kit.
You can order with a Credit Card or Money Order.
Please contact us at the address listed below. Most States require that you pay Sales Taxes.

Thank You,
Helen Yarbor

polkaudio
Customer Service Rep / Parts
Baltimore, MD. 21215
1-800-377-7655
Fax- 410-764-5470"

I dont know what kind they are, but I might just order them and see.

[dorokusai]

They are standard, straight steel spikes with a locknut.

[mak99]

Any model RTi A5/A7/A9 owners have these Soundocity outriggers (http://www.oregondv.com/Outriggers.htm) installed?

I'm very interested in these for my day-old A7's. Funny thing is before stumbling on this thread last night (and Soundocity website), I basically had this exact product pictured in my mind as a better way to level the speaker in lieu of the factory spikes.

For those of you that do own this product, was it worth the additional cost?

Did you get equal-length bars for both the front and back, or did you use a longer bar for the front, due to the curvature of the cabinet?

Thanks in advance - this does look like a well-designed product...