View Full Version : SRS-2's and bass
05-01-2003, 02:36 AM
I've been rediscovering my SRS-2s. I bought them some new Monster Z2 cables and have fallen in love all over again. The sound field has been greatly improved, but the bass still seems a little muddy.
I've heard something about a "Bass Brace" for the SRS systems, but have no idea what that is or if it was designed for these speakers. Also, would carpet spikes help? If so what type should I get and where can I find them? Are there any other tweaks any one knows of that might help?
Thanks in advance for any information.
05-01-2003, 02:51 AM
To the best of my knowledge the "Bass Brace" was not available for your SRS's, however adding spikes will get you the same results. There are all kinds of tweaks, upgrade the crossovers, install Cardas binding posts, upgrade to MIT's higher-end cables, including IC's and upgrade your amps/sources. Running a dedicated line to your power amp/sources will help clean up the bass too.
SDA SRS 1.2
05-01-2003, 09:08 AM
Originally posted by F1nut
Running a dedicated line to your power amp/sources will help clean up the bass too.
I completely agree with that - it does make a difference! :)
05-01-2003, 08:32 PM
The MIT's look awesome...but...I don't think I'll be able to get any new speaker wire for a while as the wife just bought me the Z2's last weekend. Then after she heard how much they changed the sound she bought one for the center channel and let me pick up a CS400i. She would have let me get the CS1000i but there are none to be found. She also is letting me acquire a pair of either F/X1000 or LSiFX surrounds. Any ideas on which of these would go better with the SRS-2s?
Man, I should have moved here to Stepford a long time ago!!
Anyway, the spikes will be the fastest and easiest upgrade at the moment. Any advice on what I should look for here?
I'm also interested in getting the Cardas binding posts. Are they fairly easy to install?
Attempting to upgrade the X-over scares me a bit. I've never really done anything like that before and I would hate to completely screw up my speakers now that I'm able to play with them again. Is this as difficult and dangerous as I'm thinking it may be?
I'm sorry for the rapid secession of questions, but Iím just so excited to be back in the hobby again!!!
Thanks for the help.
05-01-2003, 09:25 PM
I'm not real sure who has the best spikes, but I would think something with a lock nut on them would be good. The binding post swap isn't hard, I'll post a step by step with photos in the next couple of days. If you're not sure about the xover upgrade, it can be done by a good hi-fi shop. MIT cables are SWEET, but I understand where you coming from on that one. If I had to put this into a do first list, I'd get the spikes, run a dedicated line and then upgrade the posts.
Nice to hear you're juiced up on audio again. :D
05-02-2003, 04:40 PM
The Cardas CCGR short and the Quad-Eutectic Solder are on the way.
My "OLD" wife came back when I mentioned the dedicated line. "YOU ARE TAKING THIS WAY TO F***ING FAR!!!" Oh well <heavy sigh> I'll just have to get it installed when shes away on a business trip. :D
05-02-2003, 05:06 PM
Ok, I'll get something up soon.
Good idea about the business trip, the dedicated line will make a big difference.
05-02-2003, 06:28 PM
Thanks F1nut. I'm excited to get those installed.
I just got off the phone with Polk Customer Support, the first time I've ever called them in the 17 years I've had my speakers, and have to say they were supper freindly. They have 2 sets of spikes being sent to me for the ungodly price of $4.75 including tax and shipping!!!!
Now I'm just waitin' for the postman!
05-02-2003, 07:02 PM
HOW MUCH??? :lol:
Polk's customer service is second to none.
05-06-2003, 01:52 AM
Ok, here's the step by step.
Philips head screwdriver
Wood chisel or razor knife
Small hand files
Hot glue gun
Solder gun 150/230 watt (25 or 30 watt will not be enough)
Start with removing the four screws that hold on the binding post plate. On mine all the wires are connected to the crossover with a quick connect, so I reached in from the binding plate hole and disconnected it. Yours may be different, but you'll figure that out.
You have to remove the old hot glue material from the back of the plate, I did this with a sharp wood chisel by carefully prying around the edges and then pulling the stuff off a little at a time. Next, be sure to make a diagram of what wire goes where. Remove the nuts from the posts and remove the wires, push out the posts.
See photos 1 & 2
05-06-2003, 02:04 AM
The new posts are larger and have a seat, so I used a sharp point to trace the outline of the base (seat end) on the plastic face of the plate over the exsisting holes. Then I used the Dremel to rough out the hole, being very careful not to round out the flat sides of the hole. I then finished the hole shape with a couple of miniature hand files. The posts need to fit tight, so go slow. Next, on the wires are pieces of colored tape, move them away from the ends of the wires. Cut off the exsisting connectors and strip about 1/2 inch off the ends, gently twist the exposed wire.
See photo 3
Edit: This is after the holes have been routed and filed.
05-06-2003, 02:28 AM
I forgot to mention that you will need to buy some rubber washers with a 5/16th inside dia. hole (a good hardware store will have them) because the supplied white washer is not thick enough. Ok, install the new posts with the rubber washers (I used two per post) and the white washer, then the nut. Do not over tighten the nut. Solder the wires to the end of the post, being careful not to overheat the posts as this could melt the holes in the plastic plate. Do not move the wire as the joint cools (blow on it to cool it quicker) which should be a matter of 15 seconds or so. After you have finished soldering all the wires, check them all for a good joint. A good joint should be smooth and shiny. Place the plate face down and cover everything with fresh hot glue. Re-install and that's it.
You will note the the new posts do not have color markings on them (red & black) so I bought some vinyl pinstripe tape at a hobby shop and wrapped some of that around the posts for a professional finished look. Why Cardas doesn't do something like that is beyond me.
If you've got any questions, let me know, otherwise have fun and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Edit: Remove the gold part of the post when soldering, there will be less metal to heat up.
See photos 4 & 5
05-06-2003, 09:03 AM
Finally got around to that project Buddy??? :lol:
Now THAT is a set of binding posts!
05-06-2003, 12:19 PM
Yeah, one down and too many more to come.......
05-06-2003, 12:39 PM
I can't wait until the post actualy get here. Should be later this week. When I get home tonight I'll remove one of the plates and see what's inside.
I only have one set of binding posts per speaker so it should be a little easier.
Thanks for all the help and the photos!!!
05-07-2003, 06:09 AM
Fantastic series of Posts bro... going right into my reference files. It's posts like these that make this place really work.
05-13-2003, 07:34 PM
The binding posts arrived last Friday. I was wanting to get them installed last weekend but...after removing the binding post plate I found my system looks nothing like yours. It looks like the x-over is attached to the back of the plate. I'll send pictures later this week.
05-17-2003, 04:20 AM
Ok, I'll be on the lookout.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.1.6 Copyright © 2013 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.