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HBombToo
05-02-2003, 10:36 AM
some very interesting points.
enjoy!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=254702

HBomb
RuSsMaN
05-02-2003, 11:44 AM
Good read.
madmax
05-02-2003, 01:54 PM
Interesting. From what I hear most subs tend to "pop" for a while when driven hard until broken in. Then they no longer do it.
madmax
HBombToo
05-02-2003, 02:07 PM
Originally posted by madmax001
Interesting. From what I hear most subs tend to "pop" for a while when driven hard until broken in. Then they no longer do it.
madmax

I think your right but in my case they just blow up!!!:lol:

:confused:

HBomb
nadams
05-02-2003, 02:17 PM
I buy pre broken-in speakers :lol:

However, when I replaced my blown SL1000 tweeters with Peerless replicas, I found that for the first week or so, they seemed to crackle and give off static at loud levels. Now they're fine.... a result of break-in?

I bought a pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch 8" woofers to replace the woofers in my MAs, and they come with a little note that suggests that you refrain from playing the woofers at loud levels for the first 20 or so hours of playback time, in order to give the speakers a chance to break in.... are they just blowing smoke? Who is to say.... I never play 'em that loud anyway...

nadams
madmax
05-02-2003, 02:43 PM
Originally posted by HBombToo


I think your right but in my case they just blow up!!!:lol:

:confused:

HBomb

Maybe you didn't give them enough time to pop? I've heard that car subs need to break in before supplying too much juice.
madmax:confused:
RuSsMaN
05-02-2003, 04:15 PM
Originally posted by nadams
....and they come with a little note that suggests that you refrain from playing the woofers at loud levels for the first 20 or so hours of playback time, in order to give the speakers a chance to break in.... are they just blowing smoke?

Polk recommends this also on their Momo subs.

Cheers,
Russ
Dr. Spec
05-02-2003, 04:33 PM
Henry - I would avoid any FR sweeps that exceed 80 dB. It is very easy to fry a VC on a sweep, especially when the SPL level exceeds 100 dB for extended periods of time.
Dr. Spec
05-02-2003, 04:47 PM
Also, I just recently read that careful cross torquing of the wood screws is extremely important to prevent warping the driver basket and misaligning the VC in the gap. Do them all a little at a time and torque them all very evenly.

Doc
HBombToo
05-02-2003, 04:50 PM
Good thoughts... I brought a new Fluke from work and I'll let ya know the impedances later on the new verse old.

Regards
HBomb
RuSsMaN
05-02-2003, 04:51 PM
Remember not to drink until you are DONE swapping the drivers Henry.
HBombToo
05-02-2003, 04:53 PM
Yes Sir. I promise!

Evil Twin after a quiet listen.

HBomb
burdette
05-02-2003, 05:27 PM
Originally posted by Dr. Spec
Also, I just recently read that careful cross torquing of the wood screws is extremely important to prevent warping the driver basket and misaligning the VC in the gap. Do them all a little at a time and torque them all very evenly.

Doc

I agree with that for a stamped/steel basket. And I still did it for a cast basket, primarily to ensure that the flange sealed evenly and completely all the way around. But uneven tightness shouldn't create a problem with a cast basket. That stability is sort of the point. Hold a good solid cast basket in your hands, and it is apparent that having applied uneven torque to the bolts would NOT stress/distort the basket. Perhaps the head of the bolt would break off or you'd have an uneven seal around the driver... but it ain't gonna bend.