So ya done yet?:lol:
They did a real nice job of anodizing and machining that front panel.
Are we there yet? NO!:cheesygrin: I wish..... I was gonna pack it up and send it to you for final assembly.:smile:
Thanks for the kind words. Yes they did a great job. Even the spellin' is correct. I'll start drilling and tapping holes in the back of the front panel this weekend to mount the Arduino board/shield and IR receiver. Must remember to use depth stop on drill press......
I ordered a chunk of aluminum angle to mount the toroidal farm on. One problem, on back panel (painted steel) they punched out for an IEC socket and it is right in line where my tranny mount will sit (like 15'' / 381mm long...lol). Might have to patch and relocate the IEC line filter/fuse/switch assembly I am using. It is near 3" long.
Damn that looks good! You have a really nice Pear!:twisted:
I am making some progress.....I've moved the two small power supplies since this pic, but the config is similar. I hope to have Dana do the front panel color fill this weekend.:cheesygrin:
I am happy to say I am mostly finished with my Twisted Pear Buffalo III dual mono build! I had to take an existing light picture of the front panel in an attempt to show what it looks like in real life. The flash tends to really lighten the color fill in the front panel engraving.
I am waiting for an Amanero USB/I2S module, and Digi Key mis-packaged the incorrect value resistors for the AES/EBU input. The USB input is just a hole stuffer for now. I plan to redo the rear panel labeling when I install the USB module. I am thinking up high near the Teleporter to keep the I2S wires short. An OTTO II for switching between the two could be added. I tried to think modular in that the rear panel, front panel and toroidal farm can be easily removed if the need arises.
I drilled and tapped holes in the front panel to mount the Arduino board (pictured with Corpius's shield) and IR receiver board. I also drilled a cavity for the IR receiver to get it closer to the face of front panel and give me greater off axis remote control. Somehow I removed that cavity during the numerous changes made to the design in front panel express. It would have been nice to have more or all of that work done by the CNC machine. I was unsure of where the Arduino would be mounted until I had a roughed in assembly.
I am glad I went with the Hi Fi 2000 drilled base option. It made assembly easy and really stiffened up the chassis. After getting the components positioned and wired, I added the "walls" of the enclosure. My heavy toroidal farm wouldn't do well installed on just the lower panel. A big plus, at least two holes of every board lined up with pre-drilled holes in the base. Andrea at Modushop was very helpful and nice to deal with while I was finalizing the front panel machining.
Due to my inside out assembly procedure and the toroidal farm blocking access, I stud mounted the front panel. There is just enough room to swing a small box-open end wrench to tighten the nuts, although getting a washer and nut on is tricky. A short USB cable is connected to a Neutrik D panel USB connector at right front side of enclosure so the Arduino can be programmed without removing the cover.
You might notice two holes drilled in the rotary encoder knob cavity. This was a last minute addition for a future project. Even though my LCD will display 'lock,' I'll add LED's for lock and mute behind the knob like I saw some folks do. I'll get a different color for mute and use my original green one for the lock.
The Testors paint fill of the front panel went well. They didn't have the exact shade of green to match the Twisted Pear logo, se we mixed some white in to lighten it. I went with Testors as ModWright used it and it still looks good after a few years. It is very hard to stay "in the lines" of the engraving with the color fill even with a tiny artists brush. I found a new bondo spreader used as a squeegee moved most of the excess paint to an area where it could be wiped off the panel without removing paint from the engraved areas. After allowing the color to set a few minutes, I used cotton swaps moistened with thinner to get the smeared paint off. It leaves a film that can be easily removed once the paint dries. I followed up with an old dish towel wrapped tightly around the spreader moistened with thinner. It was a smooth tightly woven towel (not fuzzy). The plastic spreader did no harm to the front panel.
The toroidal farm mount is thick 1/4" (6.35mm) aluminum. It started out as a 4" x 4" angle I cut down to 4" x 1.75." The cut edge and radisued corners were smoothed with a DA (double action) sander. I drilled and tapped threads in the mount to make it easy to install to the base. I couldn't locate any rubber grommets for that thickness material to insulate the wire pass through holes. A trip to the local Ace Hardware for some metric screws got me looking thought their hardware offerings and I found some snap in plastic bushings. They had an assortment of small to larger sizes. I used 3/8" (9.5mm) for the secondary wiring and 1/2" (12.7mm) for the mains power. They were 3/8" (9.5mm) long so they extend through the thick transformer bracket.
Some folks have asked me why so many toroidals. Well I had the Twisted Pear LCDPS and LCDPS linear power supplies from early testing with the single BIII build. (Sounded better to me with the shunting power supplies). I used the + side of the LCBPS to power the Arduino/LCD. One side of the LCDPS powers the Sidecar/4 channel input board and the other side powers Teleporter and future USB module. I could lose one 9v tranny and split the secondaries on the remaining one to power the two Placid HD's, but then I lose galvanic isolaton beyween those two supplies. It was so quiet even with the rats nest wiring in the friendly case that I did not want to risk possibly adding any. The two BP (bi-polar) power supplies require both secondaries for the - and + rails.
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Absolutely stunning DIY effort! WOW! The aesthetics are first class.
Did you sniff any of that paint thinner? LOL! Give the green color a little sparkle LOL!
Great job Rich!
That green matches your night vision goggles, Carl. :wink:
Awesome job, Rich! Now give it to me and build yourself one. :mrgreen:
Thanks Carl and Mike!
LOL I had a straw and deep inhaled Carl! Enamel gives a better buzz than latex water based! (Actually the Testors thinner stinks awful, mineral spirits are more better). Ed gets the assist for pushing me into this dual build.
Mike, the shipping would break us, its too heavy! (And no tubes).:eek::cheesygrin:
Some of my buds are beating me up about the blue LCD so a green one will be added sooner than later.
WOW just WOW !!! Beautiful job.
I have a green with negative backlight on order. Like $12 to get rid of the clash.:cheesygrin: It will be a drop in swap.
Much better with the green.
WOW everything looks Great!
Can you make the display out of Nixie Tubes?
Top notch, Rich!
Really digging the transformer set up/wiring. Very nicely executed; that would have been a perfect scenario for a rat's nest. Any reason to be concerned about noise or hum from the torroids with them so close together?
Incredible....Absolutely Incredible work and execution.
Now it's complete......Enjoy the Music!
I've seen some Buffalo builds where they actually stacked toroidals. They claim Avel gave their blessing to stacking saying it was OK.
I used Teflon insulated wire to extend the secondary wiring and maintained color code. (Teflon doesn't shrink back when heated). I used red zip ties to ID the 30VA tranny wiring and blue ties for the 15VA's. All AC wiring is twisted. Extension splices soldered and shrink tubed, all connection ends tinned. Mains power enters through a Shurter filter/fused/switch IEC module. I also used Teflon insulated wire to connect power supplies to boards and tinned the ends.
Rich, break out the tunes! Spanky and Our Gang, The Association, Blue Cheer, Rick James, some Cher, Barry Manilow, Vanilla Fudge, Moby Grape, Manilli Vanelii the killer sound from these artists will be worth all your hard work! Spank on! :twisted:
Hey Carl! We busted some moves to the KLF too! What Time Is Love? This sounds great at hearing loss levels!:cheesygrin:
Right now......right now.......right now its time to...... kick out the jams m#%*f$##$s! :cheesygrin:
The Milk's gone bad!