F1nut is correct.
F1nut is correct.
Wow Kudo's to Ken and Polk.
For the record this thread is alive and well over at Emo.
Lots of help offered for Blindsay.
Pointing him here to have upgraded crossover work done.
I have had posts removed from here so..
Also an amp would really have to mess up to send DC voltage to a speaker
I posted this in 3 places. im not surprised that on the polk forums most people blame the amp, on emotiva I got a mix of the amp and the speaker and on a neutral forum I got a mix of the amp and speaker.
Are the speakers new?
Then take them back to where you bought them and get another set.
How old is the mono block?
But the emo is used.
This from the guy that sold him the amps,One of the problems with his theory is that the issue occured as soon as the amp was turned on (resulted in a loud howling noise thru the speaker in question) and the AVR volume level was -50dB. This indicates excessive DC voltage from the amp.Quote:
My take on this is that the LSi crossover went kaboom with the current the UPA's can give. This likely shorted the tweeter or sent a strong pulse to it and blew it. I think the low impedance of the LSi minus the tweeter probably faced the amp with a now sub 1 ohm impedance which is what smoked the amp.
Some there have mentioned a problem with the LSi crossovers. Well, the only problem with the crossovers is an under valued resistor, which can cook when an amp is pushed to the point of clipping, which was obviously not the case here. Furthermore, if the resistor cooked from a clipped signal it would not cause the amp to blow. Therefore, the amp was defective and caused the speaker damage.
The difference and it is a BIG difference is that none of your posts were deleted because you were being critical of Polk products or you posted photos of other products. No, your posts were deleted because they were troll type posts and/or flat out asinine.Quote:
I have had posts removed from here so..
The LSi15 has a MINIMUM impedance of 3ohms, not 1.
But since the tweeter is capacitively coupled it should not see the excessive DC ,however the woofer voicecoil would take a direct hit.
Has it been determined what parts in the crossover and or if the tweeeter is actually nuked?
Polk has already shipped him new parts. You can't beat their customer service.
That's a good point, so the amp just sent a distorted signal to the speaker taking out the tweeter and high frequency section of the crossover.Quote:
But since the tweeter is capacitively coupled it should not see the excessive DC
1. Sorry about getting pissy with you the other day, I was just in a bad mood as I was happy to finally get everything hooked up and then boom. I also was a little irked being told they weren't going to help me even before I spoke to them. Glad it worked out in the end though.
2. Yes the parts are on the way, I have a slight concern about them being the correct part as it was referred to my "speakers" are on the way (rather than speaker + crossover) so hopefully that was just a miss type. Emotiva has received the bad amp and hopefully its getting fixed as we speak. Crossover is a bit of a pain to replace but its far better than trying to send back the entire speaker.
edit: lied I had a third
Since I have to have the woofer out anyways, do you think the woofer upgrade that people do is really worth it, I figure I might do it since I have it out anyways
1. We're good. I can be a bit too blunt, so sorry about that.
2. Guess you'll find out soon enough....LOL
3. I have no personal experience with that mod, but from everything I've read here it is well worth it.
Since the new crossover and tweeter are on the way I took the time to finish pulling the old crossover out, that black sticky crap was annoying lol, especially since I remember reading I need to salvage that for the reinstall of the new one.
Yes, the woofer upgrade is worth it.
Anyone have a moment to assist me troubleshoot what actually died in the crossover? I heard from Emotiva the amp is on the bench working without issue :/ that aside I am curious now what exactly died on the crossover. I have my trusty multimeter with me, set it to ohms and the tweeter unsurprisingly reads nothing.
Hooked up one end of the multimeter to the negative terminal on the crossover (where I would attach the speaker cable) and the other end of it to the negative cable that would connect to the tweeter. I get a reading on the multimeter of approx. .2ohm. When I switch over to the positive terminal and then the positive speaker lead I get no reading at all.
So it sounds like somewhere if I trace the route of the positive connecting I will find the break and then whats wrong
something does seem a bit odd though. if I hook to positive at the terminal and then woofer - I get a reading :neutral:
edit: I set the multimeter to open/short and it beeps if there is a short (which I want in this case) hooked to the positive terminal of the terminal and then with the other end touch it to every single other connection. Only Woofer negative makes a connection
let me try to organize this more clearly
With one end of the multimeter In the negative speaker terminal I get a tone (indicating a connection) with the other end in
moving the multimeter to the positive speaker terminal I get a tone only on
I started tracing it and confirmed the resistor along the tweeter is dead but it doesn't explain the other weird readings, or does it?
Here's the schematic, http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/show...l=1#post434888
That seems odd considering the smell coming from it and what you say happened.Quote:
I heard from Emotiva the amp is on the bench working without issue
And yes I am a little discouraged about the amp. when the incident occurred I put each upa-1 in a separate room and I had my roommate and one of my friends who was there smell each amp and it was def. this one and the smell stuck with it for a long time.
Edit: hmm maybe I should have become an electrical engineer instead of a computer science major lol, I understand bits and pieces of that schematic but not enough to aid me in finding the problem lol
it does look like that dead resistor for the tweeter "r1" should have no effect on the rest of the drivers though so im guessing if I keep looking something else is dead