A DIY subwoofer may be a solid option, but if this one can blend in to my speakers without standing out, I'll be happy.
If it stands out, it's not set up right.
A SPL meter and test tones is one way to get it done, but kind of archaic compared to this: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=390-792
It will be crossed very low, 50Hz-60Hz maybe, so nothing wrong with that set-up. Even though bass frequencies can't give our ears directional ques, I still don't prefer the idea of a speaker cone firing straight into the carpet; but I'm weird...
Did he ever mention what kind of crossover slopes he used, as time alignment is generally only beneficial to shallow slopes or the goal is transient perfect crossovers(something I now strive for).
No but I'll shoot him an email and see what he remembers. Good thinking!
Regardless if it's functional or not, the time aligned baffle does look cool.
The trick is to get it high enough off the carpet, I'd say at least 2 inches and it should be spiked.Quote:
I still don't prefer the idea of a speaker cone firing straight into the carpet;
You said it. :twisted:Quote:
but I'm weird...
Details I received yesterday on the crossover design for these three-way, four driver, Dayton Audio Reference speakers.
As I recall from memory, the woofers are wired in parallel in 2nd order (12db electrical) crossing at 300hz; low frequency response of woofers based on the box volume is around 55 hz at f3. The midrange is crossed at 300 and 1600 third order 18db to minimize ringing and beaming with the aluminum midbass, and the tweeter is crossed at 1600 fourth order (24db) with a LRC Leg in parallel to suppress the rise at around 7k hz. Physical time alignment was based on the sizes of the drivers, 15 degree tilting baffle was a sufficient compensation.
The 55Hz woofer response sounds right based on my listening over the last week. The speakers obviously don't go very low, but what bass they do has sounds very good and natural. After playing the with subwoofer last night, I found I can't cross it too much higher than 60Hz because you very quickly hear the competing woofers. More testing to come this weekend...
Sealed woofers tuned to a Q(tc) of .7 roll off @ 12db, opposed to ported cabinet's 24db per octave. Depending on placement and your room size, once you add in room gain, you may not be missing much at all. What you may be hearing now is flatter bass resonse instead of a booted bottom end. But in case you still crave more, another advantage of sealed designs is that they are easier to integrate with subs.
I was hoping for a little room gain from the woofers, especially with the opposed woofers, but the proximity required to the rear walls for decent gains had an adverse effect on sound quality and sound stage. At the point where distance from the back wall, distance from the side wall, and toe-in sounded the best (so far anyway), the bass response was not significantly boosted by the room. I do feel like I'm missing the bottom of the frequency range for listening to music (stand-up bass, organ, symphony), but my reference is corner horn-loaded 15" woofers, so I clearly need to adjust my expectations. :rolleyes:
With the need for more current, I'm going to check out a Carver A-500x which can deliver 400wpc into my 4 ohm speakers; stable to 2 ohms and 750wpc. The amp looks like the last of the real Carver designs with classic VU meters and THX certification. Hopefully the amp will wake-up the bass in my speakers a little more, and be a quality pick overall.
Since they are simply set knobs used during the HT calibration process, I would adjust them all the way open (I would assume would be the best option) then let them be. I'll make sure to check them for damage when I look at the amp as well.
Mike was awesome and ran calculations for me based on these Dayton Audio Reference speakers and the specifics of my room. The bass response looks better than I think they sound, but they also have had very limited power, so more testing and tweaking is necessary.
Black line is the naked speaker, the blue line is the added room gain.
The guy was moving and had his system apart, so I only got to power on the A500x tonight and toggle the VU meters. Everything seemed to work well, so I couldn't pass it for $200. :) I'll hook it up with a passive preamp tomorrow and see what I have!
That's what I thought. I originally passed on the deal because I didn't want a Carver amp, but it figured it was worth trying for the money. No matter what, it is a great looking amp.
Looks pretty, hows it sound :smile:.
BTW I envy you living up in Carver country where the Carver amps grow on trees :smile:
Haven't hook it up yet, just snapped that picture last night when I brought it home and plugged it in. Tonight I'll get everything configured, and do some testing.
98109, and I don't mind doing some local dealing for trusted Polkies.
There is a local Classe CA-200 amp I'm eyeing...