Is yours still singing?
Mine is still singing but the sibilance is definitely an undesireable change. I am wondering at this point if the adjustment screw on U100 is broken since turning it either way has little effect.
Would it be a reasonable trouble shooting step to remove the reg at u100 and see if i can then adjust to a -15 voltage? Also checked intersection of CR107, CR105, -7v to ground, would have thought it should be 0. Also note that when I first started adjusting the voltage was -24
I finally got my regs today. Not sure, but it may be awhile before I install them.
You should get + 5 V across CR105 and -5v across CR107,the intersection between them should be 0vQuote:
Also checked intersection of CR107, CR105, -7v to ground, would have thought it should be 0.
I suggest that anyone doing the mod keep the old parts just in case.Quote:
Went to radioshack, bought a stock 317
:confused:There is no left and right,both regs feed the opamps of each channel.Quote:
This has temporarily forced me into a right/left A/B comparison between stock reg and the Burson reg.
stays with the speaker or follows the signal.
BTW I also put in a lower capacitor value at C120, as FTGV said it didn't change anything with the signal but it did eliminate the audible transformer hum.
ok, looks like the left tweeter on my Maggie 1B's is degrading as the treble difference stays left with speaker cables reversed. Keeping my fingers crossed the 1.7's show soon its been 3 months waiting for delivery. Kind of cool in a way, with the stock DAC or Genki output the treble transients weren't challenging the speakers enough to reveal the weakness. FGTV sent me a question, heres the back serial number, watch out for quality control issues if your serial number is close to mine.
Might be getting a 600 locally for cheap, so I'll be attempting this. Any chance for a "minimalist" version of the upgrades? Such as just the op amps and perhaps some but not all of the capacitors? I mean to leave out any change that does not make an improvement for the cost, unless it is really all worth it
You could just do the power supply caps and the Op-amps. Use the sockets for the Op-amps it make life a whole lot easier. The rest of the stuff isn't hard just time consuming and you need a little bit of skill and few proper tools. The Op-amps involve the most work because of the reserve caps recommended and really needed. The rest is just removing/replacing some caps.
The largest cost by far are the Op-amps. The caps are fairly cheap if you don;t have to buy a minimum amount. Just be careful if you stray to far from the cap model numbers mentioned because space will be an issue so if make 100% sure they will fit, both in the physical space and the size of the leads. The holes in the pcb are very small and really can't be enlarged.
I almost hope this doesn't turn out awesome so I don't regret the AVM 20 I bought a few weeks ago! I'll let everyone know my experiences with the mod, already have the tools so unless it is a pain to desolder shouldn't take too much effort
This looks tempting,the question is are they counterfits.As they say if it sounds to good to be true then... http://cgi.ebay.ca/2-pcs-Dual-BB-OPA...item2ead3d2b5c
Would be pretty great to get all this together for less than $150, going to hinge on the sale of my Anthem I suppose
I was looking at this seller a few weeks ago. Seems legit as they seem to have good feedback from past buyers, and sells a lot of audio related parts, are they real OPA627's...? Perhaps contact some of the past buyers.
I was hesitant to purchase from e-bay--I got mine here
The Brown Dogs are $50ea and you'll need two.George (and others) have had excellent results with the OPA627's which are premium devices but there are other less expensive good performing alternatives like the LM4562.They may not give you quite the same level of improvements but should IMO be an upgrade vs the stock opamps.Quote:
'm not against spending $25 instead of $50,
Never get out of the boat.:cool: