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Thread: Point to point

  1. #1

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    Default Point to point

    Anyone every converted a crossover from a PCB to point to point? Whats the process?

    I dont plan to do this - but know it is a superior method
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3 View Post
    Anyone ever converted a crossover from a PCB to point to point? Whats the process?

    I dont plan to do this - but know it is a superior method
    Humm, thats a good one! Unless the PCB needs to be replaced I don't see why one would want to do such. Ok, maybe for an upgrade where the components are larger.

    Even if you don't use a PCB you'd still would need to use something hard and non flamable to hold the components in order to strategically place them (hopefully place them similar to the way they were installed on the origiinal Xo), solder your components using their leards and then cover with hot glue.

    The advantage I could see out of such is price and I guess point to point might improve the signal slightly (compared to the tinfoil runs of PCBs)???


    Cheers!
    TK
    Last edited by TECHNOKID; 05-30-2010 at 08:26 PM.

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    Why non flammable? How often do you hear of crossover components bursting into flames? :D

    It's common to mount the components to peg board or a regular piece of wood, solder all components directly to each other, and use chassis wire if needed.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

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    Quote Originally Posted by Face View Post
    Why non flammable? How often do you hear of crossover components bursting into flames? :D

    It's common to mount the components to peg board or a regular piece of wood, solder all components directly to each other, and use chassis wire if needed.
    Simply for ease of soldering. also, maybe I am too picky when it comes to safety (anything which use electricity).

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    Just trace the circuit and reproduce it point to point. It's fine to use terminal strips, too :-)

    I like pegboard; perfboard (which Radio Shack used to sell) is fine, too.

    Here for example is one of the XOs I built for my daughter's CSW Model Sixes displaying my fine construction skills :-P

    Last edited by mhardy6647; 05-30-2010 at 09:02 PM.
    all the best,
    mrh

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    Here's another one with the stock board on the left.


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    yeah, well, yours is pretty!
    ;-)
    all the best,
    mrh

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    Nice neat work zingo.

    As long as the PC board has wide traces to handle high currents and allow for proper coil orientation and spacing then IMO no need to go P-P.

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    It's fine to use terminal strips
    Humm, I really like that idea!

    Very fine job Zingo!

    As long as the PC board has wide traces to handle high currents and allow for proper coil orientation and spacing
    +1

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    The terminal strip is really nice as I can remove the board without soldering, but it still provides a good connection. Especially if you run your leads through the terminal strip so they touch each other and the screws for the terminal are only securing the connection.

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    A lot of the older commercial equipment was using this type of terminal strip. One of the best on the market. It used taylored short jumpers for paralelling circuits. I think it is a great idea to use it for point to point Xos. I guess you acquired them from parts express?

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    This still needs a little lead trimming, but not until after I drill and router the board to zip tie and glue the components down. This is the tweeter and mid section of the custom speakers I built, the woofer crossover is on another board.



    This is my Tannoy HPD-385A crossover. One day I'll get around to staining and sealing it.



    Finally, here's a pair of LSi15 crossovers before being tidied up.

    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

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    Cool, does look spiffy :D So you did use MDF, it seems to be pretty sturdy. Do you simply "hot glue" the components on the MDF? How do you like the terninal strips you are presently using?

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    I bought my terminal strips from the local electrical supply store linked below, but I was also able to find them at a number of other local shops. However, I'm sure PE would also have them.

    http://www.frys.com/product/1898992?...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

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    Quote Originally Posted by TECHNOKID View Post
    Cool, does look spiffy :D So you did use MDF, it seems to be pretty sturdy. Do you simply "hot glue" the components on the MDF? How do you like the terninal strips you are presently using?
    The white terminal strips are the bomb. I bought a 25 pack when I left the electronics store I worked at way back. You can cut them to size, plus the set screw is insulated. They do come in different 'gauges' and I only stocked up on the 18-22 ga style.

    Zingos are not flexible, not exactly insulated, but they do accept spade connectors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ShinAce View Post
    The white terminal strips are the bomb. I bought a 25 pack when I left the electronics store I worked at way back. You can cut them to size, plus the set screw is insulated. They do come in different 'gauges' and I only stocked up on the 18-22 ga style.

    Zingos are not flexible, not exactly insulated, but they do accept spade connectors.
    Thanks ShinAce! Your connector looks good and I see the isolation (feed wire through). The one zingo uses (I am not sure it still exist) you should be able to buy covers for them if they don't exist anymore you can easily make your own. They are very versatile since you can paralell them (either using specific short spade or if you can not get them anymore you just stack the spades,,, probably 3 of them). I guess both types have their pros and cons. One thing for sure, you can do a much nicer job using one or the other instead of twistings wires.

    Cheers!
    TK

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