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  1. #1

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    Default My project - Holden VE SSV Ute

    Hello Everyone!

    Fairly new to the forum and reasonably new to car audio > have been researching my build over the past few months so this site has been great. :)

    I will attempt to post up a few pics and information on the build (not many pics yet) - and ask a question relating to a problem I have with Engine buzz/noise. I also suffered this problem with my first audio build (suzuki baleno hatch) and was 95% solved with RCA filter so this might be solution but comments welcome!

    So now onto my 2nd audio build and current car - it is a 2008 Holden SSV Ute fitted with their 'Premium' Stereo package (which seems like a joke to me....) I guess the premium part is in the 6 CD stacker since the speakers are paper coned splits.

    Deciding I want to enter some car + sound competitions I thought I'd look at the higher end of town and after much negotiation/deliberation I settled on:
    *Polk MM6501 Splits
    *Polk MM1240SVC
    *Option Audio Amp running 3 channel mode 160WRMS to splits and 350WRMS to subwoofer.
    *Retaining Stock head unit - for now. I have had No Limit electronics in VIC modify the OEM unit to provide me with 2 sets of RCA outputs and by passing the OEM amplifier within the stereo itself.
    This was kept to retain the HVAC functions/screen it seems a common modification and POTENTIALLY an area whereby the engine noise is being introduced but can't be sure as yet, others with the same mod to OEM head deck do NOT suffer this problem so could be elsewhere......

    I was hoping to build somewhat more SQ than anything else so OEM H/D might have to go but being new and not knowing all the good brands and models (speakers) I'm not sure I've bought 'the best' but am very happy thus far (all of about 3 mins of listening so far and some tuning/tweaking yet to be done). Being a musician I listen to a WIDE variety of music so ask alot of the systems I purchase.

    Due to the wide taste in music I guess component choice will always be a compromise especially when working with the limited room of the ute.
    On that note, the Pre VE models had only 90litres behind the seats for storage/stereo gear so having 245litres in the new model range is somewhat handy!

    I did not want to compromise on getting a 'shallow' sub/box which the salesman initially tried to sell me on 'because you have a ute'.....however I am somewhat worried that a single 12" in the ute cabin will be too much BUT after alot of reading figured the Polk MM1240 in a sealed custom box was best choice.
    Time will tell as I am yet to finish the sub box after having a few install issues over the weekend took up all my time!

    The build was overall the easiest I've been involved with. Having seen mates modify their stereos and assisting myself, doing 2 of my own jobs was not always straight forward > check the pics though and you can see the Polk MM6501s fit PERFECTLY in place of the stock units. NO modifications where really required....

    I realise better results may be achieved with more work and I do have some sound deadening products I was going to use but again the stock deadening is actually quite good - I guess because it's a ute and suffers from cabin noise they have done a reasonable job of sound deadening with a panel in the door and thick foam inserts on the door trims itself. As it was going to be ALOT faster to install system we decided to run without it for time being and once it's all finished we will re-assess. We placed the tweeters in the same place as OEM so we did have to cut a hole for each one in the trim of the
    car but comes up ready tidy and looks factory. I will have to move that rego label to the side window when I get the next one....





    After finishing the build we had a VERY poor signal, no volume all crackles > terrible sound and very disapointed. Something was not right!
    We ran iphone directly into amp via 3.5mm>RCA and problem persists........connect OEM speaker to out put of amp (thus bypassing speaker install/wiring) and problem still there!

    Suspecting a DOA amp we almost finished testing....tried one more thing, move the earth......where it was placed was on the body of a car and it looked to be THE ideal spot > however ran it to the battery instead and BAM perfect crystal clear sound!!!! DOH well at least it's working and I didn't have to send the head deck away or remove all the amp etc!!! PHEEEEEEEEEW

    So now I am close to finishing and will take some more pics now it's going to be tidied up>install sub box. I will see how it goes, if it's total overkill or unbalanced I'm thinking maybe smaller subs but one behind EACH seat instead of just the one I've got going in behind drivers. Interestingly to note, when I ordered the sub friom WOW they mentioned they had the DVC model for $30 cheaper than the SVC model($229 VS $199)!!!! Not knowing alot about this it seems it would only really benefit me if i was running multiple amps/subs and the shop did not have them in stock so I ran with the SVC unit which they gave to me for same price as DVC

    Hmmm what else... .....that's probably it for now but should have sub box in this weekend so more pics will come!

    Oh that's right - I read in the speaker manual that:


    Can't wait to get it all tuned and ready for a sound comp!

    cheers
    jarrad
    Last edited by Cunningstunter; 06-07-2010 at 09:12 PM.

  2. #2

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    hey jarrad - any updates on the project? hows the end-result? :)

  3. #3

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    Sub box finished, everything finished really!

    Had a few engine whine issues - problem turned out to be the shop that added the RCA cables to my OEM Blaupunkt H/U. They had essentially stripped back a set of RCA leads and soldered them DIRECTLY TO THE MAIN BOARD freakin me out...!!

    2nd shop that had a crack installed a PCB 'buffering' board, that provided me with RCA outputs as well as remote/trigger wire. Guy #2 charged HALF THE PRICE of guy#1 and works AWESOME (See Phreddy from ASR)

    Pretty much now just fiddling with tuning. Not sure about overall finish, I may need to add some extra speakers for mid bass behind/next to the seats (it's a ute remember) but then I need another amp so. . . . . what I really need to do in that case is register my products/enter the Polk audio draw for the $500 worth of goods then I can get those extra speakers and won't be so expensive for me to get the extra amp either

    Very happy though, might need a few tweaks before I enter any comps

  4. #4

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    Ok Polkers I'm after some help please! Oh and I am a muso so was after a decent stage/SQ but am fairly new to car audio and related products/setup.

    As mentioned above I have
    Sound Magus C160 amp (600W) is meant to be able to provide 180W to splits, bridged channel for sub is 350W
    The amp does have screws for frequencies on both channels and I have no idea where to set these.
    Turning the frequncy anti clock wise all the way seems to 'turn' the sub down almost to the point where it doesn't sound like I even have a sub! Turning it ALL the way the other way, seems to provide it but still seem to be missing song parts. I have tried the same song over and over and over, changing the frequcny screws indepentaly but just seem to improve it.

    Polk MM6501s 125w
    POLK MM1204 SVC 12" sub 425W
    Partially sound deadened doors (factory is quite good due to ute cabin noise they have to go the extra step although I do have extra I will add soon)
    Amp ran for 1 week at no gain to bed speakers in, still only using 1/4 turn of a 2, full turn screw for both splits and sub.

    I am after tuning advice, after searching for this yesterday and reading arunsomeone who was having some issues the thread answered some questions I had, but also raised some new ones...

    Was particularly interested in how best to tune, for my ute as I realise it's probably far from being a very good car to get a good stage from, esp when I've only got 6.5 splits + a sub.

    So maybe some quick fire questions first up that others maybe able to elaborate on...

    Are the MM6501s known for Mid bass? Since I am relying on these for everything above the sub frequencies.
    I am worried about blowing something up so haven't wanted to really test where they might start distorting etc

    I read with interest about getting the frequencies sorted and this could be a big part of my problem - Some songs seem to have entire parts missing particulary bass or maybe it's mid bass I'm not sure LOL

    I have changed the HPF to allow all frequencies through > doesn't seem to make MUCH difference, it's only slight and doesn't seem to 'find' my missing song parts......on the other thread someone said something about running lower frequencies but turning the gain up????

    Anyhow, with my obviously basic understanding of things perhaps the question should simply be:

    I need help/tips on tuning! LOL (at least before I invest in another set of speakers for back fill/extra mids

    EDIT- this is the thread that got me going on frequencies etc
    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101828
    EDIT#2- Xover for splits are set at 0Db and I have absolutely no idea what this affects....wll try and research more in meantime sorry for this

    thanks
    jarrad
    Last edited by Cunningstunter; 07-01-2010 at 09:12 PM.

  5. #5

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    Give the MM some time to loosen up. They will begin to reach lower more each day.

    Cut at around 50 for the mids and the sub, and around 4-5k for the tweets if youre going active. You can play around with these as you like but these are general ideas for xovers. The higher you cut the sub, the boomier the sound will get.

    A 0 db slope means theres no cutoff. The larger the db is, the sharper the slope of the cutoff. That means as frequencies get higher for the sub, they play less and less. Start with these as high as you can have them.


    Don't invest in more speakers. It would be a waste. What you have right now is all most of us run. Your issues sound like tuning and breaking the MM woofers in. I'm sure arun will chime in with more details as he always does.

  6. #6

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    Hey Jarrad,

    The vehicle is a RHD!!! Plus your comment about VIC, so I'm assuming you're from OZ land. Welcome to CP.

    Will post a detailed reply tonight, to try and address your questions. Meanwhile just some general questions.

    1. Whats your goal? Are you looking for competition grade sound or just decent sound for your daily drive?

    2. What are the tuning features on your stock hu? Does it allow you to set LPF / HPF for your sub and mids? Time alignment? Equaliser? If you're looking for competition grade sound, you probably will need to change the stock hu.

    3. What are your current settings on the hu?

    4. What are your setttings on the amp? Gain, crossover points, although I think you have mentioned these somewhere in your posts.

    The switch on your passive crossover is for tweeter attenuation. 0db means no attenuation and setting at -3db would lower your tweeters output by 3db's. Try it both ways, see what you prefer.

    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Your issues sound like tuning and breaking the MM woofers in. I'm sure arun will chime in with more details as he always does.
    :)

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    Hey Jarrad,

    The vehicle is a RHD!!! Plus your comment about VIC, so I'm assuming you're from OZ land. Welcome to CP.
    Thanks Arun, I have felt very welcomed here! Vehicle is RHD (how did you know that?) Must be the pic with tweeter giving it away....I am from OZ Land :)

    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    Will post a detailed reply tonight, to try and address your questions. Meanwhile just some general questions.

    1. Whats your goal? Are you looking for competition grade sound or just decent sound for your daily drive?
    I will enter some sound off comps for SQ however this wasn't the initial objective. I am a musician and love good sound, I probably haven't spent enough/bought the right amp (Option Audio by Sound Magus) however I was on a pretty tight budget....entering the sound comp was simply something to do, not an objective of the system if that makes sense? I just love quality sound and actually spent more on my Shure ear buds than I did on my car's splits! *hangs head in shame* lol however my ear buds are used for recording/listening to my own recordings, as well as listening to iphone.

    If my car doesn't do well at the comps I don't really care - it's more that the Sony/Kicker install I did on last car, costing 1/3 the price for similar components (12" sub, amp, 6.5 splits - sub and amp where 2nd handies with new Sony HU and Kicker splits - cost me $500 AUD all up and pretty impressed for the cost. On current car cost was more like $1500, no new head deck (RCA mod was only $160) but rest of gear brand new and the SQ is worlds apart from old car......sound deadening in new car is INCREDIBLY good.....I haven't really REALLY cranked it yet, wanting to give the speakers time to 'bed in' but it's whisper quiet outside of the car - you just can't hear any of the music, barely hear the sub,...inside the car all hell is breaking lose hahahaha

    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    2. What are the tuning features on your stock hu? Does it allow you to set LPF / HPF for your sub and mids? Time alignment? Equaliser? If you're looking for competition grade sound, you probably will need to change the stock hu.
    Tuning features are almost NIL. I have the normal Bass/Treb settings and I don't use the preset features like 'Jazz, rock, dance etc'.
    Time alignment????? What's that? LOL Is that something along the lines that the sub plays slightly before (or after?) the splits?

    Either way, HU is very limiting as it's the Holden OEM HU (didn't even have RCA out) I had a few options - most shops wanted to sell me a system that was tied together with LOC from current speaker wires. After reading about this I decided against this option as I was buying POLK for SQ and apparently LOCs are not very good.
    Another option was to run 2 HUs - JUST replacing the OEM unit wasn't really an option as the clim control etc is all tied up into it with the large screen :(
    There was options to modify this further to allow DVD VIM etc etc but was getting VERY expensive.....

    Instead, I have had a shop down here modify the OEM head to give me RCA leads (and remote wire) - this mod bypasses the OEM HUs internal amp so signal is super clean straight to amp. As mentioned, since the system wasn't intially being built for comps more just decent sound but with the results I have, and some extra time on my hands I will enter it but more for sh1ts and giggles than taking it seriously FTW :)

    With this mod, in my UTE - I can use the FADER for 'turning up/down' the sub although I do understand this isn't really designed for this....

    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    3. What are your current settings on the hu?
    Not sure what you mean by this.....? Depending on the song I'm listening to will depend what Bass/treb setting are running.....for hard/soft rock songs I'm using 4/6 bass and 3/6 treb for say more dancy tunes (LOL) I turn bass down to 2 and leave treb at 3. (lazy?)
    Balance is set at L2 because I couldn't hear the left tweeter so good. with it balanced slightly to the left it sounded as though it was more 'centred'.....
    Fader is set to F1 (1 level up for splits) for some songs I leave this as 0 balanced front/rear

    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    4. What are your setttings on the amp? Gain, crossover points, although I think you have mentioned these somewhere in your posts.
    Ok, amp settings are a bit hard to provide EXACT settings - the frequency screws give no indication what frequency range you're set at. Initially the installer set up ZERO gain (and I was suprised it was SO loud and wondered what the point of having a gain screw was if it was already that loud) and the frequency screws turned UP all the way. From my posts above, I have basically turned the frequcnies all the way the other direction (low I assume) and I have added gain to 1/5 turn (or half of one of the 2 turns).....prior to change system was a little disapointing, since fiddling with it, it sounds 150% better and sub is very PUNCHY.....I am still wondering if the SUB should be turned MOST of the way down (instead of ALL the way down as it is now, again would be easier if they had some numbers/indicators on the screw to tell me what the actual frequency is set at :( ) and if the splits, instead of being ALL the way down should actually be set HIGH as they were before? Maybe not, but may as well ask the Q.

    Basically, frequencies were all set at highest, I have only turned them the opposite way to test.....I think there could be more improvment found here.

    Xover points are set at 0db (I assume thats what you're asking?)

    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    The switch on your passive crossover is for tweeter attenuation. 0db means no attenuation and setting at -3db would lower your tweeters output by 3db's. Try it both ways, see what you prefer.
    :)
    Is a little hard to get to them inside the door so have left these alone for time being. I think I'm starting to understand 'slope' > from DSKIPs post though has me confused - since there is no xover for DB switch for the sub? So was he referring just to the frequency screws instead??? If I apply that logic to the splits (the speakers with the xover) then ....(just re-read his comment and nope I still don't get it LOL)

    Are dontchya just love NOOBS! LMAO

    However I'm all ears and will take all advice on board :) :)

    thanks!

    oh and here is my sexy beast! (was very tempted to do a tray install and fill the ute with subs/amps etc but yeah, I race and perform stunt riding on motorcycles so need the tray (check out www.racing.cunningstunts.com (RACING WEBSITE) and www.cunningstunts.com) (our stunt website) *forgive the crappy iphone pic, the car looks alot better in flesh :D*

    Last edited by Cunningstunter; 07-06-2010 at 10:10 PM.

  8. #8

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    If you're going to compete and you want good sound, you need to have a few things in place.

    1. HU with great tuning features
    2. Good speakers
    3. Proper speaker placement
    4. Sound deadening to help minimise cancellations

    Of this, you already have 2-4 in place. So now you need a hu. I would suggest that you go for a used p-880 or 800 / 9887 / or the higher end eclipse. I'm suggesting used, to keep the cost low. I don't know how much these would go for in Oz.

    Yes you have a Chinese amp, but today most electronics are made in China anyways. A lot of the so called 'experienced' sq guys will tell you how you need to have a $ 1,000 amp to have great sound. Thats BS and anyone who tells you that doesn't know much about sound. I looked at the numbers on your amp and they seem like reasonable, honest numbers. Which tells me the company is probably not fudging the numbers and hence the product should be of reasonable quality. Thats all you need with an amp. An amp that makes rated power and has a decently low noise floor is fine.

    So as a first step I would get a hu, we will help you in using the tuning features and I'm sure you will like the results. Currently there isnt much to tune except the gain and xover point on your amp. If your gain is at min I would bring that up a bit. If from your gain knob all the way left (anti clockwise) is min, that would be around 7 o'clock and if max is all the way right (clockwise) that would be say 5 o'clock. Set your gain to around 10 o'clock. If it's the other way round where 7 o'clock is max and 5 is min then set it around 3 o'clock. If you're not clear on this just say so.

    For the crossover dial set front ch and rear channels around the 50-60hz mark.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    If you're going to compete and you want good sound, you need to have a few things in place.

    1. HU with great tuning features
    2. Good speakers
    3. Proper speaker placement
    4. Sound deadening to help minimise cancellations

    Of this, you already have 2-4 in place. So now you need a hu. I would suggest that you go for a used p-880 or 800 / 9887 / or the higher end eclipse. I'm suggesting used, to keep the cost low. I don't know how much these would go for in Oz.

    Yes you have a Chinese amp, but today most electronics are made in China anyways. A lot of the so called 'experienced' sq guys will tell you how you need to have a $ 1,000 amp to have great sound. Thats BS and anyone who tells you that doesn't know much about sound. I looked at the numbers on your amp and they seem like reasonable, honest numbers. Which tells me the company is probably not fudging the numbers and hence the product should be of reasonable quality. Thats all you need with an amp. An amp that makes rated power and has a decently low noise floor is fine.

    So as a first step I would get a hu, we will help you in using the tuning features and I'm sure you will like the results. Currently there isnt much to tune except the gain and xover point on your amp. If your gain is at min I would bring that up a bit. If from your gain knob all the way left (anti clockwise) is min, that would be around 7 o'clock and if max is all the way right (clockwise) that would be say 5 o'clock. Set your gain to around 10 o'clock. If it's the other way round where 7 o'clock is max and 5 is min then set it around 3 o'clock. If you're not clear on this just say so.

    For the crossover dial set front ch and rear channels around the 50-60hz mark.
    Thanks for your input. I actually have 3/ requirements done -
    2. Good speakers (I think)
    3. Proper speaker placement (complete and as good as it gets in a ute with NO space)
    4. Sound deadening to help minimise cancellations (done -after pics were posted)

    I'm not sure you understand where I'm coming from though all feedback welcome of course! I cannot change the HU....well of course I CAN, but then I lose HVAC controls for the car. This is part of the problem of brand new modern cars, they really don't want you modifying stuff and exactly why they don't include RCA as standard. Consider this also - the OEM HU is not really being used since it's internal amp has been bypassed so other than a few added tuning functions there seems little point in trying to replace it.

    Also, the gain WAS at minimum. As mentioned I have already changed this.
    Initial settings were NO gain, frequency as high as possible. I changed this last week to adding some gain and lowering all the frequencies. Also most of the screw adjusters have MORE than 1 screw turn......so even though you say set gain at '10:00' it's not really going to be accurate unless it only had the 1 turn avail yeah?

    Part of the issue is there is no way to tell what frequency I am setting since the dials don't have numbers or indicators so I can only guess by how it sounds.

    For the time being, I have to stick with OEM HU. Being Blaupaunkt its certainly not the worst system but there is nothing to replace it that INCLUDES HVAC controls,....there are mods that can be done but it's getting VERY high in cost, to a point where instead of modifying OEM I'd just spend the $1000 on a replacement HU - I do not want to do this, just yet at least.

    Objective of my build was to provide a substantial improvement over the *unamplified* OEM paper cone splits that were in car (so good sound first - competing 2nd not the other way around) because I have joined some other Australian car forums I will also enter a sound comp however it's just for sh1ts and giggles, not something I take seriously at all (as far as winning goes)....honestly, if I was serious about car audio/entering comps, I would NOT have bought a ute.......OR I'd have done a 'tray' system with 30 subs, 10amps etc etc etc

    Will check out those HUs anyways, might be something I can do in the future or might as you suggest, find a 2nd hand one (but then could be buying a can of worms too) but hopefully someone releases a system that is compatible with my current LCD screen/HVAC controls. Sounds like I'm not too far wrong with my logic on tuning anyways its just annoying the amp doesn't have indicators to show what frequencies are set at.

    Thanks again!!! :)

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    I have done a little more searching........

    ALOT of ppl posting up information about having to retain the Holden B/P HU but using it with a Alpine hub to get time alignment and the other tuning things you refer to........

    Going out at lunch to check some stuff out, also gear from Eclipse - can't find any 2nd hand units (I assume those models are Alpine?) not much 2nd hand gear around at all or at least none that looks ok enough to buy. . . . .

    Looks like that hub thing might be ok?

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    I was suggesting running a second hu. Leave your existing hu for your HVAC functions. Just install a second hu which you can then hook up to your amp. Yes the 9887 is alpine or Eclipse 7200 or the Pio p-800/880. All three I think are discontinued but still available. In terms of pure tuning options the pio is the best as it gives the max tuning options. Its the only hu that gives you seperate L/R control on the eq.
    Last edited by arun1963; 07-08-2010 at 11:44 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    I was suggesting running a second hu. Leave your existing hu for your HVAC functions. Just install a second hu which you can then hook up to your amp. Yes the 9887 is alpine or Eclipse 7200 or the Pio p-800/880. All three I think are discontinued but still available. In terms of pure tuning options the pio is the best as it gives the max tuning options. Its the only hu that gives you seperate L/R control on the eq.
    AHHHH of course sorry mate!!! Yeah intially wasn't so keen on the whole 2nd HU and it was an option given to me.... however this means I don't have control over the stereo with existing stereo controls?? the only real palce for a 2nd HU would be glovebox which is too far too reach from drivers seat so how does one insert discs, change volumes etc? I guess I wo0uld have a remote control but will this work with glovebox clsoed? Having a 2nd HU seemed to be a pain in the rear to me, but if I'm going to get SUBSTANTIALLY better results it may be worth the extra cost. . . . I'm guessing still above $500AUD though so it;d want to make a big difference!

    I am searching around now for the models you mention....I guess an advantage would be OEM HU could retain the 3rd middle speaker in the dash (car as 3 sets of speaker, x 1 in each door and a stupid little on in the dash.) What was handy was having Bluetooth for iphone for hands free talking in car. With door speakers running through amp, they no longer work for using with phone/talking/hearing. I had initially left the middle speaker wired because that was the only way for me to talk on phone in car hands free, however middle speaker was causing all sorts of imaging/quality issues so I disconnected. So now I can't use bluetooth handsfree at all :( running 2nd head deck sounds like I could re-connect that middle speaker to OEM stereo getting phone ability back and no music would come through this as thats what 2nd HU is for.....

    thanks again arun, champion!

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    Just had to jump in when I saw the thread title. You Aussies are lucky, I've wanted a Ute since I was 12. That and the Bathurst edition Commodore are drool worthy... Good luck with you project, beautiful beast you have!
    I'm in the high-fidelity first class traveling set

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cunningstunter View Post
    but if I'm going to get SUBSTANTIALLY better results it may be worth the extra cost. . . . I'm guessing still above $500AUD though so it;d want to make a big difference!
    Will the hu make a big difference? Yes, with any of those it will be night and day. If you post pics of your dash, maybe cody can suggest some alternate locations where you could mount the hu with a brace.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ledhed View Post
    Just had to jump in when I saw the thread title. You Aussies are lucky, I've wanted a Ute since I was 12. That and the Bathurst edition Commodore are drool worthy... Good luck with you project, beautiful beast you have!
    Hi Ledhed - no worries mate! Agreed, we certainly live in the lucky country!
    Well in some respects. . . . anything motorsport related is backwards big time in this country. The racetracks we have are few and far between (like 9+hours drive one way to Philip island) I'll admit I'm not much of a car race fan, but the V8s do get decent coverage here but everything else gets canned. For me and motorsport in mind, Isle of Mann or even Spain sound pretty sweet!

    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    Will the hu make a big difference? Yes, with any of those it will be night and day. If you post pics of your dash, maybe cody can suggest some alternate locations where you could mount the hu with a brace.
    Hmm ok. . . .will keep my ears open for a 2nd hand unit, none around atm.....

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    Default busted speaker?

    I think I may have blown the voice coil (how does that happen btw?)

    Recently, I had dynamatting fitted to both ute doors and the sound improved immensely....about a week after this happened I noticed a strange rattle in the L speaker (right side is fine these are the MM6501 splits mentioned above).

    Something that I may have done to contribute, is on my OEM Headunit, I have had the balance (ONLY) 1 notch from centre to try and band aid fix the stage - ran like this since install with no issues until now....

    Was happy with them until recently, so I either have to replace 1 speaker (having to buy a whole new set in the process...) or I could change/upgrade.

    Advice?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cunningstunter View Post
    I think I may have blown the voice coil (how does that happen btw?)
    Mostly by setting the gains too high on the amp and then cranking the volume knob. Before you replace the speaker check by pushing the cone in a bit. If the movement is restricted and you hear a scratchy noise when you push the cone, then yes it's time for a new mid driver. Turn the gains down .

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    Mostly by setting the gains too high on the amp and then cranking the volume knob. Before you replace the speaker check by pushing the cone in a bit. If the movement is restricted and you hear a scratchy noise when you push the cone, then yes it's time for a new mid driver. Turn the gains down .
    Thanks mate :) Such a shame the speakers had been going so well. Gain had not changed in past 12 months UNLESS the guy that installed the Dynamat changed it at all (will have to check had just assumed it would be unchanged) ....

    Had been wondering if with the extra pressure of having an enclosed door/dynamatted whether this could've contributed since nothing else on the system changed it seems odd it went kaput around the same time.....

    Finding it hard to find a set of the MM6501s, really only need the 1 mid range speaker so sucks looking to pay $450 for 2 new ones when I paid $250 for the orig ones (on sale)....

    grrrrrrrrrrrr....frustrating!

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    So it seems the voice coil has in fact packed it in.. :( Not sure how, nothing other that the dynamat was added, but thems the breaks...

    Is it possible to purchase just a new driver VS a pair of new speakers? Having troubles locating a supplier in AUS....

    Thanks

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    If you just want to replace the mid driver why not look here. Plenty of diy options available and they will ship worldwide.

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