Attention 3.1TL owners (regarding the rings for the PR and drivers)

[headrott]

I have been working on installing the rings into my 3.1TL's. I took all the drivers out along with the PR and drilled the holes using the guide rings supplied by Larry. Everything worked out well per Raife's directions.

Everything worked out well until I tried to insert the rings into the newly drilled holes that is. I started with the 12" PR ring and went to install it; the first half seemed to line up and go in fine, the second half near the edge of the cabinet I found is blocked by the triangular shaped wood blocks glued to the cabinet back and wall. I found I had 2 choices.

1) Pry up the block and re-glue it to a different position away from the edge of the ring

OR

2) cut away a portion of the triangular block to allow the ring to pass and be flush with the front of the cabinet.

I ended up using both methods, one in the future (more on that in a bit) and in the case of the PR I cut away a portion of the block to allow the ring to pass it. I found it easier to cut aportion away of the smaller triangular shaped block on the bottom of the cabinet than it was to pry it up and move it. The block on the bottom was just too well glued into position to move. The block on the side and back I found I could pry it off and re-glue it to another, further away from where the ring enters the newly drilled holes. I successfully got the ring into position for the PR.

Next I started the 5 drivers (4 6503's and 1 6511). I tried to get the ring into position, but found the crossboards on 2 of the 6503 driver's were in the way of the rings. I had to cut a small portion of it away to get the ring passed it. I successfully got it passed it, but the screw holes on the ring I could not get lined up with the drilled holes in the cabinet. I found out that the rings for the 4 6503 drivers are about 1/8" too big on the outside portion of the ring where it meets the right side of the cabinet, on the left speaker and the left side of the cabinet on the right speaker. I used a hack saw to cut about 1/8" off a portion of the ring directly in between the 2 screw holes on the ring. After trying this with one ring I successfully got the ring into position on the very bottom 6503 driver. I began cutting another ring (1/8") and tried to get it into position in the second from the bottom 6503 driver position. Unfortunately, as mentioned abover there was a wooden crossbeam (that goes along the side of the cabinet between the front and back portions of the cabinet, below the driver hole) that got in the way of the ring. There is also a triangular shaped block (as mentioned before) that was in the way above the driver hole. I have yet to try to pry up or cut the triangular shaped block and still need to get the ring into that second hole.

The third driver hole up also has a wooden crossbeam in the way of the ring as well as another triangular shaped block. I have yet to do anything about this as well.

Finally, the 6511 driver hole on the left side of the left speaker and the 6511 driver hole on the right side of the right speaker also has a triangular shaped wooden block that you will have to try to pry up, move and re-glue or cut a portion away to get the ring in place.

There is a little extra work you will have to do to get your rings into your 3.1TL's but from what I have heard it will be worth it.

If anyone has some better ideas on how to do some of the things mentioned, please post them and add pictures if you thin it will help. I will take some picetures and add them because I think it will help. I will post them as soon as I am able.


Greg

[Toolfan66]

Greg,

Can you make me some paper templates? so we can make this easier down the road..

I knew some of you guys would have to do some mods yourself. But you will find it to be worth it...

What would have helped is if I owned every SDA...lol;)

[nooshinjohn]

Greg,


What would have helped is if I owned every SDA...lol;)

Soon, very soon......


MMMMmmmmWWWAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA:p

[headrott]

Greg,

Can you make me some paper templates? so we can make this easier down the road..

I knew some of you guys would have to do some mods yourself. But you will find it to be worth it...

What would have helped is if I owned every SDA...lol;)

Yeah, I can try to make a template before I install the last ring into the speaker. I will also post some pictures to give people an idea of what I am talking about.

I understand Larry, you could't have know that the rings would have a hard time fitting into position unless you did own the speaker (3.1TL) just as if any other models of the speakers may have mods that need to be done. You had a lot of rings to get done, and did them in very little time plus a you stated do not own all models of speakers. We are just thankful that you cae up this idea and that you let us all have a chance to use it as well.

Hurry up and buy all of them so this kind of thing doesn't happen in the future!;):p:p:p:D

Greg

[DarqueKnight]

Thanks for posting this Greg. I don't own 3.1TL's but they are on my acquisition list.

[LONG TIME BUYER]

Please post pictures.i have a pair of 3.1tls for now if i dont sale them.

[F1nut]

One doesn't sale an item, one sells an item.

[headrott]

I took some pictures of the 3.1TL's after intalling the rings and one of the crossboards that is cut/chiseled to allow the ring to pass and become flush with the front of the speaker cabinet. Some of the pictures turned out better than others so please forgive the brightness and/or focus of a few of the pictures.

Important: I found out that you also have to cut/saw a piece of the ring for the MW6511 driver as well to allow the screw holes to enter into the drilled holes. So all 10 driver (NOT the passive radiator ring) rings need to be cut symetrically in between the two screw hole recepticals on one side (see picture) to become flush with the front of the speaker cabinet.

I also took a picture of the who left 3.1TL speaker with only the MW6511 installed and the other 4 driver spots left open. I then took a picture of the inside of the 2nd MW6503 driver spot from the top, where I cut/chiseled the crossboard away to allow the ring to get passed it. (Sorry for the horrible quality, but I could not take a picture with the camera any further back than it was. It's overly bright and the focus is horrible, so I'm sorry.

I then took a picture of the top 2 6503 driver spots and the bottom 2 6511 spots with the rings installed. Also, the crossboards I am talking about are in the bottom 2 6503 driver spot picture.

I then took a picture of the PR spot and you can see the triangular shaped wooden pieces that in some cases are in the way of the rings and need to be pried up and reglued or chiseled away to allow the ring to pass.

Finally, I took a picture of the left 3.1TL with all drivers installed with the rings in place. I then started on the right 3.1TL. Back to cutting those rings.............

Greg

[headrott]

Here are the last 2 pictures of the 3.1TL's.

Greg

Edit:

I almost forgot a very important thing regarding the passive radiator and screwing it into the ring. When Raife said that the flat head star screws were for the PR, he meant you must use these screws for the PR. This is because the hex screws do not have a large enough head and will pass right thrrough the hole in the PR and not hold the PR into place. You will have to use the flat head star screws to do this.

[F1nut]

I got a bunch of #8 brass washers, sprayed them semi-flat black and used them with the cap screws on the PR's. Worked like a dream.

[headrott]

#8 washers eh? Good idea Jesse. I thought of doing this too, but I don't think I have any flat black paint to use. Do they sell black washers? I can't recall seeing any before, but it seems they must. It would be cheaper and less complicated (not that it is complicated) just to buy 8 more flat head star screws to use for the PR. I will have to locate some at a local hardware shop though. Not a type of screw I have looked for before. Hopefully, they are not hard to find. Larry said he sent me some more as I only recieved 6 in the bag of screws, but I am not sure how many he sent to me. Probably not another 8 of them. If it comes down to it, I may use your method. Thanks again Jesse.

Greg

[woodguru]

One doesn't sale an item, one sells an item.

Picky picky :D

Maybe he's from Georgia or Texas

[headrott]

I got a bunch of #8 brass washers, sprayed them semi-flat black and used them with the cap screws on the PR's. Worked like a dream.

Jesse, do you have a problem of the washers crushing (twisting) the rubber of the surround of the PR? Not all the washer do, but about half hit the rubber and start to twist it. Is there a risk of damaging it do you think? Or do you even have this problem? Thanks again Jesse.

Greg

Oh, and the guru is on the move again...........

[F1nut]

Greg, I haven't done my big boys yet, only the 4.1TL's, which have a metal mesh cover over the PR. Therefore, the washers did not come in contact with the rubber.

As for the twisting on yours. Yeah, that's not ideal. I would carefully trim a little rubber off of those areas with an Exacto knife.

[F1nut]

Greg, I finally got around to doing the big boys last night. I found that there is enough play in the PR screws holes that you can adjust the PR as you tighten down the screws. I got all of the washers seated properly, that is without touching the surround.

I've very pleased with the results, they are not subtle.

[headrott]

Yeah Jesse, I am amazed at the quality of sound that the SDA's produce with the rings installed. As you said, it is not subtle at all. The clarity and focus is amazing. Listening to Peter Gabriel's "I have the touch" is phenominal!

With regard to the PR and the washers. Did you install each washer and bolt and move the PR to keep the washer from hitting the surround? There may be more room on the 2.3TL's than the 3.1TL's as the 2.3TL's have a 15" PR don't they? Is there more room between the edge of the PR and the surround compared to the 3.1TL's? Or, did you just move the PR to keep the washer from contacting the surround?

Greg

[MillerLiteScott]

Jesse, did you experience a wider sound stage after the ring installation?

Scott

[F1nut]

With regard to the PR and the washers. Did you install each washer and bolt and move the PR to keep the washer from hitting the surround? There may be more room on the 2.3TL's than the 3.1TL's as the 2.3TL's have a 15" PR don't they? Is there more room between the edge of the PR and the surround compared to the 3.1TL's? Or, did you just move the PR to keep the washer from contacting the surround?

Greg

I snugged up the cap screws and washers by hand, then moved the PR a slight bit in this or that direction to seat any of the washers that needed to be. The free play of the PR is very limited, but just enough.

[F1nut]

Jesse, did you experience a wider sound stage after the ring installation?

Scott

A slight bit. What really stood out was an increase in pinpoint imaging, an increase in vocal focus, better fleshed out mids, better bass punch and more bass growl.



Sorry Tony, but the treble is still nice and relaxed. :)

[headrott]

I wanted to say thanks Jesse for the .5 ohm resistor replacing the jumper in the S1 slot on the crossover. The highs are perfect now, with very very little or no harshness (depending on the recording). The highs still have that sparkle, but very little or no shrillness to them. Basically, everything sounds excellent though. Thanks for the suggestion Jesse. As I stated in the Traffic MFSL self titled thread, the sound of these speakers now is very very hard to beat. I recommend everyone do the crossover, tweeter, spikes, and Larry's rings modifications/tweaks. A little effort and money pays off in excellent audio.

Greg

[F1nut]

I'm glad you're enjoying the tweaks.

[TrashyTrucker]

Greg,
I know this is an old post... but did you notice any rattling or anything different when you chiseled on those braces? Would you have done anything different? I got the rings today! And thanks to you good man, Larry already offset the rings for me! (no cutting required on rings) Thanks goes to Larry too! However I still have too and NOT looking forward to the job of altering the braces to get the fit.
Thanks to all of you! I should be settin' good soon, I am waitng on sonicraft and dynamat and then perhaps I can begin.

Matt :D

[headrott]

Matt,

There are no rattles or vibrations with my 3.1TL's. I would chisle the least amount you can get away with on the crossboards. I would also reglue any portions of the boards/triangle wood braces that come loose. Just use carpenter's glue (correct me if I am wrong Jesse). If you take as little of the boards as you can get away with and move and reglue any triangle braces you need to your 3.1TL's should be fine.

Greg

[F1nut]

I got a bunch of #8 brass washers, sprayed them semi-flat black and used them with the cap screws on the PR's. Worked like a dream.

I'm glad this thread came around again because I have an update concerning the washers. I got rid of the brass washers because they are too soft, they sink or form into the basket holes. I didn't like this, so I replaced them with #8 black oxide 18-8 stainless washers and used 2 washers per screw.

I bought mine here, http://www.fastener-express.com/blac...s-washers.aspx

$2.40 for a bag of 100.

[F1nut]

Matt,

There are no rattles or vibrations with my 3.1TL's. I would chisle the least amount you can get away with on the crossboards. I would also reglue any portions of the boards/triangle wood braces that come loose. Just use carpenter's glue (correct me if I am wrong Jesse). If you take as little of the boards as you can get away with and move and reglue any triangle braces you need to your 3.1TL's should be fine.

Greg

Good advice.

[headrott]

Jesse, what is the best way to remove the white residue on the dust caps of the drivers? I know you can use windex on the driver cones and then wipe them, but you can't wipe a dust cap, and am not sure spraying the dust caps is good?

Greg

Edit: Thanks for the heads up on the washers. they look like better ones than the ones I have and will order some.

[F1nut]

Windex, spray heavy on a cloth. Dab gently and watch the white stuff disappear, at least most of it.

[headrott]

Will do! By the way, I have read that the white stuff is "outgassing from glue used on the speakers"; is that actually what causes the residue? If not, what does cause it?

Greg

[F1nut]

I believe it is from the glue used to secure the dust cap to the cone.

[headrott]

Some do not show the residue on the dust caps, actually most don't. I guess it's just the amount of glue used on that particular driver/dust cap, huh?

Greg