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  1. #1

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    Default SDA 2.3 x over upgrade

    With Soniccrafts sale on till the end of the month, I will upgrade the caps ect on my 2.3s. They have the doughnut drivers. I am going to pull the x over tonight. I have searched the forum and get 0 results. I know I saw a 2.3 post with pics and everything. I have the schematic from Raife's book. I think I will install only one set of binding posts as I cant see ever using a bi-amp set up. What do you think about that? Good idea or not?

  2. #2

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    You still need to run jumper wires from the bottom to top posts, so do all of the posts and upgrade the jumper wire while you're at it. Yeah, it makes a big difference.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  3. #3

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    What Jesse said...

    You have them out just do it, you will be glad you did.... +++1000 on the jumpers, I just got some Cardas Jumpers from Sonicraft...

    You might as well put some rings in for your drivers and passives as well;)
    No Way But The Hard Way, So Get Used To It!!!

  4. #4

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    Did you change the tweeters too ????

  5. #5

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    Default 2.3

    Tweeters already swapped by Bsoko2 (Bill) to the RDO-194

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
    Tweeters already swapped by Bsoko2 (Bill) to the RDO-194
    Good man.

  7. #7

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    Default 2.3 x over

    Heres pics of the board. On the first pic, is the yellow/orange thing left of the words input the thermal breaker? Should I jumper it or use a 0.5 ohm resistor? I had to remove the top left cap to see the value of the resistor under it. It is a 6.2 ohm 5w. So the parts match the schematic in Raife's compendium SRS 2.3. Am I right that the depressed ring is negative on the elec. caps?

    So the list for each speaker would be:
    4.4 uf 100v
    5.8 uf 50v
    12 uf 50v x 2
    20 uf 50v
    40 uf 50v
    6.2 ohm 5w
    22.5 ohm 5w
    33 ohm 5w x 2

    So for the 40 I will use a 30 and a 10.

    The purple things in the third pic that the white arrows point to are the mica bi-pass caps? I wont use any and remove these.

    I think I will wire it so there will be only one set of posts (Cardas solid copper) instead of the biwire setup it comes with stock. Bad idea?
    Any tips or questions before I put it back together?
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    Last edited by bikerboy; 07-24-2010 at 10:15 PM.

  8. #8

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    Yep--polyswitch(mustard colored),,I use a Mills .5 ohm 12 watt resistor in its' place,,for the 40,I uses 2 twentys,,can't remember why but thats what I did with my 2.3.s,, good luck--you are really gonna' be surprised what the new caps will do.

    Yes on the silver micas,, just remove em.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

  9. #9

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    Greetings!

    To check out my experience with this upgrade look Here

    Use the search engine, I think George Daniels and others have done this same upgrade.

    Use 2 - 20 uF caps instead of a 30 and a 10.

    Good luck!
    Carl

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
    Heres pics of the board. On the first pic, is the yellow/orange thing left of the words input the thermal breaker? Should I jumper it or use a 0.5 ohm resistor? I had to remove the top left cap to see the value of the resistor under it. It is a 6.2 ohm 5w. So the parts match the schematic in Raife's compendium SRS 2.3. Am I right that the depressed ring is negative on the elec. caps?

    So the list for each speaker would be:
    4.4 uf 100v
    5.8 uf 50v
    12 uf 50v x 2
    20 uf 50v
    40 uf 50v
    6.2 ohm 5w
    22.5 ohm 5w
    33 ohm 5w x 2

    So for the 40 I will use a 30 and a 10.

    The purple things in the third pic that the white arrows point to are the mica bi-pass caps? I wont use any and remove these.

    I think I will wire it so there will be only one set of posts (Cardas solid copper) instead of the biwire setup it comes with stock. Bad idea?
    Any tips or questions before I put it back together?
    I'm doing my 2.3's next week. Took advantage of the Sonic Craft sale last month, so bring yours down and we can do them together.

    Bill

  11. #11

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    Carl is da' man,,he helped me with mine.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

  12. #12

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    Am I right that the depressed ring is negative on the elec. caps?
    Crossover caps are non-polar.....no positive or negative.

    I think I will wire it so there will be only one set of posts (Cardas solid copper) instead of the biwire setup it comes with stock. Bad idea?
    Replace both sets and upgrade the jumper cables.

    Copper oxidizes, get the gold plated version.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  13. #13

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    Default 2.3 x over

    Thanks Guys,
    I used the search many times and got nothing. Thanks Carl for the link. It does look like one of the easier jobs with the plug in wire harnesses. The higher value blue caps look to be electrolitic. But the replacement soniccraft caps wont be so polarity wont matter? I am going to put it back together and order the stuff tomorrow. I will pm you Bill. Got to go pedal my ass around town. Training for the Gran Fondo in Vancouver in september. Thanks, Jeff

  14. #14

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    The sonicaps are not polar--so no orientation is necessary on your crossover.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

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    Default

    post an after picture when are done

  16. #16

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    Default New posts

    I replaced the posts with a pair I was going to use on the sda-II. I cut the extra wires that went to the top set of posts and jumpered them at the board. I removed the white ground wire that went to the spade connector on the IC connector. I didnt have a ground wire on the IC anyway. Now only one pair of posts. Used a machine screw to plug the holes. All back together for now. I will order the stuff tomorrow.
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  17. #17

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    Default 2.3 rebuild

    Ordered Larry's retaining rings. I removed the right x-over to do the wiring mods and remove the poly switch. When I tried to tighten the screws all but one of the screws stripped out. Larry is a lifesaver! Ordered fatmat to dampen the baskets and to use on the doors of the WRX. They rattle a lot when playing loud bass. Ordering caps and resistors next. Already have mortite. A long weekend of work ahead once all this stuff shows up.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
    Ordering caps and resistors next.
    FYI, Sonic Craft's sale ends soon.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche

  19. #19

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    Default 2.3 rebuild

    Ordered caps and resistors for the 2.3s from Soniccraft and other things to finish the ldr preamp. I ordered 5 watt mills for all except for the poly cap replacements I got 12 watt. I think I have it all covered. Now waiting. Thanks guys for all the pointers. It made it a lot easier to know what to order right the first time.

  20. #20

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    Thanks for documenting your upgrade bikerboy and thanks for looking up the link Carl. Please add what you can when you do it. I look forward to doing this upgrade myself when I can figure out the parts list.

    My searches when I was going to to the 2BTL had plenty of info, but my 2.3 xo searches had yielded much less (I had not found schwarcw's).
    Last edited by cincycat13; 07-28-2010 at 07:01 AM.

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
    I replaced the posts with a pair I was going to use on the sda-II. I cut the extra wires that went to the top set of posts and jumpered them at the board. I removed the white ground wire that went to the spade connector on the IC connector. I didnt have a ground wire on the IC anyway. Now only one pair of posts. Used a machine screw to plug the holes. All back together for now. I will order the stuff tomorrow.
    That was a terrible idea. You just ruined any chance of being able to use the AI-1, bi-wiring or bi-amping down the road without fixing what you just did.

    All of that glue you removed needs to be replaced to prevent air leaks.
    Last edited by F1nut; 07-28-2010 at 02:42 PM.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  22. #22

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    Default Wiring mods

    I didnt think about the A-I when I decided to cut the wiring up. The bi part doesnt bother me and probably most would agree. I dont expect to sell these ever so I'm not too worried. After all the work and money that will go into these I will love them. If I want to return them to stock it will be only one extra solder joint. I documented the mod well so I "should" be able to undo it if needed. Who likes big ugly speakers anyway? What kind of freak would like speakers built in 1988? :D

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboy View Post
    .... Who likes big ugly speakers anyway? What kind of freak would like speakers built in 1988? :D
    <--- This freak! I'm loving my new pair of 2.3's so far. As for big and ugly, that's part of why I like them. No whimpy Bose satellite speakers for this guy!

    I might even be up to the challenge of modding them soon. Perhaps Larry (who doesn't live too far from me) can help twist my arm. :D

    Alan

  24. #24

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    Well, you inspired me to give it a try. I called this afternoon (got voice mail), so I e-mailed a list of parts with my contact info except CC. Now to figure out which speakers to sell...

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    Quote Originally Posted by cincycat13 View Post
    Well, you inspired me to give it a try. I called this afternoon (got voice mail), so I e-mailed a list of parts with my contact info except CC. Now to figure out which speakers to sell...
    Way to go Jeff! You will be glad you made the jump.

    Have you replaced those tweeters yet?

    Regards,
    Carl

  26. #26

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    Default 2.3 rebuild

    The tolerance on the parts is + or - 10% so you have some room for error. Soniccraft was able to make "custom" 5.8 value cap. I think they made them for us polk freaks.
    4.3 uf 100v x 2 Gen 1
    5.8 uf 50v x 2 "
    12 uf 50v x 4 "
    20 uf 50v x 6 "
    0.1 uf 200v x 6 Gen2 for the tweeters
    6.2 ohm 5w x 2
    22 ohm 5w x 2
    33 ohm 5w x 2
    0.5 ohm 12w x 2
    Too many Jeffs around. I go by schnack at work. Here are 4 jeffs there. Glad I not the only freak around! I cant wait to get this thing done. The man cave will never be the same! Acoustic panels next. No more hardware changes till they are done.
    The ugly and freak references are in honor of FZ.
    D: SDTrans384 via I2S Teleporter-> Twisted Pear Audio Buffalo III DAC w Legato III I/V via XLR to Relaixed2 Preamp via XLR to Parasound A-21-> SDA-2.3 w/ RDO, Soniccrafts caps, Larry's Rings;
    A:Dynavector DV-10x5-> Nothingham Spacedeck-> TPA Retro via XLR to Relaixed2;

    C: Flac with Mediamonkey4 via coax SPDIF from Juli@24/192 -> Buffalo III
    V: Vinyl rips-> ESI Juli@24/192-> SPDIF-> Buffalo III

    SACD: Sony 333es via RCA

  27. #27

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    0.1 uf 200v x 6 Gen2 for the tweeters
    You do not want to use those. They are not needed when upgrading the crossover to superior film/foil caps and they will make your high end sound very odd.

    33 ohm 5w x 2
    There should be 4 total.

    22 ohm 5w x 2
    Should have used a 10 and 11.5 to get 22.5 as that .5 ohm makes a huge difference.
    Last edited by F1nut; 07-31-2010 at 12:17 AM.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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  28. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Should have used a 10 and 11.5 to get 22.5 as that .5 ohm makes a huge difference.
    I think you mean 10 and 12.5 to get 22.5

    Thanks for the heads up F1!

  29. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by cincycat13 View Post
    I think you mean 10 and 12.5 to get 22.5

    Thanks for the heads up F1!
    Yep, that's what I meant. Thanks for the correction. :)
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

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    Default 2.3 rebuild

    Thanks Jesse,
    I dont know why I missed the 22.5 ohm. I was following Carls list and didnt use the schematic when I got the order together. Soniccraft only has 12w in the 12.5 ohm. I have read people used 5w or 12w in the tweeter circuit. Isnt the 5w a better choice here? Quieter and less inductance? So 2 x 10 ohm 5w and 2 x 12.5 12w. Or 2 x 15 ohm 5w and 2 x 7.5 ohm 5w. I guess I can wait till they get here and measure them and see how close they are to 22.5 ohm. On the 33 ohm I have ordered 4 of them but didnt post it correctly. The 0.1 bypass caps that I ordered wont be used.
    Last edited by bikerboy; 08-02-2010 at 12:09 PM.

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