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Thread: Comp's MM6501

  1. #121

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    The two most important parts of your sound chain are, the hu and the speakers. Assuming of course that you're not running a processor.

    Some of the features to look at on a hu:
    1. 3 preouts
    2. A strong 4-5 volts preout signal
    3. Time alignment
    4. A min of 5-7 band eq, preferably a parametric eq. The more you have here the better. If you can get one where you can set left and right channels separately, that would be ideal.
    5. Ability to set an active 3 way network (sub/mid/tweet)

    A hu that gives you all these options, would allow you to really customise the sound to a very high quality level. Of course they would cost a bit more. Here are some options for instance.

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p4633/DEHP...h-wireless.htm

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p6464/DEHP...lity-Audio.htm

    It depends on what quality level you're aiming for. If you just want some tunes while driving around then the Kenny's you picked are fine. Although woofers has the excelon at 299. At least this gives you TA.

    http://www.woofersetc.com/p7741/KDCX...-Bluetooth.htm

    The other thing you can look at is to get the prs units used for around $200.
    Sweet. Thanks. I like the first one, but the other two not so much. I am only talking about how they look, the style that is. And I understand what you are saying as well. I have looked around to find some. Here is another one that I have selected. Please tell me what you think.

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...mpaign=froogle

    Are there any other brands out there that have the same things??

    Thanks.

  2. #122

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    You know that the more I look at the DEH-P800PRS I think I like it a little more, and has a little more features than the DEH-P980BT, minus the bluetooth. Which I guess I can always get a ear piece for that, and call it even. Plus the 800PRS has the BBE on it, which would mean I could get the CD-UB100, and that way I could still listen to my MP3's as well, as CD. Although the 800PRS is a little more expensive than the 980BT I think it would be more worth it. I also like the fact the the rca connection are not on the back of the unit, and would give me more room behind the HU with out bending my RCA's which is good. Hmmmm...... Decisions decisions.


    Thanks.

  3. #123

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    Quote Originally Posted by SivaNevets View Post
    my 6501 are starting to break in.. twisted with EQ and fader settings just now, oh man.. the mid bass is unbelievable..the MM840 blends PERFECTLY with the 6501...
    i mean, i dont usually enjoy music with hard beat, but my gf does. we played her rap collection haha its really fun. great night.
    Nice to know. Sorry I did not reply befor, got a lot going on. But that is good to know that they are breaking in well, and that they are delivering that kind of response. Which is what I am looking for. Keep us posted as they get broken in even more. In fact post a review on them as well, I would like to hear what you think....


    Thanks.

  4. #124

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    I run the p-80rs which is the the same thing as the p-800 and it is a phenomenal hu. I dont run any mp3 media, I don't even listen to FM. One other thing, this HU has probably the worst ipod interface. Other than that it is just an amazing unit.

  5. #125

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    I run the p-80rs which is the the same thing as the p-800 and it is a phenomenal hu. I dont run any mp3 media, I don't even listen to FM. One other thing, this HU has probably the worst ipod interface. Other than that it is just an amazing unit.
    Cool deal thanks. So, if I get this HU then I would not need an external processor?? I am trying to minimize the amount of eletronics in the truck. What I mean by that is; the more electronics you add, the more chances you have of something going wrong, and you then have to trace all the wires etc etc to find the problem. So, I am trying to keep that as simple as possbile.

    Well the good thing is that I dont have to get the adaptor for just the Ipod (which sucks any ways, and I dont really like apple stuff) there is one for USB flash drives. So, that would be the one I would get. Plus alot of the music I have are MP3's, plus this unit has BBE in it as well. Which will help with the compression of mp3's, and should help bring that CD sound back. I just have to save up for it now.

    Are there any other brands that you know of that offer these setting as well??

    Thanks.

  6. #126

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    Kaos, you were telling me that the Fry's in Plano didn't have the MM line installed. They do, and they have the SR 5250 installed right next to them. I went out there last night and listened to them both. I think you need to go out there and check them out. They are in the room with all the double-din head units. They don't have a good HU to run them off of as far as tonal controls go, but you can at least listen to them side by side (literally).

    For my ears, its no contest. The detail of the SR just obliterates the MM. They also have the SR for $349 at regular price. The MM 6.5 comps were $299, and though I'd go with the SR, the MM does have the punch you were wanting.

  7. #127

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Kaos, you were telling me that the Fry's in Plano didn't have the MM line installed. They do, and they have the SR 5250 installed right next to them. I went out there last night and listened to them both. I think you need to go out there and check them out. They are in the room with all the double-din head units. They don't have a good HU to run them off of as far as tonal controls go, but you can at least listen to them side by side (literally).

    For my ears, its no contest. The detail of the SR just obliterates the MM. They also have the SR for $349 at regular price. The MM 6.5 comps were $299, and though I'd go with the SR, the MM does have the punch you were wanting.
    Sweet. Thanks for that. I was going to call around today to see who had them. I am so there tonight. Hey quick question? Since I am going to go with a HU that has an active crossover, I dont need to get an external crossover right??

    So, if I dont have to get an external crossover, then I could run my front two comp speakers as active?? Provided I get a four channel amp that has at least 600 watts or power. I can run the tweets off the front two channels, and the woofers off the back two correct??

    Thanks.

  8. #128

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    All components are sold with a passive xover, which you won't need if you go active. You will need a 4ch am. You would roughly want to match the amps output to the rms watts the speakers can handle.

  9. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Sweet. Thanks for that. I was going to call around today to see who had them. I am so there tonight. Hey quick question? Since I am going to go with a HU that has an active crossover, I dont need to get an external crossover right??

    So, if I dont have to get an external crossover, then I could run my front two comp speakers as active?? Provided I get a four channel amp that has at least 600 watts or power. I can run the tweets off the front two channels, and the woofers off the back two correct??

    Thanks.
    Remember to bring your own CD. They don't have one worth a damn and you can't get any kind of feeds the way they are set up. You might be able to bring your mp3/ipod player with a usb or 3.5mm jack.

  10. #130

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Remember to bring your own CD. They don't have one worth a damn and you can't get any kind of feeds the way they are set up. You might be able to bring your mp3/ipod player with a usb or 3.5mm jack.
    True true. I plan on doing that today if I can. If not then I have tomorrow, and Friday off, along with the weekend. So, I should have plenty of time.

    Ok. So now going to back to when we did the audtion. Since you all are saying that I do not need back speakers just the comps in the front. What if I did like 8" in the back door along with the 12's?? You think that would be to much, or would the 8's bring out the mids a little more, and give me a little more depth??

    Thanks.
    Last edited by KaosTsoc; 08-18-2010 at 02:24 PM.

  11. #131

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    Yeah you are right. Just make sure you don't repeat the funky wiring, as that will toast your tweets quickly. Double and triple check the RCA's and speaker wires before you start messing with it. I'd also get a base setup on the active crossover on your head unit and make sure it is set up properly before you power the speakers. Read through the manual and make sure you know how to use it prior.

    All stuff I know you know, but doesn't hurt to reiterate.

  12. #132

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    All components are sold with a passive xover, which you won't need if you go active. You will need a 4ch am. You would roughly want to match the amps output to the rms watts the speakers can handle.
    Ok. So, I am correct in my thought then??


    Thanks.

  13. #133

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Yeah you are right. Just make sure you don't repeat the funky wiring, as that will toast your tweets quickly. Double and triple check the RCA's and speaker wires before you start messing with it. I'd also get a base setup on the active crossover on your head unit and make sure it is set up properly before you power the speakers. Read through the manual and make sure you know how to use it prior.

    All stuff I know you know, but doesn't hurt to reiterate.
    LOL. That was a learing curve if you will. So, I could do 8's in the back doors to get more mid bass, and leave the comps in the front, and I should be good to go.

    Ok, so if I do 8's in the back doors, any brand's come to mind?? Also if I do go this way I would need a 5 channel amp or 6??

    Thanks.

  14. #134

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. So now going to back to when we did the audtion. Since you all are saying that I do not need back speakers just the comps in the front. What if I did like 8" in the back door along with the 12's?? You think that would be to much, or would the 8's bring out the mids a little more, and give me a little more depth??

    Thanks.
    You're thinking about the 8" in the rear doors cause you want more bass than what you heard in DSkips car.

    To get that, you don't need an extra pair of 8" in the rear. Speakers located behind you will always pull your stage back and cause phasing, cancellation and smearing issues. In a home 2ch setup are the speakers ever placed behind you? The only time you will have speakers behind you are in a HT setup. Here the media is recorded for 5.1 or 7.1 etc. You're listening to audio cd's which are recorded for 2ch's. Left and right. You only need 1 pair of components and a sub for the low end frequencies which your 6.5" mid driver cannot hit.

    Now, if you were to listen to DSkips car again, with the sub/mid xover set at 63hz i/o 50hz and with say 80hz set flat, chances are you would not feel like you're lacking for bass. You would lose out on mid bass and midrange clarity, but you would have more bass. Different people like different types of sound, DSkips car is setup for the way he likes to listen. There is no issue if you like your sound with more bass. I'm just saying that you don't have to add additional drivers to get what you want.

    Two things to remember with sound,
    1. Everything is a trade off. You get something at the cost of something else.
    2. Less is always more. :)
    Last edited by arun1963; 08-19-2010 at 05:41 AM.

  15. #135

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    You're thinking about the 8" in the rear doors cause you want more bass than what you heard in DSkips car.

    To get that, you don't need an extra pair of 8" in the rear. Speakers located behind you will always pull your stage back and cause phasing, cancellation and smearing issues. In a home 2ch setup are the speakers ever placed behind you? The only time you will have speakers behind you are in a HT setup. Here the media is recorded for 5.1 or 7.1 etc. You're listening to audio cd's which are recorded for 2ch's. Left and right. You only need 1 pair of components and a sub for the low end frequencies which your 6.5" mid driver cannot hit.

    Now, if you were to listen to DSkips car again, with the sub/mid xover set at 63hz i/o 50hz and with say 80hz set flat, chances are you would not feel like you're lacking for bass. You would lose out on mid bass and midrange clarity, but you would have more bass. Different people like different types of sound, DSkips car is setup for the way he likes to listen. There is no issue if you like your sound with more bass. I'm just saying that you don't have to add additional drivers to get what you want.

    Two things to remember with sound,
    1. Everything is a trade off. You get something at the cost of something else.
    2. Less is always more. :)
    Ok. Thanks for that. I did not think about it like that. Hmmmm...... So, I guess to put this to bed for now. All I need is the one set comps in front, and the two 12's in the back, and I should be set. Thanks for that.

    Ok, now if ok I would like to change gears to subs. I have a post out here about the different types of subs I was wanting to to go with. In the list I had Polk:

    Polk Audio SR124-DVC

    Diamond Audio D612-12" dvc

    JBL GTO1214D

    Ascendant Audio Chaos 12" dvc

    Now these are just some of the subs that I have been looking at. So, tell me what you think, thoughts, and suggestions. I am thinking of going ported as well.


    Thanks.

  16. #136

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    SR124-DVC for sound quality i say.
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  17. #137

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    Quote Originally Posted by catch22atplay View Post
    SR124-DVC for sound quality i say.
    Well I am wanting to kind of do both worlds. SQ, and SPL, I would say almost 50/50 give or take depending on how I feel. The SR's are very good Dskip has a 10, and in a sealed box, and it sounded really good. So, I agree.


    Thanks.

  18. #138

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    I forgot to include that.. Should I go with a ploy, or mixed foam surround, or rubber surround on the sub???



    Thanks.

  19. #139

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    SivaNevets - you have similar system that I want to install in my SUV. Did you consider bi-amping the MM6501's? thnx You can PM me.

  20. #140

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    Passive crossover that comes with MM6501 is not bi-amp'able so unless you have an active x-over in either your headunit, amp or another external x-over you can't bi-amp MM6501.
    Basicaly you have to get a different x-over to bi-amp.

  21. #141

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    BTW - this was mentioned by a member on diyma, you might wanna look into that.
    According to him 2.7Ohms is "done" by MM's crossover since woofer is 2Ohm and tweeter is 4Ohm. You need to make sure you o-ver will be able to work with both ohm ratings (if it's true to begine with lol, call up Polk, they should help you out on this)

  22. #142

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    Glad you brought that up. If the MM woofer with out the crossover is 2ohm, and the tweets are 4. I am pretty sure that the the PDX F6 will be able to handle both loads. The specs show the amp is 2ohm, and 4ohm capable. I wont be using the passive xover though, and will be going active, since my HU has a three way 13 band crossover on it. I will call polk support to double check. Thanks again for the new info.



    Thanks.
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  23. #143

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    mm6501 is best known for its mid bass..with sufficient power and i want bi-amp MM6501.I have an active x-over in either your head
    unit

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