Are there any other brands out there that have the same things??
Are there any other brands out there that have the same things??
You know that the more I look at the DEH-P800PRS I think I like it a little more, and has a little more features than the DEH-P980BT, minus the bluetooth. Which I guess I can always get a ear piece for that, and call it even. Plus the 800PRS has the BBE on it, which would mean I could get the CD-UB100, and that way I could still listen to my MP3's as well, as CD. Although the 800PRS is a little more expensive than the 980BT I think it would be more worth it. I also like the fact the the rca connection are not on the back of the unit, and would give me more room behind the HU with out bending my RCA's which is good. Hmmmm...... Decisions decisions.
I run the p-80rs which is the the same thing as the p-800 and it is a phenomenal hu. I dont run any mp3 media, I don't even listen to FM. One other thing, this HU has probably the worst ipod interface. Other than that it is just an amazing unit.
Well the good thing is that I dont have to get the adaptor for just the Ipod (which sucks any ways, and I dont really like apple stuff) there is one for USB flash drives. So, that would be the one I would get. Plus alot of the music I have are MP3's, plus this unit has BBE in it as well. Which will help with the compression of mp3's, and should help bring that CD sound back. I just have to save up for it now.
Are there any other brands that you know of that offer these setting as well??
Kaos, you were telling me that the Fry's in Plano didn't have the MM line installed. They do, and they have the SR 5250 installed right next to them. I went out there last night and listened to them both. I think you need to go out there and check them out. They are in the room with all the double-din head units. They don't have a good HU to run them off of as far as tonal controls go, but you can at least listen to them side by side (literally).
For my ears, its no contest. The detail of the SR just obliterates the MM. They also have the SR for $349 at regular price. The MM 6.5 comps were $299, and though I'd go with the SR, the MM does have the punch you were wanting.
So, if I dont have to get an external crossover, then I could run my front two comp speakers as active?? Provided I get a four channel amp that has at least 600 watts or power. I can run the tweets off the front two channels, and the woofers off the back two correct??
All components are sold with a passive xover, which you won't need if you go active. You will need a 4ch am. You would roughly want to match the amps output to the rms watts the speakers can handle.
Ok. So now going to back to when we did the audtion. Since you all are saying that I do not need back speakers just the comps in the front. What if I did like 8" in the back door along with the 12's?? You think that would be to much, or would the 8's bring out the mids a little more, and give me a little more depth??
Last edited by KaosTsoc; 08-18-2010 at 03:24 PM.
Yeah you are right. Just make sure you don't repeat the funky wiring, as that will toast your tweets quickly. Double and triple check the RCA's and speaker wires before you start messing with it. I'd also get a base setup on the active crossover on your head unit and make sure it is set up properly before you power the speakers. Read through the manual and make sure you know how to use it prior.
All stuff I know you know, but doesn't hurt to reiterate.
Ok, so if I do 8's in the back doors, any brand's come to mind?? Also if I do go this way I would need a 5 channel amp or 6??
To get that, you don't need an extra pair of 8" in the rear. Speakers located behind you will always pull your stage back and cause phasing, cancellation and smearing issues. In a home 2ch setup are the speakers ever placed behind you? The only time you will have speakers behind you are in a HT setup. Here the media is recorded for 5.1 or 7.1 etc. You're listening to audio cd's which are recorded for 2ch's. Left and right. You only need 1 pair of components and a sub for the low end frequencies which your 6.5" mid driver cannot hit.
Now, if you were to listen to DSkips car again, with the sub/mid xover set at 63hz i/o 50hz and with say 80hz set flat, chances are you would not feel like you're lacking for bass. You would lose out on mid bass and midrange clarity, but you would have more bass. Different people like different types of sound, DSkips car is setup for the way he likes to listen. There is no issue if you like your sound with more bass. I'm just saying that you don't have to add additional drivers to get what you want.
Two things to remember with sound,
1. Everything is a trade off. You get something at the cost of something else.
2. Less is always more. :)
Last edited by arun1963; 08-19-2010 at 06:41 AM.
Ok, now if ok I would like to change gears to subs. I have a post out here about the different types of subs I was wanting to to go with. In the list I had Polk:
Polk Audio SR124-DVC
Diamond Audio D612-12" dvc
Ascendant Audio Chaos 12" dvc
Now these are just some of the subs that I have been looking at. So, tell me what you think, thoughts, and suggestions. I am thinking of going ported as well.
SR124-DVC for sound quality i say.
Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Quad Cab 2007
Pioneer DEX-P99RS, IPOD Touch 64gb, Rockford Fosgate T1000-4, T600-2 & T1500-1bd CP
Polk Audio SR speakers, 6.5's, 5.25's, SR tweets and 2 SR124-DVC subs in 1.57cu ft sealed enclosures
I forgot to include that.. Should I go with a ploy, or mixed foam surround, or rubber surround on the sub???
SivaNevets - you have similar system that I want to install in my SUV. Did you consider bi-amping the MM6501's? thnx You can PM me.
Passive crossover that comes with MM6501 is not bi-amp'able so unless you have an active x-over in either your headunit, amp or another external x-over you can't bi-amp MM6501.
Basicaly you have to get a different x-over to bi-amp.
BTW - this was mentioned by a member on diyma, you might wanna look into that.
According to him 2.7Ohms is "done" by MM's crossover since woofer is 2Ohm and tweeter is 4Ohm. You need to make sure you o-ver will be able to work with both ohm ratings (if it's true to begine with lol, call up Polk, they should help you out on this)
Glad you brought that up. If the MM woofer with out the crossover is 2ohm, and the tweets are 4. I am pretty sure that the the PDX F6 will be able to handle both loads. The specs show the amp is 2ohm, and 4ohm capable. I wont be using the passive xover though, and will be going active, since my HU has a three way 13 band crossover on it. I will call polk support to double check. Thanks again for the new info.
2006 Prerunner Access Cab
5 Speed 4 cycl 2wd
Pioneer P860 Head Unit
Polk Audio MM6501
Alpine PDX F-6
Alpine PDX M12
Kinetik HC2000 battery and Sleeve
200 Amp Mean Green High Output Alternator
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