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  1. #1

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    Default The Best amp for SR124dvc's?(Budget $350)

    I need another amp.Im looking for SQ.The one I currently have is too powerful...It's a Hifonics Bzr 1700.1.It's new and never been remove from plastic,wired,or bolted in a car but the box has been open.I wanna sell it.Im open to suggestions.Aq,Alpine....budget is under $350 US.Thanks:)

  2. #2

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    Someone help please?I don't wanna blow them ,but i still want to get an quality amp...SOMEONE LOL :(!

  3. #3

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    Adcom 555
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D

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    Quote Originally Posted by danz1906 View Post
    Adcom 555
    Lol...an Adcom 555 in the car?
    Truck setup
    Alpine 9856
    Phoenix Gold RSD65CS

    For Sale
    Polk SR6500
    Polk SR5250
    Polk SR104



    Quote Originally Posted by heiney9 View Post
    Any clue how to use the internet? Found it in about 10 sec.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kawizx9r View Post
    Lol...an Adcom 555 in the car?
    oops!
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by danz1906 View Post
    Adcom 555
    Wth is that?lol...

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marvelous Marv View Post
    Wth is that?lol...
    Don't worry about it :)


    If your current amp is putting out 1700 RMS, then what is your issue with using it on the SR subs?

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Don't worry about it :)


    If your current amp is putting out 1700 RMS, then what is your issue with using it on the SR subs?
    Im putting them in a sealed box and don't wanna over do it.Was reading on here about the lead wire breaking easily....Im just trying to avoid problems by not over doing it.

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    Just keep the gain down....and don't use bass boost.
    That will limit how sensitive your sub is to the watts, and the bass boost will keep it from getting to loud.
    So you can safely enjoy blissful SQ....
    Chances are anyway that amp does not put out 1700 RMS watts to that sub woofer.
    Receiver
    Harman Kardon HK 3490
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    Polk Audio Monitor 50s
    Subwoofer
    Polk Audio PSW 505
    Cables
    AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
    AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
    AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft
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    PS3
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by PerfectCreature View Post
    Just keep the gain down....and don't use bass boost.
    That will limit how sensitive your sub is to the watts, and the bass boost will keep it from getting to loud.
    So you can safely enjoy blissful SQ....
    Chances are anyway that amp does not put out 1700 RMS watts to that sub woofer.
    It does down to 1ohm.That's how im hooking up the dvc's.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marvelous Marv View Post
    It does down to 1ohm.That's how im hooking up the dvc's.
    I really doubt that. No disrespect indended, please. The reason I say that is because, in a perfect setting yes it would produce that much power.. However..... You are not taking into account that your vehicle is not a perfect setting. I mean when you run your A/C or heater, head lights etc you are taking away from the amp power, and thus the amp is not producing all of 1700 watts more like 1500 watts or something like that. Not only that but, most amps at there best are only about 70% efficient, and the lower you drop the ohm load the less efficient they become so, instead of 70% at 4 ohm, you would drop to like 60%-65% efficiency. So, yeah I dont think that, that amp is going to produce that much power. You would have to have the perfect setting in order to produce that power. Like no other electrical loads what so ever. Something to ponder.....

    And I also agree with a perfectcreature on the bass boost, and the gains. In order to set you gains correctly you need to find out how many volts you HU is putting out of the RCA's. You then need to set your amp to this so that when you play you HU at the desired volume, your amp is doing the same. As for bass boost you would only us that in a ported or bandpass box. Not to be used for a sealed box, plus a sub in sealed box can handle more power than a ported or bandpass box. This has to do with the free air movement. A sealed box is kind of like a spring behind the speaker, it give the speark resistance, and prevents the speaker from being over pushed, past the xmax of the speaker. Where a ported, or bandpass does not, and there is nothing to controll the xmax as much, and thus if you put a high powered amp on it, it would blow it. So, if you go with a ported box, then down sizing the amp power would be fine.

    thanks.
    Last edited by KaosTsoc; 08-17-2010 at 05:44 PM.

  12. #12

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    Much like what was said.
    Your amp, well...any amp rather hardly ever produces what is is rated for. To many factors come into play.
    Anyway, your sub woofer will be fine. If you want best SQ put it in a sealed box, bolt it to your trunk. Set your amp up. Turn your receiver a little over 3/4s....
    Say your receiver volume is 60? Turn it to about 48 or so...then turn the bass boost off. Turn the frequency controls off. Turn the gain to the volts of your receiver then slowly turn it up until you hear distortion or your sub become inaccurate or sounds odd. Back off the gain turn it down a bit. NOW. Turn your frequency stuff to where you want it....and RE TUNE....turn the gain up a little see if it distorts it does, turn it back down if not, turn it up until it does.
    Wait a week or so....if it is new, past the break in period and re tune.
    I would not recommend bass boosting more than 3-6 DB if you value your sub woofer. It takes twice the power to raise a sound a few decibel...just letting you know.
    Also....you better have a damn good alternator and a spare battery....if you are pushing 1700RMS along with all your other electrical stuff and God forbid another amp.

    If you want a new amp...try to find an amp pushing around 800 RMS and Class D will not sound as nice in some cases but they favor your car system, and most times the distortion is hardly audible.
    Receiver
    Harman Kardon HK 3490
    Speakers
    Polk Audio Monitor 50s
    Subwoofer
    Polk Audio PSW 505
    Cables
    AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
    AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
    AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft
    AudioQuest HDMI-1 2m

    PS3
    Samsung 42" 450 Series.

  13. #13

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    I don't know why he would drop from 1700 to 800, if he is in fact able to get that out of the amp. That would be going from a 120% of RMS power to less than 60% of RMS power supply. That is with the assumption that he is running dual SR124's. That is what I gathered from the title at least.

    If it is a single SR124, then that will make it a 2 ohm load, not a 1 ohm, and it would be getting roughly 800-850 RMS anyways. I really don't get why you think you need a new amp. The one you have is an ideal match for those subs (power-wise).

  14. #14

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    The vote is this. Keep your amp. Tune it right and just don't worry about it.
    What is the point of selling an amp just do downgrade, unless your case is like mine being the car can't handle the power demands....
    Anyway, if you car can handle it why go through the hassle?
    Receiver
    Harman Kardon HK 3490
    Speakers
    Polk Audio Monitor 50s
    Subwoofer
    Polk Audio PSW 505
    Cables
    AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
    AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
    AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft
    AudioQuest HDMI-1 2m

    PS3
    Samsung 42" 450 Series.

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    I agree as well.


    Thanks.

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    You all made great points,and i agree in all...But PerfectCreature hit it right on the money.Its the power demand on the car.Im going to have two amps the Hifonics 1700.1,and eclipse ea4200 60*4(switching this a Alpine PDX-F4 or Hifonics Zeus ZXi80.4).the HU im planning to get the alpine 105,but the type of HU PerfectCreature describe i would need a lot much features than this offers?.Polk Audio db comps ,db691's or other suggestions.As far as wire,batteries brands to go with and where to buy from am lost again...lol.The alt is 105 and looking for a 140 or 200 amp,or could i just add anther battery instead of going up to the 200amp alt?oh yea 0/1 gauge all around:D.Sorry but you guys are very helpful and im not trying to be annoying.Thanks again.

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marvelous Marv View Post
    You all made great points,and i agree in all...But PerfectCreature hit it right on the money.Its the power demand on the car.Im going to have two amps the Hifonics 1700.1,and eclipse ea4200 60*4(switching this a Alpine PDX-F4 or Hifonics Zeus ZXi80.4).the HU im planning to get the alpine 105,but the type of HU PerfectCreature describe i would need a lot much features than this offers?.Polk Audio db comps ,db691's or other suggestions.As far as wire,batteries brands to go with and where to buy from am lost again...lol.The alt is 105 and looking for a 140 or 200 amp,or could i just add anther battery instead of going up to the 200amp alt?oh yea 0/1 gauge all around:D.Sorry but you guys are very helpful and im not trying to be annoying.Thanks again.
    Ok. 0/1 awg is just fine. You could also do 4 or 2 awg as well. You need to do the big 3 upgrade as well. You could do a second batter, and if you take that route I would suggest an isolator so you dont drain the front battery, would also need an alt that would produce at least 140 amps. I mean you could get away with what you have for now, but an upgrade would be a good idea. Also would need to invest in at least one deep cycle battery as well. My rule of thumb is you dont want to risk any of your electircal. So, you are going to want to take the time to get that right.

    You know what go to the kenitic battery website, and give them a call. There is a guy by the name of david that will call you back, and would help you out alot. He knows batteries, and has helped me alot.

    Thanks

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by KaosTsoc View Post
    Ok. 0/1 awg is just fine. You could also do 4 or 2 awg as well. You need to do the big 3 upgrade as well. You could do a second batter, and if you take that route I would suggest an isolator so you dont drain the front battery, would also need an alt that would produce at least 140 amps. I mean you could get away with what you have for now, but an upgrade would be a good idea. Also would need to invest in at least one deep cycle battery as well. My rule of thumb is you dont want to risk any of your electircal. So, you are going to want to take the time to get that right.

    You know what go to the kenitic battery website, and give them a call. There is a guy by the name of david that will call you back, and would help you out alot. He knows batteries, and has helped me alot.

    Thanks
    ok thanks KaosTsoc.But what brand wire to go with?

  19. #19

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    Kicker, JL, Rockford Fosgate....they all make good wire. I use Kicker wire, just because I got a good deal on amazon.
    I would upgrade your car before I went out and bought wire. Wire is pricey....and what is the point of having all that wire and not using it.
    as for amps. Drop the extra cash and get the Alpine PDX amps they have a VERY small electrical footprint...from what I hear,.....
    Anyway...
    Receiver
    Harman Kardon HK 3490
    Speakers
    Polk Audio Monitor 50s
    Subwoofer
    Polk Audio PSW 505
    Cables
    AudioQuest Rocket 33s 10ft
    AudioQuest Optilink1 2m
    AudioQuest Alpha-Snake 25ft
    AudioQuest HDMI-1 2m

    PS3
    Samsung 42" 450 Series.

  20. #20

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    How much amperage that amp needs from your alt/battery?

    Class d amps are extremely efficient 90+%, and I would vote to keep that hifonics amp. And amps can never be too powerful for any sub, it all depends on the install. If you're sealing the sr, the sr would love that extra headroom.

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