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  1. #1

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    Default Fuse mod on 3.1's

    Hey all,

    Quick question... I am going to be doing XO upgrade soon and want to address another mod in the same process. I have a fuse inline to the tweets on my SRS 3.1's. The 3.1's DO NOT have poly switches! Thats NOT my question. My question is this:
    presently they ARE fused inline inside the cabinet, thus any time I want access to it I have to remove a tweeter. Since I will be doing XO's plus RINGS, why couldnt I not install this down where the speakers binding posts are?

    Note: I will create a seal with silicone to seal the pod! :D

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062230

    I will be runing this down at the bottom on the binding plate but will have to ADD an extension of wire to the fuse and back up to the tweet.
    1)Is this acceptable? Will the extra length of wire create a problem?
    2)My speakers are rated for 500 watts and they have that OEM 18 or 14 gauge wire runing to componets. What gives? Should that wiring be upgraded and replaced as well? opinions are always welcome

    Thanks for looking,
    Matt
    Last edited by TrashyTrucker; 09-05-2010 at 05:57 PM.
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...

  2. #2

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    I remember you saying that you had blown a tweet or two in another post. Was this done with your present amplification? Either one of those amps should drive your speakers with ease and with low risk of blowing a tweeter. Unless you REALLY drive them hard.

    My opinion would be to eliminate the fuse completely. I drove my 3.1s with a single Acurus A250 and never had a problem with clipping or frying drivers.

    stubby
    SDA SRS
    Denon POA 2400
    Rotel RSP 1068





  3. #3

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    If Stubby is right that you have blown tweeters before and if I'm right in understanding that you added fuses to deal with that issue I think you either need a better amp(s) or need to turn it down. Fuses are not the answer.

    The stock wiring is fine.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by stubby View Post
    Unless you REALLY drive them hard.

    My opinion would be to eliminate the fuse completely. I drove my 3.1s with a single Acurus A250 and never had a problem with clipping or frying drivers.
    stubby
    Stubby,
    I cant remember which amp I had at the time. It has been a many of years since I have experienced this problem. However fuses ARE much cheaper than tweets! As you may already know LOL! What my main question is: will this mod damage anything except a hole in binding post plate and the extra length added to the wire?
    thanks,
    Matt
    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    or need to turn it down. Fuses are not the answer.

    The stock wiring is fine.
    Thankyou for both of your fast reply(s) Jesse :p
    I am also grateful and really do appreciate you guys' opinion(s).
    However I am inclined to leave the fuse in line. But as afore mentioned to Stubby, my MAIN concern is this mod going to damage OR hinder performance in ANY way? ie...the hole and adding wire to Original equipment?

    NOTE: I do realize this is a matter of choice, however I am asking for help and asking you(s) to mentor me with the other mods. I just sleep better knowing I have a added this safety net!

    Matt
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...

  5. #5

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    I would leave it the way it is,,or remove the fuse entirely.Many of us here have no tweeter protection(polys replaced with resistors). Of course,,one needs to be prudent with the volume control--or,,here's the fun part,,,get a more powerful/high current amp--or--now it gets better-- tube amps--- oh mama,,, tubes add excitement.. Let us know what you do--and have fun.:)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)

  6. #6

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    Matt, it's not going to hurt anything per se. By adding the fuse you have already added a bit more resistance in the circuit, so if you are happy with the sound of the highs now, it shouldn't be any different doing what you propose. Don't use silicone to seal the fuse holder, use hotglue.

    I run my SDA's, which can reach dangerous to the ears sound pressure levels, without polys or fuses and have never damaged a tweeter. Clean, high current power is your friend.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    Matt, it's not going to hurt anything per se. By adding the fuse you have already added a bit more resistance in the circuit, so if you are happy with the sound of the highs now, it shouldn't be any different doing what you propose. Don't use silicone to seal the fuse holder, use hotglue.

    I run my SDA's, which can reach dangerous to the ears sound pressure levels, without polys or fuses and have never damaged a tweeter. Clean, high current power is your friend.
    Nothing like a good KRELL, MCINTOSH, or HALO amp to power the sda's.
    I'm partial to KRELL for my amplification needs.
    SRT For Life; SDA Forever!

    The SRT SEISMIC System:
    Four main satellite speakers, six powered subs, two dedicated for LFE channel, two center speakers for over/under screen placement and three Control Centers. Amaze your friends, terrorize your neighbors, seize the audio bragging rights for your state. Go ahead, buy it; you only go around once.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by F1nut View Post
    ... By adding the fuse you have already added a bit more resistance in the circuit, so if you are happy with the sound of the highs now... Clean, high current power is your friend.
    Quote Originally Posted by ESavinon View Post
    Nothing like a good KRELL, MCINTOSH, or HALO amp to power the sda's.
    I'm partial to KRELL for my amplification needs.
    Thanks guys but now a NEW problem has risen!
    My right tweeter has a longer delay to come on now that wasnt there before. IE... I have the 3.1's biamped and everything powers on but the right tweeter. then it will come on. BUT it is raspy,and will clean up. The amp displays power out the whole time. I removed the inline fuse but to no avail it still persists. Could it be a XO problem (due to age)or does this sound like a defective tweeter?
    Past upgrades RDO's
    New heavy speaker wire

    what does this sound like?
    had this problem once before with the left but it went away.
    Thanks for looking, calling Sonicraft tommorrow.

    Matt
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...

  9. #9

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    Just for fun, swap your amps around and see if the problem persists. If the delay stays with the tweeter, I would say you have a poor connection somewhere in the tweeter circuit. If it moves to the MWs, it is probably the amp.

    stubby

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by stubby View Post
    ... If the delay stays with the tweeter, I would say you have a poor connection somewhere in the tweeter circuit...

    stubby

    Stubby,
    Gosh cant believe it was something that simple! I feel relieved but also somewhat silly. Thats all it seems to be was a cable was not making good contact. LOL
    I did not move the amps around as you suggested. However when I unhooked and reattached the cables to the amp which supplys the highs' that cured it. Also in the process I REMOVED the fuses, so I guess I may not be reinstalling them again afterall.

    Thankyou for reminding to everyone here how big of a NewB i really am. :o LOL
    Thanks Stubby.
    BTW talked with Sonicraft today about my order on the XO upgrade :D
    Should be hearing from them real soon.

    Matt (resident NewB)
    Last edited by TrashyTrucker; 09-07-2010 at 05:28 PM. Reason: Brain Fart
    Integra DTR 50.2 used as a preamp
    Rotel RCD 1520 cdp
    AudioQuest Jaguar 72v dbs ic's
    AudioQuest type 8 wire
    biamped to:
    2-Hafler 9500 trans nova's
    AudioQuest NRG-3 power cable's
    dedicated AC line for
    Tesla Plex 20a duplex receptacle
    Panamax Max 7500 pro surge/line conditioner
    SDA SRS 3.1 TL's modded...
    spikes, rdo's, rings, dynamat, sonicaps, mills & aeon
    Panasonic Viera G20 50" plasma


    ...SDA's are just like candy for your ears...

  11. #11

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    Glad to hear it was something simple, Matt! Even if they can be a little embarrasing, I would rather have easy problems ANY day. Good for you removing the fuses. You may notice a bit more detail without them.

    You are gonna love those speakers after the XO job. The 3.1s were probably the best/most balanced speakers I have ever owned.

    stubby

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