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  1. #1

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    Default Just pulled the trigger on the SR5250

    I just pulled the trigger on a set of SR5250's and need some guidance on where to go from here.

    I'm fairly experienced when it comes to home audio, but pretty clueless when it comes to car audio. I feel like I've hit a point of diminishing returns with my home audio system (others may disagree), and have decided to focus on the area where I spend 2 hours of my day 5 days a week enjoying music: in my car.

    I love the Polk LSi's and really could ask for more out of them...which made the Polk SR's a very natural choice for my car (08 Acura MDX). My intention is for this to be a very SQ oriented system...I don't anticipate ever playing this system very loudly. I'll be keeping the stock head-unit, as I prefer to keep the stock aesthetics/functionality of the vehicle. Not sure they make a dash kit for the MDX anyway (haven't seen one).

    My next step from here will be an amp, but I'm not at all familiar with car audio equipment. What are some good recommendations as far as an amplifier, without spending too much (I'm thinking <300). I know with the LSi's, synergy with the amplifier is important...does this apply with the SR's as well? Are there any amps that have a particularly good musical synergy with the SR's?

    Over the next year I'd like to pick up a sub and a processor as well...any recommendations on that end would be greatly appreciated as well. In terms of the sub, the MDX already comes with a crappy 8-inch subwoofer. Is there a practical way of upgrading the driver and using the stock 'enclosure'? I have a fairly massive home theater sub so I certainly appreciate the benefits of a large enclosure, but I need the space in the MDX (hence me buying an SUV) and again, prefer to keep things looking stock.
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  2. #2

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    Congrats on the purchase!! You will not be disappointed.


    You definitely need to invest in some DSP if you are shooting for 2 channel sound. Consider locations for those tweets that will be on-axis. Since you already have the LSi's, you should know how directional that tweeter is.

    As far as an amp, get one that can power them properly and has a reputable name. One thing to look for (since you are going w/ a stock head unit) is a high crossover network. Every amp should have a crossover selectable from around 50-200. If you can find one at a good price that goes up to 5kish, you should be able to run active and have even more tuning power.


    More will chime in. Congrats again. A great investment IMO.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by DSkip View Post
    Congrats on the purchase!! You will not be disappointed.


    You definitely need to invest in some DSP if you are shooting for 2 channel sound. Consider locations for those tweets that will be on-axis. Since you already have the LSi's, you should know how directional that tweeter is.

    As far as an amp, get one that can power them properly and has a reputable name. One thing to look for (since you are going w/ a stock head unit) is a high crossover network. Every amp should have a crossover selectable from around 50-200. If you can find one at a good price that goes up to 5kish, you should be able to run active and have even more tuning power.


    More will chime in. Congrats again. A great investment IMO.
    Thanks.

    Looks like the pioneer GM-D9500F fits the bill.

    Any thoughts?
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  4. #4

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    Here's another question:

    Since the recommendation is to use the active cross-over on an amp in lieu of the passive crossovers supplied with the SR5250, are there any disadvantages to picking up the individual VIFA rind radiator tweeters and mid-range drivers that make up the SR5250 from parts express instead of buying the Polk branded counter-parts? Seems like a MUCH cheaper route.
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    If you're chasing the Lsi 9 sound, you will need a ton of tuning options and flexibility to correct for all that's wrong in a car. I know you mentioned that you want to run the stock hu, which is why Dskip recommended an amp that allows an active network. I don't think that Pio amp lets you go active though.

    But an active network, is only one part of the solution. There's a lot more you need to correct for, which you can't do without changing the hu. The only other way you'll get close, is to hook up the $800 MS-8 to your stock unit.

    Sure, you can use diy drivers. The vifa ring radiators are very close to the sr RR's. The greatness about the sr series is that the mid driver is as good as the tweet. So I'd be carefull while picking a mid to go with the vifa. However, I thought you already bought the sr's.
    Last edited by arun1963; 12-17-2010 at 12:04 PM.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    If you're chasing the Lsi 9 sound, you will need a ton of tuning options and flexibility to correct for all that's wrong in a car. I know you mentioned that you want to run the stock hu, which is why Dskip recommended an amp that allows an active network. I don't think that Pio amp lets you go active though.

    But an active network, is only one part of the solution. There's a lot more you need to correct for, which you can't do without changing the hu. The only other way you'll get close, is to hook up the $800 MS-8 to your stock unit.
    I sat down with a local installer today and he gave me the low-down on everything car audio related (I'll be doing the install myself, but just needed to get 'schooled' a bit first). You're right....there's certainly a lot to consider, particularly since I'm deadset on keeping the stock HU. A processor with an active cross-over equalizer is on my short list..

    For now I'd just like to get everything running, realizing there will be a lot of limitations. In the meantime are there any serious risks to using the supplied passive cross-overs with the stock HU and aftermarket amplifier? I know there's a risk of distortion, and just a flat out bad signal from the stock head-unit, but is there any risk of say....frying an amp, or blowing a tweet?
    Last edited by mystik610; 12-17-2010 at 01:51 PM.
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  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by mystik610 View Post
    For now I'd just like to get everything running, realizing there will be a lot of limitations. In the meantime are there any serious risks to using the supplied passive cross-overs with the stock HU and aftermarket amplifier? I know there's a risk of distortion, and just a flat out bad signal from the stock head-unit, but is there any risk of say....frying an amp, or blowing a tweet?
    As long as your amp accepts speaker level inputs and lets you set the gains accordingly, you should be fine.

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    Check out the JL Audio Clean Sweep as well. Theyre about $300 but theyll take your speaker inputs, flatten out the EQ curve that it put in to the signal from the factory source, boost it by 8 volts and send it out to your amp.

    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=79

    The Rockford Fosgate 360 does roughly the same thing. The 360.2 does it while giving you a pretty extensive set of tuning features.

    http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...s.asp?cat_id=1
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  9. #9

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    double post
    Last edited by mystik610; 12-18-2010 at 07:01 AM.
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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    Check out the JL Audio Clean Sweep as well. Theyre about $300 but theyll take your speaker inputs, flatten out the EQ curve that it put in to the signal from the factory source, boost it by 8 volts and send it out to your amp.

    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_c...php?page_id=79

    The Rockford Fosgate 360 does roughly the same thing. The 360.2 does it while giving you a pretty extensive set of tuning features.

    http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...s.asp?cat_id=1
    Thanks!

    I saw those but am most interested in this since it has internal channel summing and 3-way active cross-over controls:

    http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5247...rocessing.html

    any thoughts on it?
    Last edited by mystik610; 12-18-2010 at 07:04 AM.
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  11. #11

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    If you can afford that, its definitely the way to go. 1/3 octave EQ per channel is worth it alone IMO!
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  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    If you can afford that, its definitely the way to go. 1/3 octave EQ per channel is worth it alone IMO!
    lol can't afford it right now after the SR's and amp. Its on my short list though!
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  13. #13

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    Its kind of a pain to use cause the remote sucks but its still worth it if youre a tweaker.

    If youre wanting a plug and play setup and arent really gonna be doing a whole lot of tuning, the JL is the better piece simply because itll flatten out the factory EQ and bump the signal up 8 volts. Thats as close to the passive signal out of a set of RCA's as you can get. No EQ though.
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  14. #14

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    I finally got everything hooked up. I ended up picking up an Audiocontrol LC6i line-output converter....I'll spring for something with an active crossover and equalizer eventually, but this does the job so far.

    I'm happy with the results...not anywhere as good as my LSi9's at home, but I suspect some tweaking will make it sound better. I stuck the tweeters in the cut-out where the stock tweeters went, and could tell right away it was a mistake. This effectively had the tweeters pointed at an angle towards the windshield. I was trying to keep things stock looking, but tomorrow I'll stick them in the tweeter pods and aim them at the listening area.

    I definitely need to deaden the doors though. I'm not getting any rattles, but the reverberations from the hollow door really ruins the mid-bass IMO.

    My upgraditis had hit a plateau in my HT, but it looks like I just opened up a can of worms in my truck....
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    Quote Originally Posted by mystik610 View Post
    I finally got everything hooked up. I ended up picking up an Audiocontrol LC6i line-output converter....I'll spring for something with an active crossover and equalizer eventually, but this does the job so far.

    I'm happy with the results...not anywhere as good as my LSi9's at home, but I suspect some tweaking will make it sound better. I stuck the tweeters in the cut-out where the stock tweeters went, and could tell right away it was a mistake. This effectively had the tweeters pointed at an angle towards the windshield. I was trying to keep things stock looking, but tomorrow I'll stick them in the tweeter pods and aim them at the listening area.

    I definitely need to deaden the doors though. I'm not getting any rattles, but the reverberations from the hollow door really ruins the mid-bass IMO.

    My upgraditis had hit a plateau in my HT, but it looks like I just opened up a can of worms in my truck....
    Bring plenty of bottled water... its a long journey!

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