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  1. #1

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    Default Current / power wire gauge calculator

    I just finished this JavaScript and while I'll be loading it on my website soon, I have no yet exactly finished Mr. Website...lol... but i figured some of you could put it to good use until then...

    JUST CLICK on the below file "test.txt" and microsoft internet explorer (and hopefully netscape too) will open it properly... i haven't had a chance to test it in netscape 6 yet so if anyone uses NS6 letme know how it works...

    What you do is type in your amplifiers... the power rating for each... like a 75 x 4 four channel amp being run at 4 ohm stereo front and rear would be 75 x 4 = " 300 " entered into the field.

    a 75 x 4 being run at 2 ohms stereo would be written in as 150 x 4 = " 600 " entered into the field.

    u get the idea.. basically just enter your amp's rated wattage at the load you're running it at and then also at the bottom you can adjust the vehicle power supply voltage... it's preset at 13.8 (so kicker / rockford people will be happy) but feel free to bump it up to 14.4 if your ampslifiers are rated at 14.4 volts.

    the efficiency ratings were a bitch to really nail down but i'd just about swear by them now, however if your amp's paperwork states differently, then adjust them... dont worry about hte originals they'll reset themself everytime u hit the re-set button.

    the output "nominal draw" will be the normal current draw for the system at top power, and is what should be used for determining power wire gauge.

    now if only i could find some hard core on paper write up of current capacity per gauge of wire...

    lemme know if i should add anything to this...

    thanks
    -vinnie

    ps... and yes i wrote it all myself from code -- no stinky friggin programs here... just me and code :)
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    Last edited by PoweredByDodge; 07-26-2003 at 09:34 PM.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
    - Anurag

  2. #2

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    Default

    if u're wondering the base equations go something like this.

    nominal current draw per class =

    (output wattage at supply voltage) / ( (given efficiency of amp class) * (supply voltage))

    total nominal output = summation (nominal output per class)

    peak current is a function akin to...
    (output wattage at supply voltage) / (efficiency * 0.75 * (supply voltage))

    peak output power being... RMS power / 0.75 (rough estimate)


    ... the only real problem i ran into was juding efficiency of AB amps... something like USamps is nearly 67 or better percent efficient while that old Optimus I've got is more around 63%... hence the 65% compromise... the accuracy of the D is much better at 85% (i never knew till i really started digging.. i always thought it was like 90% or better).

    ... class A's are a nightmare -- i read varying reviews from 26 up to 35 % efficient... so i plugged it at 30 and called it a day.


    i'm just glad this will finally hopefully help put an end to people judging current totals by adding up fuses... i really friggin hate that.
    Last edited by PoweredByDodge; 07-26-2003 at 09:49 PM.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
    - Anurag

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