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  1. #1

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    Default Recommendation for surrounds please ?

    Hi all,

    I'm running RTIA9`s as front and CSIA6 as center, please, what would you recommend for the surrounds ?

    I only listen to Blu-Ray of rock-guitar oriented music. Now my system is powered by an old YAMAHA receiver, but I'm considering upgrading to a HD one in the range of 125W maximum per channel.

    My listening room is 4.5 x 5 meters.

    Thanks,

    Mongo

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm running RTIA9`s as front and CSIA6 as center, please, what would you recommend for the surrounds ?

    I only listen to Blu-Ray of rock-guitar oriented music. Now my system is powered by an old YAMAHA receiver, but I'm considering upgrading to a HD one in the range of 125W maximum per channel.

    My listening room is 4.5 x 5 meters.

    Thanks,

    Mongo
    Do you have a preference or room constraint for size or placement of surrounds? Meaning towers or bookshelves for surrounds?

    Budget?

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.

  3. #3

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    No, no constraints, I'm open minded, it`s just a research now;

    Thanks, Mongo
    Receiver: Marantz - SR6006
    Main: RTi A9 (powered by 2 Emotiva XPA-1`s)
    Center: CSi A6
    Surrounds: FXiA6
    (center and surrounds powered by Emotiva XPA-5)
    Subwoofer: Infinity PS312
    TV Toshiba 46"

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mongo View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm running RTIA9`s as front and CSIA6 as center, please, what would you recommend for the surrounds ?

    I only listen to Blu-Ray of rock-guitar oriented music. Now my system is powered by an old YAMAHA receiver, but I'm considering upgrading to a HD one in the range of 125W maximum per channel.

    My listening room is 4.5 x 5 meters.

    Thanks,

    Mongo
    Look into a pair of FXiA6's mounted on the wall. If you prefer towers, look into a pair of RTiA5's. They make fine side surrounds.

    Make sure your new receiver has preamp outputs so you can add an external amplifier. The RTiA9's sound much better with more power.

    Main HT/2 ch:
    Pioneer KRP-500M, SC-07, BDP-05FD, Emotiva XPA-5 x 2, XPA-1 x 2,
    Polk Audio LSi25, RTi12 x 2, LSi15 x 4, LSiC x 2, PSW1000 x 4,

    MB HT/ 2 ch:
    LG 47LM5800, Pioneer VSX-9040TXH, BDP-23FD, Sony BDP-S790, Emotiva XPA-2, XPA-5,
    Polk Audio LSi25, LSi15, CSi5, LSiFX, PSW505 x 4

    Listening Room 2 ch:
    Emotiva RSP-2, RPA-1, ERC-2, Pro-Ject RM5.1, Focal Chorus 814V, DSW600
    Adcom GCD 750, GFP 750, GFA 5802, Polk LSi9, DSW600

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by xcapri79 View Post
    Make sure your new receiver has preamp outputs so you can add an external amplifier. The RTiA9's sound much better with more power.
    Please, what do you mean by "pre amp outputs" ? I've noticed that the RTIA9 has a separate connection for dual feed (by removing the golden bypass), but I am unfamiliar with this approach and would like more details please.

    Thanks,

    Mongo
    Receiver: Marantz - SR6006
    Main: RTi A9 (powered by 2 Emotiva XPA-1`s)
    Center: CSi A6
    Surrounds: FXiA6
    (center and surrounds powered by Emotiva XPA-5)
    Subwoofer: Infinity PS312
    TV Toshiba 46"

  6. #6

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    Pre-amp outputs would be on the back of your Audio/Video Receiver.

    If your AVR has pre-amp outputs, it would allow you to run cables from your AVR to an external amplifier of better quality than your AVR to provide better/more power and so better sound quality to your RTiA9s. You would then connect your RTiA9s to the external amplifier.

    As for surrounds, if you primarily listen to music based sources, then direct radiating speakers may be a better choice as they provide better sound location than dipole/bipole speakers.

    And if you have no room or budget constraints - why not go for RTiA9s for your surrounds. If you don't like the size of towers for surrounds, then go for RTiA1 or RTiA3 bookshelves and wall mount them if your room permits.

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Tracy View Post
    Pre-amp outputs would be on the back of your Audio/Video Receiver.

    If your AVR has pre-amp outputs, it would allow you to run cables from your AVR to an external amplifier of better quality than your AVR to provide better/more power and so better sound quality to your RTiA9s. You would then connect your RTiA9s to the external amplifier.

    As for surrounds, if you primarily listen to music based sources, then direct radiating speakers may be a better choice as they provide better sound location than dipole/bipole speakers.

    And if you have no room or budget constraints - why not go for RTiA9s for your surrounds. If you don't like the size of towers for surrounds, then go for RTiA1 or RTiA3 bookshelves and wall mount them if your room permits.
    Thanks for the info, Erik. Regarding my choice for surrounds, as I only listen to music, that`s exactly my doubt: wouldn`t the RTI3 be a better choice than the surrounded-oriented built FXIA6 ??

    I believe that the FXIA6 may be a better choice for movie effects, but maybe not for music...

    I would like to hear more opinions. BTW, while we are at it, I'm in Canada, and retailers here are not as available as they are in the US. Does anyone know the MODEL of the stands that the RTIA3 and FXIA6 require, and where to buy them in Canada ?

    I've looked everywhere for the stands, no luck.

    Thanks, Mongo
    Receiver: Marantz - SR6006
    Main: RTi A9 (powered by 2 Emotiva XPA-1`s)
    Center: CSi A6
    Surrounds: FXiA6
    (center and surrounds powered by Emotiva XPA-5)
    Subwoofer: Infinity PS312
    TV Toshiba 46"

  8. #8

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    I live in Canada,and ended up making stands for my surrounds out of wood. If you don't mind working with wood let me know and I will tell you how to do it. They are very stable as you add weight to the bottom of the stands from the inside. They are painted Black and blend in with my RTi Towers. They remind you of the RTiA5 speakers at first glance due to the height of the stands.

  9. #9

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    I live in Canada and ended up making stands for my Rti surrounds out of wood. They are very stable as you add weight to the inside enclosure. I painted them Black and they blend in very well with my RTi10 Towers. You can get the perfect height for surrounds doing it this way, so if you want details, let me know.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by larry777 View Post
    I live in Canada and ended up making stands for my Rti surrounds out of wood. They are very stable as you add weight to the inside enclosure. I painted them Black and they blend in very well with my RTi10 Towers. You can get the perfect height for surrounds doing it this way, so if you want details, let me know.
    Oh yes, please, send the instructions,

    Thanks, Mongo
    Receiver: Marantz - SR6006
    Main: RTi A9 (powered by 2 Emotiva XPA-1`s)
    Center: CSi A6
    Surrounds: FXiA6
    (center and surrounds powered by Emotiva XPA-5)
    Subwoofer: Infinity PS312
    TV Toshiba 46"

  11. #11

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    Go buy 4 stair treads at your building supply ( I know it sounds crazy but follow me on this ok ) and enough 2 x 8 ( look for good smooth wood ) to equal the length of the stair treads + a little extra. These treads are your sides with the rounded side facing towards the front....cut to the lenght you want your base to be where your speaker will sit when completed. Cut the 2 X 8's to equal the length of these treads. Now you can start putting them together. your back 2 X 8 is used to attach the treads together from the back....flush with the treads. You stand the treads up against a wall if necessary to make sure they will be level before attaching the 2 X 8's. Use finish nails with the small heads as they can be sunk in and are not seen...fill the small hole with caulking compound if you wish before painting. Countersink the front 2 x 8 so you can see the rounded front of the treads about 1/4 inch to give you a better look. Again attach with these nails to make the stand strong. Now cut a piece of 2 X 8 to fit in the bottom flush with the floor...use a level as you go so the stands are flush with the floor and straight. Go get yourself 2 or 4 (4 litre ) cranburry or other juice and when emptied fill them with gravel or sand etc....this is your weight to keep the stands stable in case someone bumps into them... Lower these filled juice bottles into your stands...they fit good....then put your top 2 x 8 between your boards using the nails. This becomes your shelf that your speaker sits on. Paint them black and they really look nice. Very strong and very stable. Set your speakers on the base....the rubber feet hold pretty good. But to ancher them to the stand run your speaker wire down the back of the wood to the floor and use Duct tape along the length of the wire...reinforce the first strip with 2 more along its edges. If someone bumps into the speaker it now has nowhere to go. I tried this myself as a project and was surprised by the results and I still use them. Stands that I bought are still in the closet...... Not Expensive.....but wicked strong and the actual height that I wanted for stands.....they also look very good believe it or not and the weight in the bottom keeps them very stable. If bumped they automatically want to go back to the upright position.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by larry777 View Post
    Go buy 4 stair treads at your building supply ( I know it sounds crazy but follow me on this ok ) and enough 2 x 8 ( look for good smooth wood ) to equal the length of the stair treads + a little extra. These treads are your sides with the rounded side facing towards the front....cut to the lenght you want your base to be where your speaker will sit when completed. Cut the 2 X 8's to equal the length of these treads. Now you can start putting them together. your back 2 X 8 is used to attach the treads together from the back....flush with the treads. You stand the treads up against a wall if necessary to make sure they will be level before attaching the 2 X 8's. Use finish nails with the small heads as they can be sunk in and are not seen...fill the small hole with caulking compound if you wish before painting. Countersink the front 2 x 8 so you can see the rounded front of the treads about 1/4 inch to give you a better look. Again attach with these nails to make the stand strong. Now cut a piece of 2 X 8 to fit in the bottom flush with the floor...use a level as you go so the stands are flush with the floor and straight. Go get yourself 2 or 4 (4 litre ) cranburry or other juice and when emptied fill them with gravel or sand etc....this is your weight to keep the stands stable in case someone bumps into them... Lower these filled juice bottles into your stands...they fit good....then put your top 2 x 8 between your boards using the nails. This becomes your shelf that your speaker sits on. Paint them black and they really look nice. Very strong and very stable. Set your speakers on the base....the rubber feet hold pretty good. But to ancher them to the stand run your speaker wire down the back of the wood to the floor and use Duct tape along the length of the wire...reinforce the first strip with 2 more along its edges. If someone bumps into the speaker it now has nowhere to go. I tried this myself as a project and was surprised by the results and I still use them. Stands that I bought are still in the closet...... Not Expensive.....but wicked strong and the actual height that I wanted for stands.....they also look very good believe it or not and the weight in the bottom keeps them very stable. If bumped they automatically want to go back to the upright position.
    Thanks a lot,

    Mongo
    Receiver: Marantz - SR6006
    Main: RTi A9 (powered by 2 Emotiva XPA-1`s)
    Center: CSi A6
    Surrounds: FXiA6
    (center and surrounds powered by Emotiva XPA-5)
    Subwoofer: Infinity PS312
    TV Toshiba 46"

  13. #13

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    Glad to help, and good luck if you decide to try them. 2 X 6 will also work but for the speakers you want to use, the 2 X 8's are likely best to provide a bigger base area. Your back board goes flush " Between the Treads " .. as will your front board when countersunk between the treads in the front.

  14. #14

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    ok so back to quesiton get rti4 or fxi. I would like too hear the answer as well for OP

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by robert0507 View Post
    ok so back to quesiton get rti4 or fxi. I would like too hear the answer as well for OP
    If it were me and music was the primary use - RTi4s.

    If the application is more movies with several seats spread about the viewing room - FXis.

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.

  16. #16

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    How does RTi4 compare to Monitor 40 or TSi200 for fronts? Primarily for music (75%) and movies (25%).

  17. #17

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    I matched my RTia'5s with the Rtia'3s they sound awesome had both for only a week and to break them in I have been increasing the volume more and more each day. I bet the Rtia9's you have would go great with the Rtia5's no need for stands. I bet that will raise the hair on the back of your neck, and your neighbors. I just put on Steely Dan Aja and these Rti's are sounding great!!!
    Last edited by gudnoyez; 03-06-2011 at 12:59 PM.
    Up Stairs Wife Approved
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by anilksharma View Post
    How does RTi4 compare to Monitor 40 or TSi200 for fronts? Primarily for music (75%) and movies (25%).
    RTi4s for music...all day long...

    H9: If you don't trust what you are hearing, then maybe you need to be less invested in a hobby which all the pleasure comes from listening to music.

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