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  1. #1

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    Exclamation New Floor & Sub setup, few questions.

    Hey folks, glad I found this forum today. I've been poking around here all morning and have found some conflicting answers so I figured I'd post.

    I'm currently running an H/K AVR-247 with an Yamaha 5.1 satellite/sub setup.

    I'm going to ditch that in favor of a stereo setup in the new living room. I've already picked up a PSW10 and I'm tossing between the TSI300 and TSI400. I'm thinking that the extra driver in the TSI400 doesn't seem necessary since I'm adding in the sub.

    Thoughts on this setup (TSI300 or TSI400)?

    I've already found some reading on bi-wiring/bi-amping and if I am reading it correctly, running the same channel output (L or R) to both of the terminal pairs on the speakers will increase clarity?

    Thanks in advance for the help.

  2. #2

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    Hi, Bobbo. You're looking at some good speakers, and both will do the job. The 400s play a little lower, are a tad more sensitive, and will produce a larger soundstage. But, that said, the 300s are nice too.

    Are you married to the PSW10? How long ago did you get it?

    As for bi-wiring/bi-amping, they're different things, so let's take them on one at at time:

    Bi-wiring: This means you're still only using one amp per speaker, but running two sets of wires, thereby increasing the wire gage and, theoretically, improving the power flow. It's easier with your speakers, since there are two sets of binding posts. Is it worthwhile? I think most people choose to do this because it costs nearly nothing.

    Bi-amping: This means you've actually got two separate amps, one for the tweeters and one for the mid-woofs. The main advantage here, IMHO, is that you can choose different characteristics for the highs and mid-lows. But does bi-amping always sound better? Not always. And if you don't need the extra power, you're unlikely do notice a difference.

    Does that help clear things up?

    -Doug

  3. #3

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    Hey Doug,

    Thanks for the reply.

    I scored the PSW10 for a VERY good price, and it just arrived last week. I don't know that I need all the extra power coming from the PSW110, 111 and definitely not the 12.

    The setup will be 50/50 music/TV.

    Will the 400s be that much more noticeable quality over the 300s, with the addition of the PSW10 to take care of the low end. I'm pretty sure I can set frequency ranges with the AVR-247.

    I would not be bi-amping, thank you for clarification, it would/could be bi-wiring. Would I be doubling up the wiring in the post on the receiver and running to each post independently on the speaker (removing the plate or leaving the plate)? Or, is there a method where I can use perhaps the multi-room or rear (surround) L & R to run to the other terminal on the speaker?

    Little new to this whole environment, and most of my reading has me pulling my hair out, as no one seems to have solid answers. Some say yes, other no :-)

  4. #4

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    Hi, Bobbo. Answers/responses below.
    I scored the PSW10 for a VERY good price, and it just arrived last week. I don't know that I need all the extra power coming from the PSW110, 111 and definitely not the 12.
    That's fine, and if you're happy, I'm happy. Just askin'.

    Will the 400s be that much more noticeable quality over the 300s, with the addition of the PSW10 to take care of the low end. I'm pretty sure I can set frequency ranges with the AVR-247.
    The 400s play 3Hz lower than the 300s, at 44Hz. That matters, and it's just 4Hz higher than the 110 sub. I'm not going to say that it's a night and day difference, but I'd pay more for that, yeah.

    I would not be bi-amping, thank you for clarification, it would/could be bi-wiring. Would I be doubling up the wiring in the post on the receiver and running to each post independently on the speaker (removing the plate or leaving the plate)?
    For strict bi-wiring, you'd get the wires into the binding posts, and you could remove the plates or leave them in place. Personally, I would remove them as I'd rather have the signal travel through the binding posts on the speakers than the plates. Theoretically, solid conductors handle bass fairly well, but high frequencies not as well.

    Or, is there a method where I can use perhaps the multi-room or rear (surround) L & R to run to the other terminal on the speaker?

    Little new to this whole environment, and most of my reading has me pulling my hair out, as no one seems to have solid answers. Some say yes, other no :-)[/QUOTE]

  5. #5

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    Sorry, premature posting. I hate when that happens.
    Or, is there a method where I can use perhaps the multi-room or rear (surround) L & R to run to the other terminal on the speaker?
    You can use the other amps in your receiver and H/K is one of the few brands I'd trust to have the same quality there. But in order to do that you'll have to feed a signal into that amp's main inputs. It would be an interesting experiment, though.
    NOTE: If you're going to use more than one amp per speaker, PLEASE REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE PLATES BETWEEN THE POSTS!!!!

    Little new to this whole environment, and most of my reading has me pulling my hair out, as no one seems to have solid answers. Some say yes, other no :-)
    The problem is that every has a different room, different system, different ears, and different notions of what is a significant change/improvement. The only real way to know what you think is to try it and see. The better the system, the more these little tweaks will matter, which is kind of a vicious circle, since spending more merely makes you want to spend more.

    Regardless, I hope this helps and that you come back here with any more questions.

    -Doug

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    Awesome.

    Thanks alot for your help Doug.

  7. #7

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    Hey, that's why we're here, Bobbo. Let us know if you have any more questions.

    -Doug

  8. #8

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    I ended up going with the TSi300 after doing a in-person sound comparison between them and the TSi400. No noticeable difference in the towers (no sub of any other components)

    I figured with the low-end from the sub and the RM8 Center (for TV watching), they should be perfect. I've been reading about the bi-wiring and it's 50/50 opinion with the masses, so I'll give it a whirl if I have extra 16ga cable left.

    Thanks again!

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