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  1. #1

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    Default Dodge Ram Mega Cab Audio Question

    I have an 06 Mega Cab that I am thinking about running this setup on. Please give me some opinions and tell me what you think. I am going to install a JVC headunit and polk 6x9s in the front doors. Here is the part I am wondering about. I was wanting to put 6.5 components in the rear doors, with the tweeters moved to the dash to bring the sound stage forward and up. Tell me what you guys think of this. Will it work? Good idea? Not sure so I wanted to get opinions before I try it.

  2. #2

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    You're better off going with a set of good components up front. It's easy to make an adapter to fit the 6's in those front 6x9 holes and youd put your tweets in the dash or A pillars. Don't need rear spakers. They only hurt sound quality.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    You're better off going with a set of good components up front. It's easy to make an adapter to fit the 6's in those front 6x9 holes and youd put your tweets in the dash or A pillars. Don't need rear spakers. They only hurt sound quality.
    +1. You don't really need the speakers in the back since this is only a pickup.

    What amplifier were you planning on using?
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    ok so i'm just gonna go with fronts then...it will be mm6501s...so what amp would you guys recommend?

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    Quote Originally Posted by megadiesel View Post
    ok so i'm just gonna go with fronts then...it will be mm6501s...so what amp would you guys recommend?
    The 250.2 would work. IMO, anything 125+ watfs RMS per channel from any company who makes quality amplifiers should suffice. Typically, I like to shoot for having an amplifier that's capable of putting out 1.5-2x the RMS rating of the speaker. That way you have plenty of clean headroom.
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    I'd consider a 4 channel amp before going with a 2 channel amp. It opens up a lot more possibilities. They are more expensive in most cases, but if the price is negligible, definitely go the 4 channel route. The only time I really consider 2 channels a good buy is in cases like Mac where he is running a 3-way and only needs the extra 2 channels.

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    True. But since he's only getting the MM line, I figured he'd only want a 2 ch. At least for now.
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    If you just want a plug and play system, get a 2 channel.

    If you want to tweak on your system a little, get a 4 channel. This way at the very least, youll be able to tune the output of your tweets and mids independent of each other. This will make a big difference. And if you decide later on to buy a head unit with some processing power, youll be ready to go.

    Youd run the tweeters off the front amp channels and thru the crossover and the mids youd run off the rear amp channels running full range.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacLeod View Post
    Youd run the tweeters off the front amp channels and thru the crossover and the mids youd run off the rear amp channels running full range.
    MM's aren't bi-ampable (i'm sure you know that but just to get that out of the way lol)

    So if tweets will be crossed by passive crossover and woofers will get full range woun't there be a serious overlap since woofers will produce big range of same frequencies and tweeter??

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    No. If they were next to each other you'd prefer they be cut off further apart but with them separated, you want them playing into each other a little more.

    The passive crossover doesn't cut the mids off at say 4KHz then start the tweets at 4KHz, they'll cut the mid off at say 2KHz with a shallow slope and then the tweeter off at maybe 5KHz also with a shallow slope. That way, when the tweeter is fading out to inaudible, the mids are taking over.

    Say you cut them both off at 4KHz at a steep 24 db per octave, the mid will play 5KHz at -8 db, 6.3 at -16 db and 8 at -24 db. At a respectable volume, 8KHz will be cranking out at 90-95 db so even at -24 db, the mids will still be playing at 70+ db which is pretty audible. So now youre hearing things from 2 different spots and have drivers running into each other and while that's not the end of the world, its not ideal especially if mid and tweet are next to each other. If theyre separated, it works better by helping them blend but you still don't want drivers running over each other any more than necessary if you can help it.

    So with the natural roll off of the mid and the high crossover point of the tweet, running the mid full range will work ok. Obviously it would be better to have a crossover on each, but this is a good "poor mans" solution.
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    will the 6.5s distort badly if they are running full signal instead of having a high pass around 60-70 or so?

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    Passive crossovers generally only cover the mid/tweet exchange. Running with or without those crossovers won't do anything to change the low end.

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    Right, the passives won't high pass the mids. They'll be running full range. And yes they will distort from the 63 Hz and below range if you feed them a lot of power cause they just dont have the suspension travel to handle those frequencies with a lot of output. That's where youll need a sub.
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    I'm having a hard time getting the link in, but would this be a good amp. I'm not sure if it would be too much power. It is on Crutchfield. It is the Sound Ordnance M-2250.

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    For about 50 bucks more I would go with the RF / Alpine / Kicker 4 ch amps from the same site. 4 ch's gives you the flexibility to run your components of 2 channels and bridging the other two to run a sub. This way you'd be running drivers that would cover all 10 octaves.

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