Free Shipping on All Orders 1-866-764-1801

Vist our Online Store
+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4
Results 91 to 110 of 110
  1. #91

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Athens, GA
    Posts
    496

  2. #92

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Athens, GA
    Posts
    496

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gp4jesus View Post
    ...to dynamat

  3. #93

    Member Sales Rating: (13)

    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    The Mars Hotel
    Posts
    31,247

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PrazVT View Post
    It looks like Trey will be using Clarity Cap PX with ESA bypass caps and Mills resistors. He's also upgrading the binding posts.
    There's no need for bypass caps when replacing the others with poly caps.

    If you take your driver and tap or knock on the side of the magnet shield it will ring.
    Interesting. When I pinged my A7 driver baskets and shields I heard no ringing.
    'Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

  4. #94

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    There's no need for bypass caps when replacing the others with poly caps.
    I think you mentioned that earlier in the thread - honestly, I don't know enough to speak intelligently about it.

    Trey - any thoughts on this?
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs

  5. #95

    Member Sales Rating: (27)

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    20,970

    Default

    The ESA series is far nicer than the PX line up - we have to use the PX line up because of size...

    I understand the argument but there are many folks who disagree and agree with the above statement...

    GR Research (Danny Ritchie) uses bypass caps on all of his capacitors in his crossover....

    The negative (as far as some say) is it introduces artifacts because they are unequal values.

    I have done this with LSi9 crossovers and RTia7 crossovers with no issues what-so-ever...

    I think we will be fine. There is not much room to work on these crossovers so you cant use realllllllly good parts and keep them internal, thats why I like to use the bypass caps that are NICE to keep the quality level up.

    For instance on a LSi9 crossover I am doing right now we are using the MR line as a bypass
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro

  6. #96

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    Thanks for the explanation Trey. After doing a little reading, I think I understand this a little bit better. The argument against the bypass cap seems to be (and correct me if I'm interpreting this wrong) that whatever % of the main cap is bypassed is too small to make a difference since the most of the performance is determined by the main cap. It sounds like the argument for could be that if it's too cost /space prohibitive to use the poly you want, a higher quality bypass cap could bridge the gap. Trey seems to have come to a similar conclusion.

    That being said, I'll let Trey do his thing. Interesting reading though.
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs

  7. #97

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gp4jesus View Post
    Are you talking about the Armacell tape? I thought they use it for making gaskets to seal the driver and the cabnet, not for dampining vibrations on the basket.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II

  8. #98

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    Might as well get some dynomat coming and cover the baskets and the metal magnet shields of the drivers. That is what I did to kill time while they were down. My wife though I was going crazzy being with out them.
    Do you have any pics of how you did it or the 'after' ?
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs

  9. #99

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    I just bought a Dynomat Extreme Wedge pack. It comes with a small roll of 18"x32" long.

    I cut a strip slightly wider than the width of the magnet shield. Wrap it around the magnet shield so it is even with the top of the shield (middle of the driver). Then work around the Then trace the bottom of the magnet shield and cut a circle out. I did mine slightly larger so the circle would slightly overlap the strip I wraped around the magnet shield. You can make the strips slight wider or the circle slightly larger. That way you have the material over lap a little.

    Then I had a strip cut that was slightly narrower than the fingers of the basket. Cut up in to short pieces and apply to the fingers. Just don't put it on to high up where it will inter fear with the seal between the driver and the wood cabinet.

    If you look at the magnet shields on the drivers You can see where they meet the driver basket there is a seam / gap. I covered those up with small scrap strips that were left over.

    Here is a link to the stuff I bought. I just figured for $25-$30 bucks shipped it couldn't hurt.
    http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=dyn....c0.m270.l1313
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II

  10. #100

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    I took the mid driver out to get some pics for you.




    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II

  11. #101

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    You cant use the scrap stuff to seal / dynomat the top of the magnet shield because it is goes up and then has a recess where the shield meets the basket.

    On the woofers the magnet shield is flush where it meets the basket. I also cut out a hole in the dynamat. I didn't know if the hole was there for ventilation so I didn't want to cover it up.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II

  12. #102

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    1,622

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbooker82 View Post
    You cant use the scrap stuff to seal / dynomat the top of the magnet shield because it is goes up and then has a recess where the shield meets the basket.
    This is ment for the mid range speaker.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II

  13. #103

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    I took the mid driver out to get some pics for you.
    Thanks for the pics and instructions jbooker82! The photos help alot! I'll order some dynamat today and will give it a shot this week.
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs

  14. #104

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    While I'm at it...should I take the drivers out of my LSi9s and do those too?
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs

  15. #105

    Member Sales Rating: (27)

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    20,970

    Default

    I have some LSi9 drivers here and I dont think you will find any improvement
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro

  16. #106

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    1,583

    Default

    cool - I'll leave 'em alone.
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs

  17. #107

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Athens, GA
    Posts
    496

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jbooker82 View Post
    ...Armacell tape... ...making gaskets to seal the driver and the cabnet... ...dampining vibrations on the basket[& cabnet]
    I missread that thread. Sidenote to this topic: the CSi A6 top & bottom panels NEED dampening. While doing some wiring upgrades on mine I noticed they rang when tapped.

    And,... ...Sorry for "beating a dead horse;" I urge all those that know the business end of a soldering iron replace/upgrade the wire between the XO and BPs on all your Polk speakers. If it were just 18 ga wire... ...instead that wire will break after a few bends demonstrating its grossly inferior quality.

    cheers

  18. #108

    Member Sales Rating: (27)

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    20,970

    Default

    This is exciting!

    I finally get to build a Fortress Plus!

    10" Rods, ESA tweeter network, SA midbass - will be 10" tall!!

    AND! It is going to Australia!! My first "international" modification, not my first out of the country though, you Canadians ROCK! :)
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro

  19. #109

    Member Sales Rating: (0)

    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Hi. About two years ago, I purchased my RTi-A7s without knowing what I really wanted. They looked nice, fairly affordable, and got good reviews. After two years of system improvements and tweaking, I'm fairly satisfied with their performance. My system is used 50/50 3.2HT/2.2music - but I really want the best musical quality possible. At times, the A7s seem kinda harsh, so I'm interested in VR3's crossover modifications. Therefore, I'm wondering whether any measurement data exists that compares the A7's performance with the original manufacturer's crossovers vs VR3's crossovers? If yes, how could I get a copy of that information? Thank you. - mdale
    Yamaha RX-V667 Receiver, Emotiva XPA-200 Amp, Polk RTi-A7 Mains, Polk CS20 Center, SVS SB12-NSD Subwoofers, Roku WiFi, Netflix, Pandora, 2000 Honda Accord

  20. #110

    Member Sales Rating: (27)

    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    20,970

    Default

    There is no exact comparison measurements. I can tell you that there technically should not be a measureable frequency graph difference of the parts.

    The parts used in the stock crossovers, electrolytic caps, sand cast resistors tend to be a noisier component that can cause oddities in the high frequency response, causing brightness, etc
    www.Vr3Mods.com ///// www.Version3Audio.com

    "No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

     

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-08-2008, 07:07 PM
  2. Polk Audio Rta-8t - Reference Thread
    By dorokusai in forum Speakers
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-12-2007, 07:43 PM
  3. WTB: Polk Audio R20 speakers thread
    By Skynut in forum Speakers
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-18-2006, 11:24 AM
  4. Polk Audio SDA CRS - Reference Thread
    By dorokusai in forum Speakers
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-06-2005, 09:03 PM
  5. Polk Audio SDA SRS 2 - Reference Thread
    By dorokusai in forum Speakers
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-13-2005, 11:06 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts