I completed a DIY subwoofer project recently and wanted to share my pictures. Anytime I do a project, I always rely on these threads from others to get me through it, so hopefully this will be of use to someone else.
My goal with this project was to build 2 "smallish" musical subwoofers to go in my dedicated 2 channel room. I went with a sealed design for its tighter bass and better musical performance, and because it allowed the footprint to stay relatively small. The design was loosely based on one of John Krutke's subs, but I used different drivers, different amp, and different dimensions/internal volume. I also wanted to finish them with the high gloss, piano black look. Figuring out how to do that took a lot of time spend reading on the forums since there are so many ways of doing it. In the end, due to constraints of where I had to spray the paint and the equipment I had available to me, I went with Crystalac paint. More details on that part will come later.
I went with Dayton RSS265HF-4 10" drivers and Dayton SA240-B 240W amps. Parts express has the drivers on sale for $125 and the amps on sale for $99, so I thought that was a pretty good deal. I built the cabinets out of ?? MDF with the front baffles being 1 ?? MDF. They are right around 16? cubed, with a net internal volume of 1 cubic foot. I used one of the software programs (I can?t remember the name right now) to help determine what the optimal internal volume for those drivers would be. Enjoy, and let me know if you have any questions.
The cut MDF pieces ready to begin assembly. These were cut on my table saw.
Gluing together the front baffle pieces.
Sides glued to the base.
Amp brace in rear installed.
Internal bracing installed.
Checking the fit of the amp on the back panel. The opening was cut with my plunge router.
Gluing on the top.
Installing the nuts on the back side of the baffle for the driver screws.
Sealing the MDF on the inside with Bulls Eye sanding sealer.
Gluing on the front baffle and back panel. I glued the back with the amp in place to ensure proper alignment with the amp brace inside.
All edges were rounded over with a 1/2? router bit.
Now on to the finishing process.