I think it depends on the particular amp and how well designed they are. For example, the original Alpine PDX series amps had a high noise floor that was noticeable by many. Other than that they were decent amps, but that was a real drawback. Unfortunately, Alpine never updated the 5-channel PDX amp with their refresh, so that one still has the same noise issue. This is sad, and took it out of my consideration when I was looking for a 5 channel amp.I disagree that a higher powered amp will make more noise at low volumes. Even if its true, its still well beyond the audible level. Ive heard several systems running 350+ watts PER DRIVER and theyre as quiet as the wind driven snow.
To clarify my thoughts, moving from a high quality lower wattage amp to a high quality higher wattage amp should absolutely be better in terms of sound quality, especially at higher volumes. However, going from a high quality low wattage amp to a mid quality high wattage amp might not be better. And when I say mid quality, I'm still referring to a decent quality name brand, and not some crap flea market amp. All I'm saying is throwing more watts at a system isn't always going to be better. It certainly can be, but there are exceptions.
To some extent, it will depend on where your crossover is set between your mids and sub. The lower it is set, the more power the mids will need for Les's awesome bass guitar.Primus wont need quite as much to get loud, at least not in the mids and highs. The higher treble of the guitars and such dont require big power.
Agreed! I didn't start listening to them until recently. They are very different, and take some getting used to; and, it's probably not for everybody. However, it really is genius, and can be downright amazing to listen to.Less Claypool's genius comes thru no matter what the volume.
Agreed.Im with you on this. I think there is a point of overkill where there is no return on investment. Generally 100-150 watts per driver on the mids and highs (Im talking car not home audio) is the most you need. Like Ive said, Ive heard some massively powered systems and the extra power doesnt separate them from the ones running 150 watts.
I pretty much agree with your car analogy. My CR-V only has 180hp, but it does what I need it to. And, Honda's V-TEC really is amazing when it kicks in. However, I think the 400 extra HP would be more useful than the extra unused wattage; it would also be a helluva lot more fun! I'd love to get a Porsche Cayenne Turbo S. 450 HP under the hood of an SUV would be awesome. However, I would probably get myself in trouble doing stupid things with it, and I'd be spending a lot more on gas, so I'm probably better off without it.Im with ya here too. Im not saying you have to have a 5,000 watt amp, just like you dont have to have a car that makes 400 horsepower. But that extra horsepower will come in handy when you want to have a little fun. Same with the extra wattage. I mean hell, Im only running 400 watts to my sub and 90 to each driver and thats for SQ competition on a national level! Like I said way earlier, there is a point of common sense and me saying more power is good doesnt equate to me saying put 5000 watts on a tweeter.
Okay, maybe I need to look into his stuff some more when I have time.Its as transparent as it can be. You are more than welcome to inspect the entire test setup for as long as you want. He hides nothing. You have 2 amps, both of your choosing and then you have a ABX switcher. You listen to amp A, then to B then to X and you have to say which one X is. Nobody guess right more than 50% of the time which like the MP3 test, is the same result as flipping a coin. It works just like that MP3 test. Blind ABX testing is the only objective and scientific way to test if you truly can hear a difference between product A and product B.
I don't think I ever claimed that all music would make for a night and day difference when comparing MP3 to lossless (or low to high bitrate MP3). At least I never intended to. I can't speak for all people who make claims about MP3, but the ones I know hold the same beliefs I do; which is that it varies with different types of music. Some types of music show very noticeable MP3 artifacts (even at 320kbps), some show mild artifacts, and some may show no audible difference. As I mentioned regarding your test site, one clip I was able to ID 100% of the time, one 80% and one not at all. That just serves to emphasize my point that MP3 reacts differently depending on the source material.This is always the way it goes, you guys claim to hear the difference between amps, bit rates, cables, extension cords and everything else like night and day, but can never show that you can in an objective test. Then when you dont, all of a sudden the differences are extremely subtle and it takes time to pick them out. If there is a difference and its noticeable, you should be able to pick it out 10 out of 10 times. I guarantee I could tell the difference between an amp running 6db of bass boost and one the wasnt and Id get it right every time.
As for cables, it seems to be a hot subject around here. I've never been able to hear a bit of difference between any properly designed cables. Or, in the case of speaker cables, ones that are of adequate gauge. I use a variety of decent quality interconnects and they all sound the same to me. I use low-voltage lighting cable with monoprice banana plugs on them for my speakers, and those sound the same to me as those high dollar cables that others swear by. I also use generic interconnects and speaker cable in my car system, and it does the job just fine.
All that being said, I'm not going to claim that there is absolutely no difference between them and that others are wrong in what they hear. Maybe their ears are better than mine. However, I consider that a blessing since it saves me money.
Also, note that I am only referring to analog interconnects above. Digital interconnects don't make an audible difference as long as they are put together right. Digital is digital, and it either works or it doesn't. A digital cable cannot in any way affect frequency response, noise or "sound signature."
As for ID'ing a 6dB bass boost, I have no doubt that you could do so reliably. However, I'm sure I could too, as I despise any sort of artificial bass boost in music.