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  1. #1

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    Default sigh...so now I need sub suggestions...

    Well the joy of experiencing the juicy goodness that is my new system has ground to a somewhat abrupt halt. My sub, an older 10" Rockford Fosgate power series, has crapped out on me after about 6 or so years of service. I had actually left it at a friend's house for about a year since I wasn't using it, and let's just say he did some unspeakable things to it involving a summer camp, kits, flour, and water. So it no longer works right. It sounds fine at low-medium volumes so I didn't notice it at first, but past that it definitely sounds like something's fried in there and it's driving me insane. I actually called RF tech support to see if they service subs, but all they do is a flat rate replacement for $199 which is a good deal, but I don't really feel like dropping $200 on something I hadn't planned on buying in the first place unless I have to. Plus I can get the same sub new on ebay for less and not have to send mine back. Options as I see them:

    1) Anyone got a sub they want to get rid of? Looking for something in the same league as the RF, so I guess a 10" SR would be good. Gently used is fine.


    2) For a little under $200, it looks like I can ebay an SR104. For the same price I can also do the new Rockford T1D410, which lists at $400. I know this is a Polk forum so I'm not expecting much love for the Rockford, but I feel like they're good adversaries. Specs are similar - both DVC, 700rms/1400pk for the SR, 600rms/1200pk for the Rockford.

    I'm using 2 channels from a D4000.4 bridged @ 2ohms, so 400W. Small sealed box. Also I've got MM6502s in the front.


    Ideas? Feel free to throw in some wildcards. Again, I'm chasing that elusive "get something nice for not much money."

    Also - Since these are DVC subs I want 4ohms right? That way when I wire both sides up I'm getting a 2ohm load?

  2. #2

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    So as of now I have my friend's 2x12 box in my trunk, taking up all kinds of space. Subs are Diamond Audio D1 series. Sounds pretty good, even if my 10" somehow put out more than both of these. I'm still looking for something more compact but these will suffice for now. Again if anyone has subs they're looking to sell feel free to PM me.

  3. #3

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    Polk MOMO
    I know its a 12" but it still fits in a small box, i think around .8 cuft vs the SR taking over 1. Plus it doesn't need as much power as the SR would. Which is nice since you are kinda limited on power with your amp setup. I have the same sub in my trunk in a custom fiberglass enclosure and it hits pretty hard. I do have 600 watts going to it though.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-BO...item3f13293301

  4. #4

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    Isn't the MOMO line discontinued? Would they have been replaced by the Mobile Monitor line since there doesn't seem to be a replacement for the SR line. The specs for the MOMO and MM lines look about the same.

    The SR line looks amazing, but I don't know how I feel about dropping $200 on a beefy 700w rms sub that will only be getting 400w. I checked out the MM1040 which I can get it for just over $100 and was wondering how it would stack up. There are a couple factors here:

    1) Power. Will I be happy with the output I'm getting out of this single 10"? My last sub put out plenty of low end, but it looks to be about triple the size/weight etc...barely fit into a 1 cu. ft. box. I'm currently using 2 12" subs that handle 200rms each and they put out plenty obviously. I know to some degree I can't expect a single 10" sub to compete, but...will it?

    2) Size. I love the shallow mounting depth and was contemplating getting a shallow box to save space - I always have stuff in the trunk. Will it sound like crap with one of those shallow boxes?

    3) If it won't be enough, would it make more sense to get two MMs at $100 each rather than a single SR?

    Any MM users out there care to comment?

  5. #5

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    In your case i think MM will fit you better. Just about "all around better choice" sort'a speak.
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  6. #6

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    Cool - Mo' money in my pocket. What's your opinion on those slanted back boxes? Polk box guide recommends .6 cu. ft. and I think that's what those run around. But will a square box with more depth give the sub more to work with?

  7. #7

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    Not sure how it works if enclosure is vented/ported but if you are talking about sealed enclosure then it doesn't matter as long as overall internal space is matching sub's "needs" and has at least an inch or two (or more lol) of space inbetween back of the sub and the wall of enclosure.
    2008 Nissan Altima
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  8. #8

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    sweet, the slanted back will cozy up to the back seats nice and leave me lots of room.

    Now I have a load-related question:

    I always thought that the load delivered from an amp was dictated by the speaker receiving it. MM6501s are 2ohms, so that's what they get. Simple enough.

    But if you're bridging two channels to a sub, is that still the case or does it just put out what that amp is rated at for that function?
    For instance, Polk specs state that the D4000.4 will deliever 400w x 2 bridged at 4ohms. Does that mean that when it's bridged it can only deliver a 4 ohm load?

    I'm basically trying to understand whether I need a single or dual voice coil sub. If I'm not mistaken a 4ohm DVC will look for 2ohms while a SVC wants 4. So I would need the single? It seems logical, yet weird at the same time. I feel like I'm overthinking it...

  9. #9

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    Polk specs state that the D4000.4 will deliever 400w x 2 bridged at 4ohms. Does that mean that when it's bridged it can only deliver a 4 ohm load?
    No, it means that amp can only handle 4Ohms when bridged. 2Ohms in that setup might fry/damage your amp (basically you are appling more load on it than it can safely handle)
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  10. #10

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    so I should get the MM1040 single?

  11. #11

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    I'd give another thought to the SR with 400 watts. That will be plenty for the SR. Yes, its rated for 6-700 watts but will do just fine with 400. The SR will be more linear in response than the MOMO. I run the MOMO and my next upgrade the is sub.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by arun1963 View Post
    I'd give another thought to the SR with 400 watts. That will be plenty for the SR. Yes, its rated for 6-700 watts but will do just fine with 400. The SR will be more linear in response than the MOMO. I run the MOMO and my next upgrade the is sub.
    Yes but I'd think this would be more of a concern. If you don't mind getting a bigger/deeper inclosure then SR it is.
    Also I believ we were talking about MM, not MOMO (if that even matters lol, I have no idea how both of them compare to each other)

    2) Size. I love the shallow mounting depth and was contemplating getting a shallow box to save space - I always have stuff in the trunk. Will it sound like crap with one of those shallow boxes?
    2008 Nissan Altima
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  13. #13

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    Gentlemen, if I may...

    Yes, size is a factor. However, it still comes second to sound. To me, the biggest difference in size is going to be when I replace the monster 2x12 box I have in there right now with a single 10" box. Shallow mount would be the icing on the cake, but I'd still be happy with the standard cube.

    The thing that I was wondering was whether it was worth the price for the SR over the MM when I'm not really running big numbers, and conversely, whether a single MM can compete with it. I know technologically there is a huge difference between the two, but with both getting the same 400w is there going to be a major audible difference?

  14. #14

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    Get SR then.

    Just the fact that you can always upgrade your amp in the future be it another car or a different set-up alone is enought to get it given that price difference and a little less space in the trunk doesn't bother you.
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  15. #15

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    Went for it!

    Picked up an SR104 (SVC) brand new for a cool $159. Coming in at less than $50 over the MM1040 I had to do it. I have an old raggety box that I'll drop it in for now. I see polk says .85 cu. ft. that sound about right?

  16. #16

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    Yes. Also add another .14 cu.ft. or so (space sub itself will take up) so your enclosure's internal space should be somewhere in 1 cu.ft area, maybe a tiny bit less.
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  17. #17

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    oooh ok. definitely wouldn't have known to do that. So pretty much just the standard box

  18. #18

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    I thought I read something on here, where Polk actually made a mistake with their specs and the SR needed more cuft? Like they said the 12" needs .8 but actually needed around 1.25? I might be totally wrong though. haha

  19. #19

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    Yes, you are right but ocharlas is talking about 10'' SR sub which needs a smaller box then 12'' SR sub.
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  20. #20

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    vital where would you buy a sr12 nowadays?

  21. #21

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    box time - I'm looking at these two so far, both 1cu. ft. Would an angled box work for this sub? rear or top firing? I have a hatchback so it's going to be behind the seats

    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-1.0-Gray.html

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    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AY-CARPET.html

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  22. #22

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    I'd opt for something of better quality or better yet, do it yourself!

    Btw, kudos to you for getting the SR! I too had an SR104 hooked up to a JL 1000/1 Slash amp and it sounded amazingly clean in a sealed enclosure.

    One last thing, I highly recommend using tee nuts when installing your sub in whatever enclosure you go with.
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  23. #23

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    got any recommendations as far as better boxes then? For the most part they look the same to me...I haven't bought a box in years, and I think then I just went to best buy and got one off the shelf

    Wouldn't mind assembling one from a kit if the pieces were already cut to size, but I don't really have the tools available right now. Table saw just busted on me.

  24. #24

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    Even though your table saw just broke. You still have the option to build one your self. If you are just doing all straight cuts, and well basically building a square box. Then all you need is to come up with the measurements make sure that the internal vol is to the spec you need or want. Then go to Home depot, and pick up the 4ft x 8ft sheet of 3/4 MDF, get one the workers there tell them you need it cut. Give them your measurements, and they will cut it up for you right there for FREE... That is what I have done in the past, and works out great everytime. The jig they use is huge, and cuts square clean cuts everytime. Hope this helps.



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  25. #25

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    Maybe HomeDepot's in TX and NY are different but in NYC they only cut your wood "approximatly"lol somewhere within an inch range of what you asked for.
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  26. #26

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    btw ocharlas - SR subs are "deep" so whatever box you go with make sure it has enought deapth for house your subs AND still have a few inches between back of the sub and the wall.
    2008 Nissan Altima
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  27. #27

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    Thanks for the advice on the depth. Polk says the sub is 7", so I should look for at least 9?

    I like the idea of building a box, but I don't really get what the difference will be as far as construction and quality. If I'm buying a sheet of 3/4 MDF, stapling/gluing/sealing the pieces together, then adding carpet and terminals...Haven't I just used the same parts and done the same exact thing as all the companies out there making sub boxes? And with decent terminals running around $20, am I even saving any money?

    Every now and then I do see really nice, professional looking boxes, and they're rightfully expensive. But it seems like 99% of the companies out there are selling the exact same thing.
    Last edited by ocharlas; 02-18-2012 at 01:20 AM.

  28. #28

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    Just as with power wires some manufacturers either don't use true material to specs listed or use a second-grade material so 3/4'' mdf box is made out of COULD be a lot worse quality then 3/4'' mdf in Home Depot. Same goes for glue/silicon, carpet, screws, terminals....

    Not saying it is certainly the case but don't disregard it, it could be the reason for $20 price tag.

    And yes, 9'' should work if sub if 7'' deep.
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