How Much Dynamat do I need?

[nacam]

Sorry if this has been covered already but I have Larry's rings en route and wanted to Dynamat my drivers as well as JB Weld (well, I was going to use PL Premium adhesive since I have a full, unopened tube at home) my drivers for the following:

SDA SRS 1.2TL's
Monitor 5A's
Monitor 4A's

Questions - How much Dynamat will I need (door kit, entire car)? Do I need to buy any special tool to cut the Dynamat?

Thanks in advance!
Nacam

[Joe08867]

A door kit should cover it if you don't go crazy. A sharp new razor and something to cut on is all you need.

I would make sure you let the JB Weld or whatever you use dry before adding the Dynamat.

[F1nut]

Door kit is more than enough.

Razor knife.

[nspindel]

I'd do armacell seals while you're at it, too.

[Mr. Bubbles]

I just epoxied and dynamated my SRS's, 2A's, 1C's, RTA12B's, and Monitor 5 jrs's. 1 tube of industrial epoxy was more than enough for all of the drivers as well as a few spares and a door kit was plenty with some left over.

[nacam]

Will look into the Armacell seals as well while I am at it.

I also need to re-glue (hot melt) one of the braces on one of my 1.2's. Thought it was the bottom stereo driver bottoming out but turned out to be a loose brace inside vibrating against the cabinet just above the x-over plate. Might as well check the rest while I have them open!

Looking forward to the sound improvements after this! Cross-overs are next but not going to jump into that this winter.

Thanks a bunch guys!

[Mr. Bubbles]

I also need to re-glue (hot melt) one of the braces on one of my 1.2's. Thought it was the bottom stereo driver bottoming out but turned out to be a loose brace inside vibrating against the cabinet just above the x-over plate. Might as well check the rest while I have them open!

I also found loose braces inside my SRS's. I found braces that had NEVER had glue of any sort as well as panel joints that appeared to be missing glue and glue that had simply come loose. Check your cabinets GOOD. even if you see glue, it doesn't mean it is holding properly. In my history in cabinet design and building I have never seen hot glue hold up well ( albeit my experience is in cars with much more extreme environments). I removed as much of the old loose glue as possible and re-glued with carpenters cement in most areas. i did this in 2 steps; 1st with thinned glue so it could penetrate the joints better and then with non-thinned glue so as to end up with a sufficient thickness of adhesive in the joint to seal it. i am not sure what others here would recommend but i know from experience that this process creates a stronger joint than the board it self. I used hot glue only in the locations where i could not remove enough of the old to allow proper penetration of the carpenters cement. One could always top the cement with hot glue as a sealer or caulk but I didn't find it necessary. Good luck and enjoy. I personally enjoy the work almost as much as listening to the finished, better sounding product.

[adcomcyclone]

I found that an Exacto knife works even better than a regular utility knife. Not that I would go out and buy one just for this, but if you happen to have one (heavy duty version with heavier blades), they work like a wonder if you want to put the dynamat on and trim it so drivers are covered completely around the curves of the openings in the basket.

Yes, it is overkill, but it looked good while the drivers were out

[DON73]

I ordered the 2 door kit and there's enough for my 10s and for my grandkids to finish up all the Polks I won't get around to.