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Thread: Jeep

  1. #1

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    Default Jeep

    I have a friend wanting to install a system in his jeep
    I believe its a 98 wrangler TJ
    does anyone know of any type of boxes for 6 1/2s or a 12" sub that would conform to the jeep?
    also, what is a good 12" sub that runs about 750watts rms in a sealed box?
    going for SQL here
    what about that alpine type....r? i think...or maybe s?
    dont want to break the wallet here
    if anyone has any suggestions...especially about speaker boxes...please post...im not too crazy about sound bars
    -Cody

  2. #2

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    cody just build him a box dude.

    build it so that it has little risers in back to put two 6 1/2's into or 6x9's or whatever the heck he wants for rear speakers.

    my sub boxes have risers in them for the rear 6x9's so that the speakers kinda sit at a 45 degree angle on the rear of the back portion of hte box.

    worked out well.

    and "cheap" for a 700 - 800w sub isn't gonna happen but closest thing is like you said the type R -- that'll do 700-ish or more rms for the 12" without a problem.

    the older the type R the better... the first generation ones were single voice coil with nicer sounding cones -- they chnaged the material as of late to a more aluminum-y type thing which is still fine but i still am partial to the older ones.

    125-ish each ebay me thinx.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
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    lol.. just though of sumthin -- if you send me dimensions i'll build him a downfiring box with the two speaker "pods" on top or back or front or whatever u want...

    mdf or birch ply (pref the ply - specially in a jeep where he may be pullin the roof off and gettin a smidge of water in there)... carpeted or painted or rhinoliner or whatever he wants...

    and i'll do it for cheap - long as u'd wait about a week till i started cuz i have a couple tests on monday.

    1-800-dial-a-ho :)


    ps - if u go that route -- i'll sell him my DX 6x9's for the back as well if he wants --- i'm getting new components at some point, and i'll use the midbass from my current fronts for my rear fill.

    Last edited by PoweredByDodge; 09-24-2003 at 07:39 PM.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
    - Anurag

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    well, im not too sure i like the idea of 6x9s with a sub...id rather have the 6.5"s, but i know those dx's are nice
    the only real problem is that under his back seat...he has a drawer type thing under his back seat that opens up facing the rear
    so somehow the sub would have to clear that
    and he said it goes almost from side to side of the jeep
    what do you mean by risers?
    he mentioned getting like a hinge and put the sub box on the hinge, and a pin on the front to hold it down, and when he wanted to pull out the drawer he could just pull the pin out and swing the box over
    would that work?
    -Cody

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    Why not just get a dual sub box and bolt it to the tailgate? It swings open and it would clear the drawer because he would have to open the tailgate to get to the drawer anyway.

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    lol....DUH...thanks jstas...i told him and we were both feeling pretty dumb...
    but he only wants one...due to space...and not too sure how the tailgate will hold up with all the weight...i think hes going to get a full size spare...full size being 33x12.50s
    thanks guys...and vince...he might take you up on that offer...but not too sure about when...
    he likes the bedliner idea b/c hes going to get the back bedlined...and itll probably hold up better if it gets wet rather than carpet...and downfiring is a good idea too b/c its less likely itll get dirty...just wondering how it would work if it was mounted to the tailgate...we could always just have it mounted 3-4" off the ground...but i know jeep tailgates arent too big...
    -Cody

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    close the gate - and then measure it up -- give yourself 4" from the bottom of the box to the floor... that'll be enough for the type R -- with the sub mounted it'l be more like 3 1/2 inches between the surround and the floor, maybe a smidge less.

    anyway -- you just bolt that to the gate then, with the sub shootin down - then, you cut two more holes for the 6.5" coaxials -- only they're forward firing... u make a rectangle box -- bottom is sub, and front firing are two 6.5's" --- you just partition the inside so that you've got like 1.25 cubes for the type R 12 and 0.15 or so cubes for the 6 1/2's each on opposite sides.

    make it out of birch ply -- its lighter, stronger, and will take the bed liner material better. you can also feel confident using carriage bolts (like 6) to secure it to the gate. a layer of dynamat and some foam weatherstripping between box and gate would keep rattle monkeys away.
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
    - Anurag

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    Dude, the gate will handle it. Just mount it on the side closest to the hinge. A single sub box, sealed would be best because of space requirements, will weigh less than 100 pounds. It won't be that bad and stealing it will be difficult too. I wouldn't worry too much. I knew a guy who had a huge ass box bolted to his tailgate on his Jeep. It was 2 12" subs with 5.25 inch mid-range and compression horn tweeters. The box had a composite enclosure to seperate the speakers from each other. He weight it at something like 178 pounds. Pretty damn heavy and his tailgate held it. It sagged a bit when it was open all the way but otherwise, it was fine. I think a single sub box will do little harm.

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    whenever u need encouragement - watch rocky -->

    "c'mon rock, you can do it -- greasy chicken chasin italian speed... rooooooccckkkk..." - Mick
    "With your own attitude it is hard to survive here... But who gives a damn, we are here to change the world, and we dont need a password for that."
    - Anurag

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